Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

gormerod · June 2005

OK, I am new to this forum, but glad to see that VW responded with an extended warranty. However, I never received any letters from VW about extended warranties and care for my 2000 1.8T Jetta. Maybe they only included certain model years? I have been using synthetic oil for the past three years, and am considering trading it in at the end of the summer, so hopefully this won't be a problem for me.

glorycoree · June 2005

I have a 2000 VW Jetta VR6 GLX. I bought it used april of 04 from a chevy dealership with 31k miles on it. Wile test driving the car the salesguy broke the cup holder in the back seat. I also noticed the arm rest in between the driver's seat and passanger seat was broken and didn;t latch. The Cd Changer magazine in the trunk was missing, so all of these repairs were part of the closing deal. When I drove back to the chevy dealership I noticed my tires were completely bald.. which is totally illegal to sell a car in that condition. So they agreed to replace the tires. I noticed about a week after that my car made a strangly loud "humming" noise especially at a decend to 35 mph. OK.. called chevy... they said "Oh it's new tire noise" This seemed to sort of make sense to me so I accepted it and went on my way. Since then.. I have put 20K on my car and am now at about 53k. I've had two blown out tires. I got stranded on new years after I had placed my car in park and then the car wouldn;t come out of park. I noticed my brake lights wouldn;t work and then the EPC light came on. I researched this and found a recall on the Brake switch.. and ended up having both recalls fixed. So, the other day my car throws the check engine light on and it says emissions workshop! I figured it was an O2 sensor. I made an apt with VW on sat for monday. I also decided to put on my drop off bag with my key in it that my car makes the humming noise at 35 mph and was concerned at this point that it was a transmission issue. My car also "jumps" sometimes between first and second gear and that was also noted on the drop-off bag. I get a call Tuesday and my o2 sensor needs to be replaced, along with my fuel pump relay and the humming noise is a transmission issue and the transmission needs to be replaced. wonderfull.. just as I thought. Good thing I bought a warrenty from chevy when I bought the car. Except.. GM warrenty is refusing to replace the transmission because they want it disected and repaired. there's also a bulliten out saying that this could be a "hollow" transaxel problem. Needless to say.. it's already been a week since my car has been there. The warrenty has not authorized a single repair... I have no rental car.. and I am told by the warrenty inspector that I have to pay the 450 to replace the axel.. and if that solves the problem then I will be reimbursed for the repairs.. and if it doesn't then they will replace the transmission, but they will not pay me back for the axel. I don't think that's the way bumper to bumper warrenties work. Surprisingly VW has been behind me this whole way.. which is a change concidderably. Anyone else experienced the transmission failure versus the transaxel bulletin??

:sick: :confuse:

thejake · June 2005

Hello everyone,
I am the second owner of a 96 jetta GLS 2.0L automatic transmission. Last year I had the fluid/filter and seal changed because the transmission was slipping a little. It's been running like a champ ever since. However, I've found a leak around the seal of the transmission pan. Because there is no dipstick I have no way of knowing how low the fluid level is.I haven't noticed any hard shifting or slipping yet, but I would like to fix the leak. Before I go and buy the seal and filter kit, I would really appreciate it if someone could tell me if there are any special tools/equipment that I will need in order to drop the pan, change the seal and add new fluid. Also is there a specific type of transmission fluid that I will have to use, and how much will be required?
Thanks to all who reply.

macmini · June 2005

I am car-sitting my daughters 1999 Jetta (III) Wolfsburg (130,000+miles, A/T) and took it into a repair shop to have them look into a chronic stalling problem she has been experiencing. The car seems to stall at idle, more so when cold, but pretty much all the time. The initial diagnosis was to replace the throttle body assembly, which seemed to cure the stalling issue. Now they are getting the "check engine light" come on which they traced to a bad ECM. Does this sound legit? What would the short term consequences of not replacing the ECM immediately be? Are there other sources than dealers for the ECM? Other suggestions? TX

a77smith · June 2005

When ever I increase speed on the car, lets say about 40-50 miles the car then starts to idle once I put the car into park, when I take the car out of park and shift to reverse or drive it idles then. I have changed the air mass meter but the car continues to idle and my check engine light is still on as well. Don't what else to do. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem is with my car

firecracker1 · June 2005

I have a 99 Jetta Wolfsburg w/ 2.0L. My problem is identical to yours. Did the grounding troubleshooting suggested solve the problem? I've read elsewhere that the ignition switch may be the culprit

lena18882 · June 2005

I have a 2002 VW Jetta 1.8T with almost 60,000K on it. My alternator went bad, so I had it replaced 2 days ago.
Now, when I push on the gas pedal, the RPMs go up but the speed increases very veeeeery slowly and the engine works a lot louder. It feels same way as in cars that have on "overdrive" feature -- unless you push the "O/D" button on the gear you won't go much faster no matter how hard you push on gas. But I do not have the "O/D" feature, I have turbo engine instead, and before the replacement of the alternator, the car was fine, got up to speed very quickly with less engine noise.

