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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • candieselguycandieselguy Member Posts: 2
    No problem,
    The driver side mirror (just the mirror) pops off and is a $20 to $25 repair which can be done by yourself. Be aware that there is a defrost element in the mirror which comes on when the r.w. defrost is activated. See your dealer about this type of problem before asking a person who knows nothing about the car and save yourself a few sleepless nights. Order the mirror, look at the attachment and proceed.
  • cyber_thugcyber_thug Member Posts: 3
    ...i have a Golf GTI GLX 00, and i got into an accident(front)... and since i am paying for fixing it...it turned out that it would be alot cheaper if i get the parts myself and just let the body shop do the rest.. so i've been look'n for parts left and right but no luck till now ( actually i got the price on few parts, but each one is from a different place)...my question is that is there any place , website or whatever that i could find these body parts like ( hood,fender,bumper,ect...) by the way, i tried auto recyclers, and again came up with nothing....could somebody help me plz...i need to fix my car....
  • landerlander Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Jetta GLS automatic transmission. When driving in rain or a few times of hitting large puddles of water the dash gear indicator lights up all the gears and the transmission slips and or pops into neutral. This has happened several times. I recently used a RTV Silicone sealant on all the connections but have yet to try it by wetting down the connections. When it is dry everything goes back to normal I have not yet taken it into the dealer. Anyone have any ideas on which connector may be the culprit?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Most drivers just sow down or go around the large puddles. You are lucky you have not done more damage to your vehicle. Going through large puddles can wash be grease from the bearings or CV joints, can affect braking, can destroy the alternator and affect all kinds of other things.

    Cars are not typically designed to work underwarer ;-)
  • gnuttallgnuttall Member Posts: 2
    Quote: Have also had the window fall out, moonroof issues, starter, bad smelling A/C.....

    Window Falling out > Replace Regulator its a known problem
    Starter > Does it squel when its cold out? If yes just remove and apply some grease insode to the moving parts
    Bad Smelling AC > Replace Cabin Pollen filter and spray some disenfectant (Lysol) in the blower moter when its on.

    All simple fixes.....
  • gnuttallgnuttall Member Posts: 2
    Wiper Linkage is an easy fix. Go to www.ecstuning.com and order a wiper linkage assembly ..about $89. Took me about an hour to install.

    The linkages seize, this is a known issue.
  • paddypaddy Member Posts: 2
    Thank you Candieselguy! Unfortunately, moving the axle is pretty tough with a pop-up camper. The new 2.0 liter diesel Passat may be my answer because of the increased body weight. Any thoughts on this? Anyone?
  • bigmouthy32bigmouthy32 Member Posts: 1
    I have had my 99 Jetta since July 2004 and just recently i have started to have problems. My brake lights are not working and after reading this forum and doing research on recalls I found that there are recalls for the 2000, 2001, & 2002 jettas for the brake switch and I am going to attempt to get my brake switch covered by the recall, I will let you know how it works. Also, my wiper fluid motor does not work, i can hear the motor turning and one side tries to spit out a little fluid but the other side does nothing. also, my horn works every other time i start my car...but it does work when i lock the doors with my key! If you have any insight on these issues please let me know!
  • gentilescogentilesco Member Posts: 4
    I think I blew the fuse for my 99 jetta's power windows. None of the four work, and they worked fine this afternoon. When I went to change the fuse, they have 22 fuses in easy access, but the power window one is not one of them. Where is the fuse? If it is above, which one? I'm so confused and hate the owners manual of the Jetta right now. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
  • malexgcabmalexgcab Member Posts: 3
    I have been a japanese car consumer for a long time and I am considering purchasing my very first VW. I am requesting your help in regards to maintenance, reliability, issues, recalls. The car that I am considering has 60K miles...a bit high for the year but the car looks great.
    Please convince me to be a VW junkie. Thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It sounds as if you have found a resolution for your brake lights.

    For your wiper squirters, it REALLY sounds as if you just have a leaking hose between the pump and the windshield squirters.

