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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • mdhugmdhug Member Posts: 9
    Thanks will try tomorrow to see what happens
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Sounds like a marginal system that when the heat from the transmission is added it becomes almost a problem. Unless the system has been neglected, corrosion should not be a problem. Probably had long-life coolant when new which would be at most just past a year of expiring.
    How does the inside of the overflow bottle look? Are there signs of contamination? was the green junk ever used and not changed every year? Or maybe someone ran straight water or less than correct amount of coolant. Oily film could be from bad head. Does the system ever seem to over pressure. Do you see bubbles in the reservoir?
    Some had an auxiliary transmission cooler in front of the radiator in addition to the one in the end tank. Did someone remove the auxilliary?
    Is the torque converter not locking causing extra heat? or maybe slipping more than it should?
    Heard that some of the 24 valve models had head problems like the 3.8's.
  • poonerpooner Member Posts: 5
    Do you have any tips on replacing the rear sway bar links, mine sheared off my 97 and I have the replacement unit, just can't get the bar low enough to install it? Thanks.
  • poonerpooner Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone have any suggestions on how to replace this linkage which has sheared off. I purchased the new "heavy duty" replacement , but can't get the bar low enough to put the link in. Thanks
  • mikel4mikel4 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 96 Taurus w/ 3.0L OHV, which I am trying to pull without pulling the trans.

    As far as I can tell, I've got all the bellhousing to block bolts, torque converter bolts, and motor mounts out or loose, but It seems like the thing is in a bind and won't seperate from the trans. I can get movement between the block and trans on the left/front side, but it wont budge on the right/rear side (closest to the transaxle).

    Does the trans mount in the left side of the frame have to come out? It doesn't look like it is connected directly to the motor, just the to trans so I left it intact. I've got both right side motor mounts off, but still can't get it to budge.

    Is there anything in the driveaxles or trans that I have to do to get them to seperate?

    Any help would be appreciated-
  • mcolliganmcolligan Member Posts: 2
    :sick: Hi...

    I have a quick question..wondering if someone can help.

    I have a 96 Sable sedan. When pulling into work this morning I noticed my engine temp near H. I pulled into my spot and opened the engine to find the coolant tank 'popping' and steaming and anit-freeze all over the floor under the engine. I am assuming 1) I have a leak but 2) why would the tank sputter and steam like that?

    Many thanks.
    Mike
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Can you say boil? You really already knew the answer, just needed to wrap your mind around it. The idea of a pressurized system is to stop the boilover and the radiator cap with its built in pressure relief acts like the regulator on a pressure cooker. When the designated heat/pressure is reached, it will allow bleed off maintaining the upper limit. The (usually done with this) weight on top jiggles and sputters as pressure is released.

    For some reason your vehicle reached a boil over condition. Was it low on coolant, radiator blocked, thermostat stuck, etc.?
    Remember steam is an invisible gas and 212 degrees at atmospheric pressure. As pressure is increased, it gets hotter. That is why a pressure cooker cooks much faster than an open kettle. How much hotter? Well we'd need a chart to see exactly or a thermometer and pressure guage. Here is a real life example. When I was a kid working at Jolly Green, I'd grab a clean bucket and stuff it full of freshly cleaned ears of corn about 10 minutes before the lunch whistle. I'd push a steam line with its big brass nozzle to the bottom of the bucket and open the valve. In less than 4 minutes we'd have freshly cooked corn on the cob. Try putting a dozen and a half in your microwave and see how long it takes.

    On the other side of it, you might have a much ugglier problem causing the over pressure. A blown head gasket will allow hot gases of a much higher pressure into the coolant system.

    Good luck
  • mcolliganmcolligan Member Posts: 2
    Now that I am thinking about it. I just had a tune up done on the car a few weeks ago and one of the things done was a flush of the coolant system. THey probably didnt tighten a clamp and that's where the leak is coming from.

    I assume if the coolant is leaking, the car overheats and causes the pressure to build in the reservoir tank.

