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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • zrokewl24zrokewl24 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, my wife and i purchased a 1995 taurus wagon (BIG mistake) When we drive with the A/C on for 10-12 miles, then get out of the car while running, with the cooling fan on, you can smell gas really bad. i've had it up on a hoist and looked at every inch of all fuel lines between the tank and the front fender where they run through a little 'C' channel up to the engine compartment. From there to the fuel rails and etc. I see no wet spots or anywhere it might be leaking. I took it to a shop and they found nothing, they also drove the car, and when they finally smelled fuel, they are telling me that it must be dumping down the exhaust and they want to do an engine diagnostics to determine where it's going. Seems to me that if the car were sending that much fuel through the motor that it would be stumbling and have severe drivability problems.. Also note that we're only getting about 120 miles to a TANK of gas. does anyone have any other ideas??? i was thinking evap canister and/or related lines, but i'm at a dead end... they're wanting to charge me 75 bucks for engine diag. ??? please help. Thanks.
  • djofsurreydjofsurrey Member Posts: 1
    My cruse control and horn have stopped working on my 2001 Ford Taurus wagon.
    I am thinking it could be a fuse. I can't find my manual; can anyone tell me what fuse number I should be checking? :confuse:
  • bcarebcare Member Posts: 1
    I ahve a 1995 Taurus and it has a small spoiler on the trunk lid. I am assuming it came like that from the factory. Inside the spoiler there is a tail light or brake light. The vehicle failed the NJ state inspection because this light didn't work. I am assuming it only needs a bulb replaced, however, I can't seem to remove the spoiler to get to the bulb housing. Anyone who knows how to do this, your help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Bill
  • vctauvctau Member Posts: 6
    I have a 99 taurus with an embarassing problem. When I park the car in my office garage, the truck pops open by itself. I suspect someone's remote is crossing my remote's frequency. What can I do to stop this? is there anyother reason why this might happen? :confuse:
  • dilbertzzzdilbertzzz Member Posts: 190
    It's called RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) and it isn't necessarily another automotive remote. There could simply be some other radio frequencies bouncing around your parking garage (the guards walkie talkies maybe? Remote alarm sensors or cameras?) that are the source of the accidental match up to your "open trunk" command code.

    The only way I can think of to guarantee it doesn't work would be to disconnect the remote opening feature on your trunk and go back to using the key. Otherwise, just make sure your battery is good (to avoid running it down from having the trunk light on all day) and that nothing is left in the car that you can't live without.... ;)
  • vctauvctau Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for your reply dilbertzzz. Yeah, it might be any one of those things. How can I disconnect the remote opening feature? is there a switch or wire I need to disconnect?
  • 02taurusses02taurusses Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Taurus with an automatic transmission. On numerous occasions, when I come to an abrupt stop, it slips into neutral. When that happens, it will either clunk into drive or I have to shift to neutral and then back to drive to get it to occur. I took it to the dealer who just said I needed to replace the transmission, even though they are getting NO error messages on the computer, the engine light does not come on and they didn't crack the trans to look inside. I took it to a transmission specialty shop and they are hesitant to open the trans up because they cannot get any kind of error code on the computer showing there are any problems - electronic, hydraulic or otherwise. Any thoughts on what might be wrong or how it can be effectively diagnosed without opening the thing up? :confuse:
  • dilbertzzzdilbertzzz Member Posts: 190
    I'll have to see if I can get a chance to check the manual and fuse box tomorrow. But I'm guessing the easiest way would be to pull the fuse if they were nice enough to isolate the trunk lid remote function from the doors (probably no such luck, eh?). Otherwise, it might be easiest to reach the electrical release connection at the latch itself. Unfortunately, that would also disable the electric trunk release on the dash as well.