I can't imagine that it has something to do with an alternator. Maybe instead something needs to be set right in the computer? I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks!

trinkets8 · June 2005

I have a 96 jetta with 113,000 miles, and it is popping out of 2nd gear. I shift into 2nd, and it feels like it is where it is supposed to be, but when I put my foot back on the gas, it pops out of gear. This doesn't happen every time, but I am still concerned. What could be the problem? :confuse:

tthompson70 · June 2005

Well over a year ago, my check engine light came on and the car proudly announced Emissions Workshop! I took it in. They cleared the codes and the light went out. The mechanic said that it is probably the catalytic converter, and that the light will likely come on again in the near future. Well it did about a year later, stayed on for a couple of days then went out again - that was about 8 months ago and now it's back! I really don't want to replace the catalytic converter if I don't have to. 02 Sensor maybe?

amakusa · June 2005

My speedometer and odometer both stopped working about a week ago, and my fuel gauge is erratic. Tach and other guages work fine. I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8T. Wolfsburg! Replaced cluster with same results, same gauges not working. Ideas??

bpeebles · June 2005

Suspect somthing that the mechanics "touched" while replacing the alternator.

firecracker1 · June 2005

I have determined that my ignition switch is bad and bought the replcement through VW. Can anyone point me to some instructions on the web or publication on how to remove the old and install the new. I asked VW and they told me no service manuals or instructions are available. They service tech told me that I had to drill the housing on the steering column to remove the key switch so the ignition switch would disassemble.

busaturbo · June 2005

OK, i bought my 04 2.0 Jetta as my first car. now, as ive had it for a year, i am unbelievably pissed at VW. Firstly and the biggest issue is that my rotors went... at 16000 miles. ive been told that this model uses 60 percent front braking and 40 rear, making it pretty obvious which should get replaced first. not just the front, all four, the rears going before the fonts. my sensors did not go off for wearing of the pads, for either set of them. The dealership tells me often times the sensors go off after there is already a problem. That funny, i always thought warning indicators help so there will not be a problem, ESP with brakes. what also surprises me is i had a 15k overhaul, and not signs of brake wear was indicated on the report. Just to clarify, when i say my rear brakes were shot, i mean that they went from absoltely fine, to grinding. probably steel to steel contact. now heres the part that get me...ive seen a few cost evaluations given by people here on how much it costed them to have their rotors n pads done, mine a grand, 1,000 smackers. This is ludicris, how can a car be that terrible?
so, now that ive ranted, has anyone heard of any TSBs that might be helpful, because i dont care that ive had the work done, i will take this dealership to hell and back to get my money returned.
thanks!

raiderfan2 · June 2005

Out of the blue the transmission on my 2003 Jetta GL stopped shifting from Park, it takes a long time to shift with the EPC light on. Since then it come and goes, what gives?

nvk3 · June 2005

(This is referring to # 3702 & 3706
Re: Jetta 2000 Misfire - Spark Plug fouling [mkaiser] )

Mine is 2002 Jetta GLS, 2.0LTR engine.
I had the exact same problem recently and took a car to the dealer a few days ago.
They replaced the temperature censor and fixed some kind of faulty on the computer but the very day after I brought the car back (which was yesterday), engine light started to flash and the car started shaking violently. Today, it no longer flashes but the engine light stays on after the car starts. They did not say anything about oil. Should I tell them to check the PCV? I asked them about the famous ignition coils problem and they just ignored me by saying it only applies to turbo engine.