    If your horn is not beeping when you lock the car, then one of the many security sensors is not satisfied that everything is OK. Do not forget that ALL DOORS must be closed including the hood and the trunk. To help isolate which sensor is not satisfied, make sure that each door will turn on the interior lights AND make them go out. If that is OK, then verify that the "trunk open" indicator works when the trunk is open. If that is OK, then the only sensor left is the one on the hood-latch.

    Also, do not forget that the "horn beep" when locking is PROGRAMMABLE and may have been turned off...in which case, dont bother checking all the door switches.
  • mkaisermkaiser Member Posts: 1
    Bought this car new in 1999 and have had the usual check engine light issues with sensors replaced along with the windows dropping into the doors.

    This is the biggest issue yet. For 3 days the dealer can not figure out what is wrong with the car other than it is misfiring. Car was bucking and engine light started to flash. Pulled over and had towed to dealer. Spark plugs were fouled and they say it is oil. Can not find oil issue anywhere but with each replacement of plugs they get fouled within 14 miles of driving. Any similar experiences and solutions?
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    The car looks great, does it mean the body is great or the power is great? If the power is great, it doesn't mean that the car is driven and maintained by the existing owner properly. You don't know how the owner drive the car. Is this 60K miles mainly city driving or not?
    I bought a Civic-Ex three years ago at 70,000 miles and has no power at all starting from 100,000 miles. So even the car looks great, doesn't guarantee it will last for a reasonable period.
    I suggest you bring the car to a German car mechanic for inspection before purchase.
    Good Luck.
  • gkortasgkortas Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I hope someone has an idea about this.... I had my rear shocks replaced about a month ago. The new shocks are very noisy, especially when the weather is cool or wet. My mechanic took the car on a test drive and heard the noise. He re checked the shock installation, but didn't notice anything wrong. The car also seems "stiff" in the back when going over bumps. Could the shocks be defective, or as my mechanic suggested, they need time to "seat in". Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    How many miles are on the car? If it is a high-mileage car (close to or over 100K),
    or if it is a lower mileage model that has been driven in an area (city, state, etc...) where the roads are poorly maintained, you might want to have the other shock components (springs, upper shock bushing, bump stops, etc...) checked out as well. If those are bad, then the new shocks won't last very long as they will bottom out at the first severe bump/pothole you encounter in the road.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Lets assume that your oil is NOT overfilled.

    If ALL the sparkplugs ae oil-fouled, the it is unlikely that oil has suddenly started to leak past the rings on ALL FOUR CYLINDERS all at once. Thus leads is to oil getting into the intake plenum.

    You did not mention which engine you have. If it is turbocharged, then most likely the turbocharger seal is allowing oil into the intake.

    If your engine is NOT turbocharged, then suspect the PCV (Positive Crankcaase Ventalation) system is allowing oil into the intake manifold.

    You could experiment by disconnecting the PCV (oil seperator) from the top of the engine) by removing the hose between it and the intake manifold. PLUG the open nipple to the intake manifold and just run a hose from the oil-seperater down to dangle in the air.

    If the above experiment "fixes" the problem and you no longer have plug-fouling, then you have isolated the source of the oil.
  • mariahjetta02mariahjetta02 Member Posts: 3
    did you have any transmission problems?????
    boy do i
  • jettblkjettblk Member Posts: 2
    looking to buy a 2002 jetta has 57k mi and there is a leak ine the back of the engine could not tell if it was tranny or not but it was on the back of the engine. any ideas what the problem is? asked the guy to take it to dealership to check it out before i considered buying. i didnt want to get in a fight with the local dealership, you know 2nd owner car warranty transfer that type of thing. let me know if you have any ideas.
    thanks
  • mariahjetta02mariahjetta02 Member Posts: 3
    the transmision is off to the right it should not be it but check the oil pan
    we know nothing of warranty transfer ours came with a limited warranty from the dealer. ( 2nd owners too)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You do not say WHICH engine you are refering to. (2.0, 1.8T, TDI, VR6)

    What do you consider the "back" of the engine? If you are referring to the side of between the engine and the firewall, there is not very much that can leak oil in that area on the 2.0L engine.

