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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • jesse7jesse7 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 02 mercury sable a while ago i heard a squelling noise come form under the dash it went away then the only speed on the controller that worked was high now i got no air coming out of the vents or defrost but it sounds like the motor is still tryin to go any one got any ideas for me
  • sholleransholleran Member Posts: 2
    I had this exact problem last winter with my 98 Taurus. My mechanic said very prone to both plugging and the water pump fins issues. I flushed the heater core well, using Prestone SuperFlush, back flushed with hose. Heater blew very hot for 2-3 weeks then lost strength. Repeated that whole sequence - twice. From then, blew well all last winter. It's lost heat again, about to begin flush. Mechanic wants big moola to replace core, I'm willing to flush until it's fixed or I wash the whole core down the drain.
  • sholleransholleran Member Posts: 2
    If you are really lucky, you have a loose connector & a small drip is coming thru the fire wall. More like, a leak. This will require a core swap -time consuming and therefore either a pain for you or your wallet. You NEED to do this because (1) the coolant will film over the interior glass and blur the vision and (2) it is toxic to breathe and causes brain damage, blindness, unconsciousness, and destroys the liver.

    Crawl around on the floor, see if you can find a damp spot, see where it comes from. Tighten the heater hoses in the engine compartment at the firewall. If you don't find cause, get a professional - pronto.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    do what i did pull the fuse did that a year ago with no pproblems p.s. i got that here ;)
  • thomarwthomarw Member Posts: 1
    I just bought an '86 Taurus with 41000 miles on it and since the car has been sitting outside for so long, it appears to be a money pit. Just spent $650 for front brakes, master cylinder, calipers cut, hoses, replacement of a leaky metal brake line and cleaning of the rear brakes. Now I find one of the transmission lines is leaking and I need a radiator. I am getting discouraged and ready to give up, knowing that I will soon have to replace everything in the rear brakes since most everything is rusty. Some helpful advice is always welcome. I may replace the radiator myself if the weather warms up a little but I have to stop the transmission lines from leaking so the car can be put on the dynomometer to completer the inspection. Any advice on replacing the transmission lines along with the radiator is welcome.
  • fixitfordfixitford Member Posts: 3
    I'm not sure about the 02 sable, but if you own a 2003 Ford Taurus the odds are very good that you already have, or are just about to have your Defrost Blower Motor go out.

    We noticed a puddle of water on the passenger side floor very soon after we bought the car. It turns out that due to a design defect, water can get into the heater system and ends up on the floor. We took the car to the dealer twice (under warranty) to have this addressed. What the dealer didn’t tell us- is that the blower motor and resistor wind up sitting in a puddle of water.

    You don’t need to be an electrical engineer to figure out what happens next. This week the weather turned cold and the blower motor burned out. Back to dealer, 3rd time, charged nearly $300 to replace the blower motor. They told us sorry, not a warranty issue!

    Ford has issued at least 2 TSBs on this, and they know it is a design issue. There hasn’t been a recall so they tell you to get lost.

    If you have a 2003 Taurus, this will probably happen to you. If it already has do us all a favor and file a complaint with the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration. Link below:

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

    You will need your VIN # to complete the process, but aside from that it is easy.

    If enough people complain, they will make Ford issue a recall and correct this under warranty.
  • camerausercamerauser Member Posts: 31
    Did you get the codes in writing? The DPFE valve helps control the EGR and tends to go bad sometimes and cause a check engine light. Not too hard to change for a DIY person. Cost $40-90 for the part. Do a search for DPFE and IAC valves. There are Taurus sites with repair info but this forum prohibits mentioning them.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    There was an extended warranty added by Ford to warranty the DPFE sensor (not valve). If I recall the warranty was to 80K miles. This applied to my 2000 Taurus Duratech, I don't know if it applied to the Vulcan or other model years.

