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How does the inside of the overflow bottle look? Are there signs of contamination? was the green junk ever used and not changed every year? Or maybe someone ran straight water or less than correct amount of coolant. Oily film could be from bad head. Does the system ever seem to over pressure. Do you see bubbles in the reservoir?
Some had an auxiliary transmission cooler in front of the radiator in addition to the one in the end tank. Did someone remove the auxilliary?
Is the torque converter not locking causing extra heat? or maybe slipping more than it should?
Heard that some of the 24 valve models had head problems like the 3.8's.
As far as I can tell, I've got all the bellhousing to block bolts, torque converter bolts, and motor mounts out or loose, but It seems like the thing is in a bind and won't seperate from the trans. I can get movement between the block and trans on the left/front side, but it wont budge on the right/rear side (closest to the transaxle).
Does the trans mount in the left side of the frame have to come out? It doesn't look like it is connected directly to the motor, just the to trans so I left it intact. I've got both right side motor mounts off, but still can't get it to budge.
Is there anything in the driveaxles or trans that I have to do to get them to seperate?
Any help would be appreciated-
I have a quick question..wondering if someone can help.
I have a 96 Sable sedan. When pulling into work this morning I noticed my engine temp near H. I pulled into my spot and opened the engine to find the coolant tank 'popping' and steaming and anit-freeze all over the floor under the engine. I am assuming 1) I have a leak but 2) why would the tank sputter and steam like that?
Many thanks.
Mike
For some reason your vehicle reached a boil over condition. Was it low on coolant, radiator blocked, thermostat stuck, etc.?
Remember steam is an invisible gas and 212 degrees at atmospheric pressure. As pressure is increased, it gets hotter. That is why a pressure cooker cooks much faster than an open kettle. How much hotter? Well we'd need a chart to see exactly or a thermometer and pressure guage. Here is a real life example. When I was a kid working at Jolly Green, I'd grab a clean bucket and stuff it full of freshly cleaned ears of corn about 10 minutes before the lunch whistle. I'd push a steam line with its big brass nozzle to the bottom of the bucket and open the valve. In less than 4 minutes we'd have freshly cooked corn on the cob. Try putting a dozen and a half in your microwave and see how long it takes.
On the other side of it, you might have a much ugglier problem causing the over pressure. A blown head gasket will allow hot gases of a much higher pressure into the coolant system.
Good luck
I assume if the coolant is leaking, the car overheats and causes the pressure to build in the reservoir tank.
Thanks.
I need help with getting the compressor to come on. Jumping low pressure switch didn't work.
I need a fuse chart.
I need to know the location of the relay.
And maybe suggestions to where there is a good on-line manual or where I can find CD's.
Jatabt, did you ever figure out what was wrong? Anyone have any ideas, or know if it's safe to drive the car like this?
On the A/C, it showed the high pressure switch but it's logic is "fuzzy". It appears to be a double pole, double throw and maybe drawn in the inop state but the low pressure switch is drawn in the op state. Side shown making contact puts a ground on a terminal in either the relay box or main computer. The other set of contacts will close a circuit related to either the main computer or relay box. I can only hope that I don't need the PCM (main computer) or even the little relay box. Parts man told me this contraption was used in late 90 Fords and believed to never need replacing. Ford doesn't even have them and to fix his mothers car they had to get one out of a used parts house. Another one of those better ideas that will stop me from buying any newer Detroit product. I can only guess how much of the car will have to be torn apart should I need to replace a compressor. I know that it is impossible to get at the electrical connector on the compressor.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d801aff08.jpg
My question is: how did this happen? The engine light problem was always minimized to me. What else could have happened to the car that was causing the light to come on? After going in and having the light "fixed" four times, shouldn't the mechanics have done more that "what the computer told them to do?" I now have a car with no value and I owe a year's worth of payments. Help.
Do they take any special kind of ATF?
Thanks
I bought new ball joints and had a mechanic install them. The passenger side slid out of the knucle and is rubbing against the hub. In trying to get a good idea of what I was going to say when the car goes back to the mechanic, I look in my factory service manual. It says you are not supposed to remove the ball joints. If they are worn out you have to replace the entire knucle assembly with the ball joint already attached. This is probably true for your 2001 also. I also had a 1991 Taurus wagon with bad ball joints (after 200k miles!). In that case the ball joints were installed on a lower control arm.
My 1997 has the access port right behind the read strut. I spent hours trying to back off the adjuster with no success.
Here's what worked for me (you may not want to try this at home). Get a dremel with a cut off wheel. Make your own port on the out side of the drum. The steel is very thin. Then I could look right at the adjuster and turn it with my fingers. This is only effective if you plan on replacing the drum alreay.
Your cars number one enemy is the mechanic. And near the top of the list is the tire changer.
I have a 94 Taurus and am having significant problems. I should have learned with my 89 Taurus, which had many problems also.
Besides many small things we've had done on the car I have replaced the air conditioning, just replaced the radiator and now my most immediate problem is starting last summer my car would shut down in warm weather (humid, 80 degrees or above after driving for about 1.5 to 2 hours.
Once the car cools down and the weather does slightly the car will work again. Of course I have had this into several dealerships with no resolve.
I have suggested the head gasket (because of the recent recall) but they have insisted that this is not the problem.
My engine light goes on when this happens but leaves no codes in the computer. Of course because this is intermittent they can not give me any answer except, they can start replacing parts and wait to see if I know longer have the problem, which would be very expensive.
I no longer consider this car reliable and we are looking to get a Toyota Sienna, but plan on still keeping the car for around town driving as I know we will not get much for it.
Does anyone out there have this or have had this problem with their Taurus. I would love some feedback. Thanks
~TCINMI
I was looking to buy a 93-99 Ford Taurus..I have heard they can have major transmission problem's is this true for all taurus's and if so what about what mileage do they usaully go out at.Please help me before I need help.Also how does the taurus in these yrs fair as dependability.Any help will be appreciated.
Since I'm looking for a use car which is the best americian car as far as dependability.
Thanks for your help.
Tyler
Thanks,
Tyler