    Now that I think more about it, maybe it would be worth asking the dealer about reprogramming the remote frequencies? They'll probably soak you for $50 to a $100 dollars, but it might be worth it to keep the remote trunk lid functionality, though it might not guarantee that the problem is solved. Wouldn't hurt to ask them, though.
  • merbanmerban Member Posts: 1
    I was having transmission problem and my mechanic overhauled the transmission. However after the costly overhaul, the car won't shift to overdrive. Replace shift solenoid (I guess there were four), TPS and another sensor hooked near the air cleaner. The car still won't shift to overdrive. Does anyone suggest what could the problem be? Thanks for anyone responding to my plea.
  • chas4273chas4273 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I am having the same problem--did you find a solution??? On my 97 there's a clicking sound from the fuse box area when I press the down side of the switch but nothing for up. Everything else seems to be working normally. The only thing I did to the car prior to the window not working was to replace the fuse for the cigarette lighter.
    Thanks, Chas.
  • tauromaquiatauromaquia Member Posts: 3
    Hi all...need your help in identifying a problem. My car will stall without any warning. It will start fine and drive it to work, when I return to the parking lot to go home it will not start. Something very unusual I noticed is that when I turn the ignition key into the on position I hear the cooling fan from the radiator coming on, and the fan and AC switches are in the off position inside the car. Also, I hear the gas pump continuesly running while on contact. If I try it to crank it the engine will turn but will not start. I also notice that the check engine light will not go off.
    Here is what I have done so far. When i disconnect the battery and let it sit for a while the car's engine will start. The radiator fan will not come on and the gas pump will energized for about 20 sec and stops. The car runs fine like I said before, but then stalls...I did a complete tune up, change the spark plugs, wires, distributor and rotor. Changed the oil and filter. Checked for leaks on hoses and all seems to be fine. I checked the EEC for error codes, I do not get any. :confuse: I also tried a control module but no change. :mad: Any suggestions or ideas to help me with my commuter car is appreciated
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    "change the spark plugs, wires, distributor and rotor. Changed the oil and filter."

    Stop throwing parts at it. If the Check Engine light has been on there should be diagnostic trouble codes stored in the engine control computer. Get the codes retrieved (AutoZone will do it no charge) and post the codes.
  • tauromaquiatauromaquia Member Posts: 3
    Thank you Alcan for the sugestion. You see, when I get the car to start, the engine light goes off and there is no codes to check. It only comes on when the car has not been driven for a while and only then I get the fan and the gas pump going...once the fan stops running for about 5 min. then I can start the engine...I will check again the engine control computer again to see if I get any codes...any other suggestions if codes not available?
  • lillybellislillybellis Member Posts: 2
    A couple of days ago, I pulled into a parking space and made a very sharp left turn. When I turned the steering wheel into the straight position after I pulled in, I noticed a noise coming from the front of the car. When I pulled out to go home, everytime I would turn the steering wheel, a whirring/groaning sound would come from the front of the car. It makes an almost imperceptible noise when going straight, but the load groan/grinding noise when I turn.

    I took the car to a mechanic today, and he called to tell me that my power steering fluid looked black, and that he recommended a flush to take care of the problem. I had the flush done, and when I went to pick up the car, when I made a right hand turn out of the shopping center, I noticed that when I accelerated the engine RPMs went up to 6K, the check engine light came on, and the speedometer stopped working (went down to zero). After driving for awhile, the problem seemed to take care of itself. Then, I made another sharp turn, and the speedometer stopped, and the check engine light came on and stayed on. I took it back to the mechanic (because it was NOT doing this before I took it in), and he told me that he hooked it up to the computer and it said that there was a problem with the speed sensor. He said the weather could have caused it. (Personally, I think this is crap because after he took it back and messed with it for a little while, it ran just fine).

    So, I left the shop again and everything was good. I went to make another sharp turn into a parking lot, and the noise from the engine (groaning/grinding) started again. I opened the hood, and it seemed to be coming from the area where the serpentine belt is. I just had this replaced 2 months ago, and the belt appears to be in good condition. When I turn the wheel with the engine on, it almost seems like something is rubbing one of the belts when I turn the wheel - when I was looking at the engine when I turn the wheel - it seems to vibrate a lot when the wheel is turned and it's making the groaning noise.

    So... It's not the power steering fluid. What else could it be? I have put A LOT of money into this car in the past few months, and I don't need another expensive problem.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    heater still does not work, have not spent much time on it other than playing with switches have good coolant and good gauge readings you were talking bout electrical.. are we talking fuses? or somthing else ..i did pull the daylite driving fuse but that is all about i have ever done cept changing rotors and fluids still an old lady car 49k :)
  • jrod14jrod14 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I am having the same problem with my 98 Sable. The Clicking sound is from the relay that is located on top of the fuse box on the top left hand corner. It clicks only when I push the down position. When I want my window to come up, nothing happens and I do not here the clicking. If any one finds the solution to this problem, please e-mail me at drjose14@yahoo.com thank yoiu for your time in reading this message.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    I wasn't talking about anything specific electrical. Could be switches, fuses, the valve that controls coolant flow to the radiator, bad damper that controls airflow thru heater core, bad connector somewhere, etc. Lots of potential problems, that cannot be diagnosed on a discussion such as this.

