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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • mpaulmpaul Member Posts: 9
    Hey I appreciate all the response...Thanks
    I think I will take your advice Burdawg and
    cut the A/C pipes. I'm not looking forward to this
    but its just getting to be a little to foggy in the car. I will let you know how it goes.
  • mpaulmpaul Member Posts: 9
    Well I started the job and when I realized what I was getting into I chickend out.
    Just to much work to put into such an old car.
    Decided its time to cut my losses on this beater.
    Think I will look around for a older Toyota, at
    least that should be a little more reliable.
    Thanks again for your tips..hope i didn't disappoint anyone.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I think you made a wise choice.
  • craig48craig48 Member Posts: 1
    This is my first use of this chat line, and I hope it solves some of my problems. Last night my 96 Taurus decided that the RPM would not increase past 1500RPM before cutting out and decreasing to idle. This was followed by the service engine light which remains on steady. This condition was followed by intermittent on and off fluctuations of the daytime running lights (mandatory in Canada). It leads me to believe that I have a problem in the emission control area, although the light thing baffles me. However as I was limping my Taurus home, the cutting out of the engine disappeared. Now the only problems I have are the misfire at 4000RPM and the service engine light, not to mention the intermittent daytime running lights. I figure this is an electrical problem but am unfamiliar with the Taurus idiosyncrasies. Can anyone offer any advice.
  • ezaircon4jcezaircon4jc Member Posts: 793
    Might be your TPS i.e. throttle position sensor. Mine went out on my '91 Sable 3.8, and the engine speed was real goofy.
  • bmac6bmac6 Member Posts: 2
    My 96 Taurus, 3.1 liter engine, is dripping oil when the engine is killed. It does not drip when the engine is running. Any suggestions as to what it might be?
  • hooferhoofer Member Posts: 43
    198,000+, bought new in 2/89, and still in daily use today.

    I have maintained it with my system of simple monthly checks and good record keeping called Proper Maintenance (PM).

    You can see pictures of the vehicle inside and out and download my FREE PM checklists at my website: http://www.modular.net/hoofer/

    best of luck
  • upsetterupsetter Member Posts: 5
    I had the same problem with the 3.0 '94 taurus. During rebuilt guys changed one of engine mounts. I bought car in april with leaking converter. It was very annoying to check level all the time so I did rebuilt, fixing #156 mentioned problem too.

    Well then I noticed recently a sudden jerk when gear changes from 2nd to 3rd (20mph), from P to R and from R to OD. And some sound kind of zzzm, when in P,N positions. Other shifts were smoth as usual. I cured it detaching battery for a while so resetting and clearing computer memory. After that tranny wirks like a new. Any body knows what all it means ?
  • nematodenematode Member Posts: 448
    1989 Must have been a good vintage. I have an 89 with 140k. Nothing special has been done to maintain it at all.
    All fluids (brake, transmission, coolant, most everything) have been changed on schedule (the Ford schedule) and routine maintainance (belts, hoses, tune) as called for. Have replaced stereo wich was possessed, water pump, battery, alternator 2 times, alignment and balance 2 times(once free), the A/C (updated to the new coolant) and a few other things.
    The only exception are the oil changes. The first were at 3k intervals by the original owner for the first 100k (almost) and then I got it for FREE. Yup, free!!!! I change the oil every 7500 miles and have had most of my cars crack 180k at which point I usually get rid of them because of other problems (never engine problems) or I just want something never/different. Two times I changed the oil at 4000 miles because I was living it he city for a while but thats it.
    The cars that I have traded in earlier than 180k or so were mostly due to other problems. Never a single engine problem with 7500mile oil changes with regular mineral oil. So I do not believe that the 3k interval extends the life of the engine to any significant degree but thats just my opnion. Either way, the Road Warrior Taurus at 11 years old...
    1) Drives beautifully and still accelerates very well
    2) Has a few sqeeks but rides pretty quietly up to 65mph. It has always has a little shimmy beyond 70mph so I dont go there.
    3) It just passed emissions with flying colors!! So its good for at least 2 more years.
    4) It can get almost 30mpg on the highway at 60mph on 87octane!!!! From Philly to St. Louis I got 28.5mpg this last time at 60mph. AMAZING!!!!!
    5) Does pretty well in the snow on all season rubber

