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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • jmbeamjmbeam Member Posts: 2
    Were you able to get this fixed yourself? The same thing just occurred to my 2001 Lexus RX300.. I swore I would never bring the vehicle back into Lexus service because they are theives. Hopefu;lly I can repair it myself.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Been away from checking at Edmunds a while. Seems to me your lack of heater must be either a plugged heater core or the valve that lets heated antifreeze into the heater core is inoperative, since your temperature gauge seems to indicate it is up to operating temperature. I have not looked at my 2000 Taurus but, if I were you I would follow the heater hoses from the back to the firewall. Unless it is buried, the valve be at the end of those heater hoses somewhere. I would try that first. You might also be able to rig up a garden hose to just flush the heater core out , but get that heater control valve out of the way first.

    It could also be having some problem in the dash controls, I suppose.
  • mark_navymark_navy Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problems with yours with my transmission. Do you already have some idea how much the parts are and what woulde it take to change it? I asked a mechanic yesterday and hes charging me $450 for the parts and labor. Hopefully you already have some answers for your problems and maybe you can give me some tips about it. thanks
  • mark_navymark_navy Member Posts: 3
  • mark_navymark_navy Member Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Taurus and the service engine soon lights is on. Ive got some answers yesterday and it was the SHIFT SOLENOID and TORQUE CONVERTER SENSOR. I talked to a mechanic and asking me $450 to fix it. I'm trying to get some ideas so ill do it myself.
  • sheilao3sheilao3 Member Posts: 5
    Should the repair cost of $700.00 to $1200.00 include labor, I just want a ball park figure before I commit to repair. I live in Central Florida area. I just learned of the Ford Head Gasket recall/sevice notice, from what I have researched it long ago expired (7 years or 100,000 miles). I am out of luck. However I did contact Ford, just in case!
    The overheating occured after i had already noticed engine trouble and really low gas milage. Got filters checked, oil change, added anti-freeze etc........all anti-freeze was gone. 1 week after adding it was gone again.
    Car is parked in drive way, lots of anti-freeze on ground below tail pipe, does this mean anything. Possibly indicate more than head gasket problem (such as cracked/warped head?)
    I am a a loss, don't want to(can't) spend $$$ having car towed to garage for repairs if it is senseless to do so.
  • hutchisonhutchison Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm new here and hoping i'm posting this in the right spot. i've got a 2000 ford taurus sedan, and the driver's seat belt buckle is broken. i found a used seat belt that i'd like to put in myself, but i'm not exactly sure what i'm getting into. are there any tricks or advice someone could send my way? much appreciated,

    thanks,
    jeff
  • ran1025ran1025 Member Posts: 1
    My 98 Sable failed inspection for emissions and when we brought it in to be fixed the shop said that they need a "cam position sensor tool" in order to fix it.They informed me that they did not have this tool available and were not successful in trying to get one. They suggested that I try to buy the tool and then they would make the repair-any suggestions? I have browsed the web and I can't seem to find one either. Help!!
    The part # they gave me was #T95T12200A or 303-529.
    Thanks,
    Randy
  • williamstoxwilliamstox Member Posts: 4
    what torque converter code did you get?
  • oneeyeoneeye Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the nut that holds the front wheel bearing on for a 2002 mercury sable.
  • tedwardstedwards Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2001 Taurus SES and after I took a long road trip (300 miles) I stopped to get gas and noticed my oil pressure light was blinking, but it does not happen during normal driving. What can i do to stop this "IDIOT LIGHT".
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    170-202 ft. lbs.
  • junk1junk1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Sable and the fan is stuck on low. Replaced the thermal limiting resistor and fan speed switch and neither solved the problem. I can turn the AC switch on and I have slight air flow thats cold but no speed even on vent or heat. Any other solutions?
  • rufus7rufus7 Member Posts: 3
    I replaced the Turn signal switch and checked the fuses. I aslo replaced the flasher for the Hazards is this the same flasher unit or is there another one for the blinkers, if so where is it?

    thanx rufus7
  • rufus7rufus7 Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever find it because I am ooking for mine.