    You are wise to take the vehicle to a TRUSTED mechanic and let them look over the entire vehicle. Most oil-leaks are not a big deal... but some are.
  • kris9kris9 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Fellow jetta owners,

    Can you throw me some light on the 80k service on 96 jetta. Its a auto transmission, 2.0L 4 cyl engine. Dealer quotes 600 for Timing belt change...don't exactly know how much is it worth....

    Any views are welcomed...

    Thanks
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Why would you consider this car since it is already leaking from the engine area? Sounds like a car to avaoid at all costs!!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Timing Belt changes are around $600 at the dealer. If you can find an independent VW mechanic (or foreign car mechanic that specializes in European makes), you can probably have the same timing belt change done for $100 to $200 less. The reason the dealer charges so much is to cover their overhead.
  • jettblkjettblk Member Posts: 2
    its a 2.0, and by the back of the engine i mean the drivers side where the tranny would hook up.
    thanks
  • gsbeachgsbeach Member Posts: 1
    hello,
    I have a 1997 vw jetta with 141000 miles. I was thinking about selling it, so I had it detailed where they washed the engine as well. when I went to pick my car up, it would not start. the owner of the car detail place has a father who is a mechanic who said my car would not start because of a bad ignition coil.

    What is confusing to me is why did the ignition coil happen to all of a sudden not work right when the engined was washed. Would washing an engine cause something like this to happen? Does this make any sense? I do not know if I was being taken advantage of or if it was just a coincidence that my ignition coil went bad right when it was washed.

    if you have any advice about this I would really appreciate it to help me understand this.

    thank you!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    If the leak is coming from below the engine, chances are its a leaking rear main bearing seal (that should be replaced at the same time the clutch is replaced - to save on labor costs). If the leak is coming from the cylinder head, it could be either a defective oil pressure sensor or a leaking valve cover gasket...
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Check for cracks in the ignition coil housing. That's usually the culprit, as any water that gets in there will short out the coil.

    If the coil has cracks, it's time to replace it.
  • parabolicparabolic Member Posts: 1
    I bought a used 99 New Jetta about a year ago. I chose the car because it only had 31K miles then - it has 36K now.

    The automatic transmission is having major problems. Basically, the car does not want to change gears. If you go to put it in reverse, it keeps moving forward a bit before reversing, which is dangerous for parallel parking and on hills. Same thing with accelerating: I've had it not switch into gear at stoplights and almost gotten rear-ended on several occasions.

    I can't just add transmission fluid because of the sealed transmission, and I took it to my private mechanic and he told me to talk to VW directly. I've got an appointment at the dealership for Friday morning, and I talked to someone at VW of America this morning about trying to get it covered under the powertrain warranty - it's been 6 years, but at 36K miles it's ridiculous for the car to be having transmission problems.

    Anyone have similar transmission experiences? How long do you think a diagnostic appointment at the dealership will take? Any idea what could be wrong and how much it could cost?
  • nsasitornnsasitorn Member Posts: 2
    hi Mike,

    the same thing I think happen to me.

    first the red battery looking light came on, then the epc, abs, etc but anyway, my car just slowed down and turned off, what did you do?
  • nsasitornnsasitorn Member Posts: 2
    I just got this car and as i was driving I saw the

    generator/red battery looking light come on. after running for a bit, the ABS light then came on and then the EPC light. The car then started to stall and shut off, i had to pull over.

    can someone please tell me if they had this experience and hwta may be wrong with it. Please, i just bought the car and its all the money I had saved for a car and now I need to get it fixed and can't afford to be taken advantage of by a mechanic.

    thank you.
  • sethphineassethphineas Member Posts: 2
    Just bought a 2001 wolfsburg jetta (very psyched) but the guy who sold it to me claimed that valets and repair shop attendants wore out the battery on the keyless remote/'switchblade' key. So I'm trying to open it, to switch out the supposedly drained battery... but it's not exactly readily accessible -- any suggestions...

