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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • andersonrickdandersonrickd Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem with my 97 mercury sable, it is an automatic, and it does funny things.The power steering, the windows, the winshield wipers, cut in and out. The blower motor sometimes works, and my car wont shift out of first gear. I have read about the transmission range sensor, and I know that this affects the power steering, the windows, and windshield wipers, but does it affect the blower motor and the gear shifting. Because if not could someone give me some advice on what could be the problem.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    No.
  • markymaypo443markymaypo443 Member Posts: 3
    Have 99 Sable with same problem. In fact, just for yuks, while cruising on level road (at various speeds), threw car into neutral. Tach went sky-high...revving to almost red-line.

    I've gotten wierd looks from many mechanics when I mention this. Worn out brakes very rapidly.

    Had 90 & 94 Taurus, each with over 150k miles...never a problem like this.

    Did you ever find a solution?
  • 99taurus199taurus1 Member Posts: 7
    Hello, Have a 99 taurus that pings like crazy with any ocatane gas other than 92 or 93. With 92 or 93 it even will ping ever so slightly which if I understand it should not do at all. Its the basic vulcan 3.0 engine. My question is has anyone had this problem with a taurus and does anyone know what could be causing it. Is it a typical problem with these vehicles. I do know I have a transmission that needs to be rebuilt or replaced sometime in the near future. Would, for some odd reason, a bad transmission cause an engine to ping somehow? The 2 codes that came up in the transmission are torque converter and a sensor. Mechanic says though it should be rebuilt at this point. car has 105,000 miles. Spark plugs are new, wires are old but i was told they were still good. thanks
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    If the trans problem is causing it to pull away in 2nd gear it will put additional load on the engine and could cause the pinging. Easy to check, start to accelerate from a stop and pull the shifter down to Low position. If yo feel the trans downshift, there's your problem. If ok, have the operation of the knock sensor verified.
  • scribe1of11scribe1of11 Member Posts: 18
    Ha! That response brought tears to my eyes...I'm not sure if I'm laughing or crying. ..Hey, I have a starting problem with my 1996 Mercury Sable; can I discuss it with y'all or should I just shoot it? Problem description is every now and then (like today because I was in a hurry to get someone), I get in the COLD engine car and turn the key and she cranks real good but the motor simply does not start. Where do I begin looking for the bugaboo ??
    :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:

    James H
  • scribe1of11scribe1of11 Member Posts: 18
    I just joined the forum and posted in the wrong place, as a response to a 1999 message. Now I see where to put a new message, so here it is:

