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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    from your description, it sounds as if you have already traced this to the DRIVERS door. I wonder if you have noted if the interior lights are working "as expected" with the drivers door?

    In any case, the door sensor is located within the locking mechanism of the door. Most folks have corrected problems such as yours by either adjusting or replacing the affected components within the door.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I say - go for it. Especially since their maintenance schedule doesn' t require a timing belt change until the 105,000 mile interval (way too high, IMHO). Based on my experience (4 VWs), timing belts on the older VW engines (especially the 1.8 liter 8v and the 2.0 liter 8v) normally last around 80,000-90,000 if the car is highway-driven, or 60,000 - 75,000 if the commute involves a lot of stop-and-go driving. There should be no reason for the 1.8T timing belt change interval to be over 90,000 miles at the maximum (which includes a water pump change as well)...
  • krisalpskrisalps Member Posts: 3
    When i bought my 2001 jetta, only panasonic made a compatible CD changer for the vehicle and i had to buy a special cable for it. I was told by over 5 different electronics places (Best Buy, Soundtrack, etc) the same thing, so i rolled with it and didn't have any problems.

    Be sure you have a compatible after market CD changer.
  • brisco_8brisco_8 Member Posts: 2
    My dad just bought me a used 2004 Jetta (manual) that was a demo for the dealership and had only 10 000 kms on it. I was at a stop sign, and tried to put it into 1st gear and it wouldnt go in it juss rumbled. I tried the other gears and they wouldnt work either, I tried reverse and the car shot forward and died. I tried starting it again and the whole car was shaking like crazy. I took it to the dealership and they said that I blew up the clutch. With 10 000 k's on it? Yah right. I had only driven it 320 kms since i got it and it did this... It comes back from the dealership tomorrow with me $1500 poorer. Has anyone else had a problem like this before?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    My guess is that someone trashed the clutch before you purchased the car - a lot of drivers (who can't drive a clutch) took the demo for a test drive between the time the car was delivered to the dealership and the time the car reached the 10,000 mile mark... :mad:
  • brisco_8brisco_8 Member Posts: 2
    I think it was driven by one of the owners of the dealership, like it was a demo car for them, not a test car... Either way though... that shouldnt happen. :(
  • mrmojocyclemrmojocycle Member Posts: 2
    my 97 jetta trek does the same thing. I'm using a piece of styrofoam to hold the high beams on, in addition my wipers and fog lights are affected too. I tried replacing the headlight switch but no go. anyone have any success solving this seemingly common 97 vw issue? :mad:
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    What happened to the warranty?

    Since they had it for 10,000 km and you for only 320, if they are saying it failed to due to abuse it certainly would seem reasonble to assume that it just may have been abused during those first 10,000 km. Did they inspect the clutch before you took the car? If not, what evidence do they have that you were the cause of the problem rather than them?
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    This clutch problem should be under the warranty. No way a clutch will only last for 10000 miles even though it might be abused by previous drivers. My civic's clutch can last for 134,000 miles enough it is driven by my two teenagers. Try to negotiate with VWOA for the reimbursement.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I agree. I just got the original clutch replaced on my 1997 Jetta Trek at 140,000 miles. Get everything you can out of VWoA - and good luck...
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Agree...and my experiece with clutches has been they have all lasted the life of the vehicle so far. None were VW but...

    1989 Plymouth Voyager bought new, donated with over 120,000 miles and original clutch still working.

    1986 Plymouth Horizon bought new, donated with over 120,000 miles and original clutch still working.

    1995 Ford Contour bought with 70,000+ miles, now has over 130,000 and still running with, I assume, the original clutch.

    1996 Ford Contour bought with 70,000+ miles, now has over 100,000 and still running with, I assume, the original clutch.
  • tebaker1980tebaker1980 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a used 97 jetta and the car is in spectacular shape yet my fiance was driving our car which is a 5 speed. She is a new driver with a manual. If you get answers about your clutch problem because i am experiencing the same thing. Can you let me know what the mechanics told you about your car?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I concour with jeffyscott... I have NEVER warn out a clutch on any vehicle. (all with over 150K miles on each of them) My wife and Daughter also drive manual xmissions with no clutch wearout problems.

