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Source: the Chilton Manual section 6-48.
Now then, I bought a used 95 Sable two months ago. The radio doesn't work. Which fuse is for the radio or where is something to tell what fuse is where on that panel/block?
I'd like a schematic.
Dane
As I understand the fan's circuit concept, there are only two things that should cause the problem. Obviously the switch is one and the second is the resistor. I have not found this thing yet but intend to look for it tomorrow. The resistor is used to lower the voltage supplied to the fan resulting in a lower speed.
I was told the resistor is (one, two or thee of them??) located in the engine compartment between the horn and the WS wash tank. I could not even find the horn. My Ford CD claims the resistor is located somewhere behind/below the center of the glove compartment. The resistor/s is/are most likely round, maybe ceramic with one common wire and wires provided for each fan speed other than the high speed.
More later--
Foggy
#2443 of 2545 Re: lower ball joints 98 ford taurus [jrolf] by rmncoknme Aug 18, 2006 (2:56 am)
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Replying to: jrolf (Jul 29, 2006 7:35 pm)
I have the Haynes manual; it's not in there.... So when I went to replace mine it was all by sight and feel. Anyway it worked. You'll need a press kit, I hate it when they say "bash it out, then smash the new one in". So, simple things skipped....
Remove the wheel bearing nut, it's about 30mm (you should need a breaker bar). Jack up that side of the car, support on the frame rail where the driveshaft goes through it. Remove wheel. Remove brake pads, caliper, caliper support, disc. Loosen and remove nut on bottom of ball joint. Remove the lower part of the plastic support from the suspension (white thing about a foot long). Remove the end of the steering tie-rod from the steering knuckle (you'll probably need to press it out).
Loosen the nuts/bolts on the lower control arm where it is attached to the frame; if you don't it's really hard to remove the other end from the balljoint stud (my trick to you).... Using a press, push the balljoint out from the control arm, so now it's just held in by being pressed into the steering knuckle.
Get a steel pipe nipple about 2.5" long (actually get several, in 0.5" increments in this area) and 3/4" diameter, thread a cap onto that. Put that over the balljoint so it rests agains the top part of the balljoint that is pressed into the steering knuckle. Now use a press to get it out.
Probably it's necessary to remove the steering knuckle, but at this point it is just by loosening the pinch bolt on the strut. This makes it easier to press in the new balljoint.
For assembly, it's reverse of removal. One trick though. When tightening the nut at the bottom of the balljoint, put the car's weight on the control arm so the friction between the tapered surfaces will stop the balljoint from spinning.
Good luck....
I'm going to go out and have a look at things. My guess it's the resistor, but finding it isn't going to be easy, plus it is 29 degrees and I'll be in snow checking this out :-(
Danford1
I then pulled the radio out and unhooked the fan switch wiring harness. I used a jumper wire in the harness to varify that the fan works on all speeds. It does, so the switch is bad. I left the jumper wire hooked up to the medium speed until I get a new switch.
The switch is only held with one screw and is very eay to change.
Anyone know of a decent place on line to get the switch? I don't live close to any stealerships.
Thanks.
Danford1
I did find the switch on line. I searched for 2003 Taurus heater fan switch in Yahoo. After a few picks, I found a dealer website and found the part. It was $9.92 so I ordered it. The shipping was $6.95 though. I was too lazy to try a dealer in my area so I just paid the shipping and ordered it.
Danford1
I found the manuals such as Haynes to lack the details I search when trying to do repairs. What is somewhat better is a Ford Service & Repair CD-Rom. I do not know if they are actually the same disks used by the dealers but they do have far more info than the repair books.
I purchased several for different cars on EBay for less than $15 each, delivered. You may want to at least look at this avenue for alternate ideas.
Good luck---
Foggy
I used about a 3" piece of wire and stuck it in the wiring connector coming from the cars wiring harness. The black wire is the 12 volt power wire. The other wires are the different fan speeds. Once I found medium speed, I put crimped on spade connectors to my jumper wire and pushed them into the wiring harness and left the fan on medium.
I couldn't stand the noise of the fan on high, so I picked medium...
I ordered the switch so when it comes I can remove the jumper wire and plug in the switch.
Cheers.
Danford1
Has anybody added a RAP module to a similar vehicle? Was the car wired for the RAP??
I just added cruise control, was suprised that all the needed wiring was in place for the upgrade except for the steering wheel's electrical bus along with the shroud that fits under the wheel. I quickly changed the wheel electrical bus along with the shroud. Had to swap the air bag also. My point in mentioning this upgrade is all the wiring was put there by Ford. I would be surprised if the wiring for a RAP module is not there.......... but then again, I don't exactly know where the RAP fits along with what the wiring harness for it looks like.
Thanks for reading this far---
Foggy
I replaced the radiator cap , What is the low pressure model and what is the location of it? I have a 3.0 v6 with
manual controls for fan and temp. When the other heater cores leaked they fogged the inside of the windows all up.They never got the carport wet.
Thanks
Mike
I think I went with 10-15 psi? but not sure. I went with the lowest pressure available.
