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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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  • crazyaiden05crazyaiden05 Member Posts: 1
    Get some mass flow air sensor entire tune up, as follows, spark plus wires, coil(s) pcv valve, air filter, cabin air filter, remove egr valve and clean with some parts cleaner. buy new gasket and screen if you have it reatach remove idel air control valve all things for a tune up. as far as the clunking i am having the same issue. if you knew the asnwer to tat let me know
  • sadie11sadie11 Member Posts: 1
    I am having a recurring though not daily problem that drives me crazy. There are times when my idiot lights on the dash will blink on and off, my environmental control unit goes off then on, the clock goes off, back on and if I am playing my stereo, it will go off, sometimes back on or it will just stay off. I have been to the dealership twice, the only thing they fixed was my grounding issues. I have replaced my alt., starter, ignition switch and module and my wiper combination switch. All of these did need to be replaced. Now my car does all of the above but with a new twist, the engine will speed up and not always with the light thing going on. Could I have a ground issue still or do I need to replace my cables on my car? Also, when the car has had enough of all of this, it will refuse to start( all things light up when I turn the key on) and then I will have to disconnect the battery cable for a few minutes, reconnect and it will start just find, run good for a few days or so, then start all over again. I even disconnected the battery, waited 5 mins., reconnected the battery and took it on a 30 mile drive , so the computer could fix itself as my book put it. Can someone out there please help me with this problem? :confuse:
  • sable03ownersable03owner Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with a 2003 sable - mechanics can't find anything wrong. Did you ever find out what the problem was?
  • nh_taurusnh_taurus Member Posts: 2
    Good Morning, All.

    Hopefully, someone can help with this ...

    Recently, I have had problems restarting my 2001 Ford Taurus, after I have been driven it for a while. I first noticed the problem when doing errands around town. I start the car and drive to the first destination or two and car starts / restarts (sometimes a bit sluggishly). Once car seemed to warm up, it became harder to start. When i turn the key, the engine cranks VERY SLOWLY as if the battery is dying/dead. If i try to restart 2 or 3 times, i get no engine cranking noise at all.

    Last week, i went to get gas after driving about a 1/2 hour on the highway. When i went to turn the car back on, NOTHING. If i turn the key 3/4 of the way, the lights come on, the radio comes on, the windows can be put up and down, but when i turn the key to actually start the car, i HEAR NOTHING. The key turns to the end. After sitting about 20 - 30 min. the car did restart.

    The battery was replaced in November when i got the car (as was the air filter, spark plugs, etc). I just had some work done at the dealership (including new gas cap, coolant flush, etc) but have no idea why this is happening.

    Has this happened to anyone? Could it be the starter relay? The starter? Vapor Lock?
  • avneetavneet Member Posts: 3
    bro..
    ii am having the exact same problem with my 2001 taurus se... not able to diagnose...no clue... one thing i noticed... when u turn the key 3/4 ... a noise come... may be the fuel pump.. when it comes.. the car starts.. if not then it doenot.. try noticing it
  • nh_taurusnh_taurus Member Posts: 2
    yeah - when i turn key, lights come on, and i do hear the fuel pump noise (lol - i HOPE that is the fuel pump).

    Unfortunately, i got ready for work yesterday, and the car was DEAD. Fortunately it was in my driveway and not the gas station. AAA came calling and investigated. Tech was 99% sure it was the starter but had to be towed anyway.

    Sure enough, mechanic replaced the starter and now the car runs. All i need to do is repair / replace the other faulty components...