Any info would be appreciated.
Thank you!

shyguy06 · June 2005

http://www.epa.gov/otaq/consumer/warr95fs.txt

if u have less than 80k mile
ur dealer should replace cat converter for free!

alaga · June 2005

Hey. My 1995 Jetta III had the same problem about 2 years ago, although it was only during a cold start. Let the dealer have the car overnight and drive it first thing in the morning. That was the only way they were able to reproduce my problem. It ended up being a sensor of some sort (O2??) and once they figured it out was a "not too expensive" fix.

airotto370 · June 2005

Hi,
My daughter's '99 Jetta (12/98 mfg date) got sideswiped and lost her driver side mirror. I want to buy and install an aftermarket replacement, what steps do I need to perform for the R&R.
Thanks in advance.
Bill

eddyrodr · June 2005

I have a 1995 VW Jetta that the speedometer works intermittently does anyone know of any problems with this yr make and model. I was told there may be an electrical problem.

chaznewjetta · June 2005

Hey i might sound like i need to be somewhere else, however, i am hoping that you all can help me. I just bought a 1999 jetta wolfsburg edition 2.0l, but that is about all i know about it. I need to know where to go to find out about my jetta and where to find parts to upgrade it. If anyone has any help, please let me know. and how do i find out what it is...gl gls, and so on. I know very little about volkswagens, but i do know that i love my new one... new to me that is. thank you those who try to help

munschie · June 2005

I have an 04 Jetta with an automatic transmission under 10K. When I go to put the car in any gear from park there is a 30 second delay before the car goes into gear. This has caused some minor damage to the front of my car b/c when putting the car in reverse and it rolls forward I before it jerks into reverse. I brought it into vw service station and they said there is nothing wrong. Is there anyone else having similar problems with there transmission. I have a meeting with a district service manager next week and would love to prove that i am not the only one with this issue.

jalbert · June 2005

I have a 1997 Jetta Trek (GL); it has 100,000 miles on it and it has held up very well. I do some maintenance myself, and I let mechanics do some.

I have a leaking trunk, as well, and it's not easy to figure out where it is leaking. With a friend spraying the closed trunk with a water hose, I inspected for leaks by crawling into the trunk via the folded-down back seat. I saw that the leak was coming from where some wiring conduit passes from inside the trunk to the trunk door. (There are two locations, along the sides of the top edges of the trunk.) I removed the dry-rotted rubber boots from around the conduit, and I replaced them by generously gobbing some silicone caulk to seal the opening. I used soapy water on my fingers to form the caulk. (It's a cheap fix, but it works.)

The caulk helped considerably, but I have recently noticed some more leaking in the trunk, even though the caulk is unbroken. The leak seems to be located underneath the trunk mat. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Jason

600kgolfgt · June 2005

Don't use caulk - use the RTV silicone sealant. It lasts much longer and does a much better job against leaking.

600kgolfgt · June 2005

I would check the serpentine belt (which had to be removed to replace the alternator) to make sure it wasn't adjusted too tight.

600kgolfgt · June 2005

Check the odometer/speedometer sensor attached to the transmission. It's a small electronic sensor (where the speedometer cable used to be on the Mk2 and earlier cars) with a transmission-driven gear assembly attached .

volatile5 · June 2005

I also have the same problem. I have a 2000 GLS Jetta and only now the AC cools air when > 2K rpms. Justinthrl have you found a solution or does anyone out there know what the deal is?

thanks for any help.... :confuse:

liquidsun · July 2005

I am experiencing the same problems with my brakes in my jetta that you mentioned.Have you figured out what that problem was?Thanks alot!

duncan9801 · July 2005

I have a 1995 Jetta III (celebration edition) that I bought used about 6 months ago. I have no owners manual for it, so whenever it does something strange (which happens more than I would like

) I don't have a refrence to look it up in. Today the temp light came on and was blinking. What does this mean???? The temp gauge was right in the middle so I don't think it was over heating, The coolant resivoir was a bit low, was that what the light was trying to tell me? I turned the car off and added some water (I was on a highway and didn't have access to anti-freeze) and when I turned it back on the light was gone. Did I fix it? Is something terribly wrong and I need to take it in? ARRRRGGG. I appreciate any help and info! Thanks.

