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Comments
It could also be having some problem in the dash controls, I suppose.
The overheating occured after i had already noticed engine trouble and really low gas milage. Got filters checked, oil change, added anti-freeze etc........all anti-freeze was gone. 1 week after adding it was gone again.
Car is parked in drive way, lots of anti-freeze on ground below tail pipe, does this mean anything. Possibly indicate more than head gasket problem (such as cracked/warped head?)
I am a a loss, don't want to(can't) spend $$$ having car towed to garage for repairs if it is senseless to do so.
thanks,
jeff
The part # they gave me was #T95T12200A or 303-529.
Thanks,
Randy
thanx rufus7
Thanks rufus7
it's a 98 sable ls w/duratec dohc v6
thanks
You could pull the battery out and take to an automotive parts store. Most will be able to test it free and sell you a new one.
I may be wrong, but the starter solenoid I believe is integral or mounted on the starter itself. The starter is low on the engine block near the oil filter, on both the Vulcan and Duratech V-6's. You could try a tap on the starter body itself.
Thanks for the suggestions.
The car seems to run Hot even with the Air off and they checked it and can not figure it out.
Maybe a thermostat ?
Any Clues?
Thermostat is definitely a prime suspect. Although they don't fail often in these cars.
Lastly, if the fan is working, and the themostat is changed, and doesn't help, (they're cheap, you know), your radiator probably needs to be rodded out. It could easily be partially plugged. One clue on that is, the car will overheat at higher speed than lower, or idle.
it's a 1996 ford Taurus
I didn't know where to put this question? I think I posted in the right place now.
Basically, the problems that I am experiencing with the car include, a strange rattling noise when it is running, I notice mainly at idle, but it may be doing it while moving as well. The power steering squeals when I have to make a sharp turn even though the fluid level is fine. The check engine light has been on for over a year. It went off for a short time about six months ago, but came on again. In addition, the spark plugs probably need to be changed (they are the original ones), but hubby has put it off because he does not exactly know how to get to them without almost taking the engine apart.
I am hoping to learn something here that I can use as ammunition in order to get my husband to get the car fixed before I am left stranded on the side of the road somewhere. Any and all information will be appreciated. Thanks!
Not sure of the exact config for power to the starter. Some have extra wires at the battery for auxiliary feeds and as such you might be getting the power to actuate the solenoid, but maybe the lead feeding power to the starter is bad. Might even be loose at the solenoid.
Were there any problem indications prior to the sudden no turn-over? Odd noises, intermittant turn-over? Has the coolant suddenly dropped? Which engine? 3.8 had a lot of head gasket problems and you might have a cylinder full of coolant. Noise prior to this problem during start might have indicated an extremely worn ring gear and starter drive. (not a common problem).
The name that comes to mind concerning the issue for factory parts is Magnussen? Something like that. Until they include a factory burn default for this chip which the owner can reset, there will be dealerships taking advantage of customers with their ability to program it to something it shouldn't be. That is until the warranty goes out. And giving every shop the ability to do it won't stop the unscrupulous from doing it. Give me the pre OBD II back, where it was good or bad and no in-between.
With very few exceptions, because of a specially designed brake rotor, brakes are negatively impacted and sometimes severely by the use of impact wrenchs when remounting wheels. Metal is compressible and doing so with improper torque puts uneven pressure or even pressure different than the original design to the rotor and with time, a few heatings and coolings, that pressure has spread through the rotor and warped it. So you pay for a brake job because of their bad work. (per dealer, runout for a rotor is in the neighborhood of .0003")
Another example relating the importance of torque and metal stresses. For many years it was deemed impossible to get past the heavy use of oil in a new or rebuild and they used a breakin oil. They seemed to have reached a barrier that no matter how perfectly they bored the cylinder wall there would be a small gap to the ring. They finally learned it came about when the head was bolted up to the block. And eventually employed the solution of bolting up a dummy head prior to doing the machining of the cylinder wall. Today we have much tighter engines thanks to that technology. Why aren't rotors treated with the same importance?
Hand torqueing will remain a priority until some old technology is employed in the manufacturer of the braking system.
And the Regal! Well the daughter did this one. And after having the same crappie tires on a Taurus which were gone in 2 weeks under the love or leave 30 days. They had terrible dry road traction compared to the previous and the ones that replaced them. It was easy to lock em and slide w/o ABS. The Regal, don't remember the OE's, but last were Michelin. These damned Generals won't even do well with ABS. Never left a tire mark with pedal to the floor ABS doing all it could, except on very hot asphalt, and then it would leave a faint mark. Checked the General's on cool asphalt with the ABS doing all it could, tire squeal with broken tire marks and found myself trying to correct skid at the wheel. New mental note. Never buy a car, new or used, with Generals unless I plan to buy new tires the next day.
Summing, Khumo's excellent on Aurora. Preferred over Michelin and badyear eagle by comments at tire site. I could not disagree and less than half price.
Sable, I'd bet the Khumo would have been better than the badyear choice in part because of this model tire reputation and mainly because the other shop didn't screw my brake job.
Regal, Generals no good, as on the Taurus. I'd bet the Khumo superior here even against owners writings. Enough that I'd chance the Khumo at half the price of the Michelin. The Michelins were excellent compared to OE, but something that I've noticed on some Michelins as well as many others. As the tire gets older and more milage, especially older, it tends to harden. Tires had 85K and still about 4/32 rubber. Traction was still excellent dry although not as good as new because of hardness. Wet extremely good yet as well, with minor degradation, but caution on standing water was advisable.
Number one, hand torque wheel nuts, that is with a torque wrench!
Looking for ideas.
Where are the fuses for A/C and a fuse chart? I don't have the owners book.
Where is this A/C relay I've heard about? I have the power distribution box above the radiator, but the chart in the cover doesn't point to any of them as A/C.
Any other trouble shooting points will be appreciated, such as how to check out the other switch, likely a high pressure with 3 or 4 wires.
Around $100 usually, less if you take it out yourself and drop it off at the Radiator shop.