    So, maybe your starter is on the way out? As your symptoms are different than mine, then maybe not...

    thanks for the help and good luck
  • avneetavneet Member Posts: 3
    I am having a strange problem with my car. It smetimes starts ad sometimes doesnot. When i turn the key 3/4(dont crank) the lights come on and a noise come (i guess the fuel pump), the car starts.If this fuel pump noise doesnot come, the car starts momentarily and the then shuts off. After 4-5 attempts its just cranks and doesnot start. It doesnot give any problems after it has started. No other problems at all. I got the fuel pressure from the fuel pump checked by attaching the pressure meter and it was fine. Can anybody please help
  • gdickeygdickey Member Posts: 1
    2000 Taurus Wagon DOHC - just went over 200k miles. Over the past year, I have had problems with the serpentine belt jumping off. Every time that happens (sometimes within 30 - 60 days of a new belt), the belt has a lengthwise split or cut about 6 inches long. I have thought it jumped off / up on one of the pulley wheels and split or cut it on one of the ridges before it came off completely.

    NOW, I went to put a new belt on and the tool (15 mm socket) will not pull the tensioner to release tension. The instructions indicate pulling CCW to release tension, but that actually loosens the tension wheel so that it seems to be ready to come off. When I turn CW, the bolt tightens up some, but never seems to become completely tight and still does not pull the tension wheel forward to release tension and allow me to put on the belt.

    Am I missing something? Is there a nut inside the wheel that has come off? Is the tensioner shot? Did I turn it the wrong way? CW or CCW? The Haynes Manual I have does not seem to cover this situation.
  • angelblue23angelblue23 Member Posts: 1
    imy x wife owns a 95 sable.there is a vacum line missing on the left side of the mass flow. where does it connect at. :confuse:
  • taurusidiottaurusidiot Member Posts: 5
    I have been studying what to do about my '96 Taurus 3.0 OHV concerning it not starting. I have taken it to a 'not so hot' mechanic here and they were total idiots about what is wrong. The engine was replaced with a brand new one in 2001. Not the wiring. It now has approx. 35,000 miles on it. It quit running, at 65mph, like it was running out of gas (full tank). I have checked for gasoline pressure at the injector bank, LOTS of pressure. Didn't check injectors themselves but when I pulled every sp. plug to check for spark (all had spark), they were wet and smelled of gasoline. So I assume (?) they were getting gas. The plugs (Rapid Fire) all looked very normal with no extraordinary buildup with only normal wear etc. 8000 miles on this set.
    The mechanic did a compression check without and then with oil in the cyls. Same readings 230, 245, 160 and 175. He did nothing else except put new spark plugs in. He said the engine was shot!! Frankly, I just don't believe this as there could be too many other things that could give low compressions.
    This engine has run and started perfectly (excepting a bad VSS which I replaced) since I got it in 2002.
    I would like to do more tests on it when I get it home,
    One being a Leakdown test. Only problem is I have never done one. Can anyone explain how this is done and can I do it or do I have to take it to another shop?
    Should I rule out a bad or jumped timing chain?
    What other tests should I do concerning this low compression?
    Since it won't start, all the tests so far have had to be done only while cranking the engine with the starter. Unfortunately the OBDII does not work so I have to check things the old fashioned way.
    If you can, please HELP!
    Thanks
  • freeride2142freeride2142 Member Posts: 1
    I am a little late getting in, but my wifes car has the same smell. We had to change out the cabin air filter a couple of times. This seemed to get rid of the smell. There is something about that year of Taurus. The cabin air filter was put in a bad spot or something, but because of this it has to be changed out more often than usual. It took me a while to figure this out. They do not tell you this when you buy one.
  • dslok8ddslok8d Member Posts: 1
    any answer on the power seat issue I have the same problem on my 99
  • terryg47terryg47 Member Posts: 1
    I am having trouble locating the transmission speed sensor on my 99 taurus 6cyl. can anybody please help
  • 1978transam1978transam Member Posts: 16
    I realize this is in response to an old post, but did you ever solve this problem? I've taken the same steps as described and observe the same results.
  • indy4192indy4192 Member Posts: 1
    I have a low compression in my no.1 cylinder along with a misfire. To repair the engine isn't worth the cost. Can I unplug that fuel injector so that the unfired fuel won't ruin the cat converter? If I do unplug it will the engine then send more fuel to the other injectors to make up for it sensing the no. 1 cylinder not getting anything?
  • jack259jack259 Member Posts: 1
    I did exactly as you described & it worked. I can't thank you enough; I was borderline psychotic trying to get that link to fit (pushing, pulling, rocking the whole dam car trying to move that sway bar).

