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Part # 4031610
This is the only transmission fluid for the 2010 - 2013 Mitsubishi Outlander 6 Cylinder Engine with a 6 speed automatic transmission is to use! No equivalent is available from ANY auto parts store!
Outlander 2007-2009 V6 3.0L the recommended ATF was DiaQueen ATF-J2.
People were sometimes using the Hyundai brand for SP-III fluid. Same stuff licensed to Hyundai but often cheaper.
I consulted the 2012 service manual to find out that the automatic fluid of my GT is indeed DiaQueen ATF-J3. Approximately 1-quart of ATF-J3 costs $20 while ATF-J2 costs $10. The ATF-J3 is sold in 4-litre container while the ATF-J2 is sold in 1-quart container.
I will experiment by adding ¼ of a quart of ATF-J3 to see if this may eliminate the automatic hesitation of my GT. I said adding instead of taken away because Mitsubishi technicians may lapse by exclusion than by inclusion. The saving that Mitsubishi may gain is 250,000 quarts of ATF-J3 in 1 millions cars sold wide world.
I am not an oil engineer but a grade of fear of damaging the automatic unit may be the main reason to use the OEM ATF given by Mitsubishi (i.e. ATF-J3). Oil scientists add additives (many of which are patented) to oil used in the automotive industry. I am very careful of obeying what car’s manufacturers specify for their cars (although this may be a hoax) because I do not know what will happen with my automatic transmission unit if I use cheaper or unknown ATF oil.
I personally follow the specifications given for Mitsubishi as far as fluids are concerned. Example: brake fluid, engine oil fluid, steering oil fluid, transfer fluid, A/C fluid and ATF fluid
With correspondingly higher prices too.
I installed a set of H&R Springs two months ago and WOW - not cheap when you employ a mechanic to install them but REALLY worth it. They lower the car about 1." overall but most importantly the spring weight and progression is dialed in really well. If road clearance isn't big deal I recommend them.
Right & left rear suspension spring (coil) has part#4140A187 at a price $78 each. It may prove better choice than H & R spring.
What problem does part No 3 cause?? Did you use poor quality gas?
How did the hole appear in the first place? What is your diagnosis? Was the hole made by corrosion or because you hit the exhaust with something unintentionally while driving?
If a soup can is able to solve the problem so perhaps you can make it permanently by using a piece of stainless steel pipe (home depot) and using 2-clamps to fix it in place or just use the service of a mechanic welder to do the job.
However, it is very important to know what caused the exhaust pipe hole in order to apply corrective measurements before the problem happens. My Lexus S300 has 140K miles and the exhaust pipe is still the original.
I remember taking my Mazda 323GTX in to the dealer for exhaust work. The service writer looked at it and said, "You don't want to get that fixed here". He directed me to the local place. $300 vs. $950, and that was in 1994.
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However, it seems to be true about the short journeys in your Outlanders as a cause for exhaust corrosion. A good rule of thumb could be to take the Outlander for 20 miles ride every 15-day at speed above 65 mph. Please do not get me wrong but your experience with your Outlander is a good indication for other owners to prevent premature exhaust pipe corrosion.
im new here and new to outlanders.
just bought a jan 2009 black outlander, 65000km done. service history shows all services were done right upto 60000km at the same mitsubishi service centre. have had it for about 2 months and all was good,
until 3 days ago when i start my car, ABS light comes on as well as 4WD with the exclamation mark and the large ABS sign with service required. All the lights stay on, and sometimes when I'm driving, even at 10km/hr the light goes off saying drive slow.
Wanted to know how bad is it? Is it just a sensor problem or is this really serious.
That second canister is likely a resonator/inline muffler and not a catalytic convertor.
It sounds like for $950 you are getting a new catalytic convertor too?
Even though the mitsubishi builds it as one piece, a shop can cut off right after the cat and make new pipe piece-wise to the muffler. replace the resonator with another one, etc. Check with local emission laws though.
Given the advanced braking systems on these vehicles with ABS and ASC stability control what would be a reasonable brake fluid flush interval?
Brake fluid is hygroscopic..... it attracts water.. Water makes rust... Not good for brake lines..
I think your mechanic gave good advice, in this case..
Good luck!
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Querying my wife about what happened at her friends she told me that they have been using remotes (transmitter) to open the gate of their home and also the same (or other remote) to open the garage door.
Making a search on Google about the problem it comes out that this problem is endemic specially with the Mitsubishi EVO where drivers could not even start the engine as usual (having the key in his/her pocket). Some of these owners had to transport their car to the dealer to sort out the problem and others decided to use the manual key to start the engine, which was a relief when the engine started. However, they inform that the “warning message” is still there.
Everybody seems to be concerned about how to solve the problem but no one seem interested to know what triggers the problem in the first place.
RF remotes in the US work in the region of 315 MHz and every remote used in the country has to use this range of frequency to operate including every car used in the US (by law).
At the moment we cannot lock our car by touching the little button adjacent to the door handle and although we can still use the control key to open the door (by pressing the key manually), and start the engine while having the control key in our pocket the warning message:”Keyless operation system service required” is still there.
We will appreciate it, if members in this forum may provide their own comments and experiences about this problem.
My experience in "The best warranty".
Last year my outlander had a noise under the car, it was caused by heat shield. Delear fixed it under warranty. The same noise(even louder) came back this week, Called the dealer, they said it should be the heat shield. They only removed the loose part last year and this time they said that they will tie it down and it would be an adjustment therefore not covered under warranty. Called Mitsubishi, they agree with the dealer.
Good car, bad service. Never buy it again.
Heat shields ought to be covered under the B2B warranty. What year/how many miles are on your Outlander?
I did have a couple of clamps that held my heat shield rust through this winter; the dealer replaced them at no cost under warranty. But I'm within the time & miles for the B2B.
Anyone replace their liftgate struts yet? I see places like Advance Auto don't map a specific strut to specific vehicles and you must match the weight and travel and purchase that way. Just hoping someone's been through the exercise and has a part number (other than going to the "stealer".)
BTW: it's for a 2007 Outlander LS.
RockAuto.com shows a few lift supports for the rear hatch and one brand (Monroe) lists the specs. Maybe that'll help narrow your search down. It's listed under Body Exterior > Lift Support.
Thanks a lot for the tip. So far I had been up empty,
Haven't replaced mine on my '07 but they're getting weak and making noise, so it"s just a matter of time.
Battery recently replaced on main ignition/door key recently without problem but discovered spare key would not operate even though it's battery is in good shape. Never had to use the spare before and suspect it may need to be reprogrammed. Dealer cost for reprogramming is $55.00.
Tried to reprogram myself following "Customer remote control transmitter programming" instructions in the Owner's Manual but without success.
Suspect the spare key may have belonged to another Outlander and switched at time of purchase.
Could this be the reason it won't reprogram?
Ideas anyone?