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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jaesee75edmundjaesee75edmund Member Posts: 39
    oh, i thought i was just responding to 2 different people. and, just venting, of course.
  • 99jetta99jetta Member Posts: 4
    For some reason the cassette player automatically turns itself on when you are listening to radio/CD. It comes on (no tape in it) and displays an error message. When I switch back to radio/cd it goes back to cassette in just a few seconds. I can hear the cassette player making a noise. My question is does anyone know how to fix this OR does anyone know how to get the factory unit out. I have had several people try but only manage to break a few buttons off. (Can't afford to pay to have it done). Thanks!
  • cfilkinscfilkins Member Posts: 39
    IIRC, there is a special tool that slides into the slots on the left and right of the stereo that releases it from the dash. I remember seeing it in our 02 when they added the cd player since it originally only had the tape deck. Walmart or another audo parts store may have the tool to pop it out...good luck!
  • todd53todd53 Member Posts: 47
    Both reverse lights in my 98 Jetta TDI (manual transmission) quit working at the same time. I replaced the bulbs and fuse, but to no avail, they still do not work. Any ideas as to what the problem might be? I was hoping to avoid putting it into the shop by correcting this myself. Any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • tonymrotonymro Member Posts: 7
    Having both lights fail, and remain so after replacing fuse and bulbs suggests the problem lies in the sensor or microswitch that triggers the backup lights. As to where that sensor or switch may be located, I'm guessing somewhere near the shift lever. Just a WAG...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The reverse switch is most often INSIDE the transmission. Usually can be replaced by pulling the electrical connector off of it and unscrewing it from the side of the xmission.

    One can TEST the reverse lights by pulling the connector and "jumpering" the connector. (simulating the switch closing) the reverse lights should remain on as long as the jumper is in place. If this test WORKS, then the swith is the problem. If this test DOES NOT WORK, the the problem is not the switch.

    For future reference: It is EXTREEMLY RARE that 2 bulbs will burnout at the same time. Just the fact that they both quit working at the same time tells me that somthing common to them is the problem.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Removal tools part number is T10057 for the VW tools. Around $20.00.
  • rlui1rlui1 Member Posts: 93
    I took my 2002 Jetta 1.8T to the dealer last week to have the brake light switch replaced as part of the recall. I also told them that the car idled roughly in the morning when in gear. They said it will do that if I didn't use 5W30 oil. Is this true? I'm using 10W30 in Southern California.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (rlui1) I cannot tell you if this will cure your rough idle... but I can tell you more about european vehicles and the reccommended oil.

    In Europe, it is not unusual for each engine-type to have a specified oil. In general, Europeans tend to take this in stride and use EXACTLY what is recommended (Viscosity and performance specifications)

    In the USA, most Americans tend to ignore what is recommended and use what they think is best. With todays engines, this is not a good idea.

    Even most of the US-named vehicles have recommended 5W30 for many years... but Americans keep putting 10W30 in them.

    For example, the 2004 TDI engine REQUIRES VW 505.1 oil, anything less will harm the engine. It is ONLY available at the VW dealerships. Previous to 2004, the TDI REQUIRED synthetic oil that has 5W40 and meets VW505.0 specs.

    Even Honda now recommends 5W20 oil for some engines.

    BOTTOM LINE: Use what is recommended, if you are still disatisfied with the idle, then go from there.

    You may even choose to follow the suggested oil-change intervals and start saving money, time and the envrironment. (3000 mile oil-changed are ONLY recommended by the folks that get PAIED to change the oil.)
  • rlui1rlui1 Member Posts: 93
    bpeebles, Thanks for your detailed reply. I'll use 5W30 next time. I'm not sure if the rough idle is attributed to the oil since it happened infrequently. The dealer ran a diagnostic test and found a temperature sensor and replaced it. Maybe that caused the rough idle but I'm monitoring it to see if it happens again.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    Have you experienced this? Would you like to talk to the Press about your experience?