    My 1996 Mercury Sable "intermittedly" will not start, for no reason that is obvious to me anyway. I get in the COLD engine car and turn the key and it cranks real good but the motor simply does not start. Where do I begin looking for the bugaboo ?? I know I have some looseness in the ignition switch; could it be that? If I turn the key on but don't crank, I think I can hear the fuel pump coming on; all indications are that the battery is just fine...I have the service manual for the vehicle, but there are so many possibilities listed in the troubleshooting section that I really don't know where to start. If anyone has had a similar experience with the same model, I would appreciate hearing your stories so I can see if there is a solution in there somewhere. Oh yeah, I also checked the emergency fuel pump cutoff switch in the trunk, and the button was already depressed. :cry:
  • scribe1of11scribe1of11 Member Posts: 18
    Alan,
    You probably have a loose ignition lock cylinder. Did you replace it yourself? I have the same exact problem. When I bought the car, used, 8 months ago, I asked the dealer "why does the alarm ring every time I open the driver's side door, even when the key is not in the ignition?" He said that was just the way the alarm system works and I believed him because I had never owned a vehicle with an alarm system (my previous vehicle was an old van). Anyway, after putsing around for a while I discovered that if I jiggled the ignition lock cylinder while the door was open, the alarm bell would stop. Told the dealer about it and he said "ah gee, you've got a loose ignition lock cylinder; too bad the car is now out of warranty (30 days only)" Sometimes my car (1996 mercury sable) will crank but not start and I wonder if it is because of a loose wire in that cylinder. You may just need to dismantle the lock cylinder and put it back in again. I have the Haynes service manual and the instructions for doing that seem simple but I usually end up breaking more than I fix so I've been reluctant to try it so far...I don't think the computer learned anything; you probably just jiggled the cylinder the right way and it stopped alarming, but the problem will start again if you jiggle the cylinder the wrong way on another day (while pulling your keys out).
  • scribe1of11scribe1of11 Member Posts: 18
    I hate to say it, but like the other guy who replied to your post, the hard-shifting transmission problem you describe may be something you just have to live with, and hope it does'nt break a "hard" part that requires someone to overhaul it. I have a 1996 Mercury Sable, and as well as a few other surprise problems that I am posting herewith separately, it also SHIFTS HARD. It would not surprise me if your 99 sable has the same basic tranny. I paid a highly recommended transmission shop $250 to fix the problem and it shifts just as badly now as before. They ran it thru diagnostics and found no bad codes, changed the fluid which was a bit dirty, gasket etc (typical transmission "service" package) but did not repair anything; they said they saw no broken teeth or anything in the fluid which was good news; they put in some kind of special fluid which may have simply been that lucas stuff you mention ($32 just for that one bottle!) and nothing improved. I think spending big bucks on the solanoid may be useless, because I have seen many, many postings about Mercury Sable transmissions having hard shifts problems. Even my next door neighbor traded in her brand new Sable on a Taurus because it kept shifting hard. One think I personally found, is that most of the hard shifts occur when I come to certain road changes like an incline or a corner; I've started giving the car a little bit of gas at certain spots and it seems to get thru them without hard shifting. My logic tells me that must be pressure related (pressure sensor?) but overall I think it must be a engineering design problem, not something that can now be fixed...if someone can prove me wrong, I'll love you forever, because I also am fed up with the hard shifts on top of the other problems I've got with this car.
  • scribe1of11scribe1of11 Member Posts: 18
    Wow! Have you considered an exorcism? My 1996 sable, among other things, also has gone through periods of visibly psychotic sensors. But none of the things you mentioned happen; its a bunch of other symptoms. Perhpas they fixed the 1996 model problems by transferring them elsewhere in the 1997 model... :sick:
  • scribe1of11scribe1of11 Member Posts: 18
    Re: 98 Taurus SE with 3.0 Vulcan V6

    HA HA !! This one I think I may have actually found the SOLUTION to!!