    The reason for the extended warranty was Ford was experiencing premature failures of many of these sensors. Mine hasn't failed yet. I am only at 55K miles, but I kept the notice Ford sent out in case it does fail before 80K.
  • cat5cat5 Member Posts: 2
    I have a Mercury Sable that the check battery light is staying on. I have checked the alternator and it is working. Need help locating possible problem. The car runs good. :P
  • cat5cat5 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Mercury sable v-6 The battery lite stays on after the car is started. We have checked the altenator and it checked out ok. Someone told us that it could be a fusable link but we can not locate where this. Please help :confuse:
  • futureautofutureauto Member Posts: 2
    Ford Taurus 1996 3.0L engine Vin U has the P0340 DTC Camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction. I did all the circuit tesing and it all pointed to getting new PCM but put that in today and it came right back(DTC)going to Vocational school monday off the weekend and will ask him but any ideas????? Help
  • martin06martin06 Member Posts: 1
    Cat,
    I read your post and wondered how you "checked" your alternator?.

    Auto Zone, Advance Auto Parts and others will diagnose it free of charge.
  • don1212don1212 Member Posts: 1
    The pressure sensor on the air conditioner receiver tank, rightin front of the motor next to the radiator) may be the problem. It is about a $25 part which can be replaced without losing coolant. You can do it using a pair of channel locks. To test, unplug the plug on top (clip holds it);take a jumper wire, which could be a cut-off extension cord or anything -there should be either 2 or 4 pins in the plug; take the wire and hold to one pin while touching the others one at a time with the other end and you should hear a clicking sound.That means the sensor is bad.
  • pittfallspittfalls Member Posts: 1
    I am baffled! My car's heater just wont work! Last year a friend gave me the money to replace a leaking and fauly heater core. The heat worked fine for the rest of that winter. I used my ac all summer, and now that it's cold, all I get out of the blower is cold air! The engine does heat up, though slower now (maybe the cold temps?)I replaced the thermostat, and the problem with no heat still exists! I was told I may have a blockage, does this mean a new heater core again? I live on a very small wage, and I have two infant grand children, so I cannot afford a mechanics bill, and so I try to do everything I can do, myself. It is getting rather cold, esp. for the babies, and it is the only car I have. I cannot begin to express that I know how to relace a heater core, so I pray that is not the problem. What else could it be? I have taken as good care of this car as my means will allow, I change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles, and the car seems to run good. The transmission is sluggish in cold weather, my father who is deceased said that fords are notorious for this. Is there anything else I can do or check for, before we must drive the remaider of winter without heat? (the worst is yet to come)I am at a loss, and really dont know what to do! I have been online for hours and days trying to find a solution to this problem,maybe this site will help. Any suggestions I will at least look into and or try, as money will allow. Thank you, Lorie
  • fworthfworth Member Posts: 3
    Help me to create a new post--didn't mean to hi-jack this post but cann't find out how to make new posts????
    Anyway, I'm trying to find out how to replace my 02 sensor on my 98' Ford Taurus Wagon--Anybody?
    Thanks Lore....
  • fworthfworth Member Posts: 3
    O.K. hope this makes a new post..my problem is trying to find out how to replace my 02 sensor on my 98' Ford Taurus Wagon--need to replace the front and back--the car keeps dying at red lights and so on--is this the 02 sensor or is it something new....Thanks Lore
  • fworthfworth Member Posts: 3
    Hi, also i replace both front & back brakes and pads but the ABS light is still on and the car had a loud noise coming from it--could someone help me? Thanks Lore
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Which engine? Which trouble codes were retrieved?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Start having any ABS trouble codes retrieved with an ABS capable scanner.
  • timaratimara Member Posts: 1
    I've been having the same problem with my '96 Taurus. The battery light would blink on occasionally...but this this past Thursday, it stayed on as i was driving to work....when i got off of work it wouldnt start! i had the battery change and it worked fine for about 2 days then the battery drained again. A friend told me it might be the alternator...i dont really know much about cars so what do u guys think? about how much does a new alternator cost? thanks!
  • jwaandjwaand Member Posts: 1
    2002 Mercury Sable: since it's 30,000 mile dealer service the car has needed two new fuel injectors in 2,000 miles. The car came back form it's service leaking transmission fluid because the dealer over-filled the transmission fluid. Then it started miss-firing and running ruff. Now after 2000 miles a second fuel injector has gone bad. I would appreciate any insights, especially if there is any way the service could have contributed to the expensive fuel injector problems. The car is past the 36 month warranty, but only has 30,000 miles. Help! John
  • wmesmithwmesmith Member Posts: 1
    Did you discover the cause of the low oil pressure? I have the same car with the same problem. It is in the dealer with the engine completely disassembled. They cannot find the case and Ford ESP warranty with not do anything until a cause if found.
  • bates3bates3 Member Posts: 4
    Well--It was the DPFE sensor. Had it replaced. I am beyond the warranty. But you were right on the money with solving my problem. Thanks, so much.
  • bates3bates3 Member Posts: 4
    Did you figure out the automatic on/off headlight feature. My 2000 Taurus is doing basically the same. Strangely enough, the parking lights come on when set to automatic but not the headlights. Any clues?
  • timothyftimothyf Member Posts: 40
    Does anyone know where the turn signal relay is located on a 96 LX? I'd like to replace it as sometimes it clicks quickly and the lights don't flash. Other times it works fine. All the bulbs are good. Thanks.
  • jschunkejschunke Member Posts: 13
    Sure your fuel system isn't
    gummed up with something?
  • jschunkejschunke Member Posts: 13
    My attempt to replace the
    thermostat on a 2000 (56k
    mi) Sable wagon was thwarted
    because I couldn't find it
    on the engine. Never worked
    on a Ford before so bear with me.