    Thanx for any help,

    Cambridge MA
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The VW "switchblade" remote controls are actually easy to open to replace the battery. The "trick" is knowing how to open it.

    There are pictorial step-by-step diagrams how to do it available on the internet. Do some searching on the internet. (The Edmunds rules do not allow me to put a link to it from here)
  • 1967vanman1967vanman Member Posts: 1
    please let me know what the dealer has to say.because i,ve been having the same problems with my vw .........thank you...and good luck !
  • david24david24 Member Posts: 1
    Need help understanding problem and approach by mechanic to correct car stuck in 3rd gear (5-speed manual).

    Son driving car; stick stuck in 3rd gear. Pushes it out, but then stick is floppy...won't go into any gear but 3rd. He drives home in 3rd gear.

    Take car into VW next day. They advise problem as "shift relay lever broken". Needs to be replaced.

    As installing noticed that one "relay cable" is bent. Replace both cables.

    Once relay lever and cables installed, car will still not go into gear. Advised that problem is clutch. Must have burned out driving in 3rd gear (to home ~11 miles; to shop ~7 miles).

    Clutch replaced but car still not engaging....must have damaged transmission. Cannot determine extent of problem....cheaper to replace w/rebuilt transmission.

    Help! What started out as a ~$200 fix is now ~$4000, with no guarantee of correction.

    Questions:
    - how can shift relay break? It appears to be a strong piece.
    - can shift relay break cause relay cable to break?
    - must you replace BOTH cables if one is broken?
    - can clutch burn out by driving in 3rd gear for ~20 miles....attempting not to stop/start knowing there is a problem?
    - can relay/cables cause transmission gears to break?
    - to solve this problem, did it need to be done incrementally? No diagnostics available?

    Bought car for ~$12K in Feb 2004. Now has 52K; worth may $10K operating. But need to put $4K to fix. What to do?
  • sethphineassethphineas Member Posts: 2
    Thanx, bpeebles,

    I eventually figured it out on my own, using an eyeglass repair flathead screwdriver to pry it open at the seam... I may have ruptured the gasket a little -- which may end up sucking if I ever drop the remote in the drink -- but it fit back together pretty nicely with only a little deformation of the plastic. The part I gouged runs along the female groove of the half that houses the curcuitry and so is invisible anyway -- when you snap the male half (with the key, proper) back together with it... Dealer wanted me to bring it in and would probably have loved to have charged me 100 clams for a new one!
  • pirchypirchy Member Posts: 2
    I had the EXACT same problem...just got mine back from the shop yesterday w/a replaced throttle body and new engine control module...it's a 2001 2.0 engine w/38k...just got it used 4 months ago...dunno what to do. Hope it doesn't keep happening, I think I might email volkswagen...and this is 4 years from your post...hah.
  • pirchypirchy Member Posts: 2
    I bought the car used about 4 months ago. Last week I had to have it towed because it was only going about 5mph. The dealer said that they tried to clean the throttle body, but it still wouldn't work so they were going to have to put a new one in. A few days later they called and said that I also needed a new engine control module, this was apparently covered under warranty though. They said the bad throttle body caused the computer to burn up. It cost me 600$ and I was wondering if it is normal for a throttle body to go at 38k and if I'll need another one in another 38k or if the dealer sold me a crappy car and now they're just taking more money from me. This isn't the first problem I've had. I needed new brake pads and rotors the day after I drove it home...some 30 point check or whatever they do before they sell it to you...I have the old throttle body they took out but we can't tell if anything is wrong with it. The dealer claimed they didn't know what was wrong with it either. I am just really annoyed at spending that much money on something I just bought and am thinking about writing to volkswagen to complain about a faulty part. Thanks.
  • seenuseenu Member Posts: 1
    I have recently got my car serviced for a bad brake switch recall from VW. I don't know what they did but when I got my car back, and after driving couple of miles, I found something wrong with my car, then i have realised that my car has lost its pickup. I have to press the gas hard to get its initial momentum when ever i stop at signals and the next day when I entered freeway, to my surprise to get to speed of 70mph i had to preess the gas pedal so hard that the rpm shoots to 5500, and it never touches 80mph. Does any one have any idea of what might have happened?, the dealer says they never touched the engine or any settings. Please advise me
    Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have been working on cars for over 30 years and I have never heard of a "throttle body" going bad. How does a "throttle body" go bad??? It is simply a hunk of metal with a hole in it with a butterfly valve (throttle) to control airflow. Are you SURE that it is not your MAF (MassAirFlow sensor) that is being discussed here?