2002jettatdi · July 2005

I have a 2002 TDI and I had the same problem and it ended up being something in the fuse panel. The replaced my fuse panel and I have not had a probelms since then. I would also check to make sure the fuse is not blown.

dlawr · July 2005

I have an 05 with the same problem. I have timed it taking over 2 minutes without shifting, and it will roll forward upwards of 10 feet while in reverse. It will then suddenly shift into reverse, and if you are not aware of what it will do, it will jump backwards quickly. I have had it for service three times, and everytime they find nothing wrong and cannot duplicate the problem. Once the initial shift takes place, or the engine is still relatively warm, it works like it is supposed to. However, if it sits long enough to cool off, it will do it. Also, if I shift it into reverse, back to park, and then to reverse, it shifts like it is supposed to.

nwspec · July 2005

Jason,

I have a 1997 Jetta and I replaced a rear taillight , assembly and it turned out that the seal around wasn't sealing properly and it's some sort of look like it was leaking from the trunk mat area. Maybe worth to look for.

Martin.

bpeebles · July 2005

The coolant lite has several fucntions. When it is BLINKING, it is not indicating an overtemp condition. BLINKING means low coolant sensed in the resivour. Usually, just adding about 1/2 cup of distilled water will fix that problem. (Tap water has too many minerals which can reduce the anti-corrosion properties of the antifreeze)

hanzerd · July 2005

Hello all. Can really use some help. I have just taken the time to read all 189 pages of posts here. Learned quite a bit. Here's my issue.

I bought my 2000 Jetta GLS 2.0 automatic with 35k miles on it in Nov. of 2003 from our local toyota dealer with a used car warranty thats good until June of 2006 or 75k miles. The car currently has 55k miles on it.

A few weeks after buying it the MIL went on. I didn't think much of it. Then the car was getting harder to start. By that I mean I would have to turn it over longer and longer before it would run. A few months go by and randomly the temp light would come on flashing. It wouldnt do it everytime but once in a great while. Then the car would sometimes not go when you pressed on the gas pedal like in the middle of an intersection when you had to wait for cars. When this happened the MIL would flash. I would pull over letting the car idle until the MIL stopped flashing and then the car would drive fine. The other issue I had is that if I got in the car and drove say to the bank or someplace where I was only inside for 15 - 20 minutes when I would come out the car wouldn't start. It will turn over fine but not start. I would have to wait anywhere from 10 - 30 additional minutes before the car would start and run fine of course with the MIL on. My warranty says I have to take it back to Toyota to fix. So in Nov 2004 I take it into toyota. At the end of the day I call them and they tell me it was my MAF sensor and it fell under a VW warranty so I didnt have to pay the deductable on my warranty but to go pick up the car at VW. I did so and when I picked it up they adv me they replaced the brake light switch that was under recall and also recommended that I replace my air filter to prolong the life of the MAF. On the way home from VW I buy the air filter and replace it.

All is ok for about three weeks. All symptoms above are gone. Then once again I get into the car from the store and it doesn't start. I wait the 20 or so minutes and the car starts and runs fine. The MIL of course is on and stays on. Randomly again the coolant light comes flashing on then turns off. Only these two symptoms return. Now a new one starts. While stopped at lights the rpms suddenly surge by 1k to 2k rpms. One time I pulled out of a parking spot at one end and without touching the gas pedal at all the car was at 30mph by the other end of the lot. I again return to Toyota and they pull the car in for two days this time. They end up telling me I needed a coolant sensor and flange replaced (under warranty) and I had "several" burned vacuum hoses and that the serpentine belt should be replaced which I agreed to (not under warranty but understandable).

This fix lasted exactly one week when we went into an ice cream shoppe for dessert and came back out and the car didn't start and of course the MIL came on. This time we only had to wait 7 minutes for the car to start. Driving home the MIL went off. Didn't happen again for a week. Same exact senario except it took 20 minutes for the car to start. Another week and it happens again. Then it starts doing something new. While idling at the mailbox pulling out the mail the car just stalls out. Started after cranking it a few times. Mil came on but as usual after sitting for a few hours went out. Another week goes by and it stalls again. A few days goes by and it stalls at a major intersection. Push it into a parking lot and it takes an hour before the car will start again. Drive it home. Next morning as I am pulling into the parking lot at work the car dies. (first time while in motion) I call Toyota from work and they take it right in. They keep it the whole day and say they can't duplicate the problem and by the time they got to it the MIL had reset itself and turned off. They plugged in the OBD and said that there weren't any codes nor none in memory. I go and pick up the car. They were nice enough to only charge me 1 hr of labor to drive the car 30 miles to try and dupe the problem.

Very Next Day which was this past friday July 1st of course the car stalls, won't start and MIL is on. I call the service rep I am on a first name basis with now and he says bring it right in but its late on Fri and they won't look at it until tomorrow (tuesday July 5th) when I am sure the MIL will be reset and who knows if it is holding a code in its memory or not.