    Thanks rufus7
  • ilenemacilenemac Member Posts: 2
    My Dad has a 1997 Olds Cutlass. Lately, when he gets in to start it, it somehow triggers the anti-theft device (it must think he is trying to hotwire it or something) and it will not allow him to start it. He has to sit there and wait fifteen minutes until the system is reset. He is 87 years old and this really worries me. He has taken it to the dealer, as well as a private repair facility. No one seems to know what to do. Can he just have the system disabled? :confuse:
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    no i read it on hear and tried my heater and it ..... well it didnt work at like 75 here outside noinetheless please tell me what you think??????
  • masonmimasonmi Member Posts: 148
    Is it normal to see vapors or smoke come out of the engine oil stick after driving at highway speeds? I have a 2005 Taurus that I had noticed this on with the 3.0 Flex Fuel Engine, would I need to change over to synthetic oil?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    That's nothing to worry about - Ford uses a synthetic blend oil at the factory, and dealerships. But any good oil will work fine. Change if you wish, and the smoke will go away, synthetic oil doesn't smoke.
  • masonmimasonmi Member Posts: 148
    Would it be best to change to a Synthetic oil like Mobil 1 ? If so what grade would you recommend?
  • kik1azzkik1azz Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: Can someione tell me if the upper plenum needs to be removed to change spark plugs (backside), on a 1998 Ford Taurus; V6.
  • rkjrrkjr Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to remove steel ball joint from aluminum steering knuckle on 2001 Taurus. The tool from the auto parts store simply doesn't fit.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    It never hurts an engine to use full synthetic oil - but I don't think it's necessary. Optional - you decide. I hear engines run longer on full synthetic, which is why Ford uses it in their oil, but as a blend.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Which engine?
  • 98sablels98sablels Member Posts: 1
    My car is leaking steering fluid, and the guy who checked it out told me it is not leaking from the lines or the rack. He said it's coming from a valve that is also a sensor that controls the amount of pressure the steering fluid applies at different speeds. He said the part runs about $300, but I need to know what that part is and what could have caused it to crack. To my knowledge, the vehicle has been driven into a flooded parking lot before.

    it's a 98 sable ls w/duratec dohc v6

    thanks
  • charliekcharliek Member Posts: 3
    Mines in the shop today. Same exact problem but when they kept adding fluid to what I added they said the valves must have been stuck and it shot all the fluid back into the pump under pressurre blowing the cap off. They tried to replace the pump and blow out the lines. That would have been $330. That didn't work. The steering rack is clogged and has to be replaced. New total for everything $880.
  • kz3gkz3g Member Posts: 1
    I have 2003 Ford Taurus. Last night, I thought something was wrong with my fuel tank( gas all over) only to find out that a pipe had become disconnected. A friend of mine screwed everything back in place and now the car is running fine, except the check engine came on. Do you think the two problems are connected and it may just be sensor? Thanks!
  • supraman2supraman2 Member Posts: 2
    Tear that thing out with a backhoe
  • supraman2supraman2 Member Posts: 2
    yep o2 sensor
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    The check engine light may reset itself, now that you have your fuel leak fixed. However, if you are still under the three year 36K mile warranty, I would take it back to the dealer and have it checked out.
  • the_fall_apartthe_fall_apart Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Sable. It was running fine and there was no signs of anything messing up or anything. I got in my car after work and tried to start it and there was nothing. My cd player,A/C, and headlights were all working fine. I turned everything off and tried again. All I would get was a click. I think it might be the solenoid because we just got the ignition fixed a couple of months ago. I was told that in older cars when this would happen that tapping on the side or top of the solenoid with a hammer while having someone start it would work temporarly. I am not evn sure where the solenoid is. Any suggestions?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Might just be a dead battery. Sometimes they fail with enough power for auxilliary parts. Other times they fail like turning off a light switch. Did you try to get a jump start?

    You could pull the battery out and take to an automotive parts store. Most will be able to test it free and sell you a new one.