    Jetta owners have reported accidentally ripping their bumpers off when parking too close to parking stops or curbs. A class action suit is forming.

    Please contact Jeannine Fallon - jfallon@edmunds.com today (June 2) if you want to share your story about this.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    Look for the Town Hall member quoted in the article -

    Spoiled Jetta spoilers lead to class-action suit
    A lawsuit against Volkswagen alleging a design flaw in 1999-2002 Jettas was recently certified as a class action by a Miami-Dade Circuit judge.
    http://www.miami.com/mld/miamiherald/business/8822482.htm (registration required - free)
  • mattman055mattman055 Member Posts: 57
    I have a 2001 Jetta 2.0 and I have a penny stuck in the 12 volt power outlet. How can I get it out? I'm not sure if it is still "hot" even when the car is on so I've not tried even when the car is off.

    Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    How about some chewing gum stuck to a pencil eraser?
  • mattman055mattman055 Member Posts: 57
    Woah thanks. My first visit to this board and I have a 2001 Jetta which has damage to the front spoiler because of parking curbs. Infact I have one of those units in my trunk that "popped" out. Heck I'm pretty careful when I park because its so low but there have been one or two times that it hit the parking curb and got damaged...

    I never had it repaired.. Maybe this suit will help me?
  • mattman055mattman055 Member Posts: 57
    Thanks. I tried that but it didn't work. Good idea though. Its lodged too far down and gets caught on something when I try to pull it up..

    Re-orginal question is the socket still "hot" when the car is off? If not I'll try some other ways.
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    Disconnect the battery and then give it a try!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    YES, The power outlets are ALWAYS 'hot'. We charge my wifes celphone there to save on home electricity.

    There is a dedicated fuse for each power outlet. just pull the fuse if you are concerned. (I suspect, with a penny in there, that the fuse may allrady be blown.)
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    "to save electricity"? You're kidding right?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    not really kidding, One can save substantial amounts off the electric bill by not plugging things in or unplugging them when not in use.

    Anything that can be charged in the car is almost "free" electricity because the alternator is spinning anytime you are driving.

    My daughter lives "off the grid" without any electric power available for many miles around. She seems do do very well with solar panels and batteries. She even has a computer with internet connection.

    It seems ironic that I make my living working at a computer-chip manufacturing plant yet try to save pennies off of my electric bill. I guess that is part of why I drive a TDI.
  • mattman055mattman055 Member Posts: 57
    I looked on the fuse card and I cannot seem to figure out which fuse controls the 12 volt sockets. Infact I stuck a charger in the trunk and tried many fuses, those that i thought might have been the 12volt, including the cig. one among others (i didn't try obvious ones which looked like the wipers, lights, etc). the charger always had a light on (when it was removed but plugged into the phone the light was off) so I never found the correct fuse.

    Thanks
  • lvboy1980lvboy1980 Member Posts: 11
    2002 Jetta GLX VR6 owner here. I have had a few things go wrong with my car in the 2 1/2 yrs. I have owned it. One faulty window regulator, lumbar support in driver seat broke, Monsoon system is constant problems. However, I love my car and those few problems I have had have no effect on whether or not I will purchase another VW. Driving satisfaction and style are a #1 priority for me and the Jetta delivers both. I certainly will not allow a few problems to steer me towards a Toyota or Honda! Well, to be honest, no Japanese car in my price range has impressed me in the slightest. Thats my $.02
  • basilebasile Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 jetta has a problem,the battery light comes on and the guages stop working,this only happens above 20mph,at idle every thimg works,brought it to the dealer replaced battery but still does it . Whats up?
  • jknestorjknestor Member Posts: 1
    HELP!!! I have a 1997 Jetta that has lost power to the windshield wipers, headlights and the blower. I checked every fuse in the fuse box and all are fine. Is there a master fuse or something of that nature that could be replaced? Any ideas before I take it into the shop???
  • dfurnierdfurnier Member Posts: 26
    I am storing my daughters 01 Jetta while she is overseas and we seemed to have misplaced the only key she had for the car. I called a nearby VW dealer and they were unable to give me a clear idea of what I was up against. Something about close to $200 to get a new key from Germany, and even then it wouldn't start the car. Can anyone clarify this or have suggestions.