    Thanks.
  • tkem12tkem12 Member Posts: 5
    I need to get some info on how to change it out. Looks like it could be
    a hard one
  • gary5639gary5639 Member Posts: 1
    I've done this and it's pretty simple. The computer module is part of the fuse panel. It's located above the drivers left foot. The fuse panel is actually 3 circuit boards with the fuses sticking out. On the side of the white plastic portion is a 5 digit number. That is the code. If the fuse panel/computer is replace you need to reprogram the key fobs and the door panel.

    I hope this helps, if you have questions let me know.

    Gary, from Houston
  • halen262halen262 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Ford Taurus. The Heater won't run at all and I do have power in the main frame of the unit in the car. The lights come on in the heater, but I don't get heat or AC.

    Also, the rear driver door won't go down? Does anyone know if this is an electrical problem with a fuse, and which fuse to change? Are these issue related? Man it's getting cold here in Idaho, and I would rather fix this myself than drop $$$.

    Thank you,

    Halen 262
  • georgejunggeorgejung Member Posts: 8
    2003 Taurus, intermittently has a dead electrical system. Nothing has juice - the remote door opener won't work, there is no chime, radio is dead etc., and the engine does not turn over; If I jump start the car, it's fine - for awhile. I've had it checked out, but as no one has seen it when it's actually 'dead', no idea what the problem is. New battery, starter. Today, my daughter called - same complaint - but she noted there seemed to be a 'clicking' in the car - though she couldn't isolate the source. Again, it started with a jump, and now seems fine.

    Any geniuses out there know what's up with this car? I'd appreciate it.
  • bigdan1bigdan1 Member Posts: 23
    The gas pedal sticks on my 2001 Sable. I step on the gas, get up to any speed, take my foot off gas pedal, and car stays at that speed. I have to hit brakes to slow down car or stop car. Cruise control is not on. Biggest deal is that problem is intermittent. Some days car is OK. Some days pedal sticks. With engine off, linkage seems OK when I move it by hand. Anybody else ever have this problem and how did you fix it? Thanks.
  • mr_almr_al Member Posts: 9
    No, I have been doing the "manual" way.... I am thinking of buying a new light switch.

    I did at one time disconnect every fuse block and all from under the dash (busted a few knuckles in process,

    Reconnected everything again, and EVERYTHING worked great for about a week, then the same stuff.

    Everything comes on but the headlights. I narrowed it down to either the switch or a relay. I bought the relay at dealer (not expensive), but have NO Idea where it is, and my manuals weren't too helpful.

    Sure would be nice. Car is working great otherwise. :confuse:
  • mr_almr_al Member Posts: 9
    I know there was a recall on these sometime ago if you had the sliding pedals. Not sure if that would be the case.

    never a problem on mine. Maybe this part was made by Toyota.

    I do soemtimes find my foot getting stuck between teh gas and break petal. (a bit weird)...

    Be safe. get it checked out.
  • krbestkrbest Member Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    I have two 2003 Taurus. Both had water leaking into the trunk. I traced my problem and found the culprit to be the five black plastic fasteners which attach the bumper to the car. The are plug shaped with a philips head plastic screw in them. These plugs go through the metal right into the trunk cavity. You have to take off the black plastic cover that surrounds the opening for the trunck latch. This plate goes across the opening of the trunk and provides a trimmed finish. Takes this off and you will see the ends of these five, black plastic plugs sticking though the metal into the trunk area. The water runs along the outside on the top of the bumper and wickes its way underneath the heads of these plugs. These plugs are not providing a water tight seal and the water seeps in. I took these plugs out, coated them with clear silicone sealant, pushed them back into place and let silicone cure. I haven't had any water leaking into the runk since.
    I know others have said it's the seal around the trunk but I don't think so. There doesn't appear to be any logical way for the water to jump over the seal and into the trunk.
  • nasimnasim Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2001 Taurus for close to a year and a half. I changed all sensors, had a diagnostic check at the dealer that showed nothing, and still it is doing it. It happens only when the weather outside is hot and I have no problem in the winter when it is cold outside. The dealer said it could be the fuel pump but if it continues after replacing the fuel pump, then it's not the fuel pump. No one has a clear cut answer dor me on what it could be. When I turn the car off after driving it, I just noticed that my temperature gauge stays in the middle. Does this sound familiar to anyone else? Any suggestions and/or help? Every suggestion is appreciated. Thank you. I hope you are able to figure your problem out, too.
  • cal1975cal1975 Member Posts: 1
    Same thing on mine, no windows, radio, brake lights and stuck in park anybody have any ideas. Checked all fuses and they where all good.
  • dochaleydochaley Member Posts: 11
    2004 SES came up with a pause or flat spot in the accelerator. Kinda bogged down from time to time.