    Thanks.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Seems there are plenty of overheat problems. Mine is with the wife because the A/C quit. Someone help me get her cooled down before she cooks me.
    I need help with getting the compressor to come on. Jumping low pressure switch didn't work.
    I need a fuse chart.
    I need to know the location of the relay.
    And maybe suggestions to where there is a good on-line manual or where I can find CD's.
  • rufus7rufus7 Member Posts: 3
    well I have the same engine took it in to have a tune up they said $90 when they found out it was a dual overhead they quickly changed the price to over $200 so I ended up doing it myself you do have to take the engine apart a little bit (I think I only took off the manifold has the egine label on it) to get access to the far plugs pretty simple though. You could also try renting a diagnostic from shucks, checker, kragen most of them will rent them out charge you for it and then when you return it you get your money back. It will at least tell you what sytem has the problems.
  • badsablebadsable Member Posts: 3
    I hate this car.The A/C in my 2001 Sable doesnt work it doesnt blow any air cold or hot.I'm not sure what it is can anyone help e
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Most likely just blew a fuse. Replace it and you should have blow.
  • henkel1henkel1 Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever find the problem? I have a '98 Ford Taurus wagon and just took it in for an oil change. They told me the transmission lines are leaking badly (in the same area as you described). I am calling around now to find someone to take a look at it.
  • badsablebadsable Member Posts: 3
    Sorry but I forgot to say that I checked all the fuses and never found a problem.Does anyone know were the Motor blower is.I have another problem with the car now Im having alot of problems getting to shift the gear from park to Reverse.But no problem changing gears from reverse to drive.It gets stuck and I have to pump the brakes alot to try to get to go.I hate this car.
  • spadezspadez Member Posts: 2
    I'm having the same problem with a 2000 Sable - happened about a year ago; the mechanic says it frothed up out of the reservoir; he claimed there was probably just some air in the line, and that there wasn't anything he could do. Hadn't seen the problem again until today: parked it in the driveway this afternoon, and a few hours later noticed a puddle of power steering fluid. Looks like it came out of the top of the reservoir again.