    I think you are going to have to get it into a shop.

    Since when did Taurus have day time running lamps? Is yours a Canadian version?
  • taurusneedhelptaurusneedhelp Member Posts: 1
    First I'd like to say that I have never bought a Ford before. Fords have never liked people I know... Well... I bought a Taurus when my car axle went out... Big mistake...

    Ok... First the power steering started to fail... It had a leak, and I was putting a few containers of fluid in a week. so it was a big leak. It got to the point that fluid was just pouring out a couple minutes after I put it in. I took it to the shop and they told me that The seal in the Rack and Pinion was bad. So my dad and brother... who work on their cars constantly... changed it for me... Ever since then, the ABS light has been on... and the power steering is just "so-so."

    During the time that the power steering was leaking... I had a coolant leak start... The coolant looked almost rusted... not to mention it was overheating occassionally... So... I figured out that it was a leak in the coolant resevoir. I changed that, and while I was at it, I changed the thermostat. I put new coolant in it... But It still overheats. Almost every day now. It no longer has a leak, and I don't know what could be the problem.

    Oh yah... I forgot to mention that the heater blows air like the air conditioner would...

    So in summary... 1. The power steering still doesn't fully operate after changing the rack and pinion... 2. since changing the rack the ABS light is on constantly
    3. The car is overheating about everyday with no leak and a new thermostat
    and 4. the heater blows freezing cold air.

    CAN ANYONE PLEASE GIVE ME SOME ADVICE!!! :lemon:
    Thanks
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    There is no physical reason that changing the steering rack would cause ABS problems, unless something in the ABS system was accidentally damaged when the rack was installed. Maybe one of the ABS sensors on the wheels got damaged or disconnected, who knows?

    As far as overheating goes, you obviously have some cooling system problem somewhere. The fact your heater doesn't work must mean you are not even getting warm coolant circulating into your heater core. Is the whole cooling system-radiator and heater core plugged? Maybe your water pump is not working?

    Sounds to me like you bought this car used and it was not properly serviced and maintained by the previous owner(s)
  • tauromaquiatauromaquia Member Posts: 3
    Just an update on the codes...Autozone did not find any codes in the module...the problem still there...I think is something electrical or sensor that is acting up but hard to pinpoint which one...could it be the ignition switch?..any thoughts?
  • howlee22howlee22 Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 Taurus with the 3.0 Vulcan V-6(9,000 miles) has developed an oil leak.
    The dealer replaced the oil pan gasket last week but it still leaks. The oil is
    leaking from a hole located between the oil pan and the transmission pan, on
    the bottom of the bellhousing area. Could it be a leaking rear main seal?
    9,000 miles seems premature for the main seal to fail.
  • 307web307web Member Posts: 1,033
    Try having the dealer look harder for the leak next time since it should be under warranty.
    The source of leaks are not impossible to find.
  • northernil1northernil1 Member Posts: 1
    The check engine light has been on for a few weeks and now there's engine hesitation in low gears... could it be just a plug or maybe O2 sensor?? Please respond before wife gets violent.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    There was an extended warranty issued on, if I remember correctly, the "DPFE" sensor on my 2000 Taurus Duratech. If you are lucky, the problem could be this and you will get it fixed for free. I don't remember all the details as to how long the extended warranty for this particular part was, but I believe it was to 80K miles.

    Nothing has failed in this regard on mine to date, however, now at 50K miles.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    thanks man for the input i am the last guy to take a car in to a shop..... thanks anyway.... :)
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    re; canuck version dont know was a leaser from cal. still got 49k on it.. :)
  • ram2442ram2442 Member Posts: 3
    No other symptons that I have seen. I have tried replacing the coolant temp sensor, and still no love. Wont start in the mornings without some starter fluid.
    I'm wondering is the TPS is intermittently misbehaving. I'm going to try wiping the ECM memory by pulling the fuse tonight.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    re no heat i dont understand what the deal is... i put water in it and now it works.... a a mechanic and dont undestand this concept ...nonetheless its working now be well thanx dude,,,, :)
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    You mean your radiator was low and you filled it and now the heater works? Well if your cooling system was low that would have been the first thing I checked and filled to the proper level, though that in itself might not explain why your heater core was not getting any coolant. You could have cooked your engine if you were way too low.

