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Comments
Then again, given their talent/experience level this year, maybe not ;-)
That's what I meant by the Cubs remark -- I was thinking back to the hapless Cubs of the '80s. Today, they're much better, while it's going to take a looonng time for the Indians to get back to late '90s form.
Mark
The TDI does make a lovely whistle sound. It reminds me of a sound the 1973 Super Beetle that my husband owned made.
Ok--on to my question. I am curious as to when it is recommended to replace glow plugs. I asked the dealer about this and he said they should last until 100,000 miles. The maintenance book does not mention glow plug replacement. Is it something that is done at a certain mileage or just when problems are experienced??
Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
Stacey
The "glow plugs" are simply electric heating elements... if they still get hot, why replace them? Do you replace the heater elements on your stove after heating 100 pots of soup? OF COURSE NOT If they get hot when you turn them on, they are doing their job.
There is hardly any rubber to protect the wheel.
It costs more for the the wheels and for the tires AND they are very susceptible and unforgiving when pinched over a curb or pothole.
There is a REASON that engineers have used wheels with at least 3" to 4" of rubber to protect them for over 30 years.
SURPRISE! This is just a way for tire and wheel manufacturers to spiff up their product line. Like many sales-fads, there is little benifet except for the people SELLING this stuff for 3X the price of the older products.
Read any of the Jetta test-drive articals and they all say that the standard 15" wheels have the BEST RIDE. A larger wheel makes for a harsh ride. (because of the stiffer sidewall in the low-profile tire)
This is sorta like those toothbrush ads trying to sell some fancy bristle-design. IT IS ALL SALES HYPE. The 67cent toothbrush works just as well as the $7 one.
Surprisingly, the 15" tire bubbled from potholes and none of the others did. I have 16s right now, and find them to be a happy medium.
At the end of the day on Friday the dealer service called and confirmed that there was a problem with both. They were not sure if the transmission issue was electrical or if I had a bad transmission. They told me that they would need to run some diagnostics and get together with VW.
The dealer was nice enough to give me a '02 Beetle to drive while my Wagon was in service.
Today is Wednesday and we are still at the same point. Still running diagnostics and waiting for VW to tell the dealer what to do.
I told the service rep that I would rather have a new transmission than for them to open it up and screw around.
Anyone have any suggestions????
Thanks
thanks,
brian
I know this thread only exists for people who are having problems, which is a small percentage of all owners, but I'm just curious how reliable you would consider the Jetta to be. I also wanted to get an idea of any known problems I should keep any eye out for. I'll be running a CarFax report on any car I consider.
The other cars I'm looking at include the Honda Accord Coupe, the Toyota Solara and the Honda Prelude. Thanks.
I have had MANY issues since my first oil change. The dealer left my plug out and all my oil ran out and my engine froze. They say there is no engine damage. How am I to believe that?!?!?!?! It hasn't acted/drove the same since. Then the whole window thing with it rolling up and down when I try to do the opposite. I had a rattle in the front end that the dealership for over a year I have been trying to get them to fix and they tell me I am hearing things!!! GRRR! Then at the same time my sunroof has it's issues when it closes and they say there is nothing wrong with it. Oh yeah, I forgot...I just had to replace, yes replace my rotors on the rear and brake pads. Any one have suggestions?? VW customer service is a PAIN in the !*@. I get no help from them and or the dealership. I did get the rattle in the front fixed and my sunroof from a totally different dealership! YAHOO
Did they actually tear apart the engine and check it out? Did they perform a compression check? Was the OHC checked for scoring? What about the valve-adjusters?
If you MUST replace the throttlebody, get one off of a wreck at a salvageyard. It wont be more than $100.
BTW... there is voluntary replacement (sorta like a recall) on the ignitor coils. You may not have to pay for that.
You mention that the "problem has resurfaced" somthing I have done in the past for such things is to show the receipt from the last repair... if the problem is still there OBVIOUSLY the last part they replaced must not have been the problem and it was their durn fault for replacing the wrong thing.
I am soooo glad that I am college trained in electronics, mechanics and other engineering disciplines. There are a LOT of mechanics that will rip you off and do shoddy work at the same time.
Now, for a real solution. I would get VWoA involved, definitely. I would at least make them replace the engine in the car if it froze due to their negligence.
The service department has been no help,
they never can "recreate" the situation. I keep
my tank filled, etc. etc.
I am anxious for any suggestions.
Thank you
Inge
In this case, be careful what you wish for. Personally I'd opt for an extension of warranty on the engine block or a replacement factory block rather than taking apart your old engine.
If indeed the engine "seized" then it is hurt, since what we have here is a large number of horses brought to a sudden halt by friction. This has gotta hurt.
You might also check to see the limit of damages allowed in Small Claims Court in your state. SCC is very sympathetic to consumers as a rule.
It is inexcuseable to leave a drain plug out---unacceptable, no excuses, no whining. It is a huge mistake and the dealer must make it right.