    I have a 96 Sable with 3.0 Vulcan V6...but I think that is irrelevant...the problem, which occurred exactly as you describe, turned out for me to be real simple: I changed the air filter and after a while the computer adjusted air flow mix thru the throttle body. Sounds complicated but this is essentially the modern electronic "carburator". A mechanic told me that the "engine surge" symptom was most likely dirt in the Idle Air Control Valve which controls idle speed. He did'nt have time to work on it that day & told me to come back in 3 days. I then rationalized that maybe the dirt got in that there Idle Air Control from the air intake, which starts at the air filter. I opened the air filter box and found an old dead leaf from last autumn underneath it. I bought a new air filter at walmart and put it in. Then I went on a 3 day trip and still had the excessive rpms when slowing down or even while stopped at red lights (gets really dangerous when it surges forward at a red light)...it felt kind of like in the old days when carburators had butterfly valves that would stick in the closed position thereby causing an over-rich gas to air ratio. But a week later, I suddenly noticed the problem was gone, and I can only assume the new air filter did the trick and my computer had to "learn" for a while, because there is a sensor right in there with the Idle Air control assembly, where the air , clean or dirty flows to from the air filter box. Try a $5 possibility, unless you know for sure the air filter was recently changed.
  • scribe1of11scribe1of11 Member Posts: 18
    I read about this exact same problem somewhere else a few months ago but dont remember what forum it was in (I surf thru a lot of forums looking for answers to my own car problems). I remember the guy described it smelled like his socks after marching 20 miles when he was in the marine corps, or something like that. Anyway, the punchline I believe was that you have mold growing inside your vents. The AC caused it. Dont remember why. Probably some humidity condition interacting with freon filled air flow. You might have to do some serious dismantling to find it. Or move to a land of perpetual dry summers...
  • scribe1of11scribe1of11 Member Posts: 18
    The button in the trunk is the "inertia switch" that he says he checked already and found nothing wrong with. Actually, his problem may be have the same root cause as in my 96 Sable which intermittedly seems gas-starved; the worst possibility is a malfunctioning computer module...
  • scribe1of11scribe1of11 Member Posts: 18
    Was it parked unattended for a whole winter? Water may have seeped in from melting snow. Most likely in the multiple panel; one shorted wire could disconnect power to 3 motors; it happened to me in an older Lebaron. You may have to take apart some door frames to trace all the wires and find the one that got rusted out.
  • scribe1of11scribe1of11 Member Posts: 18
    I have to disagree with badgerfan who suggests you get rid of the old car and buy a newer one. I owned a 1989 Sable which I drove up and down the northern rockies in and out of Idaho and Montana for 250,000 miles and finally had to give it up when the floor rusted out; but the mechanics, especially motor and tranny, just kept on going, like the pink rabbit on TV !! Now I own a 1996 Sable full of electronics and barely anything works right, at 76,000 miles. I would do exactly what you said you plan to do, start with the "minor tuneup" items and see what happens...just dont drive to Bakersfield with it (your old radiator might blow up from heat pressure).
  • 99taurus199taurus1 Member Posts: 7
    You are right about it pulling away in second, sort of. This is the problem in my transmission that i need to get fixed. It doesnt do it all the time and when it does it at all, it only does it after driving the car for about 10 miles allowing everything to be at full temperature. Most of the time it jerks right from first to second right off a stop with out going through first gear. Now the pinging mainly happens on the highway, keeping in mind with 92 or 93 octane gas. Driving in town it doesnt really ping so much, but all i can describe how the engine sounds is slightly diesel like. Not like a truck or anything but its as if the hint of that sound is in there. I've asked others about the possibility of a head gasket leaking and they say that it could be possible but not sure. What do you think of this? thanks
  • themoon77themoon77 Member Posts: 102
    My thoughts exactly. I had the timing chain replaced, and the car runs as good as ever. I also replaced the plug wires (1986 originals), spark plugs, air filter, and cleaned the IAC unit. It is on its second transmission, but original engine. I've always thought the 1G Taurus was the best one. I had a 93 SHO as I mentioned, and it was horrible. This old car isn't "worth" getting rid of, if that makes sense. It costs $3.00 a year in property tax, gets 20-some miles to the gallon, and I only paid 3000 for it in 1992. It has been worth the money I have put into it, and remains so.

    Edge
  • markymaypo443markymaypo443 Member Posts: 3
    It never mattered whether there was a new/old/missing air filter.

    First 55k miles were all turnpike hi-speed cruising. Last 10k, just crawling. Problem was there from day one!

    Once rented an 03 Tortoise for the day...same problem but small engine in that car.

    Scratches in my head are getting deeper!!!
  • joetaurusjoetaurus Member Posts: 1
    Any one have any ideas why my 97 Taurus heater blows only hot air? Seems like the control won't dial back from hot to cool---it's just all hot. The a/c seems to kick on but blows only---you guessed it: hot air. Any clues would be great.

    Two months ago I had the entire cooling system replaced, radiator, hoses and such.
  • lepsyclepsyc Member Posts: 2
    I'm replacing heads on a 1993 Merc Sable 3.8L. For installation of the reman heads, the manual I have says to apply light oil or "sealant, as specified" to the bolts. The problem is the manual does not specify which bolts to use pipe sealant on. Can anyone tell me which bolts (if any) I need sealant on? :confuse:
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Cylinder Head
    Ford Taurus/Sable 1986-1995 Repair Information

    To install:

    14.Lightly oil all bolt threads before installation.
    15. Clean cylinder head, intake manifold, valve rocker arm cover and cylinder head gasket contact surfaces. If cylinder head was removed for a cylinder head gasket replacement, check flatness of cylinder head and block gasket surfaces.
    16. Position the new head gasket(s) onto cylinder block using dowels for alignment. Position cylinder head(s) onto block.
    17. Apply a thin coating of pipe sealant with Teflon® to the threads of the short cylinder head bolts, nearest to the exhaust manifold. Do not apply sealant to the long bolts. Install the cylinder head bolts.
    18. For vehicles through 1994, tighten the cylinder head attaching bolts, in sequence, to the following specifications:
    * Step 1:37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
    * Step 2:45 ft. lbs. (60 Nm)
    * Step 3:52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm)
    * Step 4:59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)
    21. For 1993-95 vehicles, retighten the cylinder head bolts, in sequence, one at a time in the following manner:
    1. Long cylinder head bolts: Loosen the bolts and back them out 2-3 turns. Retighten to 11-18 ft. lbs. (15-25 Nm). Then tighten the bolt an additional 85-95° and go to the next bolt in sequence.
    2. Short cylinder head bolts: Loosen the bolt and back them out 2-3 turns. Retighten to 7-15 ft. lbs. (10-20 Nm). Then tighten the bolt an additional 85-95°.

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d800ccbd9.gif
  • scribe1of11scribe1of11 Member Posts: 18
    II'll be watching for any responses to this myself; that's another problem with my 96 Sable sedan, this hot summer the A/C just started blowing hot air instead of cold. Can't tell if the compressor is on or not and have not had the freon level checked yet...Ithere are so many other things wrong with the car I figured I'd leave this one to next summer. :lemon:
  • scribe1of11scribe1of11 Member Posts: 18
    Good for you. I dont believe in shooting horses just because they're lame either.
    My only problem, in Maryland, would be to pay insurance on a backup car AND a main car; insurance premium nearly doubles in my state for two cars and then of course there is the extra tag renewal fee...
  • scribe1of11scribe1of11 Member Posts: 18
    Hmmm. makes me scratch my head too. Guess I just got lucky with my air filter fix; maybe the evil gremlins just coincidentally decided to go live in someone else's car...but they still left some family behind in other parts of my 96 Sable; it has multiple problems. :confuse:
  • 95sho95sho Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    1995 taurus SHO is making slight clicking or ticking noise just behind the climate control unit or maybe behind the center vents. This noise is present at all times while driving, parked and can be heard with climate control showing OFF. Don't know or can't tell is this noise is present when running heater or A/c but I am sure it is there.

    Also, recently noticed that a/c is not working as well as it should be. Heater works damn good and maybe this is a hint????

    ONly way to make this noise go away is to turn off the ignition. Previous owner mentioned it being some "heater door"

    Could this be something I can fix by removing the entire dashboard??

    Help!!!
  • pharmpharm Member Posts: 1
    I would like to change the antifreeze in my 1999 Sable. I can't seem to find the drain plug. Sorry if this seems like a no-brainer. I have never had trouble finding the drain plug on any of my other vehicles. Detailed instructions would be appreciated. As you probably can tell, I am far from being a mechanic!
  • lepsyclepsyc Member Posts: 2
    Many thanks for the reply! Since no bolts are exposed to coolant (all dead-end bolt holes), I would have though no sealant necessary. Was the source of your description the same as the link for the image (Autozone?).
  • podpod Member Posts: 176
    In my 2000 Sable LS Premium I can still turn on the headlamps by turning the console switch clockwise manually but the automatic sensing function has stopped after four years of faithful service. I suspect a sensor or fusing failure but don't know where to look. Is the sensor the black nickel sized thing on the center top of the dashboard right up against the windshield? Any ideas about how to diagnose this problem and restore the automatic function?
  • alten78alten78 Member Posts: 1
    Recently my cars ABS has been kicking on at low speeds. The ABS light isn't always on but will come on once its been running for bit. I cleaned up the ABS sensors (one was full of metal shavings the other was clean.) but I did not attempt to clean up the wheel that spins behind it, didnt seem too dirty. After cleaning the sensors up I drove it home, roughly 5 miles without any problems, the light stayed on but brakes did not pulse. The next time I drove the car the ABS immediately started pulsing almost worse than they did before, is it possible they could have gotten dirty again so soon or am I looking at a bigger problem?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Yep.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Remove the splash shield from the front of the front sub frame and body.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    To repair it properly you'll need an ABS capable scanner to retrieve any stored trouble codes, then monitor wheel speed sensor inputs to the ECU.
  • anishnabedaddyanishnabedaddy Member Posts: 1
    Just recently got a 92 Taurus, a few problems. 1st off, as I shift into reverse and step on the gas it makes a little thud, my hunch is motor mounts. Also my oil light comes on as I am at a stop light and as i go, it turns off. There is also little "clunks" at the tires as I am going over bumps or divets on the street. Thats it for now... Please help me out...
  • themoon77themoon77 Member Posts: 102
    I had a Mitsubishi Eclipse with a similar problem, and it turned out to be the ECU. Who knows about the SHO though. I had a 93 SHO atx for two years and had no such problem.