    The "big secret" is to NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE until the vehicle is moving. After several weeks of this "practice", you will begin to understand the feel of the clutch. Revving the engine when starting off from a stop is a big NO-NO. One must have patience to wait for the vehicle to start rolling.

    As an example, listen to the engine of a professional driver (trucker) as they start off from a stop. They NEVER-EVER rev the engine up until AFTER the clutch pedal is released.

    It is the HEAT from friction that wears out a clutch. If you keep clutch-slippage to a minimum, then there is no heat.

    More manual xmission tidbits...

    After first starting a cold engine, put into neutral and release the clutch pedal for at least 30 seconds. This gets the oil-pump in the xmission pumping and lubricates the inside of the xmission.... then start driving.

    The throwout bearing will wear out if you keep the clutch depressed. If you will be sitting still for longer than 30 seconds, put into neutral and release the clutch pedal. Use the BRAKE to hold the car still...never the clutch.
  • jetta92ownerjetta92owner Member Posts: 8
    Two topics here - I'll try to be brief. In another thread somewhere, I saw references to a quart of oil being used every 1000 miles on someone's new Jetta. I own a 1992 Jetta GL, it has over 187,000 miles on it, runs like a top and, yes, it does use oil. Yes, there might be a slight leak - but it has never, ever given me problems. I have more problems with the CV joints than I do with the engine using oil. I simply add oil. End of story. How much oil? Every other stop to the gas station (about 1000 miles) I check it and the car invariably needs about 3/4 of a quart. Not an entire quart. It runs good in every other respect. Now - Part II: the car has a 5 speed transmission. Do I need to add oil to the transmission - yes or no? I know I need to add motor oil to the engine but what about the transmission? Yes or No? I can't seem to get a straight answer from anyone. Now, tell me, if your answer is Yes: where do I add it - from inside the engine compartment or underneath the front of car? And now tell me this, IF you say No - WHY is that? I hope someone can give me a fully qualified response soon - today is August 12, 2005. Thanks very much. Ed My email address is EM935YHF@aol.com.
  • botkillerbotkiller Member Posts: 1
    In reference to the access panel under the carpet of the trunk for the gas gauge controls, does anyone know if this same thing applies to a '97 jetta Trek (GT) edition? My gas gauge is totally wonky; sometimes it reads right and other times it bounces back and forth a bunch - it drives me nuts because I can't tell how much gas I have... this just started but I really don't want to have to tell when I need gas based on my tripometer.

    Thoughts much appreciated ! Thank you!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I will attempt to answer your questions as best as I can determine what they are.

    Do I need to add oil to the transmission - yes or no?
    Not unless it is leaking.

    IF you say No - WHY is that?
    Because if it is not leaking, the xmission lube level will not change.

    HOWEVER: Since you say that you have 187,000 miles on your Jetta, I would suggest that you consider CHANGING the xmission fluid. (Use only VW manual xmission lube...which is synthetic)

    BTW: It is not uncomon for CV joints to need replacing after about 90,000 miles.
  • perchperch Member Posts: 1
    I recently changed the spark plugs on my 2001 Jetta. One plug was hard to access and I mangled the metal boot slightly trying to remove it. I think I may replace all wires anyway, but am wondering if there is a tool sold for removal of these boots.

    Thanks for any assistance.
  • eklundeklund Member Posts: 3
    my wifes 2000 jetta vr6 has one of the parking brake cables frayed at the end just as it goes in the cable out by the wheel causing the brake to stick on I had it on the lift yesterday and without taking every thing apart it looks as if you have to drop the exhaust to get the cable down or can i just take of bolth ends and feed it out of the cab to the wheel up under the heat shield because that does`nt`t look like a simple job to remove any one else had this problem
  • sp3sp3 Member Posts: 5
    The following contains information about my visits to the dealership regarding door vibrations/rattles when the stereo is on. The rattle occurs when the music is on whether or not the car is stopped, parked, or being driven. It also occurs when the music volume is set at low, medium, or high. The volume must be extremely low in order for the vibration/rattle to stop. I might as well turn the stereo off. Why then did I spend more money for premium sound?

