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Comments
We'll see when i pick up the car tomorrow.
Now, I have to fight with first dealership to get back my money for the rental car. They made me pay for the rental eventhou I was told it would be covered by them. I will be writing to VW of A very soon airing out my complaints. I have been withhout my Jetta for over 20 days total. Shouldn't they reimburse me for 20 days of lease time?
Thus... they "own" all repairs.(When one 'leases' an apartment... the landlord must fix broken plumbing and roofs.)
If this is not true... JUST ANOTHER REASON TO NEVER NEVER EVER LEASE A VEHICLE.
When you BUY a vehicle, you OWN it and have somthing to trade towards another vehicle when you want.
When one LEASES... there is absolutely NO BENIFETS
You do not OWN it, and STILL have to pay for repairs!!.... in the end they take it back and you have absolutely nothing to trade in or drive.
I guess there are a lot of suckers out there that start with an "owned" vehicle and get into a lease real cheap (because of the trade-in value) HOWEVER... when the lease is up they get a big surprise.... since this time, there is nothing to trade in and they are STUCK leasing forever.
That is why I SAVE my $$ until I can purchase a car... then while I am driving it, I save for the next purchase. (Takes about 12 years at about $150 a month)
"I always thought that a LEASE was just that... THEY "own" the vehicle and you are just using it.
Thus... they "own" all repairs.(When one 'leases' an apartment... the landlord must fix broken plumbing and roofs.)"
Eventhough you are leasing a car, you are still responsible for all maintenance and repairs. That's why it's never a good idea for leasing a car for longer than it's warranty period.
Why would someone be stuck leasing forever? as you state in your post. I am currently leasing my jetta and when the lease is up, I can either hand it back to the dealer (which I plan to do) or buy the car. Why would I be stuck leasing again? I can buy if I want to.
Apparently, leasing is not for you. But, don't call someone a sucker if they choose to lease a vehicle.
I thought that was one of the main draws to leasing a vehicle, that you didn't have to worry about "all that stuff".
Now I wonder why anyone would lease a car at all.
???
I really don't understand the confusion. When someone takes out a loan for a car.....does the bank or credit union where the loan was originated take care of the maintenance costs? No!! It's the smae with a lease company
Depending on where you live, VW maintenance can cost more than Honda maintenance; this is certainly true where I live, because there are plenty of Honda dealers and independent service shops that handle Hondas, but fewer that work on VWs.
(#2353)
;-)
Yes, the manual says premium fuel (i.e. 91 octane or higher) recommended. That is all I use.
As far as a remote starter goes, I would not get one. Yes, you should drive the car and take it easy until it warms up before you give 'er. However, I have also heard that to just start the car and let it idle can also cause problems. Who knows?
So I always lease a car because I'd rather have somebody else worryng about trade-ins etc every time I want a new car to replace an old one.
I personally recommend letting an engine idle 30 seconds for every ten degrees below 32 degrees F. I have done this religiously since I got into working on cars as a hobby and found it to be a good rule of thumb. So if it's 10 degrees out your best bet would be to let it idle for minimum of a full minute before moving the car.
The book also said that an engine warms faster (obviously) while moving but it also gives the benefit of full oil pressure to all areas of the engine. This has always made sense to me. Plus it warms the wheel bearings, transmission fluid and gets the thermostat open sooner so you get warmer faster. : )
As far as letting a turbo "cool down" is concerned, at this late date with turbo technology being what it is I would not treat the car any differently than a naturally aspirated car UNLESS I was just out driving the you know what out of it. Then yes, I would give the turbo a few minutes of idle in the garage before shutting it down. Turbos at full boost spin in the neighborhood of 80,000 rpm to 180,000 rpm for some small frame units and yes they generate LOTS of heat. A cool down period would do it right if you are prone to running it hard. Of course a turbo timer would never HURT your car and if I were to buy turbo car I'd put one in. Also, like newcar31 said, use a synthetic oil. Mobil 1 is always my choice.