    I may be wrong, but the starter solenoid I believe is integral or mounted on the starter itself. The starter is low on the engine block near the oil filter, on both the Vulcan and Duratech V-6's. You could try a tap on the starter body itself.
  • the_fall_apartthe_fall_apart Member Posts: 2
    No it's not the battery. We tried jump starting it.
    Thanks for the suggestions.
  • hootervillehooterville Member Posts: 1
    Have a 97 Taurus with 90,000 that just had a new Heater Core replaced at the dealer.

    The car seems to run Hot even with the Air off and they checked it and can not figure it out.

    Maybe a thermostat ?

    Any Clues?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    It may not be the battery, but it still may - I've had batteries short out internally that won't jump. Before you do a ton of other experimentation, I'd swap it out with another battery from somewhere, and make sure, because it sounds like a nearly dead or shorted battery to me.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Is your cooling fan working properly? In this weather, should be on all the time probably except right at start up - if the A/C is on it should be on constantly. If the car overheats while idling, this is likely your problem, it should not overheat when in motion at good speeds if this is what's wrong.

    Thermostat is definitely a prime suspect. Although they don't fail often in these cars.

    Lastly, if the fan is working, and the themostat is changed, and doesn't help, (they're cheap, you know), your radiator probably needs to be rodded out. It could easily be partially plugged. One clue on that is, the car will overheat at higher speed than lower, or idle.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    heater still does not work live in oregon and the ac works fine but when i turn the heat i get nothing but vent..... like i said 47k on the car changed the coolant but not for that reason... Ideas?????/ j :)
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    all systems are go as far as i can tell he drn heater just does not blow hot air... all i get is vent ....what sucks is that the controls are not air activated (am im right?) am used to the old manual controls.... please help me jeff
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    The controls are electric, so you may have a motor not activating a damper. NOT an easy fix if that's it. I'm not sure if there's a valve for the hot water on these cars or not, I think not. I'm betting on the damper motor.
  • ford_legendford_legend Member Posts: 1
    I am having problems with my driver side window. it doesn't roll up? it makes a clicking noise but nothing happens???? the passenger window works fine. please help..it's going to rain soon.

    it's a 1996 ford Taurus

    I didn't know where to put this question? I think I posted in the right place now.
  • laura6081laura6081 Member Posts: 3
    Hello. I have a 1999 Ford Taurus SE, 24 valve, duel overhead cam, 3.0 liter....and that's about as much as I know about the mechanics of it. It has 138,000 miles on it and it has had the oil changed every 3000 to 5000 miles. However, there are many problems that I have having with it and would like to research what they may be.

    Basically, the problems that I am experiencing with the car include, a strange rattling noise when it is running, I notice mainly at idle, but it may be doing it while moving as well. The power steering squeals when I have to make a sharp turn even though the fluid level is fine. The check engine light has been on for over a year. It went off for a short time about six months ago, but came on again. In addition, the spark plugs probably need to be changed (they are the original ones), but hubby has put it off because he does not exactly know how to get to them without almost taking the engine apart.