    Replaced all catalytic converters because the mechanic felt it was back pressure. WRONG
    Replaced the fuel pressure regulator because the mechanic felt it was bad. WRONG
    New plugs. WRONG
    New fuel filter. WRONG
    Yadda Yadda Yadda.

    At times in a parking lot the RPM's will drop to 400, and the car will shake.
    On the highway, no particular speed, with or without cruise control, it'll seem as if you've let off the accelerator and sometimes the accelerator pedal will vibrate.
    Some times the engine RPM's will go up to 2800 to 3000 then drop back down, pushing the accelerator does nothing. Then suddenly it'll just reengage and take off. It's actually stalled once in stop and go traffic. Started up but took about 10 seconds.

    I get 28 mpg on the highway and have gotten as much as 34 driving from Red River, NM to Amarillo (where I refuel), so I'm really wanting to keep this but not if it's gonna get me stranded.

    No codes come up.

    Is there a GURU out there that can tell me what's wrong, what to check next or ?????

    Someone said it may be a vacuum leak but I'm not certain if this can be checked. If it's an intermittent leak how can it be found, if it is a vacuum leak.

    I'd pay for the right advise, no kidding.

    Doc
    stephenhaley@att.net if you want to send me any info.
  • dochaleydochaley Member Posts: 11
    The 3 button Trip Center on my Taurus has stopped doing anything except doing systems check and showing how many miles to empty plus total miles on the odometer.
    Is this a module problem or ?????

    If it needs to be replaced does the 3 button assembly pop out? pry out? or ?
    OR
    Is there a module somewhere else that needs to be checked?

    I really enjoyed this added feature and would like to get it working right or replace it to continue using it.

    Thanks
    Doc Haley
    stephenhaley@att.net if you want to send me any info.
  • dochaleydochaley Member Posts: 11
  • johninvajohninva Member Posts: 2
  • johninvajohninva Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 sable, and while checking under hood today, I see a vac line broken/worn out. I am having trouble finding where it leads to. The line comes out of the firewall behind the strut mount on pass. side of engine compartment. It is anchored to the strut mount bolt, and goes to.....??
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • propfoulerpropfouler Member Posts: 1
    Have a very strange situation with my Taurus. Recently, the engine started to stall when I engage either power lock or automatic windows. When engine stalls the illuminating lights inside go on with the doors closed???? When I turn the ignition switch off and open the door some strange buzzing noise comes from the driver side door. While this buzzing is going, if I try to start the engine starter spins but engine doesn’t start. Then after closing and re-opening the door and randomly pushing buttons that buzzing noise stops and I am able to start the car again without problems. Tried to disconnect the central lock and power windows by pulling the fuses, but was unsuccessful – was either pulling the wrong fuses or it didn’t have an effect (diagram stated to pull fuses 6 and/or 8).
    Your help in resolving the issue is appreciated.
  • kwarmackkwarmack Member Posts: 1
    My RPM's drop when slowing or in stop and go traffic. The car has turned off on me several times and I have no problem restarting. When driving on the hwy I have no issues until I have to slow. I just recently changed the PCV valve, the plugs, the wires, the air filter, and have used the intake cleaner. My gas pedal seems like it is harder to push while driving. Does anyone know what type of issues that I am facing and can you help me out here?