    I hope you aren't filling your radiator with just water. You should be filling it with at least a 50-50 mix of anitfreeze and water.
  • monireemoniree Member Posts: 6
    Hey, did you ever figure what was wrong? I have a 99 Merc. sable. The OD light flashes on all the time. (There is no button on the gear shift)
    I took it to the mechanic. He said bad sylanoid. But I have the same question...would that make it shift hard? A mechanic told me to change the tranny fluid...make sure it has Mercon 5, I did that but still shifts hard/jerks. I am SO tired of the jerking, and don't want to spend the $400 to fix, if the sylanoid isn't the problem. Also, I drove it 5 hours away (10 round trip) and it was fine...fyi for your 2 hour trip.
    Any ideas would help! :sick:
    Thanks!
  • monireemoniree Member Posts: 6
    My 99 sable has a hard shift (but also has OD light on.) I changed the mototr mounts and tranny mounts, but it kept jerking, and I replaced the trans. fluid to make sure Mercon 5, still jerked. Mechanic says its the sylanoid, but I just can't wait to get to the car to unhook the battery like you said. How long should I leave it unhooked?
  • monireemoniree Member Posts: 6
    I can't tell you why it happned, but I can tell you what I think you should do about it... go to the junk yard, get a good used motor, and pay someone to put it in. It should save you @ $3500.
  • derekmcdanderekmcdan Member Posts: 1
    My '92 Ford Taurus has been overheating slightly. I replaced the thermostat with a cooler running thermostat and flushed and filled the radiator. It's still running a little too hot. Does anybody have any suggestions?
  • cquinn_njcquinn_nj Member Posts: 1
    Did unhooking the battery work? I have had the jerking problem for a few months now, and yesterday the o/d light came on for the first time. Thanks.
  • rabodzeyrabodzey Member Posts: 4
    Hi, I think I know something about Taurus overheating so I'll tell you what I think.
    I had my Taurus 96 overheating. It was quite weird: it was overheating in traffic jams and never on a highway or while idling.

    Here are the solutions for you:
    0) you got leaks and coolant leaks out - fix it for ~200$ or do-it-yourself for free. Or just add coolant each week.
    1) termostat may not work properly (if you see that after going up the temperature goes down - you termo is Ok - this is the way it regulates system)
    2) you don't have enough air (if you overheat in traffic jams) this is not necesseraly the reason - it may be that you cooler is not working and fan isn't strong enough to cool everything.
    ANyway - if you think it is fan - UNPLUG the temperature sensor for the fan. That is - there are two sensors attached to the cooling system - one measuring the temperature and the other one is sending a signal to the fan to turn on or off. (check the owner's manual). Now - if you unplug the one that sends signal to fan - the fan will be ON all the time. It will not damage you car, nothing bad - just the fan will be running all the time.
    3a) the last and the worst case scenario - you got something else.
    Try to listen to your engine with open hood. If you hear weird noises from the side of the serpentile belt - you may have problems with one of the pulleys. For example the bearring in the idle pulley is bad and it prevents the proper rotation of the belt --> thus it is not rotating the water pump properly and there is not enough circulation. Solution is to change the pulley (20$ for the part), installation ~1 hr (also change the belt as you have to take it off anyway ~15$ for the part)
    3b) water pump - same thing - change the pump (part 20$ on ebay). installation ~2hr (you can also change the belt)
    3c) WORST case scenario - you got cooling system clogged - go to mechanic and ask him to check pressure and try to flush it.