From what you are describing, I would start looking at the ignition system. (Distributor, Wires....etc.) One easy "test" you can do is to open the hood at night and let the engine idle. Somtimes you can see "arcing" from the plug wires. (the energy that is supposed to be going to the sparkplugs is 'leaking' out of the wires.)
If you are at all inclined, purchase a set of plug wires and install them. They are not terribly expensive and it certainly cannot hurt the situation.
HUMOROUS STORY: (I thought so anyway 8-)
The other day, my 20-year-old daughter knew she had a bad plug-wire... she told me that she went into the auto-parts store and asked to purchase ONE SPARKPLUG WIRE After a good laugh, they were kind enough to explain that plug wires come in "sets" and sent her on her way with a box of new plugwires... she installed them and her 207,000 mile vehicle was once-again back on the road.
( How was she to know that one cannot purchase ONE SPARKPLUG WIRE? )
Meade
Her favorite car is the Plymouth Barracuda (the Hemi Cuda) Ever since she saw them at the dragstrip pulling the front wheels about 6 feet off the ground when they are launched. (I gave her a 1/18 scale Hemi Cuda as a gift)
Just a couple of weekends ago, she and I put a new radiator in her car. (Over 207,000 miles on it!) She can drive a manual tranny better than some truckers 8-)
Over the years, I have picked up some of her less-technical terms.... I now prefer to all it "brake Juice" instead of "brake fluid".
And YES... her first car was a VW golf... which she bought from her big brother.
Thank you for the suggestion, I will follow your advice.
The weather has cooled down, and the Jetta seems to be running.
Inge
Well, I picked up the car and when I merged onto the highway realized that I had no acceleration. I started off as normal--but when I pressed the accelerator moderately--it offered nothing but slow, gradual acceleration and the engine ran at a high rpm. I immediately called the dealer who felt it had something to do with the throttle adjustment and offered a rental car. I had an appointment to get to and asked if it was safe to drive home and if it would do any damage to the car--he said yes and no respectively. On my way back to the dealer this morning my check engine light came on. Also, when I turned the car off at home last night and at the dealer this morning I got a loud clunk.
I left my car running in the service bay at the dealer and had them see that my check engine light was on and listen to the clunk when I turned the car off. The service advisor I spoke to this morning explained the whole timing belt tooth thing and feels it was not adjusted properly when installed. He swears a test drive was done-but probably at a low speed and the problem was not detected.
My questions are: 1) Should this have been detected by the mechanics during a test drive. 2) Was any damage done to the car by driving it in this condition? 3) Has anyone had a similar problem when having a timing belt replaced? I would think they do this routinely and at their labor rates should be able to do it correctly the first time. Any input is appreciated.
Stacey
Bought the car in June 2001. Nearly all mileage is highway. The car has been carefully maintained.
1) ABS light came on and after repeated trips to dealer they finally kept the car,( for 4 weeks), while waiting for a new ABS module. I later found out that there was a recall on that module.
2)Automatic transmission would not come out of park. A call to VW help line had us go through a series of steps to get the car into drive. VW help line agent said it was a known problem and was able to help us immediately. Dealer said they had never heard of the issue, but were able to determine that a faulty "brake light switch" was the problem. I've since heard of several people having this problem.
3)Rear disc brake pads completely worn out at 35,000 highway miles. Front brake pads are still about 80%. I've seen this complaint from many Jetta Owners.
4)After putting automatic transmission in reverse, car does not move. This was happening intermittantly. Dealer service duplicated problem and after having car for 2 weeks, replaced the TCM (transmission control module).
Dealer called and said car was ready. When we went in to pick it up, the check engine and glow plug warning lights were on (They were not on when we took vehicle in). Dealer isolated and replaced faulty ECM module.
5)Dealer still has car because TCM module did not correct auto transmission problem. When their service Tech took it for a test drive, he discovered that car wouldn't move after being put in reverse. Now they are talking about rebuilding or replacing the transmission (under warranty).
Our Jetta is less than 2 years old and has been in the shop for over 7 weeks.
We are thankful that we purchased the extended warranty, which thus far has paid out about $1500.00 for the electronic modules.
We will never buy another or recommend Volkswagen.
Thanks for all your input and I will keep you all up to date on new news.
PICTORIAL OF WHAT MAY HAPPEN
http://www.difatta.com/images/pistons.gif
It is very possible that a piston may hit a valve and cause SERIOUS DAMAGE. (broken metal parts in the engine!!) This is usually sensed as a mechanical clunking or rapping sound from the engine while running. The only way to tell if there is damage is to pull the head off of the engine and visually inspect the valves and pistons.
The following photos are a direct result of a mal-adjusted timingbelt installation...
PICTURE OF HEAD WHERE VALVE BROKE OFF
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/MOGolf/Mvc-001f.jpg
PICTURE OF BROKEN VALVE PEICE ON TOP OF PISTON
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/MOGolf/Mvc-003f.jpg
There's a number printed on it: 807688. Is this a part number? Will I be able to get this from a dealership? Any clue how much it will cost?
