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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • flacaflaca Member Posts: 168
    Well, second dealership is replacing the transmission under warranty and has also corrected the codes relating to the check engine light (3 parts were changed). A new transmission at 21k miles! Oh my, now I am scared. I have two more years on the lease. Thank God, I bought the extended warranty!!
    We'll see when i pick up the car tomorrow.
    Now, I have to fight with first dealership to get back my money for the rental car. They made me pay for the rental eventhou I was told it would be covered by them. I will be writing to VW of A very soon airing out my complaints. I have been withhout my Jetta for over 20 days total. Shouldn't they reimburse me for 20 days of lease time?
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Member Posts: 1,538
    How about 20 days of PAY time!!??
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    VWoA is not going to give you either 20 days of pay or lease time. They will say sorry about the inconvience and have a great day. If VW provided compensation for time your car spends in the shop, they woulr be paying so much out to customers that they would never make $.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I always thought that a LEASE was just that... THEY "own" the vehicle and you are just using it.
    Thus... they "own" all repairs.(When one 'leases' an apartment... the landlord must fix broken plumbing and roofs.)

    If this is not true... JUST ANOTHER REASON TO NEVER NEVER EVER LEASE A VEHICLE.

    When you BUY a vehicle, you OWN it and have somthing to trade towards another vehicle when you want.

    When one LEASES... there is absolutely NO BENIFETS
    You do not OWN it, and STILL have to pay for repairs!!.... in the end they take it back and you have absolutely nothing to trade in or drive.

    I guess there are a lot of suckers out there that start with an "owned" vehicle and get into a lease real cheap (because of the trade-in value) HOWEVER... when the lease is up they get a big surprise.... since this time, there is nothing to trade in and they are STUCK leasing forever.

    That is why I SAVE my $$ until I can purchase a car... then while I am driving it, I save for the next purchase. (Takes about 12 years at about $150 a month)
  • balticjetta18tbalticjetta18t Member Posts: 146
    I worked as a sales and leasing rep. at a large Lincoln Mercury dealer in Florida for 6-7 yrs. Comparing an apt.lease and car lease are not a true comparison since you can always exercise your purchase option on the vehicle but not to own an apt. that still might have maintenance fees every year just as a condo or co-op would. Leasing is not for all. I have both owned and leased vehicles. I have found that it cost me always less in a lease vs. ownership. Mileage for me has always run 12-15k per year. Extremely high mileage drivers are better off buying conventionally. I would never lease a vehicle for longer than the factory warranty nor pay for extended warranty coverage or even buy maintenance in advance. Some high dollar cars have all the factory maint. included in their bumper to bumper warranty. I have usually only paid for each oil and filter change each 5k miles and had tires rotated and balanced each 7-8k miles for even wear as to not have to put tires on the car at return time. I have never put down anything more than 1st month payment and a tag fee and tax. Many lease companies will forgo a security deposit with good credit or past good payment history with them such as Ford motor credit. The main objective of a lease is to pay for depreciation in the vehicle instead of purchasing an equity stake in a vehicle that will depreciate no matter what plus pay interest to the bank that will still have the lien on the car unless you paid cash for it up front. Yes they have some low lease offers which usually means it is low mileage ie. 10k per year or 48 mos. or 39 months to stretch out the larger payment into something smaller. Sometimes a lease is good for someone that needs a lower payment for a few years. If you get a lease that fits your mileage and pay all of the payments and drive within your miles then you cannot get upside down with a payoff more than vehicle value. I have been able to extend a few 2 yr leases to get to the next model year vehicles and even to let some heavy mileage avg. drop down with a few months of less mileage. The consumer should always know the interest rate used in a lease that the lease charges are based upon. IN addition should never take on an OPEN ended lease which requires possible negotiation of vehicle value at lease termination time. Someone who trades in alot before paying off a typical 5 yr loan is perfect for a lease since they never own the car they finance anyway.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    You make some brash statements for someone who (it sounds like) is not that familiar with leasing vehicles.

    "I always thought that a LEASE was just that... THEY "own" the vehicle and you are just using it.
    Thus... they "own" all repairs.(When one 'leases' an apartment... the landlord must fix broken plumbing and roofs.)"

    Eventhough you are leasing a car, you are still responsible for all maintenance and repairs. That's why it's never a good idea for leasing a car for longer than it's warranty period.