    I think the 1989 and 1990 were great cars. BUT the 91 to 94 seem to have horrible problems and some of the recent ones dont seem to holding up too well either. I do have a salesman friend who has 190k on his 1996 but that ALL highway.

    Anyway, the Taurus is no longer my daily driver and does not pile up miles like it used to but I still maintain it as a second car. I drive it 2 times a week (about 50miles or less).
    Currently the transmission MAY be slipping a tiny bit, its showing some rust because its an outdoor car, and it loses (not burns but seepage) about 1 quart every 6000 miles. My goal is to get 5-7 more years from it but I would happy with 3.
  • upsetterupsetter Member Posts: 5
    So far I had found that it wasn't computer memory glitch (mentioned in post #259). It looks as if some capacitor was charging very slowly several days and then bang - tranny had some problem with turning on clutch - so bumming and hard shifting up to 3rd speed. When I detached battery - capacitor slowly discharged and tranny behaved like new for few days.

    After realizing it I tried last time to switch on everything that can consume electric current in the car while battery was off to discharge this mysteriuos capacitor. And it worked! So no problems since then. Don't have any idea what it might be, don't even know how this clutch works.
  • rmbushrmbush Member Posts: 1
    My '96 Taurus recently starting running hot during traffic stops (Live in Houston quite common) and the temp. gauge starts getting hotter and hotter the longer you sit in the traffic. You can put the car in neutral or park and accelerate up to 2,000 or 2,500 rpm's and the temp gauge got right down. I have changed the thermostat and checked the fluid level all seems to be fine. Also the heater now only works when the engine is running @ 2,000 rpm and above.

    Thought that the only other thing it could be would be the water pump. Any ideas before I change the water pump.

    Thanks for any help you can offer.
    Ron
  • arahfoolarahfool Member Posts: 2
    I have a '94 AL with 78k miles (3.0 engine). Except for the normal tires, brakes and batteries, I have not had to replace anything. I have it serviced regularly, to include new fluid and filter in the transmission at 60k miles.
    Now, with no warning, the transmission will no longer shift into 2nd or 3rd gear. When I accelerate from 1st gear, it goes into neutral and stays there until I slow down and it downshifts back into 1st gear.
    My question is does this indicate a need to rebuild/replace the transmission or could it be something simpler? I know it is difficult if not impossible to 'troubleshoot' a problem over the phone/web but thought I would ask in case someone has had a similar experience.

    Thanks
  • herbeezherbeez Member Posts: 3
    Recently purchased a 96 GL. After having fairly good luck with a 92. Working good so far! When I turn the steering wheel while stopped or at low speeds, I get a lot of moaning and growling! My experience from owning other fords is that the shock tower bearings need lubrication or replacement. Sometimes when the care is warm, I also get some popping noises from the left side, but not consistently. Am I going down the right path here? Are there any reasonable fixes? There must be other owners who have similar growls! I would appreciate any help I can get on this.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    It seems likely that the problem is the transmission. I had a '90 Sable with the 3.0-liter, and at 93K miles and six years, the transmission refused to shift into overdrive (4th gear). I went to 2 different shops and both said the same thing - the transmission would have to be replaced. It cost me about $1600 for a rebuilt transmission.

