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Comments
Friend did a volt check on the battery and it was around like 5 volts, when engine was revved it went up to about 6 or 7. He said my diode was shot, which means new alternator. Since I have the DOHC engine the alt. is hidden down below and may be $$ labor to fix. I hope you mean it's a maxi fuse for the alternator!!!
The problem is not necessarily speeding but just sticking cable and or corroded speedo head. I just pulled my 93 Sable speedo head because Ford Wanted $600 for the head. I found corrosion where the cable ties into the back of the speedo head. My speedometer would work fine sometimes and other times it would start swinging wildly from 0 to 85mph especially on cold mornings. The speedo finally quit qorking so I pulled it out to replace the head and found the corrosion and the resulting broken upper cable half. The upper cable half on my sable had a plastic tip that turned the speedo and it had come off the cable end due to strain caused by corrosion.
Did you mean that the maxi fuse is for the alternator? I think that is what you meant, considering where it is. Is there a good chance that it could have blown and saved the alternator, or could it have blown and still not saved it? My batt did pick up a volt or 2 when revved. Would that happen if this fuse has blown? I'm thinking not, and that the fuse is good and alt. is not.
I am waiting another day so my friend can check it with his volt checker (whatever you call it!). I just don't trust shops, and like to know the problem before I bring it in.
Any more light you can shed on this situation would be great. I keep saying there should be more safeguards, I can't be the only moron. I wonder how many morons got new alternators who only needed new fuses??
Thank you
Sound like a do-it-yourself...but I'm the one who put in my own battery and look where that got me!! (though Hubby could handle). They can't charge much for an empty and fill can they!?
Check my other posts for all the crap that occurred after I put my battery in backwards. Total cost of repairs was $7.00 for 2 fuses. This board really helped me out. The diagnostic alone would have been $50, and who knows if they knew about the fuse. Nobody on my phone calls ever suggested it.
Thanks again for the patience and advice from you guys. Persistance and research paid off!!!
I have read to NOT use chemical flush and been told by some folks just to drain the radiator and refill. If I have them "flush" it with water only, will I run the potential of causing the heater core or anything to go bad? All seems well with the cooling system at this point. I will be having a shop do this.
If I have them just drain the rad. and refill it shouldn't be expensive, won't damage anything else and I could then have it done again in a year or so, which should leave me with decent coolant. Maybe by then I can learn to do it myself! Does doing this make any sense? SOmetimes I really believe in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!" (long ago I had a "friend" do a tune-up, he stripped a cylinder or something and I'd have been better of not having it done!)
Well if you want to get all of that gunk out of the cooling system that has built up over the last 6 or 7 years then a flush is the way to go. If you just want to get some more coolant in there that is a little fresher then drain and fill the raditor.
The reason to change the fluid in the radiator is to stop the engine from rusting away. So the question becomes how should I do this ?
One easy way is to install a back-flush tee in one of the heater hoses and then hook up the garden hose to the tee. That will flush out the system and get rid of everything. That is a really easy thing to do that you can do yourself.
Or if you just want to drain the radiator all you have to do is take out the bolt or loosen the valve at the bottom of the radiator. Doing that will drain the radiator. If you cant find the drain valve/bolt then just disconnect the lower radiator hose.
Also, make sure the car has sat overnight when you do any of this so the engine and the coolant are cold. Working on a hot engine can cause problems and you could burn yourself.
Anybody ever had this noise and know what it is a sign of? Lubing can't hurt can it?
Fords are unreliable because the types of people who buy them don't maintain them. If you want to keep a car running like new, you have ot keep it new. But since these are such cheap cars, no one wants to spend the $$$ on maintaining them, so they fall apart, and people consider them cheap cars, and the circle is complete.
Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years or 24,000 miles - FLUSHED, to prevent corrosion in the brake system. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, and absorbs water.
Coolant should be flushed bi-annually as well. Use a quality coolant recommended by the manufacturer. Mix 50:50 with DISTILLED water (its 99 cents a jug so stop complaining) and use Redline water wetter.
Transmission fluid should be FLUSHED every 3-4 years or 40,000 miles. Many complain here of transmission failures, and I am certain they are related to fluid failure. If trany fluid overheats, it turns brown and loses ALL lubricity. Check the fluid level often and check the COLOR and SMELL, too. If it smells burnt or looks brown, change it with a quality fluid.
Water pumps on many new cars fail at 60,000 miles. If you see a small seepage at the water pump, chances are the seal is shot and coolant is in the bearings. The bearings can seize and leave you stranded when you least expect it. On some cars (like the BMW) the pump wobbles and throws off fan blades, which then puncture the hood (I kid you not). Radiator parts, coolant hoses, belts, and even water pumps, are all fairly cheap. If the car has some higher milage, consider a complete cooling system overhaul, rather than piecemeal replacement.
Others have mentioned that these cars can be expensive to own when used. This is true for any car. If you are not handy with tools, then buy newer cars under warrenty. Leave the used cars to the shadetree mechanics....