    Why would someone be stuck leasing forever? as you state in your post. I am currently leasing my jetta and when the lease is up, I can either hand it back to the dealer (which I plan to do) or buy the car. Why would I be stuck leasing again? I can buy if I want to.

    Apparently, leasing is not for you. But, don't call someone a sucker if they choose to lease a vehicle.
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Member Posts: 1,538
    I thought leasing meant the owner (lease company) paid for all service, etc. and the lessee (you) just pay for gas and insurance.

    I thought that was one of the main draws to leasing a vehicle, that you didn't have to worry about "all that stuff".

    Now I wonder why anyone would lease a car at all.

    ???
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    When leasing a car the Owner (driver) is responsible for all service and maintenance not the leasing company. As far as repairs go, most of the time the car is under the manufacturer warranty so there is no money out of pocket for repairs.

    I really don't understand the confusion. When someone takes out a loan for a car.....does the bank or credit union where the loan was originated take care of the maintenance costs? No!! It's the smae with a lease company
  • tzampirritzampirri Member Posts: 2
    I was about to buy a 2002 1.8 T last night but was having second thoughts. Are they really as much of a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] as everyone is saying? Is there anyone that has had a really good experience with theirs? Also I have a Honda Accord now and was wondering if the repairs are much higher on the Jetta and routine maintanence, i.e. oil changes, tires, etc costs more. Also I am almost poitive I am going to put a remote starter on the turbo to prevent any disasters in the future. My question is can I put a remote start on a tiptronic and is it worth it. The dealer says theses turbos are meant to get in a go, they don't need to warm up or cool down which I think is bull. Also she said that you only really need regular gas, I also think this is a crock. I live in Philly if that makes a difference to anything. Somebody please help me, I don't know what to do!
  • shawnmaloneshawnmalone Member Posts: 71
    Tara, I thought if you bought the Turbo, you had to fill it with premium fuel. If the dealer is saying something different, I suggest you check the manual.

    Depending on where you live, VW maintenance can cost more than Honda maintenance; this is certainly true where I live, because there are plenty of Honda dealers and independent service shops that handle Hondas, but fewer that work on VWs.
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Member Posts: 1,538
    I thought this was a family chat room!

    (#2353)

    ;-)
  • target3target3 Member Posts: 155
    I have a 2002 1.8T Manual with almost 10,000 miles on it. I love the car - absolutely no problems.


    Yes, the manual says premium fuel (i.e. 91 octane or higher) recommended. That is all I use.


    As far as a remote starter goes, I would not get one. Yes, you should drive the car and take it easy until it warms up before you give 'er. However, I have also heard that to just start the car and let it idle can also cause problems. Who knows?