    I am hoping to learn something here that I can use as ammunition in order to get my husband to get the car fixed before I am left stranded on the side of the road somewhere. Any and all information will be appreciated. Thanks!
  • mdhugmdhug Member Posts: 9
    I have a 99 sable 24valve. It will heat up but not completely overheat when it is driven mostly city. and over 80 degrees Has new themostat, radiator cap, coolant water pump and has been flushed. At 95 Degrees and idle with air on the car can sit all day and never get past normal. Fans are also working. Any help very frustrated
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Sorry, I totally disagree with the reliability of the newer. Some pre 95 may have had some troubles but at least you could do work on them. I had an 86, and it snapped the low gear band at 110K. Problem was metal fatigue at a spot weld. Weld didn't break but the characteristics of the metal in that area, temper, shortened the life. And my 92 which we acquired in 94 with almost 100K had 238K when it was totalled. Not my daughters fault. Consolation was that the idiot in the new Suburban that pulled in front of her should have had hers totalled as well. Nailed her squarely on the rear wheel. Made it appear that there was little damage, but I know the axle was shot and it appeared the frame was bent enough that I'd never want that vehicle. Anyway, it is a matter of knowing what to look for before buying one of this vintage. Common problem that can lead to trouble is that Ford had a tendency for the oil pan gasket to crap. Nice silicone gasket with metal eyelets but age seemed to cause it to pop out at the front end of the motor. And as it pushed out it would curl upward acting like a funnel and one way valve when it got all the way out. Splashed water could end up in the pan. And this location was such that it would catch any drip from the water pump and lower hose connection. An oil drip might indicate this. Check the color of the coolant as the bright orange will show a residue inside the oil fill cap. The beauty of this vintage, early 90's, if you DIY, is the computer system. It will get you in the proper area most always and has a built in cylinder balance test. You just have to activate it. Better yet is that pre OBD II there was no cheating the system by reprogramming the chip. The only way to avoid them cheating you is that you get a full printout from the time it is new and at least every year after. 6 mos. would be better and that way when you're out of warranty and they wish to sell you a high priced job, you'll have something to compare the new diagnosis to. Sorry for the rant.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Sure sounds like a battery to me as well. Quick check, turn the lights on and then turn the key. If lights die, likely the battery.
    Not sure of the exact config for power to the starter. Some have extra wires at the battery for auxiliary feeds and as such you might be getting the power to actuate the solenoid, but maybe the lead feeding power to the starter is bad. Might even be loose at the solenoid.
    Were there any problem indications prior to the sudden no turn-over? Odd noises, intermittant turn-over? Has the coolant suddenly dropped? Which engine? 3.8 had a lot of head gasket problems and you might have a cylinder full of coolant. Noise prior to this problem during start might have indicated an extremely worn ring gear and starter drive. (not a common problem).
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    A word to the wise on that CAF. The aftermarket is cheap paper junk (why it is so cheap next to OE). And because of the location it is likely to get wet during rain. The OE is a mat of long glass fibers and very washable. It had never been changed in the vehicle my wife acquired and at 100K it was totally plugged with dirt and road film to the point it acted like a layer of tar. Heavy duty degreasers, purple stuff, and a wash made it look like new. And far cheaper than an OE replacement.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Choose your poison? This is an issue that should be handled the same way the old issue for requiring Ford oil changes, filters, etc to maintain warranty. And it relates to the computer. With OBD II, the computer is programable (EEPROM) with Ford (all of them actually) only equipment. If you run into a problem in this area, they pull the computer and take it to the dealer to have it reprogrammed. So how much does that cost of running to the dealer cost you on their time? Their are claims that this chip can get accidentally reprogrammed. Evidence is that they have to take it to the dealer? Common stated cause is that loose electrical connections cause noise(electrical) doing it. I've questioned the possibility of this and have no technical evidence but can do a quick comparison. This is to another EEPROM, the BIOS chip in your home computer. I have personally seen where power interruptions, even crash, restarts sometimes mess up the settings in some registers. You might not even see an outward indication by checking the settings in the BIOS screen. Sometimes, because a portion of that chip is permanently burned to factory setting for your machine, powering down and doing the BIOS reset can overcome a problem. Then do the normal setup within the BIOS screen.