    Thanks
  • terrterr Member Posts: 1
    ive seen this, my friend got stuck in some snow and when she backed out her bumper was torn off from both sides of the car
  • lemonjettalemonjetta Member Posts: 1
    I have 2000 jetta 2.0L with auto which does not up shift to fourth gear due to the solenoid valve#6-N93 stuck open and the whole control body cost around $1500. any ideas before I take to the shop???
  • moongirlmoongirl Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Jetta GLS and recently I've started having some issues shifting out of park. I have the ESP option and when it engages there is a yellow light with an ! and a circle around it that will light up. When I can't get out of park the little brake light with the foot on it remains lit and the ESP light comes on. So far if I shut off and restart the car a few (4 or more) times I can eventually get the car out of Park and into Drive, but the ESP light remains on. Anyone else ever have this problem? Any ideas or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have had an occasional failure of the ESP diagnostics. In my case, the problem was gone afer driving a few miles and the diagnostics are re-run.

    I happened to have an applointment at the dealership for the 20K mile service, their computer-reader was able to tell the what part of the diagnostics has been failing. They orderd a part called "steering sensor" and claim that will fix it when it is installed.

    The "shifting out of park" problem has been most-often traced to a mis-adjusted brake-light switch on the brake-pedal. If your VW does not sense that the brake-pedal is pushed, it will NOT come out of park.
  • danbendigdanbendig Member Posts: 1
    Is it possible to adjust a clutch on a 1996 VW Jetta or is it a set cable that cannot be adjusted? If it is indeed possible to adjust, can someone direct me to a reference on how to do it? Thanks in advance.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I beleive that the 1996 used a "self adjusting" cable. There is a spring-loaded self adjuster in the cable that constantly removes the slack from the system as you drive.

    Unless this self-adjuster is not working, there is very little you can do to to make the clutch operation any better.
  • 99jetta99jetta Member Posts: 4
    I have a 99 Jetta 2.0 that is leaking coolant. I have replaced the T-stat/gasket but it is still leaking. Not enough for the light to come on and the reservoir is still above the full mark but I am about to go on vacation and want to avoid problems on the road. Any suggestions? The only repair place in town is the dealer and they can't get to it until after I leave for vacation so they referred me to Enterprise Rent a Car!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Since you replaced the Tstat/gasket, I assume that you KNOW that it is leaking at that point. (why else would you replace it?)

    So, what you need to do is to pick up some gasket cement (the kind that stays goopy forever... not the hardening kind) at an autoparts store. Then pull the Tstat cover again and put a thin coat of that gasket cement on BOTH sides of the gasket and re-assemble.

    You will never have another leak at that point agian.
  • 99jetta99jetta Member Posts: 4
    I have just been told that the left rear motor mount on my 99 Jetta needs replaced. This car only has 70K miles on it. Has anyone else encountered this or know what would cause a motor mount to break this early?
  • shawnmaloneshawnmalone Member Posts: 71
    The EPA reports that VW recalled more than 300,000 cars with faulty 02 sensors. Mine should have been one of them; my car fits the description in the EPA press release exactly.

    But VW refused to cover the cost. I am writing to Customer Relations to see if they are willing to cover the recall repair. I'm posting this here in case anybody else has had this experience and is interested in my situation.