Finally, I have a 2001 VR6 Jetta with 28K on it with no major problems. No window issues, no rattles, no check engine light etc. The rear brakes are wearing a bit fast and the manual tranny synchros are annoying at best. But the car has never left me sitting ANYWHERE. In fact, overall I love my car. So to come on a forum about Jetta problems and ask if you should get one is really putting yourself into a biased inquisition. The fact is, ANYONE can get a lemon. As a number of people on this forum can attest to. But I also had a 2000 VR6 GLS with ZERO problems to 17K when it was wrecked. So my advice to you is to jump off that fence and go buy a Jetta. Also, get one with the 17 inch wheel package and "sport" suspension. You'll be glad you did.
I wonder if I need to rethink that.
???
Shouldn't be anymore than the 2.0L Jetta. They both have the same oil filter, but the 1.8T requires a little more oil. Synthetic, if you choose it, is more money too.
It's bad for the car, your wallet, and the environment to let a car idle for 10=15 mins. a day! You realize how much that car's polluting the air and wasting gas, just sitting there? Think of it this way, the whole time you are sitting still, you are getting 0mpg.
So far:
Impex $90
Snap-On kit: $130
I wonder if I need to rethink that.
???
You'll rethink that when you come out one day and your car is gone!
: O
I wonder if I need to rethink that.
???
You'll rethink that when you come out one day and you car is gone! : O
?????
This is not meant to start a flame war. It was all in jest. So please forgive me...I couldn't help it.
I'm getting mine from TDIclub.
I guess you city slickers have a different outlook on life!
On Monday, I will be going to first dealership to complain to them about not fixing my car and try to get back the rental charges they made me pay. Goes to proof, you must shop around and get second or third opinions whenever possible. I hope the car remains in good shape and that the check engine light remains off.
Happy Holidays to all!
The POWER r&p will feel very light as compared to the superior MANUAL r&p. I know several folks that tried to own a Honda or Toyota and went back to VW because the the roadfeel that the VW has. One of the strengths of VW is the feeling of being in touch with the road. (Favernuegen...sp?)
I always LOVED that MANUAL r&p the roadfeel was superb (any my forearms were always exersixed in parking-lot manouvers ;-)
To answer your question more fully, there MAY be some adjustments on the power steering rack to improve the roadfeel (reduce the 'lightness') The only time POWER steering is needed is when the vehicle is stopped. Once underway, the steering should REDUCE the power-assist so there is some roadfeel. (All good drivers NEVER turn the steering wheel when the vehicle is stopped anyway)
Some vehicles claim "variable assist power steering" and that is exactly what they mean. (less power-assist while the vehicle is moving to improve roadfeel)
there/=/their
A Christmas present from me to you.
VWoA recently offered me a "buy-out" deal on my 2000 GLS 1.8T. First off, it has been a wonderful car in every aspect except one; the MIL came on about 12 times between 12K and 32K miles (the point at which I said no more). The first MIL turned up a burned out air exchange valve in the intercooler, and the mechanic discovered a plastic air shield mistakenly installed in the factory. It doesn't belong on turbo models and restricted air flow to the intercooler. After the repair, they assured me the unit wouldn't suffer long-term damage. Since then I've had a host of air system/emissions valves replaced: two other turbo air valves, fuel/air cutoff, hooty valve, boost presure valve. Vaccuum leaks, turbo leaks, bad connections also resulted after valve replacements. At end I couldn't drive 200 miles without another MIL and the frequent trips to the dealer were really wearing on me. Finally, no one knew why the check engine light kept coming on, so they relaced the entire ECM!!
The engine never ran poorly. I ran out of warranty and some of the parts weren't covered under the powertrain, but VW paid for them all! I worked with the dealer's GM who brokered a deal with VWoA - my car's list price minus depreciation applied toward a new VW. $16,200 is over full retail, and when applied to anew car plus my loan balance, I came in at $4000 UNDER invoice on an '03 GTI 1.8T with 17" wheels, leather, sun roof and monsoon. Not a bad deal, huh?
I was surprised at how well VWoA did considering the horror stories poeple tell about customer service. If anybody has more questions about my experience, just ask. I'll post in the 'Jetta' section, too. Hope everyone still happily motorin'! Oh, and the GTI is pocket rocket!! I love it.