    Visit #1
    Interior Squeak/Rattles
    I stated front & rear doors rattle when music is played.
    Tech Notes: Verified concern on road test - Performed tech service bulletin 70-05-01 Added foam insulation to doors. Retested OK

    FP Number: 1KM-898-001 Description: Foam
    FP Number: 1Y0-871-435 Description: Tape

    Visit #2
    Interior Squeak/Rattles
    I stated right front door was still rattling when music is played. The Tech, my boyfriend, and I listened to the rattle and discovered the chrome seal on the door was vibrating against the window. Tech stated he would add a felt strip between the chrome seal and door.
    Tech Notes: Verified concern on road test - Added foam insulation to right front mirror housing - Retested OK
    I was very confused why the Tech did not add the felt strip between the chrome seal and door as he stated he would, especially since all three of us discovered where the rattle was coming from. Instead, he added foam insulation to the mirror housing? Very confused...

    Same FP Numbers and Descriptions as Visit #1

    Headlights
    I stated right front headlamp went out for half a day. The warning indicator came on during that time.
    Tech Notes: Removed headlamp assembly and checked all parts. Connection was loose. Tightened connections and reassembled headlamp. All OK at this time.

    Visit #3
    Interior Squeak/Rattles
    I stated my right front door still continues to rattle. Also stated felt strip was not added during last visit.
    Tech Notes: Performed felt strip insulation to left front window. Road tested OK Once again, I felt very confused. Why was the felt strip added to the left front window when the rattle was on the right front window/door? I am also very confused why the Tech states the car has been retested and is OK when the problem still occurs.

    FP Number: 533-867-910-A Description: Felt Strip

    Visit #4
    I stated front window/door continues to rattle. The Tech, my boyfriend, and I once again hovered around the door to find the rattle. Tech explained that Volkswagen will not allow him to add the felt strip completely along the door seal for safety reasons because of the location of the airbags. He was only able to cover 1/3 of the door with the felt strip.
    Tech Notes: Retested and tested other three A5 Jetta per VW instructions - All exhibit the same if not louder rattle - We are waiting to have instructions from VW Quality Tech Manager on further repair strategy. We will contact customer for meeting with Quality Tech Manager for this concern.

    I've been waiting for about three weeks now and have not heard from the Quality Tech Manager or the Dealership. I will be taking in my car, once again, for the recall I received in the mail. (Recall: 2005 Model Year Jetta with 2.5L Gasoline Engine - Inspect Engine Compartment Fuel Supply Line Clamp and Replace, if Necessary) At that time, I will ask for an update. My rattle seems to be more annoying as time goes on. The other day I was listening to Bob Marley and had to change the station because Bob was rattling too much. This is unacceptable and BS! I can't wait to see the Quality Tech Manager to discuss my DISSATISFATION.
  • bbjettabbjetta Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 VW Jetta with automatic transmission. I have been told that it is a royal pain to have the timing belt replaced, not to mention very expensive. I have been browsing postings trying to figure out about when (mileage-wise) these belts usually go and they say anywhere from 60,000-105,000 miles. Is there a typical point at which one needs to replace their timing belt???
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    If your driving consists of mostly stop-and-go city driving, replace the belt at the 60K-70K interval. If your driving consists of mostly highway driving, you can extend that interval to the
    80K-90K range (I usually change the belt at around 90K). Any longer than that, and you're rolling the dice at that point...
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    I am very sorry to hear about the issues your having with your new Jetta. Rattles are one of my pet peeves in my cars. Thankfully, both of my cars are rattle free. But, when I had a '02 jetta it rattled from about 2500 miles until I got rid of the car at 34000 miles. My .04.5 Passat had a dash rattle when I bought it and after 2 dealer visits it was finally found and fixed for good by the dealer.

