Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
The Haynes Repair Manual says it is located in front of the left strut tower, but I can't find it.
Would I have to get under the vehicle to see it?
Thanks,
Alan
at various times.
I thought with an analog voltmeter I might be able to make some sense of it.
Alan
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
Alan
Does this all sound correct? Are Tauruses from the '90s notorious for bad transmissions? (I notice others on the forum have had the solenoid code come back). Is a remanufactured transmission necessary (as opposed to solenoid replacement)? Is the price in line?
this is where I finally found out a little something about my 99 sable.
I have replaced two freeze plugs, water pump, thermostat and have been flushed. I have orange sludge in my radiator still. My heater rarely works. Yesterday the car overheated and I pulled into Autozone and fluid was spilling out...they said head gasket but I'm thinking it is another freeze plug. I'll find out this afternoon. From what I can tell, the sable/taurus has had major cooling system problems for years.... I'm thinking.... get out while (and if) you can. Wish I could - but I owe more than the car is worth...much more.
Good luck and God Bless!
the area of the front seats. The car is a 1993 Sable 3.8 L.
Any ideas others than taking it to a mechanic?
I have checked underneath and can't see any obvious problem.
Thanks,
Alan
Alan
I have neve gotten less than about 19 mpg, and more usually it is in the 22-24 range with my normal suburban commute that is relatively uncongested most of the time.
Alan
I'm really not sure what to do about it. Have you found anything yet?
(Recap...o/d light on, hard shift...)
Thanks in advance for your expressed concern.">
The only thing I have done is a fuel filter replacement about a year ago...didn't do anything!
the battery when replacing the lock cylinder?
Thanks,
Alan
Alan
Alan
Alan
The car is still useful as a commuter car as I have taken care of it over the years, but it isn't worth paying almost a grand to repair.
Thanks
SCM1977
I have changed the hepa filter under the hood cowling and checked for leaks and found nothing. It's now getting coller again and I noticed that same odor today.
Any suggestion? Ford Dealer is no help at all.
Thanks
My question is this--Is it a timing belt or chain? Also--Is the replace interval 60k or 90k like most any other car? And the inevitable question, how much, ballpark, will it cost? Like most other Tauri nearing 20 years old I figure I have a car worth maybe $300, but it has been way too good to let go.
Could it possibly be a different problem? I will note that the temperature gauge indicates that the car is running cold at all times, plus it has no heat. Thermostat, perhaps?
Thanks!
Steve Edge
With a car your age and mileage, it could be any number of problems, like bad fuel pump, plugged fuel filter, some electrical problem in the ignition system, etc, etc.
It probably is not a timing problem, as there is to my knowledge no timing adjustment available, it is all electronic, even in a car this old.
With a stuck open thermostat, you could have fouled spark plugs as well, as the engine is running much too cold for efficient combustion. Could be all kinds of things in the fuel system gummed up as well.
I think you may want to actually break down an spend at least enough on it to get a professional diagnosis, then decide if you want to spend the bucks for repairs.
It is a very high mileage car and could easily become a money pit. You could probably pick up another Taurus 10-15 years newer and with much less miles for not a lot of money, so it likely does not pay to put too much into it.
Thanks,
Alan
Here is what I plan to do to the 86, one part at a time. Checked compression this morning--it is fine.
-thermostat
-new plugs and wires
-EGR valve
-fuel system/intake system cleaning
I am just going to take it step by step. I have two spare engines, so I am not hurting for parts. I can do most of the work myself, so I won't sink anything but time into it, and it IS for the most part, my back up car, so it's not an issue of convenience.
Thanks for the recommendations. I will let you all know how it goes.
Steve Edge
I have a 99 Merc. sable. The OD light flashes on all the time. (There is no button on the gear shift)
I took it to the mechanic. He said bad solenoid and pressure sensor...would that make it shift hard? A second mechanic told me to change the tranny fluid...make sure it has Mercon 5, I did that but still shifts hard/jerks. I am SO tired of the hardshift, and don't want to spend the $400 to fix the solanoid if it won't solve the problem. I changed the motor mounts and tranny mounts, and I put in lucas tranny lube, unhooked the battery (to reset any bad codes)...and YES... still jerking.
DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT"S I SHOULD DO???? PLEASE, PLEASE HELP!!! Reply on edmunds or moniree@yahoo.com
Thanks!
A sticking transmission solenoid or bad sensor, like your first mechanic diagnosed would make sense to me.
If you are sick of the jerking but don't want to spend any money to repair it, you seem to be stuck with no solution. No one is likely to be able to wave their hands and make it go away!
I suppose you could go get a third opinion for little cost, maybe from a Ford dealer shop who should know a bit about the cars and then make a decision.
Any suggestions?
Strab
Mileage not great 18-20 mpg in the city, 20--23 on the highway. Should this be a warranty repair? The dealership says it isn't because I "don't put on enough miles". Since when do warranties have mileage requirements?
jerry
Thanks
1. How do I move the sway bar enough to insert the new link?
2. How tight should I turn the top and bottom bolts?.
3. Should the rubber grommets be lubricated?
4. Only one link is broken. Is it necessary to replace both links?
Thank you
Stabilizer (Sway) Bar Links
Ford Taurus/Sable Repair Guide
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the sway bar (stabilizer bar) link-to-sway bar nuts at each strut assembly by holding the link stud with an 8 mm box wrench while removing the retaining nut with an 18mm open end wrench. Discard the sway bar link nuts.
3. Remove the sway bar link-to-strut nuts and the links
To install:
4. Install the sway bar links to the sway bar and struts. Note the letters TOP LH and TOP RH on each link for correct positioning. Install new nuts. Hold each link stud with an 8 mm box wrench while installing the new retaining nut with an 18mm open end wrench. Tighten the nuts at the strut to 57-75 ft. lbs. (77-103 Nm) and the nuts at the sway bar to 35-46 (47-63 Nm).
Use care not to damage the boot seals on the sway bar links. Do not use power tools for removal or installation.
5. Lower the vehicle.