    The link below is for the EPA press release:

    http://yosemite.epa.gov/opa/admpress.nsf/0/51b9e9efe0d25b3d85256b- 3e00634d10?OpenDocument
  • ianashianash Member Posts: 1
    There are plenty of reasons a motor mount could "go bad" depending on what your guy meant by "bad". It is subjectable to engine vibrations (or could be the cause of them). EIPtuning.com has a motor mount for 99 USD new that would be better than your stock mount was new. Shop around though, they shouldn't be that expensive. It would also help a lot to know what was wrong with your current mount. A minor repair at 70k miles isn't a sign of a bad car, either. I've put 173k on mine and have had to do much more work than that on mine :)
  • vwsalesnyvwsalesny Member Posts: 1
    When all keys are lost, your dealership will have to order one from Germany. Yes, the cost is high, because you will need to bring the car in for a service appointment, to re-set the theft deterent cutoff ignition. Do yourself a favor, and order at least two, so they can code the car and both keys at the same time.
  • dfurnierdfurnier Member Posts: 26
    Thanks for the reply. Wow, this is tough. I got a key that cranks the car from VW, but of course it won't run. I was going to load it on a trailer and take it to a dealer to get the chip programmed. However, with the key on, in neutral, and emergency brake off, I can't roll the car. Am I missing something? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • shawnmaloneshawnmalone Member Posts: 71
    Doug, when my Jetta is in neutral (I have a five-speed manual transmission) and the parking brake is not set (off), it rolls. I don't know why yours doesn't. Sorry I can't offer any better insight there.

    And following up on my post earlier: You will remember that the EPA had reported that VW recalled more than 300,000 cars with faulty 02 sensors. Mine should have been one of them (my car fits the description in the EPA press release), but VW had refused to cover the cost.

    I wrote to Customer Relations to see if they were willing to cover the recall repair. I also sent a copy of my letter to the EPA. It was the copy to the EPA that got a response. EPA referred me to Jim Kamradt at VW, who has promised to reimburse me for the repair, but the check hasn't arrived yet.
  • shawnmaloneshawnmalone Member Posts: 71
    So for those of you who haven't been following my saga since I bought two Jettas in 1999:

    Yes, I have had some problems with these cars -- problems that you have read about on this board frequently, including the window regulators.

    And yes, the dealer service leaves a lot to be desired in Austin, Texas if you own a VW ...

    BUT the company has stood behind the product and with a little extra effort from me they've covered every problem I've had, even if the item affected wasn't under warranty.

    My only maintenance costs for 120,000 combined miles (both cars) have been the routine service items.
  • krjekrje Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 GLS and have replaced the O2 sensors about 5 times and also discovered that I have a bad cat converter. I have over 100K miles (highway) and this is obviously no longer covered under the warranty but it still makes me suspicious that I have had a bad CC all along and they just blaming it on bad O2 sensors.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    A bad O2 sensor can fool the computer into injecting too much fuel thus overwhelming the Catalytic converter causing it to burn out.
  • wolfmanjackwolfmanjack Member Posts: 2
    hi everyone - i'm new to the forum, so patience, please... i have done a few preliminary searches to see if my problems are local to me or pretty common across jetta owners. i have a 1999 jetta but the old body style... and its a wolfsburg.

    here are my annoyances...
    1 - radio/stereo: recently wouldn't turn on. after pulling the fuse, turning off the car, and restarting it was fine.
    2 - radio/stereo: tends to go into safe mode whenever it feels like it. in the last 2 years, its happened at least 7 times.
    3 - radio/stereo: it has sucked in my tapes and not let go twice. the 1st time it held on to it for about 6 months and randomly spit it out. its happened again and though it hasn't been 6 months, it still hasn't given it back. both times it doesn't recognize its got it.
    4 - radio/stereo: the volume knob sometimes doesn't work - not my imagination -its happened to my friends driving my car.
    5 - front passenger window - it hasn't dropped into the door - but it does have a mind of its own. if you want the window to go up, it will go up part way but then go down. and vice versa. is this the same problem as the regulators everyone's posted about?
    6 - gas gauge: sometimes my gauge slowly shows i'm losing gas, even though i'm not. it slowly returns to read accurately, but is still annoying. this has happened a few times. the most recent time - it actually went from half to empty then back to half quite quickly (like it lost power or something)... and then repeated it again but more slowly. it only corrected itself when i filled the tank.
    7. bad rear sound like the shocks - saw someone else post about this - all is well in the back end per the mechanic, yet we still here it when going over rough terrain or dips. most prevalent when carrying weight in the back (trunk or passengers).

