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Comments
My 98 Taurus has a very noisy alternator. We need to replace it. The problem is that we've owned Chrysler products for years and hubby can't decide where to begin to get to the alternator. Is there a simple way? Does he go from the top or from underneath? He's changed lots of alternators, but this one has him worried he'll go the wrong way and make more work for himself than needed.
Any advice on where to start would be appreciated!
Julie
thank you
Marsha
If your gas cap is OK then just leave it alone and the lights will eventually go out. It may take a few days but they will go out.
The dealer wanted $100 to "diagnose" the problems. I skipped that and bought a new gas cap at the auto parts store for $16. Since then I haven't had any problems.
And yes you can reset the light by disconnecting the battery. However if there is a real problem with your car the "fault" code will be lost. If you have either a bad gas cap or any other problem then the light will come back on after a battery disconnect.
What makes you think that the head gasket is bad ? Is the car overheating ?? Your problem may be as simple as replacing the thermostat which is pretty easy job.
Also, if one reads the manual first, questions could be answered. It is true that after the gas cap is tightened, that it could take a number of cycles for it to readjust and go off.
I didn't explicitly state in my post that it was the gas cap light that had come on. I thought it was clear from the context. Evidently it wasn't. So to be clear - yes it was the "check engine" light.
Actually it doesn't say "check engine" it's just a picture of a motor.
Do Tauruses have a reputation for bad a/c units (like dodge/chrysler)? How about Trannys? I can't have an inspection because his wife died, so he didn't renew the plates, and is reluctant to let it on the main roads where we could be stoppped. (I believe his story-he is rather old).
Edmunds price for average is 4400 and clean is 5300. He is asking 6500, which is dealer retail for clean. The kelly blue book ranges from 5400 for fair to 6245 for good to 6785 for excellent. THose numbers seem high. Thinking of offering 5,000 (is that insulting to him?) and settling around 5300. Don't know how the bushings will figure into that. Any advice on the reliabilty and price for this car? It seems high to spend to me for the mileage. This is for a 17 year old.
If I have shop look at any car it would probably just be one of those Goodyear type shops that can check the brakes, tires, hoses, belts, a/c, look for leaks and stuff like that. Don't know if they check trannys or not. The "good" shop didn't have any lift time available this week, they were all booked up. I will use them if I can, but probably not on this one as it is about 10 miles away from the car and the man won't go for that.
$6500 is way too high. $4500-$5000 is about right.
I would be reluctant to buy a car I could not test drive.
Carfax report is an excellent idea. Well worth some peace of mind even though so of the information may not tell you everything, but anything is helpful.
I believe by the 2001 model, Ford corrected most of the problems of the redesigned Taurus.
I think I will offer (if we go for it) the 4500 and go no higher than 5000. Thanks for the input!
Looked at yet another car on a used lot and found salt marks on the underside of the hood, lost of stone nicks on hood and it has no ABS and only 4 cyl. This Taurus is a way better car just by looking it over. I am not pleased with the quality of used cars out there. What do these people do to them!!
Making an offer, looking to you guys for the moral support to hold out for a low price....I wish I had some of the old cars I got rid of, they were gems compared to these!
well just from my experience, if the person whose car you are looking at wants $6500 and you are thinking $4500 then there is no way that you two will come to a deal. Some sellers are in fantasyland about what their used car is worth. For those sellers there is no arguing with them, they have made up their mind. So my advice to you is either pay close to what they are asking or move on.
What you need to do is find someone who has been trying to sell their car for 2 or three months with no success. If that car is blocking their driveway they just may be motivated to make a deal.
By the way I drive a 2003 Sable with 81k miles that's in close to perfect shape. If I were to sell it I'd let it go for maybe $4500. So for you to pay $6500 for a 2001 seems way way too high.
If I were to look, I'd bet I could find a 2001 Taurus in good shape for maybe $2500.
There isn't a lot out there that is as obviously well maintained. My kids (turns 17 on Friday!)likes the options-- but is has no leather):
Think he'll go 5500? It may be worth it due to the gas I spend and the eyestrain on the PC id I keep looking. Also, next prospect would need me to pay to inspect.
Finally, if you're still with me, what was an SEL when it was new--he's the second owner, just wondered. My kid is comparing it to a friends Explorer limited and wondering how close the price was new. I only know the Explorer was a good 30k since we had a mountaineer back then.
Have a great day!
Note that they give it a Private Party value of just under $5k...">
2001 Ford Taurus SEL 4dr Sedan (3.0L 6cyl 4A)
Trade-In Private Party Dealer Retail
National Base Price $3,994 $4,993 $5,915
Optional Equipment $0 $0 $0
Color Adjustment
Dark Blue $-16 $-21 $-24
Regional Adjustment
for Zip Code 92604 $21 $26 $31
Mileage Adjustment
84,700 miles $-54 $-54 $-54
Condition Adjustment
Clean $0 $0 $0
Total $3,945 $4,944 $5,868
By the way, one trick that many sellers use is to add money for alloy wheels and a stereo as if they really are Premium wheels and a Premium Stereo which they are not. They are just the stock wheels and stereo for that trim line. Don't fall for that game.
Also for what it's worth, I don't believe that cars in my area sell for what Edmunds says they do. My experience is that Edmunds is accurate for cars up to maybe three years old or so. Beyond that their prices are too high. So judging this car by edmunds I'd say that I would be a buyer at $4500 or so. I'd pass at $5700.
keep looking, that's my advice. Look at 10 or more cars that are equivalent. Look at some Tauruses and also maybe some Grand Prix's and some Regals. You get the idea ... Keep your options open and don't be too specific as to make and model. For a car of this vintage the way that the owner cared for it is much more important than the make.