    By all means though, have it checked out; maybe it won't be as bad as mine was.
  • ezaircon4jcezaircon4jc Member Posts: 793
    My '91 Sable with 173k had the same noise when cold. It started slowly at around 100k. I just put it off and figured I would replace the upper strut mounts when I did the struts. Alas, we traded in the car for a Lincoln LS. Even with the milage, we got $1500 on the trade!
  • runmanrunman Member Posts: 3
    Just purchased a new 2000 LX and am interested in any experiences (good - bad) . Thanks - looking forward to some feedback!
  • sable93sable93 Member Posts: 107
    I posted this in the Sedans - Mercury Sable topic, but I'm going to post it here too because I need all the help I can get for my '97 Taurus GL. Thanks!

    "Hey, has anyone here had a problem with their dome lights and door ajar light staying on after the,car is started and the door is DEFINITELY shut? My car has started this interesting problem just last Sunday. Along with this, when the light is on, I can't lock the doors without the lock popping right
    back to unlocked. It eventually corrects itself, with the light going off, and a quick chime. Hopefully this won't be too expensive to fix. I bought the car for about $9000 (no loan) in May, and since have poured the $3000 into it. I'm not sure the car is worth much more...... I used to like it a lot.. now it is more of a love-hate relationship."
  • riswamiriswami Member Posts: 192
    I have a 97 Taurus L. Had the same problem with the dome light staying on. It is the door switch. I know a head mechanic at one of our local Ford Dealerships. He says this is a common repair. My switch was about $15. The dealer got 2 hours labor, 1 to diagnosis and one to repair. Think it took em 1/2 hour total. Cost me 160 to fix. The mechanics love the job, easy and always under the shop manual recommended time. Think the switch has been redesigned.This is the only repair I've had to do to this car, it has 56k and I bought it with 23k.
  • dan4365dan4365 Member Posts: 5
    Recently drove 2000 interstate highway miles at 75-85mph. Used about 1.75 Qt of Moil 1 oil. This is way too much! No leaks or blue smoke noticed. Anyone else with similar problem? Any solutions? By the way--the car has 69000 miles on it and runs good. Does not seem to use nearly this amount of oil in local around the town driving.
  • johnk324johnk324 Member Posts: 6
    Had the motor mounts replaced two years ago. Had the rear chasis bolts replaced by a recall, last year. When I step on the accelerator (even the slightest bit) there is a clunk noise from the front. My problem started two weeks ago. I checked for loose bolts, mounts and can not find where this is coming from. It is a pretty loud clunk and it sometimes happens on braking. Please help.
  • ezaircon4jcezaircon4jc Member Posts: 793
    dan4365, I have a '96 Sable with the Duratech. Last July we took the car on a 4500 mile vacation (San Diego to Minneapolis). We had about 85k when we left (just under 100k now). Didn't use a drop of oil. It has been changed regularly with syn, every 3-5k. "They" say a quart every 3k is normal, however, none of my Ford engines ever used any (3.0 Vulcan, 3.8. 289, 3.0 Duratech).

    johnk324, I had a '91 Sable with the 3.8L. I had to do the mounts a couple of times. To check the mount, open the hood. Start it up and with your foot on the brake, shift into gear. If you see the engine move (look through the crack between the back of the hood and the cowl), then it is the mounts, probably the front. It isn't too hard to change, although you have to jack up the motor a little. Ford is supposed to have a new, redesigned mount that lasts longer. They are of a fluid filled design.

    Hope this helps you guys, Mike
  • ezaircon4jcezaircon4jc Member Posts: 793
    I had another thought. You could be leaking oil from the filter or the drain plug and the oil is being "sprayed" under the car. It will not collect under the car as the air moving under the car will cause the oil to dissipate. I had this problem once. At my previous oil change, I didn't get the filter screwed on tight enough.
  • sable93sable93 Member Posts: 107
    riswami,

    Thanks. Luckily, it hasn't done it in the last few days. I'm hoping it will stop acting oddly... my tuition payment just went through, and even though $160 usually isn't too much for a car repair, I don't currently have much money. Thanks again!
  • cparker4cparker4 Member Posts: 1
    I consistently get ~ 20 MPG on my 94 Taurus 3.8L.
    Friends with a similar car get 25 or so. This rebuild has only 20K on it and tranny 2K. Normal maintenance done, plugs, filters etc. After reading info on the newer models, it seems a programming upgrade helps those models. What options do I have to increase mileage?
    CAP
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    20 mpg? I'd say just live with it, especially if it's an average or represents stop-and-go commuting.