  • htjhtj Member Posts: 1
    Most people will be driving at least one car at any one time over their active adult lifetime. That car can either be owned (financed or purchased for cash) or leased. The only difference is the name on the title. You still pay for the same depreciation, financing cost, gas, service, maintenance, etc, whichever mode of "ownership" you choose. The only difference is by the time you can not drive anymore at say 85 years old, you have a car to trade-in (if you have always owned) or not (if you have always leased). At this point in my life I don't care about having a $5,000 trade-in when I'm 85.
    So I always lease a car because I'd rather have somebody else worryng about trade-ins etc every time I want a new car to replace an old one.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    In Philly, it doesn't get cold enough to need a remote starter. I'm in Minneapolis and I don't have one. Having a turbo shouldn't matter. If anything, a turbocharged engine heats up faster. I'd let it warm up for maybe 30 seconds--if it's really cold. Let the RPMs drop a couple hundred and start driving. Use a good synthetic and drive it nice until the temp gauge is where it's supposed to be and your car will love you.
  • hobieslughobieslug Member Posts: 18
    can anyone tell me if the 2.0 in a friends 96 jetta is an interference engine and when the belt should be changed
  • krautkarvr6krautkarvr6 Member Posts: 23
    I have to agree with newcar31. Turbo cars do not need any more warm up time than naturally aspirated cars. And they probably DO warm up faster. I once read in a book called "Drive it Forever" that an engine should not be excessively idled after start up. It's hard on the piston rings (hard to pump cold oil into such tight tolerances) and with VWs (which are all overhead cam engines) it's very hard on the valve train and cam lobes. Especially as the car gets older. I'm sure this especially true of a turbo engine.
    I personally recommend letting an engine idle 30 seconds for every ten degrees below 32 degrees F. I have done this religiously since I got into working on cars as a hobby and found it to be a good rule of thumb. So if it's 10 degrees out your best bet would be to let it idle for minimum of a full minute before moving the car.
    The book also said that an engine warms faster (obviously) while moving but it also gives the benefit of full oil pressure to all areas of the engine. This has always made sense to me. Plus it warms the wheel bearings, transmission fluid and gets the thermostat open sooner so you get warmer faster. : )
    As far as letting a turbo "cool down" is concerned, at this late date with turbo technology being what it is I would not treat the car any differently than a naturally aspirated car UNLESS I was just out driving the you know what out of it. Then yes, I would give the turbo a few minutes of idle in the garage before shutting it down. Turbos at full boost spin in the neighborhood of 80,000 rpm to 180,000 rpm for some small frame units and yes they generate LOTS of heat. A cool down period would do it right if you are prone to running it hard. Of course a turbo timer would never HURT your car and if I were to buy turbo car I'd put one in. Also, like newcar31 said, use a synthetic oil. Mobil 1 is always my choice.
    Finally, I have a 2001 VR6 Jetta with 28K on it with no major problems. No window issues, no rattles, no check engine light etc. The rear brakes are wearing a bit fast and the manual tranny synchros are annoying at best. But the car has never left me sitting ANYWHERE. In fact, overall I love my car. So to come on a forum about Jetta problems and ask if you should get one is really putting yourself into a biased inquisition. The fact is, ANYONE can get a lemon. As a number of people on this forum can attest to. But I also had a 2000 VR6 GLS with ZERO problems to 17K when it was wrecked. So my advice to you is to jump off that fence and go buy a Jetta. Also, get one with the 17 inch wheel package and "sport" suspension. You'll be glad you did.
  • tzampirritzampirri Member Posts: 2
    Thanks to everyone for their input on the Jetta. I actually decided to get a 2003 turbo with the sport package. I love it! Knock on wood, I don't have any probs. I'll prob end up crashing before the car crashes on me! I think I may get the remote just for convenience. About how much more are the oil changes on the T than regular cars? And would you get it changed every 3,000 k? I have been with my other cars.
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Member Posts: 1,538
    I usually let the car warm up for 5 or 10 minutes while I have breakfast. The car is nice and toasty and the windshield is clean by then.

    I wonder if I need to rethink that.

    ???
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    You all know it's actually better for the car to warm up slowly while DRIVING rather than letting the car sit and warm up. It is really never good for a car to sit and idle. I have read that in several of my car magazines. I doubt it will ruin your car, but from what i've heard its better to drive it lightly when warming up the car.
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Member Posts: 1,538
    ...but it sure is nice having a melted windshield and warm interior!
  • rrsafetyrrsafety Member Posts: 38
    I hate my 1996 Jetta, I'm in for the fourth time this year for sensors and engine light problems. Right now I'm in the shop because it needs TWO sensors, the O2 sensor and the speed sensor. I hate this car. Anyone else having VW sensor problems?
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    "About how much more are the oil changes on the T than regular cars?"

    Shouldn't be anymore than the 2.0L Jetta. They both have the same oil filter, but the 1.8T requires a little more oil. Synthetic, if you choose it, is more money too.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    They are the same as the 2.0 unless you get synthetic. And it's changed ever 5K miles, per VW.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I let my car sit about 90 seconds before taking off, just enough time to wait for the RPMs to drop to their normal level. The warming of the interior doesn't bother me as much, as I have the heated seats and it keeps me warm and toasty until I can turn the heater on. Also, no ice on the windshield for me usually either.