Its almost like a fuel pump thing or vapor lock or vacuum in the fuel line. Any ideas? Sorry this was so long but I wanted to give a history of what has happened. If I could just get past this stalling/not starting thing I would absolutely love this car. I mean I still do but this is getting old.

ladydi_87 · July 2005

Hey all. I have an '05 Jetta TDI wagon with 5600 miles. The last two times I filled the car up was when the fuel gage registered a 1/4 tank remaining. Both times I put 14.25 gallons of fuel in a tank that is supposed to hold 14.50 gallons. If I really was that low on fuel, shouldn't the low fuel light have come on? I have an appointment with the dealership next week to check, what they call, the calibration. This is my first diesel and my first VW. Has anyone else had this problem?

wai · July 2005

My 04GLI I noticed that when fuel guage is a little less than 1/4 tank gas (3.6 gallons left), the fuel light will come on continuously until you pump the gas. I only need approximately 11 gallons to fully filled.
My guess is either your low fuel light & fuel guage is not working or the fuel pump
you pump the gas is overcharged.

ladydi_87 · July 2005

I've filled the car up at two completely different gas stations in two different cities. I wanted to rule out the possiblity that the gas stations didn't have the fuel pumps calibrated correctly.

jadawi · July 2005

I did a "Buyer's Option" a 2002 VW Jetta GLX 5-spd VR6, which I got brand new from a dealer in 10/01. Within the first year, I replaced the armrest closure switch twice, the starter, and the latches that hold up the front windows (because they fell into the doors). Since that time, I have had to replace the armrest closure switch a third time and had a massive leak from the sunroof, which caused a mildew smell that they could never really get rid of (it was raining in my car). I have also heard squeaking (for the last 3yrs), as if from a dry bushing, whenever I go over speed bumps, but when I mentioned it and asked them to repair, they claimed they couldn't hear it. As of last Saturday, my manual transmission went out and the car doesn't even have 32K miles on it. Since VW doesn't offer loan cars except in the most extreme circumstances, amongst my many trips to the dealership as I wait on the couches for my repairs to be finished, I have met many other disgruntled owners with similar problems with their cars. Even though all of these things were covered under the 4yr/50K mile warranty, I just don't recommend buying a VW. If I experienced all these problems in under 4yrs, can you imagine what could go wrong after that? All I know is that I'm turning this car in after my 4yr "Buyer's Option" contract is up.

jadawi · July 2005

I would try the synthetic transmission fluid, but if the noise persists, try taking the car to another dealership to get a second opinion. I have a 2002 GLX with under 32K miles on it, and I was hearing the same noises for about the last week or so, but hadn't had the time to take it in. Then the noises got worse last Friday and had some really bad clunking noises right before my transmission went out on Saturday while I was driving. I was able to use my car's momentum to pull into a restaurant parking lot and park. My car is currently in the shop having the entire transmission replaced. This is only one of the multiple problems I have had with my car. See message #3779. Hope the newer Jettas are built better.

bpeebles · July 2005

It sounds as if you are battling more than one issue.

The BLINKING coolant lite is explained in a previous append and I will not repeat it here.

All the other issues sound like either the coolant sensor (Did you install the green one?) or the ignition coil may be faulty.

To test the ignition coil, try spritzing water with a spray-botle on the coil and ignition wires while engine is idling... if the engine stumbles at all... you have found a problem.

What you REALLY need is to determine what code is being stored in the computer to make the MIL come on. That code will guide you to the underlying issue.

hanzerd · July 2005

bpeebles...thanks. The coolant light was fixed when they changed the sensor and flange on the second fix. No problem there anymore. And I don't know what color the sensor was I never saw it.

From what I was reading I was also thinking it might be the coil or coil pack but living in nevada it hasn't been wet in forever but when I speak to Toyota later today I will mention it to them to see if they have tested it out. I am just hoping the MIL goes on for them like you said so they can get the code...or at least the code stuck in the memory this time from when I dropped it off... but still no word yet.

chicks_dig_me · July 2005

I have a 2002 Jetta GLS with a Monsoon system. I parked my car at about 7 in the pm and the stereo worked fine, the next morning it wouldn't turn on... I can't find exactly which fuse it is because the scematic is unclear, i pulled the 15's and none of them were blown, the LED light that indicates the theft protection still blinks but the radio isn't getting any power...Any Ideas?
Thanks
Ryan

mjacquay · July 2005

I have recently moved with in the past two months, and have had my 2002 jetta in and out of about 4-5 different VW service shops. And I just want to start out by saying that apparently VW of America really doesn't care about there customers, and that I have yet to find even a marginally good VW service department.