Per the price of the car new... It doesn't matter, it only matters what the market for the car is now, when it's used.
Per the car not having leather. Well that's a plus in my opinion. For a car of this vintage the leather probably wouldn't look that great by now. The cloth seats seem to age more gracefully than leather. And regardless of the condition of the leather seats sellers always seem to want more money for a car with leather.
I agree that 5700 is too high. Will look some more tomorrow. This one was well cared for (at least the past 3 years) and I see so much junk at the dealerships. I can't get over how some people trash their cars.
Point on leather is valid too, many of them are torn. I have leather in my 06 Murano. Hoping conditioning now and then will help it stay good.
Thanks again for your help.
I did forget to check the keypad for keyless entry. Have the code in the owners manual, but it doesn't work. THe seller said he never used it (he was 2nd owner). The buttons do not light up when I push them like the instruction say.
COuld this be as simple as a fuse? Please give me guidance. I don't want to put $$ into this, but would like to know if there is an easy fix possible.
THis guy has driven the car only 3,000 miles since August. The registration expired in Jan and he barely has driven it due to that. Could it just be dead from sitting? SHould I get a new one? How much for a low end battery? PLEASE tell me you think that is the problem!!
If it is just the battery, it is not a big deal, but it could be something worse. A battery recharge is cheap.
It would have been a good idea to have been firmer about the price since it had 85,000 miles and you did not have have it thoroughly checked out at a mechanic's service center and you knew it had some problems you could see and hear yourself already (suspension noises, keypad etc.).
For $5700, it should have been a cream puff with zero problems.
I appreciate that you are frank with me, just keep giving me guidance. I hope that this works out. I just couldn't keep shopping anymore, my kid loved the car and I was wasting so much time, effort and gas. I figured it was worth the extra just to be done. I hope the old man didn't $^*^$ us! (I might even call him!)
Thanks guys!
The battery may be old and can't hold a charge anymore. If however the battery is not the original equipment (ie. it's an after market battery) then it has already been swapped out and I would suspect that you have another problem.
The only way to be certain is to check the voltage of the (fully charged battery) with a multi-meter. If the battery is any good then it should read just under 12 volts.
If you have a problem with the charging system, then that can be checked with the multi-meter also. When the car is running the voltage (accross the battery terminals) should now read between 12 to 14 volts. If it's lower than that then you probably have a bad alternator.
Sometimes, like when you give someone a jump start and have some sparking, the (electrical) diodes in the alternator get damaged. In that case the battery can slow-short accross the diodes causing the dead battery symptoms you describe. The cure for that is usually a new alternator.
The other potential problem is that you have a slow short somewhere in the car that drains the battery. Those are a real pain to find. You just might need some professional help to solve that problem.
... Used cars, they can save you alot of money. Buy they can be a real pain also.
Keep us posted as to what the problem turned out to be.
Car starts, a/c runs, lights work. RADIO is out. My son will kill me (It's the 6 CD one) because that is his favorite thing. My husband will kill me because I HAD to get THIS car, and then the reason the radio is out is MY fault. (which it actually is).
Can there be an easy fix?
OH YES, the battery light is on on the dash board. That can't be good. I have a friend who is handy. How handy does he have to be? I mean,he is capable, but how much time and effort will I be imposing on him for? Can the radio work again...Maybe a fuse somewhere. PLEASE
You may have damaged your alternator.
You need to check whether or not the car is charging. If the voltage of the car when it is running is 12 volts or less then the car is not charging. If it is not charging then you could be stranded somewhere. Note that a car can run on the battery-only for a few days. But eventually the battery will lose it's charge and the car will not run.
The battery light being on (when the engine is running) is an indication that the car is not charging.
The other possibility is that the alternator was bad ever since you bought it. In that case, putting in a new battery will not change things.
Is there a fuse somewhere that could be my radio problem (could the spark have blown a fuse?)
For the radio, check the fuse panel underneath the dash on the drivers side. I believe that it's below the steering wheel. They put them in the most inconvienent spot that they possibly can !
Cannot figure out which is the radio fuse. Had 2 other people also check the owner's guide and cannot locate it. I understand there may be several of them. ANy tips on the radio??
Cannot figure out which is the radio fuse. Had 2 other people also check the owner's guide and cannot locate it. I understand there may be several of them. ANy tips on the radio??
Cannot figure out which is the radio fuse. Had 2 other people also check the owner's guide and cannot locate it. I understand there may be several of them. ANy tips on the radio??
My owners manual doesn't list the radio on a fuse by itself. The radio may share a fuse with another function. So you'll just have to pull the fuses one by one and look for a blown fuse. For what it's worth I don't believe that the stock radios have a security code (which some cars do) that must be set. The radio on my car doesn't have one.
Keep us posted about future developments with the car.
I finally found one bad one in the box in the engine, but can't get any of the inside ones loose. Going to buy the one fuse and cross my fingers!!!
If I were to guess, the radio related fuses are only inside the passenger compartment. The ones in the engine compartment are related to engine operation.
Battery light is still on, but an alternator (if that is problem) is an easy fix compared to a radio in the SEL (cd changer and electronic climate).
I feel so much better. Thanks for all advice on radio!