    It's bad for the car, your wallet, and the environment to let a car idle for 10=15 mins. a day! You realize how much that car's polluting the air and wasting gas, just sitting there? Think of it this way, the whole time you are sitting still, you are getting 0mpg.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    The VW surely is going to be more expensive to work on. Hondas seem to be historically more reliable than Hondas as well, but that depends on personal experiences.
  • flacaflaca Member Posts: 168
    Still waiting for my car....Now the second dealer is playing with the transmission computer BEFORE they change the actual transmission. It is now 35 days without my Jetta (this includes first and second dealership). First dealership said the car had a bad speed sensor - changed it and then put back the old sensor when the ck engine light still popped up. What a horrid mess. I just think they are experimenting and moving wires around that keep messing up other wires. Like I said eariler my transmission was perfectly fine before the First dealership starting fooling around with the sensors. I hate sensors and their darn sensitivity.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    anyone know where to purchase the tool for screw in the pistons in the brake caliper?

    So far:
    Impex $90
    Snap-On kit: $130
  • krautkarvr6krautkarvr6 Member Posts: 23
    I usually let the car warm up for 5 or 10 minutes while I have breakfast. The car is nice and toasty and the windshield is clean by then.

    I wonder if I need to rethink that.

    ???

    You'll rethink that when you come out one day and your car is gone!

    : O
  • krautkarvr6krautkarvr6 Member Posts: 23
    I usually let the car warm up for 5 or 10 minutes while I have breakfast. The car is nice and toasty and the windshield is clean by then.

    I wonder if I need to rethink that.

    ???

    You'll rethink that when you come out one day and you car is gone! : O
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Member Posts: 1,538
    Where is my car going to go? They don't suddenly drop into gear like the Audi's, do they?

    ?????
  • flacaflaca Member Posts: 168
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Check out Vortex for more info. You might be able to get one cheaper there.
  • krautkarvr6krautkarvr6 Member Posts: 23
    Thanks for enlightening anonymous02. Yes, in fact they DO jump into gear. After someone has jumped into the car. It's a common problem with most decent makes of vehicles. Yes it seems as if most of the manufacturers have issued a recall on the owners of these vehicles. Apparently there is a defect in their common sense sensors. Maybe they should rename this forum: Jetta problems with Jetta owners.

    This is not meant to start a flame war. It was all in jest. So please forgive me...I couldn't help it. :)
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    I'm in the vortex...the G4/J4 folks aren't always helpful.

    I'm getting mine from TDIclub.
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Member Posts: 1,538
    I have no problems leaving my car running when I'm in the house. Heck, I leave it running when I'm in the post office or store sometimes.

    I guess you city slickers have a different outlook on life!
  • target3target3 Member Posts: 155
    and for others paying insurance, I hope that your insurance pays nothing if your vehicle is stolen because you leave it running.
  • flacaflaca Member Posts: 168
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    You are pretty lucky then. I live in MD, and if you did that here, you wouldn't have a car when you came out from the store.
  • flacaflaca Member Posts: 168
    Finally, after over 35 days and two dealerships later, I am driving my Jetta again. What they fixed: replaced shorted LDP pump, canister and valve, replaced evap purge valve, replaced leak diagnosis pump and replaced transmission. All covered under warranty!
    On Monday, I will be going to first dealership to complain to them about not fixing my car and try to get back the rental charges they made me pay. Goes to proof, you must shop around and get second or third opinions whenever possible. I hope the car remains in good shape and that the check engine light remains off.
    Happy Holidays to all!
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    You should have gotten a loaner when your car was in the shop overnight anyway. I would go to the first dealer, but I would call VWoA first about your situation.
  • orangeminiorangemini Member Posts: 2
    We have a 1985 turbo diesel Wolfsburg Jetta that has a remanufactured power steering pump and belt, which we hoped would cure excessively light steering. This is our 6th VW, and we hadn't noticed such light steering on any of the others. A sneeze will send you into the next lane. Has anyone else encountered this, and is there a cure?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Is it possible that previous to your 1985 VW that you had the MANUAL rack-n-pionion steering?

    The POWER r&p will feel very light as compared to the superior MANUAL r&p. I know several folks that tried to own a Honda or Toyota and went back to VW because the the roadfeel that the VW has. One of the strengths of VW is the feeling of being in touch with the road. (Favernuegen...sp?)

