Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

timing belt replacement?

13

Comments

  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Anyone have a good concept of when to replace a timing belt when the mileage is low. I have a 97 with only 12,000 miles on it, think the belt will last 6 years before it starts to dry rot??? There never seems to be a mention of age, just mileage on these belts.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I don't think time is all that important. My '80 Volvo 240's belt was last changed ten years ago (68,000 miles ago).
  • viktoria_rviktoria_r Member Posts: 103
    I have a 95 Chevy Monte Carlo LS (3.1 V-6)that was a 'demo'. I bought it from an out-of-town dealer. Only later I realized that the Owner manual was missing. I changed serpentine belt once (at about 40K), because the tech said it was not tight enough. The car has 82K mi on it now. does anyone know if I should change the belt? What is the criteria that will tell me when to do it? (mileage, interval, etc). Thanks!
  • poisondartfrogpoisondartfrog Member Posts: 102
    It's a cam chain, not a belt, on that model engine (3.1). The 3.4 DOHC V-6, which was optional in some Monte Carlo LS's and standard in all Z34 models, has a timing belt which requires replacement every 60K miles.
  • viktoria_rviktoria_r Member Posts: 103
    are you saying it does not need to be replaced every 60k or so miles?
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    Honda recommends replacing the timing belt at least every 6 years. Don't know about other mfgs.
  • fredpuffballfredpuffball Member Posts: 1
    What's making my 73,000 miles so far honda accord ex 1992 squeal after it's been run 5 miles??? It'll do it in park first (like when waiting at a drive up window) then it'll do it when shifting out of park and into drive. The really weird thing is - it only'l do it after it's warmed up / so far nothing else has happend yet. Like sometimes I'll drive to KFC to eat and it'll be fine in line pulling up parking etc. but by the time I get back home (about 5 miles away) it'll be ready to squeal again when I put it in park to get the paper. Then I'll put it in drive to pull into the garage and it'll squeal then too all the way to the garage. I don't trust this situation. What's it sound like to you? Help!
  • bnormannbnormann Member Posts: 335
    Fred,

    The squealing you hear is NOT the timing belt. It is either one of your other (non-timing) belts (V-Belts) or it is an idler pulley that has a bad bearing.

    Bruce
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    Fred-if your alternator drive belt is squealing-either tighten it or if it is worn-replace it. A loose alternator drive belt will burn out an alternator asap-I speak from experience-they get hot and bye bye diodes. Also do not over tighten the alternator drive belt-can wreck the bearings.

    A squalling power steering belt has a longer fuse but should be fixed.
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    Called around to various Honda dealers to replace the valve timing belt, AC/alternator/PS drive belts, balance shaft belts and balance shaft seals and the price ranged from $389 to $ 650 +.

    Some of those service departments said they would not change the timing belt without replacing the water pump. Got one honest guy-said he never replaces the water pump unless it needs replacing.

    Am at 105K now and will replace the belt when get to around 140K-maybe 150. Do not waste bandwidth telling me this is a mistake-all highway miles means the belt will probably be good to 200K and I know it is an interference engine.
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    It doesn't sound like you are looking for any advice at the moment, but I just wanted to mention this in case you didn't know. We have an experienced and very helpful Honda tech hanging out in Honda Accord Problems Part 2 - if you want to, you could ask or discuss with him any of these things. He posts under the name of auburn63.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    You also may want to follow the link I just posted in #114 in case you want to discuss this with auburn63.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    I'm afraid I don't understand. Exactly how do highway miles differ from "city" miles wrt the timing belt?
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    do the math-if you drive 90% in town and your average speed is say 25 mph versus 90 % on the road at 65 mph, the engine RPM will be about the same but the number of total engine rpm's and hours of operation will be more than doubled.
  • joe111joe111 Member Posts: 28
    Your theory on city driving vs. highway driving is very interesting. I can see where you could have probably twice the mileage on a belt if nearly all your driving is done on the highway(with a comparable number of hours on the belt if most of your driving is city). Too bad cars don't come with hour meters like airplanes or tractors,because hours of use would be more appropriate than just mileage. Honda probably doesn't look at it your way but I think you have a valid point.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    You will *probably* be fine. If not, you will only have yourself (and your theory) to blame!

    It's only money, after all!

    And, to not replace your water pump while you are in there is false economy in my book. It is exposed and takes nothing to replace since everything is already apart.

    How long will that "good" pump last? Another 100,000 miles.? Pretty doubtful.

    With my luck, if I didn't change it, it would start leaking the following month!
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    Ok. I'll buy that somewhat. There certainly will be more engine revolutions in city driving than in highway driving, per mile. However, that not the whole picture. Getting up to highway speeds requires higher engine rpm (and therefore higher stress on the belt) than typical city driving. On average, there probably is more wear on a belt that sees mostly city driving though.