Good news that my bumper to bumper expired two weeks ago eh?
And to add insult to injury, when I went for a test drive last night (before noticing on my way home that my car was again not fixed) the brand new GTI I was looking at had electrical issues with it's locks, the rear hatch wouldn't unlock from either the remote or the switch on the driver's side door. Nice quality, eh?
I have two cases open with VWoA over the past couple of months, a certified letter containing my saga and a warranty non-compliance form on the way to VWoA, and I'm planning on contacting the BBB next.
The part that really burns me is that I really do like VW's, but I'm sick of scheduling my days around whether or not I'll have to bring my car to the dealer in the morning!
Part cost $14 after tax.
I tried to get it covered under warranty (25 old months this May but this dealer doesn't know that since I didn't buy it from them). The service manager asked me how many miles I have, 20, 900. He says, "Nope over 20,000 can't do it."
Good grief. $14 isn't worth keeping a customer happy I guess. Well I bought it myself and snapped it in place. Perhaps I should have bought two for when it breaks again?
I absolutely love my Jetta but my dealer experiences have been poor.
Based on my first-time experience with vw, discussions with other new vw owners, and reviews I've read on the internet and consumer mags, I don't plan on buying vw or german anytime soon until their reliability record and customer service improve.
I agree that most Japanese cars are boring. (That hasn't stopped the constant offers I get about my parents' 1990 Toyota Camry.) Had the IS300 or G35 been available in 2000, I would not be driving the Jetta GLX. I still think the jetta is a great-looking, peppy car with lots of first-class qualities. I just don't want to have to take a $24k car in for servicing so often.
1) Has any else “been a Honda person” bought a VW and regret it?
2) Do you think the Passet or Jetta is more reliable?
3) I know the Jetta is made in Mexico and Passet in Germany. Does that make a difference?
I hear of all these electrical problems. I have never had any problems with any Honda, but want something different
To answer your questions:
1) I wouldn't say I regret my VW purchase but going from a Honda to a VW is a change and one that I am still adjusting too. It doesn't help that my dh is a 100% Honda guy and wishes I had bought the Ody van over a Passat sedan.
2) More reliable than Honda? Overall- no. The Passat seems to be more reliable than the Jetta. However every car maker has its lemons; my Civic had 12 problems the first 7 months of ownership. However dh has had zero problems with both Accords that he owned (currently a 2002).
3) It does seem to make a difference. There are many more Jettas with problems than Passats however, that doesn't mean the Passat would be problem free. I personally prefer the styling, handling and look of the Jetta over the Passat but needed the room for my 6 year old and baby due in Dec.
I actually had an electrical problem with the radio on my 2002 Civic EX. So again, no car is immune. I have to admit that I am waiting for a problem to occur with my Passat but as of yet *knock on wood* 1000 miles later and I'm still good to go.
My husband's Accord is so very different than my Passat. Test drive both and then decide. If reliability is high on the list, stay with Toyota, Lexus, Honda, Acura. But don't rule out a VW yet- their reliability is improving.
Carrie ~2003 1.8T VW Passat in Candy White
Although the Honda was reliable, I feel that reliable=booring. My priorities in a vehicle go beyond "reliable". I wanted somting that was FUN to drive.
The Honda also rusted badly. (The VW has a 12-year, UNLIMTED milage warrantee)
1. Haven't regretted my Golf TDI yet.
2. Don't know
3. Mine was assembled in Brazil. Key word is "assembled." The majority of the components come from Germany to its final assembly location, whether still in Germany, Brazil, Mexico, etc.
Feb. '03 I purchased Jetta 1.8T '03. After 3 months, MIL light went on, not blinking, just stayed on. Brought it in to local VW dealership here in the New Orleans area, and unlike some of the posts I have read on this board, the dealership was very cooperative. Gave me an Enterprise car to use until work completed. When I got the car back, the following was done:
1. Remove and install ignition coils (4 06B-905-115
Anyway, the coils they installed were (4 06B-905-115-J); they set readiness code, and road tested car x2.
Now, a month later at 4300 miles, the MIL is back on. I took it in to dealership...another Enterprise car and they will get back with me in beginning of next week.
Two Questions:
1. Is there something I should know or ask them to check, or be sure that they check so the light does not keep coming back (I'm very familiar with all the engine coil problems written on the boards)?
2. I have been a Honda driver all of my life and I'm wondering if after I get my VW back if I should trade for a Civic EX '03? (mostly because in about 15 years I have never had any problems with the Hondas except for routine preventative maintenance?
Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
I actually was faced with the choice between the Jetta vs the Civic. I would have probably chosen the Civic EX03. Gas mileage and price were fairly similar. Reliability on the Civic is almost legendary.
The reason why I chose the Jetta03 was for the TDI. This one fact alone was worth the "risk". So far after 5k mileage all is well. I fully expect this vehicle to go the distance. (12-15 years est 360,000-up) So while the verdict is still out, this vehicle so far has been trouble free and new car issue free.