    I always LOVED that MANUAL r&p the roadfeel was superb (any my forearms were always exersixed in parking-lot manouvers ;-)

    To answer your question more fully, there MAY be some adjustments on the power steering rack to improve the roadfeel (reduce the 'lightness') The only time POWER steering is needed is when the vehicle is stopped. Once underway, the steering should REDUCE the power-assist so there is some roadfeel. (All good drivers NEVER turn the steering wheel when the vehicle is stopped anyway)

    Some vehicles claim "variable assist power steering" and that is exactly what they mean. (less power-assist while the vehicle is moving to improve roadfeel)
  • j42natoj42nato Member Posts: 1
    Last week my 3 mont hold Jetta 1.8 broke down. When I arrived to the dealer they said they knew what was wrong but unfortunately it will take 4-6 weeks before I would get the car back because VW is out of the coil pack parts. AND THERE ARE OVER 25 JETTAS on his lot waiting for the same part!!!!! Being not the dealers fault I called VW and they can't do anything about it. As far as I'm concerned if the car is not back in my possesion fixed in 20days from drop off I can and will envolk the NJ Lemon law. I think it is absolutly rediculouse to have to wait that long for a part. I have owned Foreign cars befor and have never has a problem more that 1 week getting a part. So if people are having a problem getting theese parts for cars or any other problem with a new Jetta look under the lemon law requirements for your state and envolk it. Maybe if enough of us lemon there cars they will see a need to make enough parts and keep there cars on the road instead of off the road. New Jerseys law is 3 times or if the car is off the road for at least 20days for the same problem. The only thing the car has to be under a certain milage and 2yrs or less old. GOOD LUCK if you need this part. If I have to Lemon Law this car I don't think I will be getting another one! Oh and P.S The Windows stink too!
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Member Posts: 1,538
    invoke/=/envolk
    there/=/their

    A Christmas present from me to you.
  • galogvigalogvi Member Posts: 41
    roflmao - I was thinking the exact same thing!!
  • jjettajjetta Member Posts: 1
    after filling my car up,the gauge drops down to 3/4 after about 10 miles
  • 4fisch4fisch Member Posts: 11
    I've been gone from these forums for almost a year. New job, recently new house and high-speed cable internet, and now I'm back (known now as 4fisch).

    VWoA recently offered me a "buy-out" deal on my 2000 GLS 1.8T. First off, it has been a wonderful car in every aspect except one; the MIL came on about 12 times between 12K and 32K miles (the point at which I said no more). The first MIL turned up a burned out air exchange valve in the intercooler, and the mechanic discovered a plastic air shield mistakenly installed in the factory. It doesn't belong on turbo models and restricted air flow to the intercooler. After the repair, they assured me the unit wouldn't suffer long-term damage. Since then I've had a host of air system/emissions valves replaced: two other turbo air valves, fuel/air cutoff, hooty valve, boost presure valve. Vaccuum leaks, turbo leaks, bad connections also resulted after valve replacements. At end I couldn't drive 200 miles without another MIL and the frequent trips to the dealer were really wearing on me. Finally, no one knew why the check engine light kept coming on, so they relaced the entire ECM!!

    The engine never ran poorly. I ran out of warranty and some of the parts weren't covered under the powertrain, but VW paid for them all! I worked with the dealer's GM who brokered a deal with VWoA - my car's list price minus depreciation applied toward a new VW. $16,200 is over full retail, and when applied to anew car plus my loan balance, I came in at $4000 UNDER invoice on an '03 GTI 1.8T with 17" wheels, leather, sun roof and monsoon. Not a bad deal, huh?

    I was surprised at how well VWoA did considering the horror stories poeple tell about customer service. If anybody has more questions about my experience, just ask. I'll post in the 'Jetta' section, too. Hope everyone still happily motorin'! Oh, and the GTI is pocket rocket!! I love it.
  • debr1debr1 Member Posts: 10
    I'm in a similar position with VW re buyback of my Jetta. Would you mind contacting me at LPM24242@aol.com so that I can ask you more questions about the buy back process. Thanks!
  • orangeminiorangemini Member Posts: 2
    Thanks bpeebles, for your thoughts. No, we have had Jettas before and not felt that the steering was too light. Now we'll look for an adjustment on the rack as you suggest. Thanks and Favernuegen... to you too!
  • tmac00tmac00 Member Posts: 8
    I am having a problem with the Theft Detterent system on our Jetta. If the car is "armed" (alarm on) or not I get in and try to start, nothing. Remove key and car will arm the alarm! Try key fob which disarms alarm and when I try to start again, nothing. Any advice on how to bypass this in order to drive it to a garage for repair. Thanks.
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