    Thanks
  • motojedimotojedi Member Posts: 1
    Hi,i worked on a friends 2000 ford taurus today to try and fix an issue with no heat.The water pump is new,i put a new thermostat in but still no heat.The engine operates with normal range,i know the blend door is operating but still no heat.I did notice the inlet to the heater core is hot but outlet is cold.I have read on here that this is quite common.So i guess a backflush on the heater core is next on my list.Any suggestions on the easiest way to do this?Just trying to help a friend out,any input would be helpful.Thanks
  • warhorse1warhorse1 Member Posts: 14
    Had the same problem normal back flush wouldn't work, this is what I did, aqquied some long matching hose enough to hang over the side of the vehicle connect both lengths to the core direct, bit of a struggle then I used a pressure washer first one way then the other once the muck starts to move just keep at it till it comes out freely in either direction, my heater now is unbelievelably hot not, not enough presure from a garden hose to do it.
  • cdcdarbcdcdarb Member Posts: 4
  • cdcdarbcdcdarb Member Posts: 4
    camshaft synchronizer ford taurus

    I was wondering why a dealership or other repair shops are asking $300.00 + to replace a camshaft synchronizer for a ford taurus , it looks fairly easy to get to and only 2 screws , other than setting the timing after installing it , the part is only a $60.00 part
  • zukpprzukppr Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem with my 98 Taurus... After thermostat was replaced it continued blowing nothing but cold air. Had a mechanic come to the house and he totally flushed out the heater core. It's worked great ever since. Good Luck!
  • danford1danford1 Member Posts: 10
    2003 Taurus 3.0L with about 85,000 miles ,engine surges. Does Not do it all the time, but lately more often. While cruising along perhaps 25 mph the car will surge forward for a split second.
    I've noticed it faster than about 25 mph (around 40 mph) but you can feel it more going slower.
    What could cause this?