    Jatabt, did you ever figure out what was wrong? Anyone have any ideas, or know if it's safe to drive the car like this?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I found a Haynes and as sorry as those manuals are, it at least showed a rough wiring diagram. The blown fuse is another question. It refers to the cover, which mine is missing, for the diagram. I did see that the reverse lights use a 15A fuse and because I'm having the broken wires at the lift gate, suspect the wire broke and shorted.
    On the A/C, it showed the high pressure switch but it's logic is "fuzzy". It appears to be a double pole, double throw and maybe drawn in the inop state but the low pressure switch is drawn in the op state. Side shown making contact puts a ground on a terminal in either the relay box or main computer. The other set of contacts will close a circuit related to either the main computer or relay box. I can only hope that I don't need the PCM (main computer) or even the little relay box. Parts man told me this contraption was used in late 90 Fords and believed to never need replacing. Ford doesn't even have them and to fix his mothers car they had to get one out of a used parts house. Another one of those better ideas that will stop me from buying any newer Detroit product. I can only guess how much of the car will have to be torn apart should I need to replace a compressor. I know that it is impossible to get at the electrical connector on the compressor.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
  • lilsuzylilsuzy Member Posts: 1
    My car has had a continuous problem with the engine light coming on. My Ford mechanic said that it is usually something to do with the emission system and is nothing serious. I bought the car used in 2002, have had my car serviced regularly, and racked up only 65,000 miles. Service records indicate that this engine light has been a problem off and on for about two years. Every time the light comes on I have it looked at and records indicate a coded problem that is "fixed". For the March 2005 service, I once again had the code fixed. I drove it about 4000 miles and took it in for service two weeks ago. The engine light was on and blinking off and on occasionally - the motor would sputter, too. After diagnostics, the Ford mechanic said the code showed that I had a dead cylinder but that he needed to take the engine apart to find out what else might be wrong. I approved the $350 charge. The outcome was that my engine was gone - bent rods, burnt pistons, melted gasket - the whole enchilada. Replacement was estimated at $4800.
    My question is: how did this happen? The engine light problem was always minimized to me. What else could have happened to the car that was causing the light to come on? After going in and having the light "fixed" four times, shouldn't the mechanics have done more that "what the computer told them to do?" I now have a car with no value and I owe a year's worth of payments. Help.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    That would probably be it, If I could read it.
  • slovikovskislovikovski Member Posts: 8
    1998 taurus.....30k mileage check....yes 30k!!!! have had a problem it seems when the car kicks into overdrive around 30-40 miles /hour....get sort of a bucking feel.....repair shop pulled the pan...found metal in the fluid and recommended not flushing and refilling in lieu of a potentially more serious problem....what to do????
  • dustinnoedustinnoe Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1993 Ford Taurus. The transmission is jerking very bad. It is mainly when I accelerate but it will also do it while cruising. I'm not sure if it does it in gears other then overdrive but I think it may. Any ideas on what the problem may be? Know any good web pages for taurus transmissions?
  • ddltrekddltrek Member Posts: 1
    How easy is it to replace a water pump on a 1998 Ford Taurus SE V6. The pump is on top of the engine. Repair shops want 70/hr x 2.7 hours
  • sksheridansksheridan Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2000 Taurus. It started about a week ago when I noticed a whine coming from the power steering pump when I made turns. The fluid does look like it has been frothed, and there is fluid all over the engine now. There is also a hot electrical smell when I open the top of the power steering fluid reservoir.
  • moerodmoerod Member Posts: 7
    hi, a couple of weeks ago my 2001 sable ls premium with 80,000 started to sputter and shut of on me, i started to mess with the fuses checked the fuel pump fuse, took it out saw it was ok and put it back and when i turn on the car it started on and have not had any more problems since. today, when i turned the car on it sounded as if it wanted to shut off so i reved it and it stayed on, but i noticed that whenever i reach 4000 rpm the car starts to sputter, i've tried it several times, the car will be in park or neutral and if i rev it to 4000 rpm it sputters. any idea.
  • p0zburnp0zburn Member Posts: 2
    What transmission do they have in these things? I have 3.8 L engine.
    Do they take any special kind of ATF?
    Thanks
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Does anyone have accurate knowledge of how the hi pressure switch works. That is do both switches close together or is one or the other.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Probably don't need the logic on the hi pressure switch. Located the culprit. drilled the fasteners on the CCRM, little black box by the battery. It has hi & lo speed relays for fans, fuel pump relay, and a module for compressor. Acts like two relays, throwing power to clutch from dash switch via high pressure switch. And a line from PCM to break the contact during WOT. Drilling the second set of retainers to get the unit loose from the mounting plate confirmed an indication on the front of the unit. Part of the module was bulged out. The solder joint on the back side was melted loose. Not likely I'll find a unit today, but NAPA said they knew of a rebuilder of them.
  • obiwantedjobiwantedj Member Posts: 2
    I am in the middle of problem right now with front ball joints on a 1997 Taurus.
    I bought new ball joints and had a mechanic install them. The passenger side slid out of the knucle and is rubbing against the hub. In trying to get a good idea of what I was going to say when the car goes back to the mechanic, I look in my factory service manual. It says you are not supposed to remove the ball joints. If they are worn out you have to replace the entire knucle assembly with the ball joint already attached. This is probably true for your 2001 also. I also had a 1991 Taurus wagon with bad ball joints (after 200k miles!). In that case the ball joints were installed on a lower control arm.
  • mbmaraudermbmarauder Member Posts: 1
    Just spent the entire weekend trying to replace the 3 rear spark plugs on my 2000 Taurus. Finally gave up deciding this was an impossible task. I tried every possible way to get to these plugs. I tried to reach them from the top and bottom of vehicle. I tried to move the engine forward as i was instructed by the auto parts store where i bought the plugs, still no luck. The engineer who designed this engine should have his degree revoked and be sent to a gulog in SIBERIA!!! I am sure that if Henry Ford were alive today he would kick these engineers tails to the ends of the earth!!! I am sure that this design is on purpose so that you have to go to the dealer to get this work done. What a RIP-OFF!!!!! I even searched the computer forums for instructions and only came away with over 60 articles on why you should not buy a Taurus because of the spark plug replacement problems. I guess i should have researched all this before i purchased a Taurus!!! OH WELL, LESSON LEARNED!!! No more FORDS for me!!!
  • obiwantedjobiwantedj Member Posts: 2
    How did your brake job ever turn out?

    My 1997 has the access port right behind the read strut. I spent hours trying to back off the adjuster with no success.