    Rattles are not a serious safety issue, but can be very annoying. Most don't expect a new car to rattle. To add insult to injury you are on visit 4 or 5? and its still not fixed. Good luck and be persistant. This may be a first model year issue!!
  • jettafellajettafella Member Posts: 5
    I have the same problem and have just sent my Jetta in to get fixed, not for this problem however.... I was driving along and the ASR turned itself off and the EPC light came on indicating a problem detected within the engine management system. I went directly to the dealer and they called today to tell me that they are having to replace the wiring harness and engine management computer because they are broken....I have had the car one week, bought it at 187 miles from a 5 star rated dealership....sigh...it will be in the shop through Friday....sigh, this better not be the start of a pattern!
  • kcitykcity Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Jetta GLS with only 21,300 miles on it. I hardly ever use it but I do keep up with its maintenance and take it for for a short drive once in a while so that the parts won't stick or damage. Anyhow, about a month and a half ago, I took the car out for a drive and every time I pressed on the brake pedal to come to a stop I would feel a very strong vibration coming from the pedal; not only that but when I turn the car off, apart of the engine stays on and its drained my battery twice to the point that I now disconnect the battery. does anyone have any idea what this could be? Please help.
  • jetta92ownerjetta92owner Member Posts: 8
    Thank you for your reply re: changing the manual transmission oil in a '92 Jetta GL. However, I still need to know where do I access the transmission oil container? Does the vehicle need to be lifted up or can it be accessed under the hood? Is there a filter change involved? Are there seals that need to be changed? After driving the vechicle for as long as I have, surely there must be some do's and dont's about changing the transmission oil in a manual after puttnig over 80,000 miles on it. The reason I ask these questions is because the area in which I live is devoid of qualified VW mechanics within 50 miles of where I live, thus the reason why I go online to do my homework and research the subject. Kapish? Thanks much.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Did they end up giving you a loaner?
  • jettafellajettafella Member Posts: 5
    Fortunately that they are good about, yes I got another Jetta to drive around in the mean time...!
  • sp3sp3 Member Posts: 5
    That is very unfortunate...

    I cannot believe the wiring harness and engine management system computer are broken. You have to question is that possible since it is a new car. It 's nice the dealership gave you a car to drive around in the meantime. However, with a new car, you shouldn't need to bring it to the dealer already.

    I hope there are no patterns of problems. The car seems to run well except for the rattle. What are you doing about your rattling problem? Does it not annoy you? Sometimes, I just want to turn off the stereo because the buzzing, rattling noise is too irritating. I have a friend who has the same car and is dealing with the same problem. He, however, is not getting any response from his dealership. Not that my dealership is putting much effort in resolving the problem, but at least they say they will have the Quality Tech Manager contact me. It's been a month now and no contact has been made. Are they full of BS or what?

    Thanks for sharing your car issues with me.
  • sp3sp3 Member Posts: 5
    I will be persistant about this problem. This is my very first new car and the rattling is consistent. There's no way I can just deal with it until I get another car. VW cannot simply tell me that is the way the car is designed to operate. If that's the case, VW does not care too much about their products. A rattle should be able to be fixed. Bottom line.

    Thanks for sharing your info with me.
  • no1uknow916no1uknow916 Member Posts: 1
    Just know that you are not alone I just picked my car up because I too had the rattling in the back speaker and same fix was done. These new models are nothing but a big headache. I had the same issue with the headlights and once again was in a rent a car for a week while they replaced that module. I am trying my best to fight my way out of this car!!!
  • sallysaturnsallysaturn Member Posts: 14
    I've had a 2.5 Jetta for a week. For the life of me I can't get the trunk to close right.

    Use too little or too much force to close, and it bounces back up. Even if I get it to stay shut, usually the trunk isn't really closed. The display in the dash indicates that the trunk is still open, and only if I push down until I hear a "click" is the trunk really closed.

    I took it in to get "fixed" but the tech said that the trunk is operating to spec, and that in VW school they told him this is how the trunk is supposed to work.

    The tech also said that there is a timer in the lid latch that takes about 10 seconds to reset, and so in that time you can't re-close the trunk.

    Basically, you can't pop the trunk open, throw something in, and close it right away. I live in a part of the country where it rains most of the year and it's just going be annoying having to stand in the rain for 10 seconds so I can wait to close my trunk.

    Or stand in the rain as I try 10 times to close my trunk correctly, or get my sleeves all wet pressing down to hear the "click."