    I guess I just don't see the advantage of trying to squeeze out a few extra miles. $500 every 60000 miles is CHEAP! Owning a car, insuring a car, and fueling a car is expensive. Maintaining one is not.
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    Calling the service managers to get a quote for timing belt replacement at 6 different Honda Dealerships was interesting. The guys who said they always replaced the water pump had the highest price for the replacement of the timing belt, drive belt and balancer shaft belts and seals.

    The two service managers who had the lowest prices also said they only replaced the water pumps when they had indications of problems and that this was a very rare event. Also it is very interesting to note the always replace the water pump guys had the highest prices for replacing the pump.

    There are honest people in the car business-you just gotta search around to find them. Unfortunately most of them are in the business of relieving you of as much of your cash as possible.
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    Had the timing belt on my 91 Accord replaced at 85k miles by one of the shops that recommended not replacing the water pump. Guess what? The water pump started leaking at 105k miles. Had to have it replaced and paid the labor over again. From now on when the timing belt is replaced a new water pump goes on.

    An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure in my book.
  • joe111joe111 Member Posts: 28
    I don't know why that shop didn't reccomend a water pump change with the belt change. In my experience with driving cars for over 40 years, a waterpump generally goes about 100,000 miles. I had the water pump changed in my 90 Accord at 90,000 miles with the timing belt. I'll never know how long the original water pump would have lasted, but that was a logical time to change it. I guess you'll have to chalk it up to live and learn silvercoupe. Good luck
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    Just trying to help butch11 to realize that some of us have already tried this route and learned the hard way. Also, mostly highway miles on my car. So even if the timing belt would have lasted much longer as he is saying, I still would have had the water pump to replace.
  • auerbachauerbach Member Posts: 110
    Just read through all of the posts here and have a question. My 91 Accord has 118,000 miles on it. Had it in to dealer a few weeks ago for the infamous main relay replacement (Car wouldn't start in hot weather). Anyway the invoice has the tech's recommendations which include a timing belt replacement @ $550 and if it needs oil seals it would be $750. I don't think anyone here has mentioned anything about oil seals - what are they? Are they related to the water pump. And if so why didn't the tech mention a water pump replacement? And at 118,000 miles am I pushing my luck with the timing belt??
    Any feedback would be great!
  • joe111joe111 Member Posts: 28
    Oil seals have nothing to do with the timing belt. If your Honda is leaking oil from the oil seal, then you need an oil seal. At 118,000 miles you are definately pushing your luck with the timing belt. I changed the belt in my 90 Accord at 90,000 miles, also changed the water pump at that time. The whole bill came to $390.00, it was done by my local Honda dealer. If your timing belt breakes, you risk damaging the pistons and valves in the engine=hasta la vista engine. Get your timing belt and water pump changed pronto and get a second opinion on the oil seal.
  • auerbachauerbach Member Posts: 110
    Thanks for the quick reply. It seems to me you got a great price for the whole job! Maybe my Northern New Jersey location has something to do with exorbitant price I got? If I may ask - where are you located?
  • joe111joe111 Member Posts: 28
    I'm from Northern California, and the deal I got from the Honda dealer seems to be pretty good. I could have even done a little better on the price if I had gone to a local mechanic,but I figured the Honda dealer would do it right with genuine Honda parts.It's not that tough a job though, any competent garage should be able to do a good job, but don't try and save a few bucks by not changing the water pump. With 118,000 miles on the pump it makes very good sense to change both together. Good luck
  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    Usually when we recommend timing belts for Nissan's we also let the customer know additional work my be needed.... Like water pump,cam seals,crank seal,and welch plug. Not all of the Nissan's run belts some have chains. The ones that run chain can go up to 100K-120K before needing the chain replaced...

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • auerbachauerbach Member Posts: 110
    Just one more question - how long did it take your dealer to complete the job? Can they do it in one day? I would like to drop it off in the morning before work and pick it up after work.
    Thanks,
  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    I did my timing belt myself.. Although,if you have a appointment and drop your car off in the morning they should be able to finish the vehicle that day...

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
    Roving Host
  • auerbachauerbach Member Posts: 110
    I wish I had the mechanical skills to do the same!! I called another local Honda dealer and they gave me a price of $435 for the timing belt job with a new water pump. Sounds fairly reasonable to me. Now all I have to do is schedule an appointment, make arrangements to be picked up at the dealership and then brought back - ah the fun never ends....
  • gt7318dgt7318d Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have just bought a 97 Toyota Corolla CE having 61,630 miles on. Some book says to change the timing belt at 60k, but a table on this town hall says the manufacturer does not recommend any specific time to change timing belt for models after 1994. Anybody has any idea whether I should go ahead and replace the timing belt. Thanks
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    What does your owner's manual say to do?
  • auerbachauerbach Member Posts: 110
    Had a dealer do the timing belt and water pump. At least I don't have to worry about it "going" at any moment.
    Now, does anyone know anything about CV boots....
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    Inspect them frequently. I also put some of that silicone rubber spray on mine-probably does not do much to make them last longer. Generally it is the outer boot that goes. Have replaced damaged outer boots with those split boots-did not work very well. The only alternative is to pull the short shafts-you will probably destroy the ball joint and maybe other rubber boots in the process. But by all means if you see a split boot-get it repaired asap-does not take long to get dirt in the cv joint and then it is a matter of time before they start clicking. Had a friend who's CV joints were so bad they would actually disengage in a turn-bang bang.