    I did ALL of these myself and it is damn easy - write me for descriptions. You don't have to spend 500-600 to fix it - it is all within 1-2 hr of work of any person capable of drilling a hole :-)
  • kevo1kevo1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Ford taurus, with about 140,000 miles. My transmission went out in January, and after a long decision on wether to scrap it and get another car i decided to put another trans in. the car is now running great. However, when I drive for several miles, the seat belt light comes on, and then the power steering locks up. Sometimes it will switch back and forth between the light and the power steering, but some times the power steering just goes out. Could this be an electrical problem, or is it something to do with the powering steering pump? I checked the fuse bock in the engine and in the car and they seem okay. That is, if I checked the correct fuses. Also, I noticed the engine shudders when i come to a complete stop when i stop in traffic. it never used to do this before I had this new trans put in. I asked the mechanic and he said it's nothing to worry about. Is that so, or could it be something more serious like the engine mounts? I would appreciate some feedback on this because, I've already put about 1200 into getting the car back on the road, and I would hate to put several hundred more dollars into the car? I would rather trade it in and cut my losses Thanks!
  • lowelowe Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Ford Taurus GL. It has some serious cooling issues.

    One mechanic said it was a blown gasket. I hope not. We are serioulsy flushing the radiator, which is still showing a lot of rust. Just wondering what others have experienced with a bubbling Taurus. Tips sugguested?

    The car bubbles easily and it appears the engine is hot. Yet the temp. guage does not read hot. We have put in three thermostats this week, so don' tthink that's the problem.

    I'm in the the flushing stage for a few more days. Next step would be new radiator, and then blown gasket.

    I've heard of freeze plugs, a bypass kit, heater core hoses, etc.

    -Bob
  • rabodzeyrabodzey Member Posts: 4
    here is the answer: message 1862
    My car is nor reading 'hot' either, but when you shut it down and turn on again - the reading goes up rapidly to the top. The reason is that your engine is not cooled properly or you temperature sensor is broken. You can find this sensor and replace it easily, it is on the right side of the engine, ~2 inch higher than transmission upper surface. It is plugged into the cooling hose.
    If it works properly than your problem is that the fluid is not cooling it enough. I am not sure if this is the case, but it may be so that you have some stuff blocking access to part of the engine and while the other part is not that hot and you reading is good, the overall temperature is high. That is just a guess hovewer.
    Good luck
  • pasquale21pasquale21 Member Posts: 1
    My Brakes are making a little bit of a grinding noise. I am sure it is not the brakes but think it might be the brake booster. Does this sound right or could it be something else? And is this something I need to act on right away?
  • lowelowe Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the response.

    I think the sensor is working, because I did overheat last week, and the thermostat does open.

    I think you are right about the blockage. Question is is where is it?

    I'm also having to add too much water. Don't know if it's circulating or where it is going. Some seeps out of the reservoir, but not as much as I've added.
  • rabodzeyrabodzey Member Posts: 4
    Well, hard to tell...I haven't seen your car.
    I had loss of water and mechanic said it's ~350-400 to fix the leaks.
    What I did was to look carefully and track the leakeges down.
    I had two leakages on the upper part of the engine (under the manifold) and one-two
    on the lower surface. I opened the manifold and there is a metal tube there that had a hole in it.
    Thus the fluid leaked and pressure dropped and coolant could not circulate.
    I did not have time to go to Ford Dealer to replace it and just hooked the hoose from AutoZone (3$)
    over the manifold and it works so far :-)
    Other source - look at water pump region - you may have weak gasket there and it coolant can leak. Water pump is relatively easy to replace (20$).
    If it's a blockage I would suggest going to self car wash , unplugging your coolant hoose from the reservoir and inserting it into the car washer. It has pretty good pressure and will flush your system from whatever you have ;-) After that add new coolant.
  • kizmetkatkizmetkat Member Posts: 1
    :( Here's the story: First off, not my car. My friend backed up with her driver-side door open and didn't see the pole that bent her door ALL the way open. Her friend who works at a body shop replaced the door as a side job. He did an excellent job getting it aligned. When she picked up her car the window was up. As soon as she opened it, it went all the way down and stayed down. The guy can't fix it. She took it to a Ford dealer for a problem with the starter (frayed wire was replaced) and mentioned the window. But she didn't tell them she had just replaced the door because of something about the warranty. They spent an hour on it, then she ran out of money. On her invoice it says the fuse that keeps blowing is the one that supplies power to circuit 523 (going from memory, but I think thats it), the interior light and the battery saver. They replaced the fuse with a circuit breaker and that keeps popping. That's as far as they got. They don't know the door's been replaced so it seems to me the logical place to start is there. There must be a wire or something shorted straight to ground for the CB to pop like that. Should I remove the door panel and inspect all the wiring? What is that black cylinder shaped device located by the door hinges that you see when you open the driver door? There isn't one on the passenger door. When you replace a door does that device go with the door or stay attached to the car?
    Sorry about the lengthy message. This is only my 2nd post so I'm not sure how much to explain. If it's too much info I apologize.
  • vicalavicala Member Posts: 12
    Could someone tell me how difficult it is to
    replace the signal light switch on a 1993 Sable?