    The old part they gave you... can you describe what it looks like? (how big is it? does it have any electrical connectors?)

    Not only that, it is unlikely that a "throttle body" could do anything to cause the engine-computer to go bad. A "throttlebody" is not electric in any way.
  • firstjettafirstjetta Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 95 Jetta III celebration ed. and the fuel gage is not working :confuse: . What should I check? I think it may be a wiring or fuse problem. It is my first car and I am really hoping it was a smart purchase :lemon: .
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Given the car's age, it's more than likely the fuel gauge sending unit in the tank. Fortunately there is an access panel under the carpeting in the trunk - so if you aren't comfortable replacing it, the labor charges should be reasonable (it should take anywhere from 20 minutes to 1 hour to replace the item).
  • happyjack1happyjack1 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I bought a 2001 Passat that had no driver's manual. I'm trying to figure out the following:

    1. How to change the time
    2. How tor reset the radio channels
    3. I get lousy radio reception and wanted to know if I should get a new antenna?

    Thanks in advance
  • rlordrlord Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 new body style Jetta the problem that i am faced with is that the windshield wipers have a mind of there own whenever i start the car they will just come on even when the toggle is in the off position and they wont work when i try to turn them on. They will even just randomly come on while i am driving and they will get stuck in the straight up position which obstructs my view. If anyone has had this problem and or knows how to fix it, it would be most appreciated if you could shed some light on it for me :confuse: :sick:
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I would replace the wiper relay (its a plug-in module usually under the drivers side dashboard) - check the owner's manual or a Chilton's or Bentley manual for the exact location. If that doesn't work, its more than likely the wiper motor that will need replacement.
  • vamillervamiller Member Posts: 1
    Just purchased a 2001 Jetta and there is no owners manual. Do you know where I can get a used one...they are $50 for a new one at the dealer.
    thanks
  • rlordrlord Member Posts: 2
    thank you very much i will give it a shot and see if it works
  • cphk96cphk96 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone changed the front brakes on a 93 Jetta?
    I know that it's straight forward, but is there any special tools that I will need?

    I will be changing my girls pads at her place, so I will be hauling my tools to her house. I just don't want to be stopping every 5 minutes to go to the parts store for a tool.

    Thank you
  • gormerodgormerod Member Posts: 19
    I found this posting in the Audi A4 Owners: Problems and Solutions section from June 14. It was posted by "auditech". Thought I would post it here as a "heads up" to all 1.8T Jetta owners. Some Audi 1.8T owners have had to replace their engine.

    "The 1.8 turbo engines can have a problem with sludge build-up. It's not so much inside your engine, but the hoses and pipes that run around it, and the oil pump pick-up screen....this fix right now is to see how badly your engine is plugged and either do nothing and switch to synth oil and a bigger filter - or replace the engine and use synth oil and a bigger filter. The turbo eng. just runs too hot - and most people don't know that you should always let a turbo engine cool down after a drive and change your oil frequently."
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Thanks for the update. But, this issue has been discussed in this forum for at least a year now or longer. VW sent letters to owners of 1.8t cars advising of the extended warranty on these engines. They also published a list of synthetic only oils that need to be used in VW's with the 1.8t. Synthetics cut down on sludge build up.
  • klerkklerk Member Posts: 1
    2001 Jetta with brakes that do not release fully - this happens every now and then while driving at 40mph or 70mph. Had all 4 wheels' brake shoes and rotors replaced - no change to the problem. It releases when the brakes are pumped.
    Any reason or ways to diagnose would be appreciated - it interferes with my fuel consumption!

    Klerk
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