About six or so months after buying the car, my wife and I would hear an occasional tinky clank after going over bumps in the road. After taking it in several times during the extended warranty, the service dept. has no idea and says everything is fine. Six months later I am crawling under my car to check out the under side of the car ( because the clanging is louder and and because it now tings when shifting from park to drive) and I find out that cover plate for the oil pan is broke. Apparently there was a stress crack in the steel plate and with the freezing and thawing grew in a c pattern around the bolt that was holding it on. The plate was only connected by one bolt and clanging around. After discovering this problem I had to point it out to the service dept. and then they fixed it.

However my main complaint is about my AC. My AC works; however, on the dashboard, the two door side ac vents don't blow out any air at all (so small it is nominal). I was told by the VW service techs ( and manager) that in the newer designs the two main (center vents) have a fan behind them which give a greater flow and that the two side vents will put out less. All of this makes sense, but my car had no real flow out of the side vents. It took my three trips to the dealer to get some one to show me ac air flow out of the vents of another 2002 on the lot, so that we could compare the two. And guess what, my care was significantly worse than the demo car they used. Even the service tech and service manager came out and expressed concern about it. But here is the catch.....most of the ac stuff should be covered under warranty, but the only way to see if there is a crimp, break, or unhooked hose is to rip out the dash. If they take out the dash and find nothing to be warranty covered I have to pay a diagnostic fee of big dollars. I have been on a never ending catch 22 loop with customer care (VW of america) and the local dealership of where I currently live. Is there any advise for me to get this fixed since the vw service techs have expressed a problem yet are unwilling to fix it?

sandro · July 2005

sandro · July 2005

I have recently purchased a 04 Jetta TDI and I live in Arizona...It has been leaking from the bottom of the doors.....I have been told that VW has been using a light type of coating or seamed to be grease to use for sound proofing on the inside of the doors....It has been fine until the temps had reached 110F +....does anyone know or had this problem???

bpeebles · July 2005

That is not really a "problem", it is the factory anti-rust treatment oozing out. Dont forget that VW is one of the rare automakers that has a 12-year/unlimited-miles corrosion warantee.

I, for one, considerd the corrosion warantee a BIG PLUS when I was looking for a new vehicle. Around here, it is the rust that limits the life of a car.... not the milage.

Although none of my vehicles has ever seen 110F, I have read that the oooze can make a real mess of ones pantlegs. I also have read that the oozing will subside over time.

I wonder if any of you cars has been expected to start at -20F? ;-)

sandro · July 2005

Thanks for the info. As for my car seeing -20F. Not with me in it....I cant stand anything below 30F!!...I have read that they can get hard to start. Does any of the TDI models have block heaters?

bpeebles · July 2005

TDI does not have "block heater" from the factory... but I added one and beleive me, it is plugged into that timer every night it is below 0F.

I guess you have never needed the heated mirrors nor the heated windshield squirters either?... I take advantage of them all the time.

1997jettagls · July 2005

My 1997 Jetta has several issues:
Right blinker blinks too fast.
I pulled some fuses to check for faulty fuses and my radio went into anti theft mode and I cant get it to work. The code doesnt work.
Every time I shift gears I hear this vibration it sounds like through the muffller?
windows have been fixed twice and they keep breaking. falling off the holder?
It has only 97,000 miles and I had to change all the hoses(air hoses) all cracked?

Thanks for your help!

hlecover · July 2005

It's fuse #42, a 25 AMP fuse. This same thing happens on my '02 Jetta about once every three months. Just take it out and wait a minute or so, put it back in. I even once had the dealer install a new radio while it was under warranty, as they believed that would fix this problem, but it didn't. It's a quick and easy fix, just annoying.

stang02 · July 2005

I have a 95 Jetta III and as I was driving it yesterday, it would not upshift from 3rd to 4th. When it downshifted, it was very rough, almost like a manual downshifting too soon (the transmission is automatic). I tried to check the fluid level but couldn't find a dipstick. Any ideas on what could be causing the problem? Any help is appreciated.

Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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