    My '90 Sable with the 3.0 liter got only in the high teens in city driving and no better than about 29 mpg on long trips. I felt lucky averaging about 22 mpg. (And I drive with a light foot.)
  • ezaircon4jcezaircon4jc Member Posts: 793
    If you live in CA you can thank reformulated gas. The fuel has ~10% less energy than "regular" gas.
  • matto2001matto2001 Member Posts: 6
    I want to know if anyone has experienced this problem. I have a 99 Taurus w/43,000 miles. We bought it used (25K miles). Just about the whole time we have had it, we have had engine knock. It has gotten better by using mid-grade (89 0ctane) fuel but not gone away entirely. Using a bottle of expensive fuel system cleaner seemed to help for a little while, but the knock is still there. I would like to be able to use regular 87 octane gas in this car if possible.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    We had a 1990 Sable with the 3.0 liter, purchased new. For the first 10K miles or so, we were able to use regular with no problems. Then we found we had to go with 89 octane to keep it quiet. For most of the rest of time we had the car, we were not able to go back to 87 (sold last summer with 135K miles).
  • cenzo1cenzo1 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone experienced occassional - about 9 times in the last 3 months- dash items losing power ? After driving about an hour at highway speeds the car was turned off,all was normal, and 5 min. later the car was started and I drove off and found no power to wipers,clock, turn signals,fan,radio,also the ABS light was on.

    The problem would persist until I pulled over and turned the motor off and re-started the engine. Then all appeared normal.

    The last time I experienced the problem - when the car was re-started after an hour drive I noticed a "clunk" in shifting from park to drive and back and forth.It went away when power was restored to dash items.
  • sable93sable93 Member Posts: 107
    Well, after two weeks of no problems, my door sensor finally puked. I couldn't get it to work either like in the past. I had to unplug my battery to keep it from dying. Tomorrow I get to take another trip to the Mercury dealership :o(
  • sable93sable93 Member Posts: 107
    Well, I got my door fixed, I think. Of course, the problem disappeared when I plugged my battery back in, but they made a guess, and decided to replace the driver door sensor. Hopefully this will fix the problem. I'm just about out of money.....
  • dobbs9dobbs9 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 taurus with 48K miles.. Bought it used at about 36K miles. No major problems yet. Recently I observed that the engine was running cold and the coolant had changed color, so took it to the Ford dealer. they recommended changing the water pump, thermostat and a coolant flush and back flush. My concern is that if there is any corrosion in the cooling lines it doesn't go away with this treatment. any ideas / previous experience on this?
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    The loss of power to accessories and instruments is very likely due to a poor connection in the ignition switch. This could also explain the rough shift which you experienced. Everything performs OK after re-starting because you have moved the switch during the re-start. The next time this happens, try jiggling the key/switch while continuing to drive. (You don't need to twist the key too much; just move it a bit.) If this restores power to the accessories, you can be rather sure that's the problem. A replacement switch will solve the problem. I don't know about the Ford switch, but it's possible that lubrication of the switch assembly will allow it to self-position properly on the proper internal contacts - a fix that would cost very little. Good luck.
  • anutanut Member Posts: 1
    I am the owner of my 2nd Ford Taurus, I previously had a 93 and now own a 96. Just yesterday I replaced the oil pan gasket @ the cost of 266.00. I had done it previously with the 93, (twice)...once in 95 and again in 2000.
    Does anyone else have similar problem, is there a way I can maintain this without having the large charge of replacement??Any opionions would be greatly appreciated.....Thanks
  • davidandavidan Member Posts: 1
    I just put $500 deposit for this 2001 Taurus (3.0V6 24V DHOC) a week ago. And I have to buy off in 5days. At first day (14mile), I found its power steering fluid was lower than Min half inch. The dealer chicked it and no leak was found. Then they topped the fluid higher than Max half inch. But 3days later (80mile) I foud the fluid droped down to Midle. The dealer checked again and again no leak was found. They told me there may be air inside, its will be OK. Now the fluid dose not drop down. But I feel steering wheel needs more force to turn. It even needs force to center it after turning.