    Here's what worked for me (you may not want to try this at home). Get a dremel with a cut off wheel. Make your own port on the out side of the drum. The steel is very thin. Then I could look right at the adjuster and turn it with my fingers. This is only effective if you plan on replacing the drum alreay.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I feel your pain. sorry. First, you should have asked for a printout of every diagnosis that they put it through. Ask before dropping the car off if the printer is working and let them know the printout is part of what you are paying for in the diagnosis. That machine, I'm told has a live hook up to Ford where they maintain databases. How much info is exchanged in the hook-up, I don't know. Do you know the codes for every time you took it in? Better still if you had had it scanned elsewhere for those codes prior to taking it in. Everytime the light comes on it should set a code and a snapshot of all parameters should be in the computer. It is retained for a length of time. It is quite possible there should have been some indication of the impending damage. But then sometimes things just happen. I usually find much more often that they are the result of someones bad work.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Wife is temporarily happy. I'm not. Idiot who hooked up guages and announced system had too much freon undoubtably didn't flush lines. Had 110# w/o system running on 90 degree day. Since it isn't cooling quite as well as before, I believe he introduced air into the system via unpurged guage set. He needs to go back to school. When I asked him how much he let out he said not much, only about 5#. And that it isn't critical. He does it all the time. Extra oil won't hurt. HELLO! Too much and blow the compressor. Oil doesn't compress. And their probably isn't a system out there anymore that takes 5# except a bus. I recently looked at reports about recycled freon. They were alarmed at the amount of contamination they were getting at the site. Cross contamination of different freons mixed and a very large percentage with air mixed in the freon. To degrade your system as much as 10% it only takes a few parts per million of air. In other words that prior to the hot season check up where they introduce the air might be fine then, but it gets you back when it is really hot. Maybe they need to add $10K fines and jail time for such work.
    Your cars number one enemy is the mechanic. And near the top of the list is the tire changer.
  • mdhugmdhug Member Posts: 9
    1st thanks to nv banker on the plugged radiator deal. 99 sable 117k 24valve w/ od button on shifter. Rebuilt tranny 1 year ago. Sometimes at 60 or higher o/d light flashes causing the check engine light. ran codes and it said bad torque converter lock-up switch. had dealer buy the part. My first question is would this make the car shift hard from 1st to second sometimes( doesn't do it all the time ) and is this causing the jerky shift from 3rd to fourth. Also how hard is this to do myself or my dad said I can drive it 2 hours away and his tranny buddy will install for $35. Could something else be wrong. any help appreciated. It is still a nice car and after 8 tauruses and sables this is the first one I have had to touch. Guess I have had all the rare good ones :) ">
  • ram2442ram2442 Member Posts: 3
    I have the exact same symptons, and I am working down the list of possibles. So far the distributor and cap and air charges sensor have been replaced. The Throttle Position Sensor checked out as OK, and I have used a bottle of dry gas and fuel cleaner in 2 succesive tanks. Still no joy. Anyone been down this road with the 3.8?
  • taurusbluestaurusblues Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Taurus with 97K miles. Generally, good car but the last few years have been replacing major things. Now, getting a rhythmic noise on the front end that sounds like the tires -- faster and higher pitch the faster you go. I have had a mechanic look at it -- says nothing mechanically wrong. I have rotated and balanced tires and now put new tires on the front. Any ideas why I am still getting this noise?
  • ram2442ram2442 Member Posts: 3
    Here is the original post:

    I have a 94 Taurus and am having significant problems. I should have learned with my 89 Taurus, which had many problems also.

    Besides many small things we've had done on the car I have replaced the air conditioning, just replaced the radiator and now my most immediate problem is starting last summer my car would shut down in warm weather (humid, 80 degrees or above after driving for about 1.5 to 2 hours.

    Once the car cools down and the weather does slightly the car will work again. Of course I have had this into several dealerships with no resolve.

    I have suggested the head gasket (because of the recent recall) but they have insisted that this is not the problem.

    My engine light goes on when this happens but leaves no codes in the computer. Of course because this is intermittent they can not give me any answer except, they can start replacing parts and wait to see if I know longer have the problem, which would be very expensive.

    I no longer consider this car reliable and we are looking to get a Toyota Sienna, but plan on still keeping the car for around town driving as I know we will not get much for it.