    Thanks,
    Vicala
  • mhughesmhughes Member Posts: 1
    Drove the car over 200 miles yesterday. Went to move it within 5 minutes after having parked it at home and car wouldn't shift. Steering wheel mounted shifter is as smooth as butter when going from P to R, N. D and the rest, and doesn't get into gear. Had rebuilt transmission put in close to 2 years ago and never even had a hint of any gear problems since then. Did have a brake light switch problem a few months back where shifter would stay locked in Park but no problems with that since it was fixed. Since I haven't had any trasnmission related issues since I had it replaced, I don't suspect that it could be the trasmission again, but again, what do I know? Turning to the experts and other Taurus owners that might've encountered this problem for advise. Car is solid with 170k miles on it and drives even better than some of the new cars I rent when traveling. Thanks in advance.
  • eatmydust528ieatmydust528i Member Posts: 1
    96 Taurus. Only drivers side window will operate. Other 3 will not operate individually or from drivers control panel. Windows are NOT set to lock. Would this be a fuse? Relay? Motor? Or possibly something in the drivers side multi-window control panel? Car had not operated for about a year. Not sure if it was an existing problem. Car was inherited with this. Any thoughts would be helpful. Especially if I can avoid putting it in the shop by fixing it myself.
  • len_93tauruslen_93taurus Member Posts: 1
    3.0 L. I'm getting a code 452 - VSS signal too low. Symptoms: occasionally the car suddenly downshifts as if I'm trying to pass at full throttle. I did a sweep test on the Throttle Postion Sensor and that seems OK. The speedometer seems stable. I've read that the VSS can be a nightmare to find, let alone replace? I'm also getting a 172: O2 sensor Lean. Would this be the cause of sluggish acceleration? The 02's seem easy to get to but I'm worried about the VSS. It's only $18.00, so Murphy says it's a 3 hour job!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    It's at the business end of the speedometer cable:

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d800c0d69.jpg

    Murphy might say it's a 3 hour job, but the Mitchell Labor Estimator says 1.4 hours.
  • shane2shane2 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2002 Taurus and the trunk was left open in the garage for several days. The 1 year old battery is now completely drained from the trunk light. When I turn the key, there are no warning lights or clicks of any kind.
    Should a jump start from AAA and driving the car around for an hour bring it back or should I have the car towed to the dealer? I've heard that the alternator cannot recharge a fully drained battery and that the engine computers lose settings that the dealer needs to reprogram if the battery is drained for an extended period of time.
  • mdhugmdhug Member Posts: 9
    The problem with this car is that you have a semi-blocked radiator. That explains why it will only get hot under a load and not normal highway travel. Had the same problem in 99 sable changed radiator and fluid. Good as new!
  • newsableownernewsableowner Member Posts: 1
    We just purchased a 1999 Mercury Sable LS Sedan with only 68,000. Since we have been BIG GM fans all our life we have a few concerns with this car that maybe die hard ford people can answer. When we test drove it appeared to have excessive road noise which wasn't in the engine or transmission and since the tires were worn and everything else checked out; we bought it and replaced with four new tires....still have the sound in the front end. We have pulled the wheels and checked wheel bearings/exhaust/ everything we can think of. The way this car was cared for I can't think it is anything too much; however it is rather annoying. I have read/heard that "road noise" is a disadvantage in tauraus and sables. It has the Duratec OH 24 V engine which in all the reviews I have read on the internet says "quiet"---my old chevy seems quieter than this. I have also read where lots of people are either real happy or real disappointed with their sables....and have spent lots of $ on repairs only to have the same problem....I don't want to do that....would like to be one of the "happy owners" of a sable. Any suggestions or recommendations for devoted ford owners out there would sure be appreciated!!!! The closest I can come to a description of the noise is similar to the message in #1811and I couldn't read where anyone had a answer for that one. Thanks
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