With proper preventative maintenance, any car can be made reliable. With no preventative maintenance, it ends up being a game of waiting for the next failure to occur.
FWIW...
While you have a point that maintenance is a good thing you don't quite have the details correct.
For my car (a 2003 model) the coolant is good for 5 years or 150k miles. You are referring to the old type coolant that is generally not used anymore. To change it more often than what is recommended is just a waste of money. Changing it more frequently won't make your car run better or be more reliable.
The transmission fluid change interval is 24k miles not 40k as you suggest. And by the way, they use the Mercon V fluid now which is synthetic and holds up better than previous versions.
And as you know you can change all of the fluids, watch for water pump degradation, and still have many mechanical problems.
So while your suggestions are in the right direction, they will not prevent many expensive repairs.
I have seen used racks going for as low as $85-$125 and new (napa-is it new or reman?)is about $220 plus core charge. All this without upcharge by shop (how much will that be?)
Have steering racks been a problem on these cars (2001 DOHC)? Would a used part be worth it? Do they inspect them? If there is a warranty, does it cover reinstalling it because I hear the labor is fairly high on this job?
I wonder how long we can go if is is a small leak and we are sure to keep an eye on the fluid level? It is performing normally.
Also, I'd like to clean out my Throttle Body, but I'm not sure where it is. Thanks!
silentwill
park. any help on this?
Thanks for your help.
Thanks
What could this be? Please advice soon!! :sick:
How difficult is it to replace the oil pan gasket on a 99 Sable with the 24 valve DOHC engine? Does the engine need to be lifted? I was quoted $600 to replace which seem ridiculous. Is this something I can do? Any advice?
Any ideas to what could be wrong with it?
I can dig through my receipts and find out the cost of this repair (occurred 2-3 years ago).
As for repairing it yourself, you would need a good set of jackstands. I'm sure it's easier to do the repair if the car is on a lift.
Last night it stalled 2 times when he put it into Drive after starting it, the third time he tried it went. Five minutes (his estimate) later it stalled after he stopped at a light. It stalled when he went to go on the green, not while he was sitting still. Today he went out a little bit, and it was fine.
I am thinking maybe the putting it in Reverse and then Drive, from 2 weeks ago, was just a coincidence. Maybe it is not trans related (like that made me think). Possibly that it went, after he put it in reverse first, was a coincidence.
I think the fuel filter is fairly new. This car is new to us, and we don't have complete records. The shop will check it out...but can't take it until Friday. Two weeks ago there were no codes, and no lights came on this time (until the stall, when they all came on).
Just looking for likely culprits. I am hoping for reassurance that it could be a minor thing. What kind of minor things would not send codes?
Any help??
Nothing is easy to reach on this stinking engine.
I will write it down on my list of questions to ask the mechanic. I am always afraid of being taken by the mechanic..I've usually had newer cars with, or just out of warranty. This is my first excursion into a used (too used) car, for my son. I think it may be a costly mistake. :sick:
PRIOR POST
2001 DOHC engine. 2 weeks ago it stalled one night when it was put into drive. It did it a few times. My son said it went after he went into Reverse first, then into drive. It didn't do it again for the past 2 weeks. I was worried about the Reverse part, and thinking trans, but haven't had it checked as it's been fine.
Last night it stalled 2 times when he put it into Drive after starting it, the third time he tried it went. Five minutes (his estimate) later it stalled after he stopped at a light. It stalled when he went to go on the green, not while he was sitting still. Today he went out a little bit, and it was fine.
I am thinking maybe the putting it in Reverse and then Drive, from 2 weeks ago, was just a coincidence. Maybe it is not trans related (like that made me think). Possibly that it went, after he put it in reverse first, was a coincidence.
I think the fuel filter is fairly new. This car is new to us, and we don't have complete records. The shop will check it out...but can't take it until Friday. Two weeks ago there were no codes, and no lights came on this time (until the stall, when they all came on).
Just looking for likely culprits. I am hoping for reassurance that it could be a minor thing. What kind of minor things would not send codes?
Any ideas on the parts markup (for motorcraft, new, reman. etc)? I think I am looking at a rebuilt steering rack.
How about the bodyshop rates? I am considering a new bumper too. I doubt they would attempt a "repair" of my existing.
They road tested it (I assume!) did star test, pid moniter, fuel pressure was 53 psi, fuel trim and baro pids--all ok. I don't know what all that is.
Tested the IAC duty cycle and got 54% which they say is High. They suspect it is beginning to fail. Also suggest a fuel filter.
SO, it the IAC a likely suspect and what should it cost to repair? This is the DOHC, pain in the butt, engine. The part is about $90 and they want $50 labor--1/2 hour.
They claim it looks pretty good otherwise, didn't notice any tranny issues and gave me the cheapest price (out of 3) for a power steering rack!
It can't hurt. It may just be water in your fuel tank.
Mark.
Ford says mine is very old, but the pressure, etc is ok. How do I know when it must be changed?