    On a car with an MSRP of $26,740 surely the trunk should be easy to close. I know on my 2005 Jetta GLS the trunk pretty much closed itself. I don't understand why they had to mess with that on the New Jetta.

    Surely the trunk on the New Jetta isn't intentionally designed to be this non-functional? I have emailed customer care about this, but if anyone has any helpful input on this matter I'd love to hear it.

    For the most part I'm just in shock that it's such a hassle to do something so simple as close the trunk.
  • mr5x5mr5x5 Member Posts: 8
    My daughter owns a 2000 Jetta, standard 4-cylinder F.I. engine with automatic trans. She bought the car used with 24,000 miles on it 2 years ago and had good luck with it until just the last couple months.

    Moral of the story:
    The Jetta is a very nicely designed little car from an esthetic and performance perspective. She got 30k of mostly trouble-free use out of it and all her problems started with a momentary "Check Engine" light that led her to request a routine spark plug change. As soon as a mechanic laid a hand on the engine the entire emissions system went to pot! Reading these forums it is clear that these cars have long-term reliability problems - I would not recommend buying one to anybody trying to live on a modest budget! Neither independent nor VW garages seem to be able to service them reliably - this has generated tremendous ill-will among customers expressed here and elsewhere...

    Please read on to learn the details of this experience - any comments and recommendations would be appreciated!

    She had a "Check Engine" light come on then go off in the spring. Someone suggested to her that it might need spark plugs with 50k miles on it so, when she took it in to an independent garage (recommended for VW service) for NYS Inspection in July she asked to have the plugs changed.

    First they had trouble checking computer for inspection - called and asked if anyone had worked on it recently, maybe clearing computer codes. Answer was "No" - no one has touched it since they replaced brakes a year ago!

    They recommended that she change plug wires but she did not have $ budgeted for additional work and told them "Not right now". I picked-up car for her, everything seemed fine, no "Check Engine" light and running smoothly. 10 miles from garage I stopped for a light and engine started to miss - "Check Engine" light ON. I drove it home and called garage, told them what happened, they said bring it back - it was missing so badly I could hardly get it there!

    They found bad plug wire (my opinion: they damaged it changing plugs - they are terrible to access!) and gave her a better quote on replacing plug wires. THEN they were unable to get the "Check Engine" light OFF! After 2 more days of fooling-around they concluded O2 sensors were OK but CAT might have been "injured" by 30 miles of driving with dead cylinder (due to bad plug wire). They gave her a bottle of F.I. cleaner and instructed her to see if the "Check Engine" light would go out after running a tankful of fuel with F.I. cleaner.

    When she used-up the F.I. cleaner and "Check Engine" light stayed ON they told her to bring it back so they could re-check the computer codes. They told her that, according to VW "recall" bulletin the CAT needed replacement under warranty and she should take it to VW. Independent garage (same one) wanted to charge her $60 for pulling the code but I told them "NO" - they let it go, I think because they knew they had damaged a plug wire which caused the problem in the first place!

    She called VWOA and described problem and they told her if it is the CAT it would be replaced at no charge. When she made app't with VW dealer they would not commit to replacing CAT w/o charge but she took it in anyways. They told her that THEIR Dx indicated the problem is Coolant Sensor and total bill will be $150 - $80 for pulling the computer code. Also that, if the CAT is still checking bad after Coolant Sensor replacement it WILL NOT BE COVERED BY WARRANTY!

    Mechanics find this car difficult to work on, especially the computer/emissions controls which seem to be marginal at best.

    VW dealers seem to be uncooperative with customers - probably because VWOA is not treating them right with warranty reimbursements.

    Any advice for my daughter on how to proceed with getting this all resolved? Thank goodness she has made her last payment on the car loan! I think she needs to save-up to trade it for something more reliable and economical to maintain - my advice is a pre-69 6-cylinder Chevy! Meanwhile she does have a bus pass...
  • mr5x5mr5x5 Member Posts: 8
    Well, she paid $150 for Dx and the Coolant Sensor and the "Check Engine" Light is "OUT"!