    i'm worried that i'm starting too see the slow death of my fun car.

    has anyone else experienced these problems? any advice on how to inexpensively fix them?

    thanks in advance!
  • nancy3nancy3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Jetta (3,000 miles) and it will not go into drive or reverse directly from park. You must go from park to your selected gear then back to park then back to gear before it will work. At that point, it often lunges into the selected direction!! Took it in for repair. Still doesn't work - gave me a printout from Volkswagen telling me to go through this routine each time it happen, which is every time. Have another appointment next Tuesday. Is anyone else having this problem????
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Your problem #5 is simply the anti-pinch safety feature kicking in. Check the rubber seal areound the window. I suspect it is 'grabbing' the window so tightly that it sometimes thinks there is somthing in the way of the glass so it reverses direction. To fix, use Gimmi Pfledge.
    http://www.z3bimmer.com/OffTopic/E24Bimmer/Gummi/
  • hatemy99jettahatemy99jetta Member Posts: 3
    What exactly goes wrong when you have a bad motor mount?? I think I may be having this problem and I have about 73,000 miles.
  • hatemy99jettahatemy99jetta Member Posts: 3
    Hi There,
    Owner of a 99 1/2 Jetta GLS (new body style). I WAS the proud owner of a 95 Jetta GL which never gave me problems for 4 years other than the normal wear and tear. I thought since I had such great luck with my 95 that when the new body style came out in 99, I just had to have one. What a regrettable decision. I pray every night for my 95 back.

    1) As everyone on this website, Not 1, not 2, but 4 window regulators broke.
    2) Greasy substance constantly leaking out of doors.
    3) Cup holders broke, coin tray in back seat broke, chrome shifter button falls off, Interior lining around windows peeling coming off, 2 circle like plastics on side of Coin tray pop off, ect...
    4) Sunroof replaced 2 times.
    5) Coolant leaks
    6) I also sometimes have problems with getting out of PARK. Gear Shift seems stuck. Have taken to dealer, they state no problem.
    7) Has 02 sensor changed due to ReCall.
    8) Check Engine Light on X 1year. Have taken in, Dealer states no problem and re-sets it...Comes back on in 3 days.
    9) Replaces both front shocks.
    10) My car is not modified or lowered. Black Plastics under wheel well have both ripped off. I don't even know when.
    11) CD Player works only when its in a good mood. Tape player stopped working about 1 year ago.
    12) AC system stopped working. Took to a Radiator/AC Auto Shop, its a electrical malfunction.
    13) Lastest problem is possible Motor Mount or drive shaft issues?? Its at a dealership right now.

    Does anyone else feel my pain??? Does anyone have any suggestions??
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    How many miles are on your Jetta?
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    i had a 99 Jetta IV with a VR6. automatic. car was great for 30k miles. traded it in before it went south :)

    only had one headliner problem - it grew mold! they replaced it entirely. oh, and the beige leather seats discolored - replaced as well.
  • cathy2cathy2 Member Posts: 8
    For second time, had my 2001 Jetta towed for above reason. Both times--faulty brake switch. I see others with this problem? Should this be a recall part? Second switch only lasted a year!!
    How does a parts recall work?

    First time dealer repair cost $250, next went to local garage and told them problem (and only cost $60!!)

    On a side note, someone told me I need my ATF fluid changed. I don't see this on routine maintenance. Anyone with thoughts?
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