    By the way-road damage caused by all the crap you see on the highways can also tear your boots. Check them monthly.

    What did it cost to replace the timing belt and water pump. Best price I have found from a Honda dealer was about $425.
  • auerbachauerbach Member Posts: 110
    I had the dealer do the timing belt and water pump. I also had the A pipe replaced. After 9 years it was rusted and very loud. Some other seals were replaced and ignition wires and plug grommets because they were deteriorated.
    The total bill was (drum roll please) 1186.65 of which $370 was the A-pipe. I knew going in that the a-pipe was an expensive part. Long story short the service department didn't break out the cost of each repair - just a total. However when I called before making the appointment - they quoted me a price of $470 for the timing belt and water pump job.
    It was during this service that they mentioned my CV boots were going. Didn't have that fixed yet - need to get 4 new tires first!!
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Member Posts: 1,007
    I just had the 60,000 mile service done on my 95 Mazda Protege DX (63,000 miles). Includes a timing belt change, coolant, other belts, seals, gaskets, transmission service and oil, spark plugs, air and fuel filter replacements. All said and done, added up to just under $600.

    They also pointed out that both front CV boots would need replacement as they had rips in them, fairly recent rips. i can imagine I got these on a 5000 mile road trip over summer, during the course of which i did some slightly unsuitable off-roading!

    The cost to replace the boots with non-split (ie original, full) boots is about $240 (both on front), and this includes a huge amount for labour to take the ball joints in the axles apart, with a slight risk of further damage in this process. on the other hand, replacing the axle joints (which come with a whole bunch of new CV boots, grease and other seals/boots) is approximately $300. I am considering getting this done instead.

    Any advice? And how long can I wait before I do this - considering that I am getting the axle joints replaced. I was hoping I could wait a bit, as I also just had a pair of new tires put in and can't afford to spend so much on the car right now. Is there a risk of any other damage that could crop up as a result of not changing the CV boots right away? (any more than replacing the axle joint, which is what I plan to do!)

    thanks
    -ashu
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    Do it asap-if you have gotten any dirt at all in the cv joints, they may have to be rebuilt.

    By the way, before I take my car to anyone whom I do not know, I always very carefully inspect the cv joint boots for damage and very emphatically tell the service people I have done an inspection and I know nothing is wrong with the boots. More than a few service people manufacture problems to create income and tearing a boot with a pair of pliers is a quick way to make a buck.
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    If you are going to replace the complete axles, you can wait until the old ones start popping when you turn. If you opt out for just the boots, as butch11 says, do it as soon as possible.
  • robert_s_22robert_s_22 Member Posts: 25
    I have a 1998 Toyota Camry XLE V-6 with 70,500 miles on it. I went to the gates website to check the service interval. For some reason a 1997 3.0 V-6 is recommened to be changed at 60,000 miles.. But the 1998 3.0 V-6 is recommended at 90,000 miles !!! Is this right ? Please help

    Robert Smith
    smithrob75@hotmail.com
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    The Gates website is correct. Toyota upped the service interval from 60K to 90k between the '97 and '98 model years. I don't know if any real changes were made, but in any case the interval is still 90K for 2000 models.
  • pamshondapamshonda Member Posts: 1
    I recently had an oil leak. Took my '95 Honda into a neighborhood gas station repair shop. Was told the oil seal (crankshaft) needed replacing. When I picked up my car, it was making a very high-pitched whining sound. I took it back and they couldn't figure out what was wrong, then next day told me it was the timing belt. But, it's okay to drive the car. Just bring it back if the noise gets louder. Can you shed any light on what I should do?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The high pitched whine is usually indicative of a timing belt tensioner adjusted WAY too tight.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Sometimes the neighborhood gas station isn't the best place to take a car...

    Take it to a dealer or an independant who specializes in Hondas. Usually when the crank seal gos out, oil gets on the timing belt. In which case, the belt should be replaced.

    They may have done this since everything was apart anyway. I think Alcan is correct.