    While she had it at the dealer they told her she had a loose tie-rod and quoted her an unreasonable price to repair that. She had the presence of mind to tell them that it had just passed NYS Safety Inspection last month and she did not think it would be necessary to repair anything in the front-end. (My girl!)

    The bottomline on this may be the observation I made today at lunch. I parallel parked my '82 Chevy Monte Carlo behind a car with a NYS vanity license plate that read "JETTA" - the car was a Honda Civic!
  • bmonkey64bmonkey64 Member Posts: 1
    hi, i just bought a 2004 jetta and had an aftermarket alarm installed. i bought it off crutchfield.com and it matched my car, its the crimeguard 745i. it was installed and works great, however my malfunction indicator light stays on all the time now. i know there is something wrong with the computer in the car now. my car doesnt shift right (it is an automatic), and im afraid i might have to take the alarm off now. has anyone else had this problem or can anyone contribute to why it is doing this?? thanks
  • sp3sp3 Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for sharing your problems with me. Is your rattle fixed after you took it to the shop? I can't believe you had a rent a car for a week. I know that first model cars can have some issues that need to be resolved, but let's just hope there are no more issues than what we've experienced.
  • sp3sp3 Member Posts: 5
    I am so sorry to hear about your trunk problem with the new jetta. I have a 2.5 A5 jetta and I have no problems with my trunk...let's hope it stays that way.

    I think you need to do whatever you can to have the problem fixed. It is unacceptible for VW to tell you that this is the way the trunk is suppose to work. Do not accept that response. I would ask the dealership to contact the Quality Tech Manager to check out the trunk. Like I said, the trunk is not meant to operate that way because my trunk appears to work just fine. I do have to somewhat slam it closed though. It is a heavy trunk. You may want to contact VW customer care to state your dissatisfaction.

    I have problems with my doors rattling when music is played. VW said they will have a Quality Tech Manager come out to test drive the car with me. I am not going to accept the fact that the car is "designed to operate that way." Your absolutely right, with a MSRP as high as it is, there should be no problems with the trunk or rattling. (I purchased package #2 and the rattling makes me think why did I pay more for premium sound?)

    I hope you get this issue resolved and don't have to stand in the rain waiting to close your trunk. Good luck!
  • sallysaturnsallysaturn Member Posts: 14
    Well, now that I've gotten some more practice closing my trunk, it seems to be going better for me. They did make some adjustments when I took it in and I can tell the difference. I still am going to follow up on that 10 second thing. Someone from VW called me today and when I told them the tech said the trunk wouldn't close for 10 seconds, they said they'd get back to me, since it is not mentioned in the manual.

    I have started to notice some buzzing coming from the front passenger door speakers. Not constant, but it's there even though I don't turn up the volume at all. It's only those speakers that buzz. I will ask to have a Quality Tech Manager test drive the car with me. Thanks for the idea, I didn't know that was possible.