    Edge
  • themoon77themoon77 Member Posts: 102
    I would say the "clunk" at the tires points at a problem in the strut assemblies. I have an 89 Camry that does the same thing--sure enough, had it checked out, struts were bad.

    Have you checked your oil level?? Sounds like it may be low. If not, you either have a low oil pressure situation or the oil pressure sensor itself may be bad.

    Edge
  • mberry1mberry1 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchase a 2005 Taurus that is really clean. The front end thumps alot. I took it to a local mechanic and he said that it was normal. What's that mean? :(
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Clunks at front end could be sway bar links need replacing. Not particularly costly to fix.
  • cole_lolcole_lol Member Posts: 1
    hey rabodzey,
    I saw that you had a post about your taurus. Right now mine is over heating it was only here and there with the a/c on and now its like anytime i drive. I thougth it was the thermostat and so i canged it. Still overheats and now it seems like its the water pump. I was told its a pain in the butt to change it out ones self. So i was wondering what it would take to get it changed like any special tools or any if i have to raise or lower the engin (Had to put an alternator in and it was a pain). My taurus is a 1996 3.0L with the dohc. Just looking for suggestions.
    Thanks,
    Cole :cry:
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Simple job with the DOHC engine:

    Ford Taurus/Sable 1996-1999 Repair Guide
    Water Pump, 3.0L DOHC Engine

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the engine cooling system.
    2. Remove the water pump drive belt.
    3. Disconnect the radiator and heater hoses from the water pump.
    4. If equipped, remove the A/C compressor-to-water pump brace.
    5. Unfasten the four nuts securing the water pump to the engine and remove the water pump.

    To install:

    6. Clean the water pump to engine gasket sealing surfaces.
    7. Install the water pump using a new gasket and install the four retaining nuts. Tighten the retaining nuts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
    8. Connect the radiator and heater hoses to the water pump. Make sure the clamps are securely tightened.
    9. If equipped, install the A/C compressor-to-water pump brace. Tighten the brace bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
    10. Remove the water pump drive belt.
    11. Fill the engine cooling system, then connect the negative battery cable.
    12. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature, then check for coolant leaks and proper engine operation.
  • taurus1234taurus1234 Member Posts: 7
    I have a question regarding replacing the power motor and quides on a 1997 Ford Taurus.

    The arm that is connected to the motor has a knuckle that snaps into a plastic guide that slides in a track on the window. I was able to pry the two apart when I disassembled it but can not get the knuckle to snap back into the guide. Is there a trick to this? There was no other way of removing the motor and arm assembly from the window without prying the two apart.

    Thanks in advance.
  • jrejre Member Posts: 6
    My daughter let someone jump start another car with the 96 Taurus and she said they got the jumper cables crossed. She says there was a loud pop from under the fuse box at the front of the car.
    The battery light is on in the dash but the alternator checks good and the car has a new battery installed.
    Now the speedometer does not work, the air does not work and there is no amps getting to the battery from the alternator.
    Everything else appears to work and the car starts and runs good.
    All the fuses in the power distribution box appear to be good.
    Is there a relay in the box or another fuse that I should check?
    Thanks for any help. jre
  • jrejre Member Posts: 6
    I left out one other problem and that was that the radio does not work. Thanks for any help, jre
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Start by looking for a melted fusible link:

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801aff51.gif
  • bls2753bls2753 Member Posts: 12
    I'm looking at buying a 1995 Taurus LX from a private owner. The car has 80,000 miles, and is in excellent condition. The only problem I have is it has the 3.8 engine, with which I have heard and read, is notorious for blowing head gaskets. Since 1995 was the last year for this engine in Taurus', I was curious if Ford ever remedied this problem before the engine was discontinued. Is there a TSB, or other procedure that was addressed to make the engine more reliable. The owner of the vehicle states he has never had a problem with head gaskets going bad. I just hate to purchase this car, and then have to invest in costly engine repairs. And would anyone know what head gasket repairs usually cost on this engine?
  • mwilhite864mwilhite864 Member Posts: 2
    This solution will cost you, but you have a couple freeze plugs within the bell houseing. when you are looking at the engine it will be to the right of your engine and about your starter. right next to the trans, these will all be connected. Her comes the fun, each freeze plug cost $.93, but you have to have your engine pulled to get to the freeze plugs in the bell housing. Sorry. While your at it, you may wish to replace your oil pan, I would say it's rusted out.

    Here is my thought on what happened here. The Water Pump (original) is the fault, Ford in there wonderful saving money and giving themselves those great bounas. The Pump RUSTS out and now you have rust fragments running through engine. This is why you probably had orange looking Anti Freeze. So, it gets to the freeze plugs and they begin to fails, little by little and then something happends. something like a thermostat fails and then you have some pressure and bingo your screwed.

    Your are looking at 8 Hours of labor to pull everything and then the cost of your parts. As I stated replace your oil pan and gaskit, etc.

    Hope this information helps.
  • straight69jackstraight69jack Member Posts: 1
    It is throwing a misfire in cylinder 1-3-5 codes. I am replacing all the plugs and wires, and egr valvue. Is there any thing else I shoudl do while I am at it?
    What had me check the codes is the motor wont shift out of second, could this be the problem or is there something else also.
  • jrejre Member Posts: 6
    You were 100% correct on the fuse link by the power distribution box. The alt. and air now work and the only two things not working are 1. speedometer and 2. the radio. The 5 amp fuse under the dash for the radio was blown and a replacement did not make it work. I can live without the radio but must have the speedometer working with those Alabama troopers sitting along the roadway with radar guns pointing both directions.
    Now I believe every fuse in the system is good. Are there any relays involved in these two items?
    Thank you, I really appreciate your help.
    jre
  • markymaypo443markymaypo443 Member Posts: 3
    Luckily, I only have 2 other problems (both minor annoyances), so I can live with them.

    I'm just sorry that I got rid of my '90 Taurus. It only had 187k when I replaced it with this Sable. I had never had ONE problem with the car. In fact, it was still getting ~30mpg, and I had almost 80k on the last set of tires. Wifey was afraid of me breaking down in the fast lane of NJ Turnpike, so issued sex ultimatum about replacing it!!!
  • wgreenwgreen Member Posts: 17
    Just purchased a 2001 Taurus SES with 69000 miles on it.While test driving prior to purchase heard a clunking noise coming from the suspension.Had a mechanic put the car on a lift and check it. He noted that the sway bar (stabilizer bar?) ends had been replaced,still had the tags hanging on the parts,probably in an attempt to fix the noise.
    He was not positive what was causing the noise but felt it was probably the front struts and quoted a price of appox. $400 to replace the struts and something else attached to or near them,I forget what the name of the part is.He said he wouldn't know for sure until he "got it apart".
    My question is,after doing a search here I have seen this noise mentioned with varying degrees of sucess in fixing it.Just looking for others experience with this problem,I'm willing to part with the money if it will fix the problem but don't want to spend $400 if it is still going to make noise afterwards.
    Also felt a vibration in the steering wheel when applying the brakes at high speed,mechanic said pads looked alright,he said it was probably rotors,which seems to make sense.Was just wondering if this vibration was related to the clunking noise or not.
  • wbaconwbacon Member Posts: 1
    My car is
    1999 Ford Taurus Station Wagon
    24 ohv 3.0 liter engine, 72,000 miles floor mounted automatic transmission shift
    Problem: on an intermittent basis, after driving the car, making a stop or two doing errands before getting home for the day, I get in the car and the starter motor turns the engine over but the engine will not start. This has always happened in warm to hot weather. After sitting for about 30 to ninety minutes the engine starts. I know that it is not the barometric module because the gas mileage is normal (almost 20 miles/gal) . I have had the barometric module fail twice prior to the failure of the barometric module the gas mileage falls to 10 miles/gal or less. I checked the emergency fuel switch no problem, Any ideas?
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