    Danford1
  • 95taurusguy95taurusguy Member Posts: 1
    the PCV valve is actually not under the throttle body. It is on the passenger side of the engine right on top. There is a vacuum line that runs across the front side of the engine and that is where it runs into the throttle body. Hope it helps.
  • nomoreford2nomoreford2 Member Posts: 50
    I have a 2000 Taurus with a 24V DOHC and got a P0171 & P0174 error codes about running lean. The car runs rough cold - rpm goes 2,00 then down to 500 then stalls out - 3 or 4 times im 10 minutes. after it gets warm its ok and runs 700-800 rpm when idle. I cleaned EGR value, replaced PCV, changed air filter, I checked for vacum leaks - didn't notice any and still getting code. Previously i got a 1506 Idle over speed error and replaced Idle Air control and it came back but went away with the PCV replacement, but now i will get the P171 P174 sometimes. Any ideas to what maybe causing this. This problem seemed to get worse when firestone put 5W20 oil in the car on the last oil change instead of the usual 5w30 the car has always used.
  • mattyg79mattyg79 Member Posts: 1
    edited January 2011
    I have a 2000 Taurus with 101,000 miles on it and the power steering went. I replaced the pump and it still has no power steering! It’s a little better turning to the right but not much. I don’t think it’s the rack, the wheel isn’t binding up or sloppy it’s just a complete upper body workout to turn it. If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it.
  • cameronkargercameronkarger Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 2001 Mercury Sable LS. It started back about 5 months ago. I would start the car with no problems. The car would go thru about a 2 min cycle on a higher idle and then when it was over the rpms would drop down to 500 like yours does. It would act like there was no gas and jerk or lunge causing lights to dim and brighten because the engine was surging on and off. Finally it seemed like the computer figured out a problem and would increase gas and the rpms would go back up. The check engine light didn't appear for a couple of weeks. When it did it showed the infamous P0171 & P0174 bank 1 and 2 lean. I replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor and it did nothing. Then I saw a posting on another site about the PCV valve elbow where it goes into the intake manifold. The elbow is smooth rubber and collapses causing vacuum problems. Sure enough mine was totally collapsed. The part was only 25.00 at the Ford Dealership and I had it put on. It actually seemed better for a while. I thought that would be the end of it. But about 1 week after the codes reappeared and the same symptoms as well. All this time since it started back 5 months ago I've had horrible gas mileage. I wish there was a way to check the whole vacuum system for problems because that is where seems to still be after reading tons of postings. I'm not sure if it is in the intake manifold gasket itself or some vacuum line. I'm frustrated and very leery of replacing 02 sensors because it seems unlikely that they are both bad at the same time. Let me know if you find anything out. Thanks
  • nomoreford2nomoreford2 Member Posts: 50
    I bought some electronic cleaner and sprayed the Mass Air Flow sensor down, and the connections to that and the throttle position sensor and the rough idle went down big time, but is still slightly there when cold. If your still getting that code, you can try to spray your EGR and Idle air control with some air intake cleaner. If that doesnt fix it the only only things could image would be the DPFE sensor or fuel pressure regulator and if that doesnt fix it its time for a trade in.
  • cameronkargercameronkarger Member Posts: 2
    After posting my problem on another site I took their advice and took it to a repair garage that had a smoke machine. They found that the intake manifold gasket was leaking causing too much air being sucked in. If the two codes P0171 and P0174 (bank #1 and #2 Lean) then it most definitely a vacuum problem. I actually had two vacuum problems. The pcv elbow was collapsed and the intake manifold gasket needed replaced. I had them replace the other vacuum lines when they had it apart because my car has 146,000 miles and the rubber is old. Now my car runs awesome with no lean codes. No more choking out when engine is cold. After the initial idle when the tach drops down I am no longer getting a bad fuel to air mixture that used to make the car lunge and the lights flicker because there wasn't enough fuel to make up the difference of the air intake and it was all after the Mass Air Sensor. Hope this helps someone.
  • jim2345jim2345 Member Posts: 45
    My 2003 Sable scared the crap out of my dog (literally). When this happened I fumbled around for a while trying to figure out what to do. I stumbled onto the idea that the key fob has a panic button - so I pressed that - nothing. I pressed it again and mercifully the racket stopped. Did I mention I was in my garage at the time? I think I may be going deaf, my ears are still ringing. After cleaning up the dog mess I experimented a little and found that this seems to happen no matter which door I open - but fortunately I can stop it right away by two presses of the panic button.

    We have been having a very cold and snowy winter so I'm suspecting some ice (or ice melt) may be causing the problem. My garage is unheated and last time I checked, the thermometer was at 12 F. Any suggestions what to look at or do next? (short of driving to the dealer).

    Thanks.
  • brownbootbrownboot Member Posts: 3
    2001 Ford Taurus check eng light on with a DTC P0402.This happens about every 2.5 years and I replace the Backpressure sensor and that will take care of it. Is this normal on this year? We brought it new and now has 58,000 + miles (wife car) I have had 2 other Taurus a 1996 with over 200,000 miles and a 2003 with 170,000 miles and have never replace that part. Purchase the part at Advance Auto Parts should I get Ford parts?
    Brownboot
  • lucaselucase Member Posts: 1
    It's your battery terminals. I had the same problem. Change those and you will have no problem.
  • eftianeftian Member Posts: 1
    These posts were helpful thx

    What I did was to jack up the back as high as I could with the floor jack with the tire still on then I put some 2x8 scrap wood 3 pcs stacked up under the tire so the right rear would settle securely, then lowered the jack and with about 6" of wood only under one tire the spring was compressed enough to easely pop the old one off and plenty of room to work with the new one.
  • bubster1212bubster1212 Member Posts: 1
    My accelerator is sticking on my 2004 Taurus. Sometimes I'll let my foot off the gas and the RPMs will still be over 2000. It really worries me at times, especially when I'm in traffic or at a stop light. It doesn't do it all the time, but has been happening more often. Any thoughts?
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