    Please give me indication about that. Is there any problem with my new car? How to check power steering system is working or not? Thanks!
  • sable93sable93 Member Posts: 107
    Well, my door is working again, but now I'm losing (very quickly) transmission fluid. My transmission was replaced (at my cost) in November. When will the hurting stop? I'm trying to figure out why my '97 Taurus hates me.... and seems to love the dealership so much. These 2 visits per month have GOT to stop.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A power steering leak should be easy for you to check...after you park your car, when it's still warm, slip some newspaper under the steering rack and see if there's any drips on it after a few hours.....most steering fluids are red, but not always. A leak that causes that much drop in your level should be easy to spot. You can also check this next time you get an oil change.
  • dardidardi Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone on Edmonds have information on the class action suit filed a year ago on behalf of Ford owners of vehicles with 3.8L engines. I have a 94 that is now requiring a "THIRD" engine because of blown heads (only 105k miles). Ford will do NOTHING -- which is about what I have been reading on the web about this engine and "FIX OR REPAIR DAILY." I would like any info on the law suit, or I'll have to file myself. Only the latest of too numerous repairs on this car. Anyone who buys a Ford product after all I've read on the web and the tire disaster is making a very unwise decision. This is a company that makes lousy cars and has even worse repair facilities. Please let me know. Thanks.
  • scrapscrap Member Posts: 8
    My parents along with a friend own Ford Taurus' a 99 GL and a 97 SHO. Both complain of a suspension problem or noise driving over simplest terrain (interstate highways), a loud popping noise. Has anyone experienced this problem? And if so, is a cure to be found?
  • 2litl2late2litl2late Member Posts: 4
    My oil pan rusted through on 89 Taurus. Replacement estimate was $700+. I patched the holes with cloth and epoxy, painted it with epoxy paint and drove it for another year: total cost, about $15. Now my 94 needs the pan gasket replaced, have to get estimate. I probably won't buy another Taurus.
  • 2litl2late2litl2late Member Posts: 4
    Got local (upstate NY) estimate for oil pan gasket replacement of $250 (4 hour job). Does this sound like a reasonable price? (Only if I don't want the oil to leak, right?)
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Posting an engine size would be appreciated. In any event:

    Mitchell Mechanical Labor Estimating Guide:
    1987-95
    Four.......2.7
    V6
    3.0L Eng
    V.I.N. U......... 2.4
    V.I.N. Y (SHO)... 2.8
    3.2L Eng......... 2.8
    3.8L Eng......... 2.6

    X your shop's hourly rate, plus the cost of the pan, gaskets, oil, etc. Suggest you find a shop which quotes estimates using Mitchell, Chilton, Alldata, etc, for labor times. And ask to see it.
  • tammycampbell8tammycampbell8 Member Posts: 17
    Our worst nightmare was the service dept in the same town we bought this 97 taurus, our problems began in 98 when you could hear the sound of a ball dropping coming out of the right front of the car.
    I was taking this car to the dealer that I bought it from in 1998 and 1999 complaining of the sound>
    But each time the car went in, it came out with more problems, When I would take it back into them, they just started to tell me they could not hear the sounds that was coming from the front end.
    To make this one short; In 1999 I started a dispute settlement with FORD, but in the mean time of waiting for that to take progress, I drove the taurus to another dealer.
    This Dealer not only heard what I was hearing, but had the car for about 2 weeks repairing the damage caused by the neglect of the other dealers mechanic's.
    Some parts in the front end was loose, I had loose bolts, There is one part, I cant remember the name of it, but it was about to fall off my car.
    this is a list of things done at this time of 2 wk repair. (from what I remember) rack n pinion, oil pan gasket seal, (something I remember last part of the word being a chain), motor mounts seperated, struts, and the freaken door sensors.

