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Comments
thanks.
I had the wiper transmission replaced yesterday at a Ford dealership. I was quite surprised about the price.... 360$ labour cost (4 hours) and 257$ for the parts. Grand total for replacing the wiper transmission is 709$ including taxes. For me this looks not ok, it can't be that the wiper transmission is worse 5% of a new Ford Taurus. Any idea how this cost in the average?
Thanks for any feedback
This car has had a problem with a shake or shimmy since the day I got it over 6 years ago. Previous dealer tried everything: replaced right front half axle, alignment (which then they said they couldn't complete because they needed to grind down the strut towers-at only 29,000 miles?!) It's fixed for a while and then it comes back.
I like the car, but is it reaching the point where it's going to be one thing after another? :confuse:
Are talking about a bad master cylinder ( or is there something called an ABS pump on the Taurus)?
Could it be the brake booster?
Can the ABS master cylinder be replaced by a home mechanic?
Is this really the case, or am I getting the runaround?
Thanks for any help!
Probably not
is there something called an ABS pump on the Taurus
Yes, but it has nothing to do with your symptoms.
Could it be the brake booster?
No
Can the ABS master cylinder be replaced by a home mechanic?
Depends on how good he is
The root cause might be a rear flex hose collapsed internally, preventing fluid flow. Common on that era Taurus/Sable. For the ABS light, an ABS capable scan tool is required to retrieve the stored diagnostic trouble codes.
I have a 2001 SES w/Vulcan V6. It has 73,000 miles and I think it is pinging. When I accelerate, especially uphill, it makes a sound. Do those fuel system cleaners work well? If so, what brand should I get? I have seen Prestone, Gumout, STP, Slick 50, and Chevron. All about $5 each.
Also, do those engine cleaners work? I want to keep my car in the best running condition as long as I can.
Thanks!
- Alex
Basically the carbon buildup raises the compression ratio a bit. To see if you are actually pinging, you should put in a tank of the highest octane you can find and see if the pinging goes away.
A little pinging is okay but if the engine does it more or less all the time, that's a bad thing.
You should have this checked right away if the wheel wiggle is severe.
Rob
Don't know if that's your mom's car's problem or not. :confuse:
Thanks
Thanks
Larger auto supply houses usually have the piston retractor tool set available for loan, looks like this:
http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=82&rn=926&action=show_detail
This also works on most but not as convenient to use:
http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=82&rn=503&action=show_detail
Otherwise, it could be a bad valve that lets warm coolant into the heater core, or a plugged heater core, or an electrical problem in the dash control.
If coolant has never been changed, I would go in and get a coolant flush and fill and also tell them your symptoms of no heat.
I am surprised you notice it at all in the summertime, or did you live with this when it was cold out as well?
-------------> Original message :
I was wondering if you've found anything out, I've been having similar problems with my 1996 , I've noticed that it is linked to the car running hot, while the car is cool it runs great once it's hot...The speedomoter stops working and the engine doesn't want to respond to the accelerator. It feels like it gets stuck in gear sometimes and the power steering cuts in and out. But Like I Said only when it gets hot, when It starts acting up I turn the heat on high and it stops after a few minutes. No problems with the lights yet.. Feel free to respod to my email directly or post here, my email is jryskigmail.com thanks
Can someone please tell me how to remove the dome light cover on my 2004 taurus sedan. Seems it should just pry off but mine does not want to budge.
Also, if anyone knows how (step by step?) to remove the headliner in order to drill a hole in the roof for an antenna mount I would appreciate hearing from you.
Thanks
I have a 1994 Mercury Sable Wagon. Just given to me by my 77 year old Mother in Law. My Mercury Villager died at Christmas. Sable has 42,000 miles and in mint condition. While driving to soccer practice last night a huge cloud of white smole came from rear. The engine temp light came on and began beeping. It had beeped once before 2 weeks prior and I found it had no anti freeze. It has been running very rough since I got the car in jan '05. Using loads of gas. I thought it was just not a car that got good milage. I am gettin 11 or 12 miles to gallon. Lots of "putsy" feeling when I am driving. I had all the filters and oil changed. Did fuel injector cleaner. It also sort of feels like the brake s wont let go after and stop and try to go. It kind of "jumps"., then goes and sometimes when I'm stopped it feels like someone just rear ended me......that was scary the first time or 2.
Anyway do I replace the head gasket? The Heads, the block? How much is resonable to spend. I have not got the $$ to spare but need a car!
Vehicle: Ford Taurus SE 2000.
Noticed this year that when temperature outside was 95 degrees having the A/C on while idling caused the engine temperature indicator to go all the way to "H" within 2-3 minutes. Before the indicator starts moving up, the RPM goes to low (maybe 100-200) and then surges to 1000, then settles back to 600-700. This is repeated every 10 seconds or so. There is a deep vibration sound accompanying this RPM fluctuation. After this happens for 3-4 times the temperature indicator starts moving up.The gauge comes back to normal once I switch off the A/C or if I start driving at >40mph for about 5 minutes. I can drive at 70mph with full A/C blast for 3 hours without increasing the temperature beyond the middle point. But it takes less than 5 minutes to get the heat indicator to max out. I had the coolant levels checked and the level is full. This is the first time I encountered this problem.
Any suggestions will be much appreciated.
thanks
I'm not sure the car is worth fixing but probably it is, given the low miles. You're probably looking at $700-$1,200 depending on where you live and labor rates, etc. Once they pop the heads they can tell you if there is more severe engine damage. If the entire engine is no good then you may have to go find a good used engine.
Sometimes i work nights and i need to defrost, live west coast ( Oregon ) like i said car had 47k on it..... Is there a relay for heat? or are we talking a water problem? ...... This car is treated with kid gloves........ is this one of fords better ideas lol-lol, like i said the A.C. works great lol please keep responding until i fix this problem.... Jeff thanks .........
Well as far as the speedometer goes that was caused by a
malfunctioning VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) it still misfires sometimes
and when its misfiring, it doesn't want to chage gears however I don't
know what its caused by, I've changed the VSS, the Ignition coil, the
thermostat (hoping it would run cooler) the serpentine belt (thinking
somehow that could slip and cause the water pump to work improperly,
spark plugs and wires, I'm not sure what to do next, the only other
thing I can think of is the computer (brain). So anyways it's running
better after the VSS but after driving for a few hours it gets hot and
starts running kinda screwy. It seems like if I shut the car off while
its misfiring and start it again it runs better. Hope some of this
helps email me back and let me know. The VSS will fix the speedometer
problem.
Check with your dealer. Good luck!