    The name that comes to mind concerning the issue for factory parts is Magnussen? Something like that. Until they include a factory burn default for this chip which the owner can reset, there will be dealerships taking advantage of customers with their ability to program it to something it shouldn't be. That is until the warranty goes out. And giving every shop the ability to do it won't stop the unscrupulous from doing it. Give me the pre OBD II back, where it was good or bad and no in-between.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    This is merely the honesty of the shop you use. You are lucky in that you found such, but then they are lacking in some areas. They can't program the computer if it accidentally got reprogrammed by noise. But regardless of dealer or local shop, there are plenty of bad practices to go around. Does this shop use impact wrenches? This is something that should be outlawed in any shop where the disassembly requires reassembly of the same parts. And it involves what I consider the second most important component in a vehicle, the brakes. Only tires rate higher because brakes don't mean anything if the tires won't do their job.
    With very few exceptions, because of a specially designed brake rotor, brakes are negatively impacted and sometimes severely by the use of impact wrenchs when remounting wheels. Metal is compressible and doing so with improper torque puts uneven pressure or even pressure different than the original design to the rotor and with time, a few heatings and coolings, that pressure has spread through the rotor and warped it. So you pay for a brake job because of their bad work. (per dealer, runout for a rotor is in the neighborhood of .0003")
    Another example relating the importance of torque and metal stresses. For many years it was deemed impossible to get past the heavy use of oil in a new or rebuild and they used a breakin oil. They seemed to have reached a barrier that no matter how perfectly they bored the cylinder wall there would be a small gap to the ring. They finally learned it came about when the head was bolted up to the block. And eventually employed the solution of bolting up a dummy head prior to doing the machining of the cylinder wall. Today we have much tighter engines thanks to that technology. Why aren't rotors treated with the same importance?
    Hand torqueing will remain a priority until some old technology is employed in the manufacturer of the braking system.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Just an added thought on tires for sable. I had used the same site for research of tires. Vehicles checked were 95 Regal, 96 Aurora, 97 Sable. Owners loved the Khumo on Aurora and Sable, hated on Regal. I put them on the Aurora(not autobahn model) and find them to be an excellent tire so far with about 15K. Can't speak for snow and extreme cold but they ride good, quiet, and excellent traction on wet, can't see your hand rain, or dry. Wife did the Sable and snuck off to badyear. Damned shop burned her, not only with the tires. I knew it needed the stabilizer links replaced as the boots were gone and you'd get the occaisonal metal chatter going over rough road. Of course they charged her for an alignment which shouldn't have been done until the components were replaced. And they used their GD impact wrenches. By the time I learned she did it, it had already warped the brakes. Tires seem OK, but haven't checked wet and believe they are too loose in the sidewall allowing the excessive sway suddenly introduced to the rear.
    And the Regal! Well the daughter did this one. And after having the same crappie tires on a Taurus which were gone in 2 weeks under the love or leave 30 days. They had terrible dry road traction compared to the previous and the ones that replaced them. It was easy to lock em and slide w/o ABS. The Regal, don't remember the OE's, but last were Michelin. These damned Generals won't even do well with ABS. Never left a tire mark with pedal to the floor ABS doing all it could, except on very hot asphalt, and then it would leave a faint mark. Checked the General's on cool asphalt with the ABS doing all it could, tire squeal with broken tire marks and found myself trying to correct skid at the wheel. New mental note. Never buy a car, new or used, with Generals unless I plan to buy new tires the next day.
    Summing, Khumo's excellent on Aurora. Preferred over Michelin and badyear eagle by comments at tire site. I could not disagree and less than half price.
    Sable, I'd bet the Khumo would have been better than the badyear choice in part because of this model tire reputation and mainly because the other shop didn't screw my brake job.
    Regal, Generals no good, as on the Taurus. I'd bet the Khumo superior here even against owners writings. Enough that I'd chance the Khumo at half the price of the Michelin. The Michelins were excellent compared to OE, but something that I've noticed on some Michelins as well as many others. As the tire gets older and more milage, especially older, it tends to harden. Tires had 85K and still about 4/32 rubber. Traction was still excellent dry although not as good as new because of hardness. Wet extremely good yet as well, with minor degradation, but caution on standing water was advisable.

    Number one, hand torque wheel nuts, that is with a torque wrench!
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    A/C sudden death. Suspect it not a leak. Jumping low pressure switch will not activate clutch.
    Looking for ideas.
    Where are the fuses for A/C and a fuse chart? I don't have the owners book.
    Where is this A/C relay I've heard about? I have the power distribution box above the radiator, but the chart in the cover doesn't point to any of them as A/C.
    Any other trouble shooting points will be appreciated, such as how to check out the other switch, likely a high pressure with 3 or 4 wires.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    This is easy. Your symptoms indicate a partially plugged radiator. Flushing helps, but won't cure this problem - it needs to be rodded out. Not an expensive fix, but get it to a radiator shop. After they're done, you'll run cool as ever again.
    Around $100 usually, less if you take it out yourself and drop it off at the Radiator shop.
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