    What kind of coolant is recommended for this engine,
    original conventional coolant or extended life?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    "My attempt to replace the thermostat on a 2000 (56k mi) Sable wagon was thwarted because I couldn't find it on the engine."

    Which engine, 3.0L, 3.0L DOHC, or 3.4L?

    "What kind of coolant is recommended for this engine, original conventional coolant or extended life?"

    50/50 mixture of conventional ethylene glycol and water.
  • jschunkejschunke Member Posts: 13
    Thank you, alcan. It's the 3.0
    32 valve DOHC.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801af4c0.gif

    1. Drain the coolant until the level of the coolant is below the level of the thermostat.
    2. Raise the vehicle and support it with jackstands.
    3. Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the water inlet connection.
    4. Unfasten the two water inlet connection retaining bolts and remove the water inlet connection.
    5. Remove the O-ring seal and thermostat from the water inlet connection. Inspect the O-ring for damage and replace as necessary.

    To install:

    6. Clean the water inlet connection mating surfaces.
    7. Install the O-ring, thermostat and the water inlet connection.
    8. Install the water inlet connection assembly retainers and tighten them to 71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).
    9. Connect the lower radiator hose to the water inlet connection.
    10. Fill the engine with coolant, start the engine and check for leaks.
    11. Stop the engine and top off the coolant recovery reservoir as necessary.
  • jschunkejschunke Member Posts: 13
    Thanks. So that explains the
    missing thermostat housing.
    It's facing upside down.
  • dgmedmundsdgmedmunds Member Posts: 6
    Parking Brake is off, using C-Clamp to compress for new pads not working--- whats the trick?
  • jschunkejschunke Member Posts: 13
    you may have to turn
    the caliper piston to compress it.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The rear calipers have integral parking brake actuators. Rotate the pistons clockwise to thread them back down the jackscrews. Make sure the boots don't stick to the pistons or they'll tear. A shot of WD40 helps, if needed. Align the notches in the pistons with the tabs on the inboard pads.

    This works ok for occasional use:
    http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=82&rn=503&action=show_detail

    This is the one I use:
    http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=82&rn=926&action=show_detail
  • steveg3steveg3 Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone offer tips on how to replace the cigarette lighter in a 1999 Ford Taurus?
    Is there a way to remove the complete ash try assembly?
  • dgmedmundsdgmedmunds Member Posts: 6
    Thanks jschunke & alcan, pressure + turning caliper compressed it just fine. Did not have access to special tools managed to use a 12" bar clamp and channel locks to start and at the end a pair of needle nose pliers with the tips engaged in the two notches on the caliper surface worked. Had to be very careful not to damage the boot or caliper edge.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Glad to hear you got it sorted out.
  • mlmyersmlmyers Member Posts: 2
    I have been having emissions trouble with my 96 Taurus. I took it into a shop less than a year ago and had it checked. The recommendation was to replace the catalytic converters. In the process they also replaced one of the 4 O2 sensors. Since then the MIL has come back on with the same errors. I have replaced two of the three remaining O2 sensors on the exhaust system. Still I am getting the same errors (low efficiency of catalytic converter, etc.) In my research there are three items that can be affecting the sensors. The air intake temp sensor and the coolant temp sensor. The last item is the fuel vapor purging system in the rear of the car. Has anyone had success or experience with poor emissions and improving the results with replacing any of these sensors?