    Most of the front end was in bad bad shape, so bad that my front tires tread was completely worn off (even wear).

    My and the dealer conclusion to this, was that either the mechanics was not experienced or it was completely intentional. But I was given the free prem care extended warranty from the dispute settlement, But know its 2001 and that dam car still knows the ford shop better then my own drive way. seau90@hotmail.com
  • tammycampbell8tammycampbell8 Member Posts: 17
    Not only my bad experience with the SHOP, but them freaking DOOR SENSORS are a pain.
    I am constantly having them replaced, not only that but I also had my starter/sealinoid go bad on me. But my front end problems we had still make me mad that FORD would allow a DEALER to do that, and let them go un punished for it.
    This happened in Oklahoma, there is no lemmon law there. My advice buy some where else.
  • tammycampbell8tammycampbell8 Member Posts: 17
    Does anyone have any problems with their alignments on their 96 through 99 model taurus's?
  • tammycampbell8tammycampbell8 Member Posts: 17
    One thing I have learned through my mess with my taurus, that if you are respectful when telling them your problem, they really help. In my case Ford Motor Co helped me. Most of my bad luck was the Dealer that had been repairing my car. It was not Ford's fault, but Ford did work out the problem with us, and paid for the car to be taken to another dealer, where Ford Motor Co, and that dealer treated me like a QUEEN.
    Sometimes you have to take it out of the hands of the dealer, and go directly to FORD themselfs. Unforunately there aren't to many good dealers out there, but I know I found a bad one in Oklahoma.
    My situation I took it directly out of the hands of the Bad Dealer and when to FORD on my problem. As it turned out, either this bad dealers mechanics was un experienced or it was simply intentional. My case in OKlahoma left me where there was no Lemmon law to protect us consumers from dealers like the one I encountered.
  • lmist2lmist2 Member Posts: 2
    I've bought my 97 taurus in 98 and ever since its been down hill.. I had the engine knock for some time its been back to the dealer at least 7 times for that problem. your not to use anything higher than 87 octane in that car... so I've been told other wise you'll load the engine up with carbon and make it worst. This is my 4th ford I've owned and my last. tranny has been replaced only 30k miles, and the new one already slips. wheel bearings, door sensors, on and on. ford kiss my [non-permissible content removed]. job quality one...
  • sable93sable93 Member Posts: 107
    Just out of curiosity, did your Taurus slip between 1st and 2nd gear, and only when the engine was cold. That is what my '97 GL did, but it was getting worse, so I'm sure eventually it would have slipped all the time between 1st and 2nd. I'm hoping that this proves to be a defect with the car that will be covered under a warranty someday like the head gaskets. I'd love to get some of my money back. For some reason, Ford doesn't like to take responsibility until several years and several lawsuits after the problem.
  • goatmangoatman Member Posts: 3
    I suspect I need to replace the fuel filter on my 99 Taurus. Where is it exactly on the car? Also might this be the reason for my Service Engine Soon indicator light to light up on the dash?
  • herbeezherbeez Member Posts: 3
    I can relate to "Scrap" regarding the popping noise in the suspension. Mine sounds like it is on the drivers side. I have taken the wheel off and checked the brakes, steering and stablizer bars and everything feels tight. Popping noise seems more noticeable when the engine/suspension is warm. My steering growls at the same time. I have replaced the steering pump to no avail. I am very suspicious of the rack & pinion for both noises! Anybody have input on this one???
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