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I have read through all five pages of this thread and saw one comment that describes my issue. Three years ago we were buying a new Enclave and retiring our 275,000 mile Express Explorer Conversion to weekend trips. It had been starting and running rough and was overdue for a tune up. With an oil change I replaced air filter, plugs, wires, cap & rotor. Tried for the next four weeks to start it...cranked like stampeding horses, but would not fire. Tried a few more times over months, but in the end it just sat for the next three years. Two weeks ago my 97 Sierra's 350 locked up. Slow charged the battery in the Express. In 20 degree weather I tried it, cranked fine...no fire. Gave it one squirt of starting fluid and it started right up...ran and started fine for about a day, then wouldn't start. Another 1 second burst of starting fluid and ran fine for another day. I changed the fuel filter, but still the same problem. When it runs it runs fine...I was always told that if a fuel pump goes bad... stays bad. After the initial squirt of SF the first time I probably started the van 25 times without a bit of a problem...and it always runs fine after I get it started. For now I carry SF with me...but I am looking for the permanent fix...any help out there?
His message says:
"I was having the same problems around 150k miles I ended up replacing the whole distributer. There was play in the gear and shaft that was the problem. May be the answer for others here."
I can send you the repair diagram to fix it I've worked for several automotive security system audio system installations certified mecp
I have a 2006 Chevrolet G1500 Express. It had stalled out going down the highway a few times and wold not start. Sometimes I could get it to start again after 15 minutes or so. There was nothing weird on the gauges or in performance. The stall out was intermittent, as it did not go out all at once. It would hesitate a few times, stall and I would quickly shift to neutral and start again, drive a little ways, stall out, and it would not start.
I have had it to my mechanic twice now for several days at a time. Of course, somehow it would start right up for him. It only happens after driving it for say 10-15minutes. I don't know why our mechanic would not just put it up on the car light and put it in gear for a little while, but my normally very trustworthy and knowledgeable mechanic could not figure it out and quickly was over it. Having said that, that might be a suggestion for you BEFORE they are over it. Tell them to put the vehicle on a lift and put it in gear for a while to reproduce the issue.
I did get one thing from my mechanic, as he did try to start it ONE time when I dropped it off while it would not start. The blower motor and horn do not work when it will not start. This to me suggests an electrical issue.
I have noticed that the fuse box under the hood has some feed lines from the battery that are a bit corroded. The two suspicions are the Fus box and the built-in security feature/ignition switch. Since the horn and blower motor do not work, it makes me think less about the security feature and ignition switch. The headlights and dash seem to work fine.
Any ideas here?
Sincerely,
Chris
Anyway, I started the van and let it warm up for about 30 minutes. I drove it for about 5-10 minutes before it died and would not start. The horn and blower motor will not work when it does this. I just tried to start it again (7 or so hours later), and it will not start. I do have all gauges and accessories aside from the horn and fan.
I should mention that I do have a power steering leak as well. It is humanly possible that it is draining all over something it should not. I also have a fuse box under my driver's seat that I have not really looked at thoroughly. I make take the seat off and really look it over tomorrow.
Any ideas, please let me know.
Chris
Good news though... I fixed it. I'm so pumped! Thank you for chiming in. I was thinking no one was following the thread anymore.
Apparently the blower motor, horn, and I would assume the fuel injectors (?) share a ground wire. Thankfully they do, because I scoured the whole motor cavity and underbelly of the van for any bare or shorted wires and was listening for the blower motor to come on as I moved things around. I had to take the driver's seat out to get the inside motor cover off. What a pain, but I found it (attached). After watching a few of Scanner Danner's YouTube videos, I became more confident and determined that it was a bare or shorted wire(s) affected by the engine heat, vibration, and van movement. I figured it might be a group of cables since it affected multiple things.
Hopefully this helps someone else. It was a very small ground wire.
Sincerely,
Chris
I suspect you've already answered your question. You've banged on the bottom of the tank; a rubber mallet hitting there while someone tries to start the engine will cause a fuel pump that's got a bad stop spot or other failure to connect and start working. Often can get you home.
BUT often those wiring harnesses run nearby and when you're banging on the tank you're vibrating the harness and the connections.
You MUST verify if you're getting power to the pump's own connector when you have a failure. When someone turns the key, for a second the pump gets power to run to prime the pressure in the line. I have read of various problems happening with the wiring in various GM sedans.
It's just like engine stalling and the first good question if car doesn't restart is whether the spark plugs are getting spark.
If you can put the rear on blocks and safely get under to the connector at the pump, connect voltmeter to a good, non rusted ground and measure for voltage while someone turns the key. Without checking the wiring diagrams, I'd suggest that you check that the ground wire in the lines (black) are actually grounded to serve as the internal ground. I recall at least one broken ground wire on a vehicle.
I hope your pumps at least are replaced under warranty.
Are they replaceable from inside the vehicle through the floor and a service panel or does the tank have to be dropped? LeSabres 2000-2005 at least had a removable cover inside the trunk!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,