They usually also come with a red pressure relief toggle on the cap if that helps you spot it. simply replace the regular cap and the whole system runs at a lower pressure, so less prone to leaks.
It does run hotter however in hot weather but has not been a problem in Ohio.
TAHANKS IN ADVANCE
- Dave
One of the two screws for that trim piece is under the door trim.
You could try to get in there with a flexible screwdriver set. You'd have to remove the one panel screw that is on the hinge side of the door.
Then try to pull the top of the panel by the mirror off a little bit to fit in that screwdriver.
IF it's a power mirror you're going to have to bite the bullet and remove the trim panel. It's really not that hard. You just need a trim pad removal tool (less than $10) and a phillips screwdriver. Remove the phillips screws holding in the arm rest and then pop out the Christmas tree fasteners along the edge of the door. Peel back the vapor barrier to disconnect the power connector to the mirror, and pop off the trim piece behind the mirror. Total job is less than an hour.
No need to remove the vapor barrier, the harness is on the outside of it.
Don't forget to remove the 5 screws around the outer perimeter of the door along with the 2 by the door handle.
- You have to remove the door panel to get to the lower screw on the sail panel.
- The connector is just below the sail panel behind the door panel
- The Painted part is an insert, but to warn you, its a PITA to get it off without breaking the clips, if you do break 'em, just stick it back on with 3m double sided tape.
- I don't know anything about the ebay ones
(1) Fan motor only works on High. Plan to trouble-shoot resistor.
(2) Radio is completely dead. Plan to trace wire bundle for possible short or contamination from the leaking cabin filter that took out the Fan Motor resistor. Have a back-up radio if I can't find anything.
(3) Motor surges when a heavy load or foot is put on it. First encountered while CC was on and going up a hill.... scared the heck out of me.... Works fine when using gradual acceleration. Have no plan of attack for this yet. Looking for advice?
The other problems sound familiar from the previous post but I haven't seen any on the surging problem.
I then bought the resistor pack. That fixed the problem.
Now I have a brand new Ford switch I can't take back.
Anyone want to buy it?
I'll sell it for $17.50 with FREE shipping to the USA.
Danford1
3.8
Having drivebelt/alternator/electrical charging problems...
Brought the diSABLEd into Sears auto center for a tension pulley
replacement, as that pulley that was part of the serpentine assembly
disintegrated for mysterious reasons. Got the car back, with a new belt
and tension pulley/arm, (which should automatically adjust the tension, on the belt, right?) and was still having problems getting the alternator to charge the battery. (battery is <6months old, jumping is instantly successful) It would squeal when accelerating and the alternator was real hot to the touch. Went back to Sears and they said it was because of a bad alternator, so I took it home and installed the new (refurbished) alternator myself. The battery is still not being charged while running, and the new alternator still gets real hot and is wearing away my new Sears belt, you can see by the rubber splash pattern that the problem seems to be isolated to the alternator pulley. It still squeals from the alternator pulley when the engine is being revved, also. Is this an isolated electrical ground problem somewhere else, or what gives? I'm all out of ideas, so any help is appreciated.
_________________
I don't know if this is related or not, but my airbag light used to flash becaue there are no longer bags installed and my engine light WAS on due to a DPFE (or some initials like that) sensor that is going bad.....those 2 lights are no longer on.
Still cannot let the fuel cap light go off. Can I disconnect the battery to get rid of the light?
I own a 1997 Mercury Sable Vulcan V6. I've noticed lately that if I bring the car to a complete stop and then turn left as soon as I hit around 20-40Km/h I can hear a howling noise from the front end. If I tap the brakes the sound will dissapear for a small amount of time. Once my speed has gone past 40Km/h the sound goes away. Could this be my wheel bearings?
Can someone help.
How to do it and what to avoid.
Dane
Apparently, power steering pump problems are quite typical for the vehicle. The PS pump makes quite a bit of noise when the steering is on center, but more so when turning from lock to lock. From my experience, it sounds like an aeration and cavitation problem, rather than an actual PS pump failure. I know the Ford shop manual specifically goes through the purging/bleeding procedure thoroughly for this system.
I took it to a good independent shop, and they stated that there's also a screen in the external PS fluid reservoir that can become clogged which can exacerbate the problem. Moreover, the specified PS fluid is Ford-spec MERCON ATF, and I will be willing to bet the previous owner used standard PS fluid to top the system off in past years from the looks of the fluid in the external reservoir.
The shop's first step is to flush the existing fluid, clean the screen in the reservoir, and then refill with ATF, and bleed the system. And, then go from there . . .
Any thoughts on this from anyone more experienced with this on the Sable and Taurus with the non-integrated PS pump/reservoir system would be greatly appreciated.
I never found out the precise fix for the problem because after a collision the car was unfortunately declared a total loss.
Now, every 18,000 or 20,000 miles I can drain off 7 qts and add 7 to refresh the fluid. At 50,000 miles, I'll run 28 qts through it again.
Most people will tell you they only get about 6 qts out of the trans. That is true. BUT, if you read enough info on the Taurus trannies you will find where they say to add 1 qt over the full mark on the dip stick. Don't do this with a rear wheel drive car ! It is OK on the Taurus though :-)>
Danford1