    Does anyone out there have this or have had this problem with their Taurus. I would love some feedback. Thanks
  • dad2mandedad2mande Member Posts: 1
    : :sick: :confuse :mad: my 2003 sable after running out of gas for the 50th time will not start. changed the fuel filter , fuel pump relay , checked all the fuses and the inertia switch please tell me there might be something else besides the fuel pump that might be in neeed of repair. car has spark and will run for a few seconds w/ starting fluid in the intake.i no longer hear the whirring of the fuel pump from under the backseat but there is a whirring sound from under the hood when the ignition is turned on . help me please a new fuel pump costs $427.00 from ford and no local autopart stores sell them here in town.
  • p0zburnp0zburn Member Posts: 2
    ok nevermind
  • tjdepere2004tjdepere2004 Member Posts: 40
    I suggest you might want to get out your owners manual and look through it. It could tell you what to do if you run out of gas and how to find a button, usually in the trunk, and how to press it. Press it and that could make you happier.
  • tcinmitcinmi Member Posts: 2
    My friend has a 1998 Ford Taurus that is a piece of junk yes, but they bought it that way to get him through college then to basically take it to a junk heap. I am the owner of a wonderful 2003 Taurus (only problems I have had with it are accidents 1 of my doing, 2 not, transmission and everything under the hood is fine) and he has a semi-loud noise coming from the area of either the A) exhaust headers or B) the oil pan. To give any descripition it sounds more like he is running a diesel engine inside that little car. I told him it might be a oil pump as I couldn't feel any air being pushed out of the exhaust system (going to school to be auto technican). Any ideas on what this problem could be? He knows nothing about cars, I'm the car wizard to him and I'm still just in school lol. I just want to figure out what the noise is as it is a very annoying little sound. Thanks in advance.

    ~TCINMI
  • tcinmitcinmi Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Taurus and have no problems getting to the rear plugs. I've infact had all six of my spark plugs out. Pretty much this is a problem that you're going to run into with any Front-Wheel Drive cars that are V-6's. I had the same problem in my Ford Contour but my parents also have a V-6 Grand Prix (2005) with the plugs in the rear. Try going from the left side of the vehicle and leaning in that way. The only other thing I could think to suggest is get a new intake manifold gasket set and take the intake manifold off, that should give you plenty of room with the way it folds over like that, although I do feel your pain about trying to change those plugs.
  • rdn2rdn2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello: I'm new here so I hope this isn't a repeat. The driver's power seat switch failed and needs to be replaced. I have a new switch. Replacement is simple, unplug, remove two screws. The PROBLEM is ACCESS. It seems to be impossible to get at the screws and to find space to remove the switch. Is there a "trick" to this or is it really the nightmare it seems to be? Frustrated! Any advice would be extremely appreciated. Thanks.
  • bellaseribellaseri Member Posts: 4
    Hi,
    I was looking to buy a 93-99 Ford Taurus..I have heard they can have major transmission problem's is this true for all taurus's and if so what about what mileage do they usaully go out at.Please help me before I need help.Also how does the taurus in these yrs fair as dependability.Any help will be appreciated.
    Since I'm looking for a use car which is the best americian car as far as dependability.
    Thanks for your help.
    Tyler
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Are there any other indicators that might lead to problem? Is it only when air is on, does the temp vary much once warmed, etc? I had an unusual to me as the car would intermittantly run rough at lights and sometimes die according to my daughter. I went over it several times and ran the self diagnostics without any indication of the trouble. I started getting a little physical with poking around while the engine was running and it died. Turned out that a vacuum hose had a crack and at idle it would sometimes suck air. At high rpms, not a problem.
  • spadezspadez Member Posts: 2
    Took the Sable to my mechanic earlier this week. They flushed the power steering system and replaced the PS fluid with one that contained a sealant. It seems to have resolved the problem; no more leak, and the steering has stopped making that embarrasing groaning noise in parking lots. Good luck with your Taurus!
  • mikedinkmikedink Member Posts: 2
  • mikedinkmikedink Member Posts: 2
    Water on front passenger floor under rug - ALOT of water. Air conditioning drainage hose has been checked - WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sunroof drain is possible if you have one or even more likely a clogged drain at the bottom of your fresh air vents, under your windshield wipers.
  • bellaseribellaseri Member Posts: 4
    Where were the 60 articles on why you shouldn't buy a Taurus?
    Thanks,
    Tyler
  • tjdepere2004tjdepere2004 Member Posts: 40
    Take a look at your radiator. Moisture on the front floor possibly from your leaking radiator.. Is it full or down considerably--- volume wise? Does it have a slight odor? Yes to either question get thee self promptly to a radiator shop.
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