    How long will it take for you to get that test drive with the Quality Tech Manager scheduled?
  • micki1micki1 Member Posts: 1
    has 40,000 miles and nothing but problems. Had problem where alarm would go off when start the car and open the doors. THen that went away at the same time the inside door locks stopped working. Keyless entry does not work either.Brought into the dealership they said it needed a new key but did not know if that would solve the problem(200$), then theys aid new serpentine belt (200$), then broken vacuum hose (180$), then the said need to replace alarm switch (200$), and need new door lock assembly (355$). too much money.We paid the 100 $ diagnostic fee and took the car home. Now since having the car home everytime we start the car or open the doors the alarm goes off again, why would it stop for 3 weeks and start again, what could they have done to it? Could it be a fuse or something simpler? what are my cheapest options with this. Has anyone had this happen? thanks
  • tscantscan Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem on my 1999 GLS. One day the radio worked and then it didn't. But I bought the car used, without an owner's manual. Where is the fuse box under the hood? Is it on top of the battery? Thx.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    There is a TSB for "Front Door Panels Rattle With Radio Bass" for the new Jetta. This TSB number is 05–01 and dated Apr. 21, 2005. Your dealer should be able to perform this TSB and, hopefully, fix the rattle.
  • jettafellajettafella Member Posts: 5
    I just got my brand new Jetta 2.5 back from the dealer following having had to return it due to the ARS turning itself off and the EPC light on the dash coming on. IN addition I had the rattling speaker problem. The car, I am happy to say is now perfect. They had to replace the wiring harness, this is now aparently an official recall (and is listed as such on my receipt), they also checked the previously recalled fuel clip and installed foam damping in the driver and passenger side front door which as solved the bass vibration issue. All done under warranty whilst I had a loaner the entire time. Thanks VW, good job!
  • jettafellajettafella Member Posts: 5
    As for the trunk, I tried mine out and asked my dealer and do not have a 10 second delay thingy happening at all, the dealer said that sometimes they are a little over engineered in terms of the opening mechanism and need tweaking by an engineer.
  • kdaveskdaves Member Posts: 1
    I went to use my headlights last night and they won't come on....neither will my daylight running lights, but my taillights come on and my yellow markers come on...has anyone had this problem or have any suggestions?!?! I looked in the fuse box and none of my fuses are blown, does anyone know if there is a fuse under the hood for the lights because I don't think all four bulbs are bad....Thanks
  • sallysaturnsallysaturn Member Posts: 14
    Thanks! I'm going to mention it the service advisor at my appt this wednesday.
  • sallysaturnsallysaturn Member Posts: 14
    Yes, that 10 second thing is a little odd, but I swear that is what the service tech told me. The VW customer care line said they'd look into it, because I think it sounded odd to them too.

    Unfortunately my trunk is not working as well today as it did yesterday. Yesterday I managed to shut the trunk all five times that I used it, on the first try. Today all 3 or 4 times I need to mess with it even after it was "closed."

    At one point, neither my husband nor I could get the trunk to register as closed, even though it clearly was closed. We pressed and pressed, and heard lots of clicking, but the dash display showed the trunk was still "open." We were unable to re-open the trunk using either the release or the key fob, and eventually I had to fold down the seat, and crawl inside the trunk and pull the release handle.

    It's the second time in 9 days that we've had to crawl into the trunk to open it. It's getting old pretty fast.

    I'll feel alot better once I get this trunk thing taken care of. That and the TSB for the door speaker buzzing.

    Well, right now I've got to write VW an email to tell them how I didn't enjoy having to crawl inside my trunk to open it.
  • sallysaturnsallysaturn Member Posts: 14
    Do you have more info on the TSB? I looked it up on Edmunds but says that TSB 0501 is for "DRIVER DOOR LOCK CYLINDER INOPERATIVE."

    Do you know where I can read more about these VW TSBs? Thanks.

    http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/recalltsb.do?step=tsb&year=2005&make=Volkswagen&model=J- etta&style=New+2.5+4dr+Sedan+%
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I think Edmunds has the 2005 new Jetta and the old Jetta confused and muddled together. I can email you some more info, if you want.
  • sallysaturnsallysaturn Member Posts: 14
    Sure, email me some more info about the TSB at bellymiller@hotmail.com. Thanks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Although your story is long-winded, it sounds as if your problem has been resolved once you found a mechanic that was competent enough to understand VWs. I bet the original mechanic had no idea how to properly replace the sparkplugs on VW 2.0L engine. (Intake manifold should be removed and specail tool needed to pull the metal ESD armor.)

    By your description, most of your issues were caused by incompentent (with VWs) mechanic. I bet the "cooant sensor" was the initial problem and all the other issues were induced by sloppy sparkplug replacment.

    The "coolant sensor" is a very common problem on pre-2001 VWs. It has been superceeded at least 2 times since then. The reliable one is GREEN in color.

    As for the Cat-converter, READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL!!! There is s FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE that covers all emmissions equipment for 10-years, 100,000 miles. (It does not matter what the dealership "says")

    BTW: I am not clear on what needs to be "resolved" at this point???? Is your daughters VW not running OK now with no CEL ?
  • sallysaturnsallysaturn Member Posts: 14
    Tonight, after we securely closed the trunk lid, locked the car with the key fob, heard the chime, and went home, a neighbor came to our door to tell us that our trunk was open.

    This is getting ridiculous.
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