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" A4WD (4X4 AUTO) provides electronic control four-wheel drive with power delivered to all
four wheels, as required, for increased traction. This is appropriate for all on-road driving conditions, such as dry road surfaces, wet pavement, snow or gravel".
You are also wrong to suggest with the front diff locked ABS stops working, but that's another topic.
That's EXACTLY what I said.
A4WD is a PART-TIME 4WD system that normally operates in RWD (Explorer, ETC) or FWD (idiot vehicles).
Think about it, with the CENTER diff'l locked, Part-Time 4WD, ABS cannot independently control the braking level in the front without impacting the rear, and vice versa. Same goes for TC and VSC. Every system I know of, have read about, that has the ability for actual 4WD (locked center Diff'l) automatically disables the individual wheel or driveline braking unless one driveline can rotate mostly independent from the opposite driveline.
The problem we have "today" is the level of trust that was built up in the past for RWD/4WD and R/awd was well warranted. Now we have a class of new drivers who have not a clue as to the patently unsafe nature of FWD vehicles and now F/awd systems. "It" worked well in the past, so why not today..?
Yes, there are literally MYRIADS of differing AWD system designs out there in the marketplace today, most of them "base" FWD. Base FWD since it is those that can most benefit from the distribution of at least some level of engine torque away from the traction coefficient with which we maintain, sustain directional control.
The only "base" FWD....F/awd system I would recommend would be the SH-AWD. But at the same time we must take note of the inappropriately high driveline component failure rate with the SH-AWD. High failure rate very likely arising from the STELLAR operational nature of the SH-AWD, undue, inappropriate, STRESS level incurred via daily use of torque re-apportioning, up to 80% to the rear in a tight or accelerating turn, even with no threat to loss of traction being present.
Let's also not forget that there are likely a lot more readers of these posts than actual participants, readers who rely on the information posted here.
Yes, these modern day "automatic" AWD systems will often ALWAYS make use, by default, of 4 wheel drive mode at times when Loss of traction, wheelspin/slip, is most likely to result should the roadbed traction coefficient be marginal.
The problem is that means that the clear majority of the time, times when the roadbed traction coefficent is satisfactory, or even well beyond, those systems still put the driveline components under extra stress and heating.
You may note the high level of "awd" driveline stress failures as a result.
Life was much, MUCH easier back in the days when RWD was dominant and extra traction meant having a 4WD mode. It was easy to get owner/drivers to understand why the 4WD mode should only be engaged with specific roadbed conditions.
Now we have automatic "AWD" systems that will switch into 4WD mode, or partially so, the ~90% (99%...??) of the time it is needless, only to prevent todays owner/drivers from being forced to gain a small bit of additional intelligence.
On the other hand the patently unsafe nature of FWD, and/or F/awd, has sorta forced the manufacturer's "hand". As a matter of safety, purely a matter of safety, these MUST always pre-emptively re-apportion engine torque to the rear any time, ANY TIME, there is a high potential for wheelspin/slip to result, otherwise leading DIRECTLY to loss of directional control, or potenially so.
Obviously not an issue with a RWD, R/awd, or even 4WD.
Should those,except the 4WD mode, lose directional control, regardless of road conditions, the fault lies directly with the driver's lack of reacting quickly. Get OFF the gas should that have been the base causative factor, or counter-steer, turn into the skid, should the initial oversteering event be not the fault of the driver. Or BOTH.
-alwaysford2, you were correct. Shortly after I posted on here my ABS dash light started coming on also. I took it to the dealer later in April to get the code read, and they told me to replace my speed sensors. After replacing all of the speed sensors I still had the ABS light on, and rather than paying the dealer more money to chase the problem, I decided to go to my regular mechanic (the old timer that we all know through someone) in May. He reads the code, speed sensor code again, then he walks to all 4 wheels and pulls and prys on them with a breaker bar. He follows that up with asking me if I'm hearing any noise from that front right side that I mentioned in my original post, "Yeah I have actually" I told him. To the point, the front driver side CV joint and bearing were going out, which was causing the ABS light to come on and the speed sensor to misread, which was also causing my ride to go in and out of 4WD. I had both sides on the front replaced (Whole assembly: bearings, sensors, cv joints), and I am now rolling smooth again in all situations. I got back a little over 1mpg with that, but I followed that up with new coils and plugs which got me back another 2.5,pg, so I'm back to a bearable 15.8hwympg avg.
Hope that helps someone that reads this in the future.