    Thanks
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Member Posts: 45
    98 taurus v6. This car will start with no problem for a week at a time, and then just decide it doesn't want to play nice. It belongs to my daughter's girlfriend, a college student.I've been over to the house a few times to help get it started and when I turn the key, It starts right up, no problems. If you shut it down, thats when you wont get her to fire up again. Plenty of battery,thats not the problem.She had it towed to the shop where they replaced the starter, and 2 weeks later the same problem.Iknow the starter wasn't bad in the first place, but hey, I'm not a mechanic by trade.Just had it towed to the shop again, and two days later they send it home with no problems found.Again, she will start this car a hundred times in a day,for a week with no problems,go out today to start it and nothing. Just alot of cranking power butno start. Could the ECM be going? maybe a fuel pump? 60 some thousand on her. I'll leave it up to the master mechanics on this forum to help me. Thanks for any help. :)
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Does it crank over and not start, or not crank over at all?
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Member Posts: 45
    Thanks for the quick reply alcan, The car will just crank. No problem with the battery. Plenty of cranking power, just won't start. If it does decide to start, once you shut it down, it wont start again until it sits for a few hours. :(
  • jdiaz2jdiaz2 Member Posts: 16
    My 2000 Duratec wagon just did the same thing. Its been parked a lot this year while we lived out of the country, and when we arrived home last week the engine cranked fine without starting. I couldn't hear a buzzing noise when I turned the ignition on, and the shop confirmed it by replacing the fuel pump after we had the car towed in.

    74K miles and its the first real money we've had to spend on this car. I change the fuel filter every 15K miles, so I know the pump wasn't being overworked due to plugging or anything. Seems like an odd failure to me, considering I have a motorcycle with nearly 200K miles that has its original fuel pump.
  • mtnpastormtnpastor Member Posts: 2
    My mother in law has a 1999 Ford Taurus SE. Whenever we use the turn signal switch, the windshield wipers will cycle a time or two shortly after making the turn. This is very distracting and annoying and could be hazardous. Not to mention hard on the wipers and windshield without the lubrication from washer fluid or rain water. Has anyone else had this problem and if so, what fixed it? Thanks.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    It's usually a defective multi-function switch.
  • mtnpastormtnpastor Member Posts: 2
    I am beginning to think that also. Is the multifunction switch very difficult to replace? Also, is it very expensive?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
  • steelthundrsteelthundr Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced rear brakes (calipers, rotors and pads) on my '98 Taurus. We bled the brakes starting with the RR and ending at the LF. When you're driving around 20mph, the car stops fine, but if you drive fast and have to slam on the brakes, it takes about 15ft for the car to stop. Do you have to bleed the brakes differently compared to the old circa 1970 cars?
  • lovemytauruslovemytaurus Member Posts: 10
    I was driving my '98 taurus for about 20 minutes and didnt realise I forgot to take the parking break off until I got home. When I got out I could smell brakes burning and thats when I realised. At some points I was going 90 km/h. Is this something I should be worried about? Is the parking brake seperate from my normal brakes? Will this affect my normal driving braking.
    Thanks, Dave
  • JWagsJWags Member Posts: 1
    When we close the doors on our 98 Taurus, the warning light for an open door and the overhead light stay on, sometimes for extended periods. Can't seem to isolate it to any one particular door. It is an intermittant problem, but is a pain when it happens at night and the overhead light won't go off. Any ideas or quick fixes? Thanks for any help!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The door switches are built into the latches, and as the grease on them ages it hardens and holds the switches open. Usually the left front. Try spraying a liberal abount of WD40 or equivalent into the latches to free the switches up. Sometimes takes a day or so to work.
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