    Don't ignore it.
  • lynne8lynne8 Member Posts: 4
    Have a 2000 corolla LE. Around 60 mph and up there is a vibration in the steering wheel. You can actually see it move. Took it to dealer, tires balanced twice. Still a problem, they said bad tires. Had tires warrantied out and replaced with upgraded Goodyear Regatta. STILL VIBRATES! Anyone else had his problem? I have an appt. this Friday. Spent a lot of wasted time on a brand new car!
  • ataieataie Member Posts: 84
    I had the exact problem with my 95 maxima.

    1- had all wheels balanced, problem still there
    2- full alignment, still shaking at 65+
    3- replaced all 4 struts (not cheap), didn't fix the problem
    4 - another wheel alignment

    finally.......

    they replaced the right front strut mount ($30) and that did it.

    so the I basically wasted about $600 for nothing. all these were suggested by the mechanic, as I will not step into dealer shop. every time, I've gone in, I came out with more problem than before. just don't trust those boys.
  • lynne8lynne8 Member Posts: 4
    The dealer said my NEW tires were not good! (this is getting ridiculous) Also, they felt the rims were bad. They replaced three of the tires and put on new rims. They test drove it and now felt that the feeling in the steering wheel was the usual "road feel" from the tires. I drove it and still feel the same vibration. You can see my hand shaking on the steering wheel. I am totally frustrated. Thinking about taking it to another dealer and will mention what you have told me. Also, I totally agree with you about going to dealers. Whenever I have taken my cars in for repair, something else wrong mysteriously pops up. (only going because it is still under warranty - less than 4,000 miles)
  • jessiemaijessiemai Member Posts: 17
    I have a 95 Civic that is approaching 99,000 miles. I am worried about the timing belt now because it should have been replaced at 90,000 miles. I don't want to shell out the $300+ to replace it since I am new car shopping and may be driving off the lot with a new vehicle within a week or two.

    But I am experiencing some major paranoia about driving it in the meantime, knowing that it should have been replaced. With my luck I'll end up on the side of the road in some remote area with a busted belt and bent valves!

    Why do I worry so much? Because I've been there! I had a 1989 Civic CRX and around about 78000 miles, the timing belt went POW! I was dead in the water with $2000 owed yet on the car -looking at a $2000 valve job. I junked it and started over. It was a major loss to me as I was dirt poor at the time.

    Isellhondas, I think you may be off a little as to the year in which Honda changed the timimg belt replacement recommendation to 90,000 miles. My car was an '89 and the belt went at 75,000 miles. The manual said it should have been changed at 60.

    At that time, I had no clue that a timing belt even needed to be replaced. I was very maintenance ignorant. Just check out this "dumb chick's" path of destruction in chronological order: 1972 Chevy Vega, siezed engine due to no oil (how could this NOT happen, since it burned a quart a day!); 1990 Bronco II - threw a tie rod due to improper maintenance (but the truck was a DOG anyway); 1983 Nissan Pickup seized up (I still miss that beater truck with the duct tape fenders); 1989 Honda CRX, timing belt disaster.

    After that, I made a decision not to buy a used car ever again and to pay attention to the maintenance schedules. I can't say that I've followed them all to the letter, but my Civic has been a wonderful car so far.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Yeah, I might have been off a year. At some point, 1989-1990 ? Honda went from 60K timing belts to 90K belts.

    In light of your bad experience, I can't understand why you would tempt fate again!!

    It always puzzles me when people will spend big bucks for a car and then will skimp on them. It makes no sense to me at all.

    You probably have nothing to fear. these belts usually go quite a ways past the 90K.

    Still, why take a gamble?

    And, when you go to trade it in, the first question you will probably be asked is " Did you replace your timing belt?"

    And, guess what...the costs of replacing it will be deducted from the appraised value.

    Good Luck!
  • erwormerworm Member Posts: 3
    a word of caution.take it slow on the starts.no
    fast accelaration.nurse it easy.you should be all right.
  • jessiemaijessiemai Member Posts: 17
    I'm not trying to tempt fate, I just don't have $300 budgeted for a car repair. Not skimping, just poor! I do however, have $350 budgeted for my monthly car payment. Since I wanted a new car anyway, replacing the car I am paying FOR made more sense to me than trying to come up with an EXTRA $300. But that's neither here nor there - because I changed my mind about the new car and will keep the Civic. And yes, I am making an appointment to have the belt replaced. I'll just work some weekends for a while to pay for it.

    I have had my car to a dealer for trade-in on a Toyota Tacoma, and surprisingly, they didn't ask me a thing about the timing belt, although I was fully expecting them to. They did deduct money for "fair" tires (which happen to be less than 9 months old and have nearly new tread). I learned real fast that it doesn't matter how much you baby a car, when trade-in time comes, they'll low-ball you anyway.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Probably has a long life ahead of it. If you can afford it, have them change the drive belts and water pump while they are "in there".

    It is amazing how long a well maintained Honda can last. change the oil often.
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles