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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • skm4skm4 Member Posts: 10
    I tried the RXP twice and used high grade fuel. The light turned off for a few days, then came back on.
    I do tighten the gas cap as recommended. So, any other ideas??
    Thanks...skm
  • rwatsonrwatson Member Posts: 144
    I have a new 2006 GLI (about 1 month old) and have been loving it! However, after returning home yesterday from a week at the in-laws (we took another vehicle) I drove it around for a while. When I parked it I let it idle for a minute and heard a rather audible "tap-tap-tap" coming from the right side of the vehicle. I barely put my foot on the pedal and it went away. After releasing it it immediately came back. What is weird is that it doesn't seem to be traveling through the sound damping material. That is, it's not muffled like it would be under the hood. I checked to make sure nothing was in the door pockets rattling or the glove box. It sounds like it is coming from behind the glove compartment. Anyone hear this on their Jetta? Big question: is VW going to screw with me?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Did you try getting OUT of the vehicle and opening the hood to isolate the source of the sound? Is it the engine?...or somthing else?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    yeah = since the poster can re-create it by hitting the gas, they should ask someone else to get behind the wheel as the other person trys to localize the sound source with the hood open. a few cycles of idle (when there is the ticking) and higher reving (when there is none) should make the exercise less difficult.
  • 959jones959jones Member Posts: 2
    Just recently bought 2002 Jetta. Remote was beeping when car was locked but now it is not doing it. I just had the car in to replace the factory radio with a new radio covered under the warranty. Any thoughts? thanks.
  • rwatsonrwatson Member Posts: 144
    I had my car looked at today in Bossier City. They treated me good. They had only 1 mechanic working and took me right away. Of course, he couldn't spend too much time on my car, he admitted that it "wasn't normal" and urged me to make an appointment at a later date so he could spend more time with it. I was on my way up north and couldn't commit to very much time either. He pulled down the splash guard to make sure nothing was going to get me killed. He said it would all be covered under warranty. So, I'm happy for now. I'll be happier when the problem is fixed.

    Next question: Anyone have premature rattles coming from their dash? I guess driving on the Louisiana roads in it's first month have loosened things up a bit. The rattle is coming from the center air vent panel, where it mates to the stereo. It seems I could wedge some thin, black rubber strips in the crevice where they mate, but experience dictates that the rattle will eventually come back from the plastic re settling. Make sense? Or am I sounding like I lost my mind? Anyhow, anybody with the dash rattles able to overcome this? If so, how?
    Cheers.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The keyfob will NEVER EVER beep... it does not even contain a beeper. (there is only a red LED on the keyfob)

    If you are trying to say that the CAR is not beeping... then there is a problem. Do not forget that all doors including trunk and hood must be closed because there are electric switches on all of them. Take it back to the place you had the work done on the radio...they are under obligation to FIX what they broke.
  • 959jones959jones Member Posts: 2
    Thank you.
  • caine021800caine021800 Member Posts: 2
    :( Replaced the spark plugs and wires on my 1997 Jetta GT today and all I get out of it is a short start and then it dies. A buddy of mine told me the firing sequence could be off and to find a firing sequence diagram to get them in the right order. I cannot find a diagram of the firing sequence on the distributor. Can any of you help me out with this? Thank you in advance.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I tried to email a firing order diagram. It will not go through to the email address in your profile here.

    I got it from an online auto repair manual that our library provides free access to. I just have to log in with my library card number...you might want to check if your own local library offers this.

    Otherwise let me know an email address that I can send it to.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I just resent the diagram and I think it went through. I think it was blocking the previous attempts because it was a attachment (not sure why your email blocks .gif attachments). This time I pasted the diagram directly into the email.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    LESSON LEARNED.... When working on ignition components ALWAYS replace ONE AT A TIME to eliminate possibility of mixing up ignition firing sequence. (I learned this lesson at about age 12 when I first made this mistake...on a V8 engine, there is a lot more to mix up.)

    I assume that you used a little antiseaze on the sparkplug threads?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    For future reference:

    The firing order for VW watercooled 4-cylinder engines (since the early 1970s) is 1-3-4-2.
  • nightrydernightryder Member Posts: 2
    A few days ago I was driving when it was raining and the engine started to stutter a few time and soon the check engine light came on so I brought it to AutoZone to find out what was the problem and it was that the System is Too Rich. Then they told me I needed a new oxygen sensor. The car has only stuttered 2 different times before that, but only in the rain and no check engine light appeared then. Not sure if I should buy the Oxygen sensor or not because my buddy said when his car came up system too rich, he had to replace the oxygen sensor four times and still the problem wouldn't stop. Then he found out it was a problem with the spark plugs and got a tune up and the problem never happened again. The question is which is most likely to cause the system to be too rich? oxygen sensor or spark plugs?
  • nightrydernightryder Member Posts: 2
    Sorry, forgot to say it was a Jetta GL.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    To specifically answer your question -- the answer is "NEITHER"

    The only way an engine would run "too rich" would be if too much fuel was injected. What you are describing is a FALSE ALERT that it pointing to the real problem.

    Just because the "code" mentions an O2 sensor..it does not mean that an O2 sensor is bad.

    I have said MANY times before ... the diagnostic codes DO NOT tell you what is wrong. They are only a tool to be used with some SKILL and KNOWLEDGE to diagnose the REAL problem.

    From your description, it sounds as if the IGNITION is being affected by wet weather. This -in turn- would cause the O2 sensor to show a "too rich" condition due to a sparkplug not igniting the FA mixture.

    Your problem is OBVIOUSLY not a spark-plug...there is no way that rain can affect a sparkplug. You are describing a problem with the components that CAUSE the sparkplugs to spark. (ignitor and wires)

    If it were my car, I would remove the ignition coil and scrub it with hot-soapy water (dish detergent). Somtimes the crud on the outside of it can cause misfiring in wet weather. I would also remove and wash the sparkplug wires in the same hot-soapy water.

    I would also apply some silicone grease to the sparkplug wire boots... to ensure a good seal. (and easier removal in the future.) Just enough grease that wets your pinky finger is the right amount. (you will barely see the "glaze" of the grease on the boots.)

    Before reinstalling the ignitor and wires, inspect them for cracks.

    ALTERNATELY: you could use a spritzer-bottle of water to moisten the ignition components while the engine is idling. The engine should NOT MISS A BEAT when you do this. If the engine does faulter... then you have found the problem-component.
  • dougfalkdougfalk Member Posts: 1
    I was driving my '00 Jetta the other day when 3 loud beeps started to go off. There were no lights flashing at all. The beeps were not sparated by any certain length of time. Sometimes 3 minutes, sometimes 10 seconds. However the 3 beeps always where the same length.

    Any Ideas are greatly appreciated.
    -Doug Falk
  • baruahbaruah Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have been driving a 1999 Jetta for about 13 months now. Recently, on a couple of occassions while making sharp turns, the steering seemed to get locked for a moment. Basically it kind of gets fixed for a split second and then releases. Any information about why this might be happening will be highly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Ron
  • jettavajettava Member Posts: 1
    The airbag light has come on in my 2000 VW jetta. I took it to the dealer for a diagnosis, and he called to tell me that when they hooked it up to their machine, it cleared the codes & turned off the light and now he can't tell me what is wrong with the airbag bc the codes are cleared and the light is off. (However,he still plans to charge me the $100 for hooking it up to his computer.) Does this make sense to anyone? He said that I have to wait for the airbag light to come back on with a permanent code so that he can diagnose the problem.

    By way of background, this happened twice before -- each time the codes were cleared (once by a dealer, once by an independent mechanic), it took 4-6 months for the airbag light to come back on. The dealer the first time said it was an intermittent fault in the airbag controller, which needed to be replaced (very expensive, not under warranty). The independent mechanic the second time said that the fault codes were nonsensical and that maybe the light would just stay off. Of course, it didn't & now I'm back at the dealer.

    Anyone have any thoughts on 1.) why the dealer can't diagnose it now and 2.) what the problem might be? TIA.
  • allhorizonallhorizon Member Posts: 483
    I was driving my '00 Jetta the other day when 3 loud beeps started to go off. There were no lights flashing at all. The beeps were not sparated by any certain length of time. Sometimes 3 minutes, sometimes 10 seconds. However the 3 beeps always where the same length.

    Doug, my Golf does that when the oil pressure is too low (I believe it is in the manual). Check your oil level. Also, do you have the 2.0l gas engine? That engine works better with heavier oils, especially once it has some miles on it. I only run 20/50. Anything less, and my oil light will come on.
  • sylvan76sylvan76 Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 1999 Jetta GLS and am having difficulty starting it. All interior and exterior lights work as does the radio and all other electronics, however I was only able to turn it over once during the last few days. It doesn't make any distinct sound when the key is turned. Any insight with respect to this trouble would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Chris
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    intermittent problems are VERY difficult to isolate. If the code for the airbag indicated an "intermittent" problem, most places would just clear the code and send you on your way.

    It is unfortunate that a dealership would soak you for $100 to perform this task.

    I am SOOOO glad that I purshased a VAGCOM so I could read the codes and clear them myself. At those prices that the dealerships are charging -- it has paid for itself many times over. (We have 3 VWs in the family and I have diagnosed issues on all of them.)
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    If the dealer charges you now for the diagnostic, he should not charge again when you come back with the air bag light on again. The other option for the dealer, is to not charge you for a diagnostic, since they did not diagnose anything.

    If you have been a regular cutomer at this dealer, then I would think they should not charge you. If you are not a regular customer, then I can understand why they might want to charge you...but they should certainly agree to not charge if you come back with the same issue for another diagnostic attempt.
  • thedoc121thedoc121 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all. Recently we had some hard rains, and all of a sudden, the car went to hell. Interior water leak (from under the dash) Water in the intake (filter was wet), and the car stalls. It took a few days, but I replaced the filter, hoping that was the problem. Then I pulled and replaced the plugs (fouled pretty bad) and checked the distributor and all for water/dirt. Everything looks fine, but every time I turn left, the car stalls out. The stall is instant, and as the car dies and jerks forward, the engine starts again, just to stall out on the backward thrust. I can take a hard right at 25 or 30 with no problem, but it stalls on every left, no matter the speed. I was told it may be the fuel pump, but it doesn't spit, and the TACH drops intantly. I thought it may be a broken pc of the Catlytic convertor blocking up the exhaust. Any ideas?
    Thanks,
    Joe
  • dhoustondhouston Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 jetta GLI. It has 10,000 miles and is under warranty. WE purchased it used and for the most part its great. However we have a similar transmission problem. I have nailed our's down to the shift between 2cd and 3rd its an automatic. Out of the blue it will bang and hit hard like a sledgehammer hit it. Oh it shifts a little hard on occasion but when it hits hard its like nothing you could believe. The worse was one time it did it 3 times in a role on the way to church. The like you say it can go 2 weeks and nothing. Its been to the dealer twice now and they cannot find it no codes so nothing they can do. This is so bad I'm just having a hard time believing other jetta's are not doing it too. Any new help?
  • gilletegillete Member Posts: 7
    I am driving 2005 Jetta. I heard this knocking noise from the back left (I think it's from the fuel line) of the car for several minutes when I started the car. Also, lately, I hear other knocking noise from the front of the car. I hate to go to the dealer to check it out. Does anyone know what is going on with my car?
    Thanks in advanced.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I'm not sure what the noises are but a couple of peculiar noises are normal.

    One is you will hear the fuel pump when you open the drivers door...but that sounds more like a hum or like an electric motor running briefly.

    The other is when you start the car and it is cold the engine makes a rattling sound...kind of diesel-ish for a few seconds. Owners manual says this is hydraulic valve lifters or something like that.
  • servadvismbservadvismb Member Posts: 1
    It could be the T.C.M. (trani control module) or a valve body sticking
  • mikeregestermikeregester Member Posts: 1
    Take a look at
    http://www.carsurvey.org/model_Volkswagen_Jetta.html
    I have a 2002 which is pretty much the same car and there are numerous postings of this problem on the website above. The 04’s don’t have much posted yet but the underling vehicle is much the same as past models.
    When the dealer tells you that there is no problem, which they will, you can show them what they already know from the hundreds of other Jettas which are having the same problem. You can show them that there is a problem with a defective transmission which can result in life threatening situations.
    This is my second VW Jetta. I have had a 99 and now a 2002 and they are both junk. The warranty just expired on my 02 and I can’t wait to get a Honda and stop wasting time getting their “issues” fixed.
  • sdcabincrew74sdcabincrew74 Member Posts: 6
    Ok, I do not always wear my seatbelt. But that annoying beeping every 25 seconds is driving me INSANE! How the heck can I stop it?!?!
  • gram60gram60 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    I have a 2006 2.5 manual Jetta. I noticed a burning smell which seemed to come from the rear wheels..smells like burning brakes.Took it to the dealer and they told me that of the three 2006 Jettas they drive, each one had the mysterious burning smell about 1200 miles. Took my wheels off and checked the brakes and exhaust and found nothing wrong. I still get a slight burning smell..more from the rear wheel on the driver's side..after driving only a few miles..Has anyone else experienced this?
    Gram60
  • gkacalagkacala Member Posts: 3
    Hey Folks. I have been having two problems with my 2004 Jetta Wagon diesel. It seems to be sucking coolant (about a quart over 5.000 miles), yet the dealer during two different checks can find no leaks in the system.

    Next, the check engine light comes on and the dealer indicates that it is due to sulphur build up as a result of reformulated gas here in S.E. Wisconsin. He recommends using Diesel No. 1 fuel in an attempt to burn it off. Then go back to Diesel 2.

    The car has 41,000 miles. Anybody experience these types of problems or can suggets solutions?
    thanks

    gordy
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Please do not crosspost (repeat the very same posting in multiple forums) I hace already answered your question in another forum.
  • scott61scott61 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '98 Jetta GL with what appears to be the original Volkswagen radio. After putting in a new battery, the radio is not working and when turned on says the word "SAFE" for a few seconds. I don't have the radio manual to help instruct. How do I get the radio out of the safe mode and operational again? Thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You need the "secret code" that was given to the original purchaser of the vehicle. If you do not have it, you need to contact a VW dealership.
  • sabbysarasabbysara Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 Jetta, 67,000 miles, has been occasionally stutter-starting during the last 2 weeks. Also, the oil light has been turning on and off for the last 2 months. It even came on 5 minutes after I drove away from getting an oil chance. Any ideas?
  • shakingspearshakingspear Member Posts: 1
    Hi. Today I noticed in my 2005 Jetta a somewhat loud (compared to never hearing it before) hum from the engine starting about 5-10 seconds after I start the car, and ending about 5-10 seconds when I turn it off. It sounds like a fan starting up and, when I shut it down, turning off. Any reason why I would be hearing it now, after 9 months of ownership?

    Thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Did the oil-change include the required 5w30 oil? (NOT 10W!!)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    If you have AC on... one fan will run all the time.
  • wrightflyerwrightflyer Member Posts: 9
    I have an 06 Jetta TDI and line in Eastern NC. I assume I do not need an engine heater? Very rare for freezing temps!

    Also, why does it take so long for a TDI to heat up?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    No need for engine heater if temps do not get below 10F. In fact, the TDI will START just fine at -20F... but will barely warm up after an hour of driving. (I know... I have experinced it many times)

    The reason TDI engine takes so long to warm up is because it is fuel-efficent. If you think about the physics of an automobile... it is basically converting the energy in the fuel to move the vehicle.

    If an engine is more efficent at converting the energy in the fuel ... there is less wasted as heat. Dont forget, the reason there is a cooling system (radiator) is to dispense of the by-product of HEAT.

    A 100% efficent engine would produce NO HEAT AT ALL because all the energy in the fuel would be converted to moving the vehicle.

    That is why ELECTRIC vehicles make no sense... they still need a kerosene tank and heater to keep the occupants warm in the winter.
  • allhorizonallhorizon Member Posts: 483
    ... but, to help out with that, the new TDIs have a special pre-heat function. It turns out that a first batch of US-destined TDIs did not have this enabled. Talk to your dealer - you may have one of them. This function is enabled via a quick change in the computer settings - takes about 2 minutes.
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    Can you explain the "pre-heat" function. How does it work? Is there an electric heater in the system somewhere? (an idea that would make some sense, like a blowdryer coil).

    Also, bpeebles says that the car is not warm after an hour - not my experieince at all. The car will not warm up while at idle, but once driven (even in cold temps) it reaches standard operating temp within a 5 minute window of normal and the heat in the car is fine. I do suggest the "cold weather package" for anyone who has cold days. The heated seats (at ~$100) are a great option.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Given the different experiences of bpeebles and mrjette, perhaps bpeebles has a broken thermostat???
  • gothicangelgothicangel Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Jetta and I have called around to find out what the difference is between the codes and no one can tell me. Does anyone know anything about a vw trani
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    No "broken thermostat"... If the interiour heat is on "high" and fan on "high".... it pulls so much heat out of the engine that the engine will NEVER acheive operating temp.

    If I turn the interiour fan down a click or 2... then the engine temp comes up as expected.... turning the fan back to "high" will pull the engine temp back down.

    Do not forget that I am talking about what happens when outside temp is BELOW -15F. I also have the radiator covered to keep the cold-air blast out of it.

    Since I live in Vermont where there are exactly 2 interstate highways.... most of my driving is country-roads where the engine does not have to work very hard.

    Also, my TDI is well-broken-in and I use the best-possible oil (lowered internal friction = less heat). During the summer, I regularly get 55MPG.

    Additionally, "mrjette" has the Pumpe-duse engine which is radically different than my TDI engine. (also less efficent than mine) It is possible that VW has changed the cooling system to help get more heat to the interiour.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The "pre heat" on the new-style Jetta is exactly what you describe... there is an electric heater coil (hair dryer) in the airstream of the interiour air-ducting.
  • scott61scott61 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. The dealer says they can reset the radio for about 30 bucks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Actually, they ARE throwing parts at the problem. (aka GUESSING) It sure sounds as if they are just "pulling the code" and guessing what might be causing the problem.

    This does not surprise me at all. Dealerships are TRAINED to "fix it fast".... not to "diagnose the actual problem". This translates into what we call "shotgunning" the problem. (just keep throwing parts at it and charge the customer for them.)

    Although your dealership may be the best way for you to *eventually* get it fixed.... personally, I find it appalling that they do not actually MONITOR some key circuits while driving to actually isolate the issue a bit more.

    It is not very difficult to use a laptop computer to graph the TPS (ThrottlePositionSensor), MAF (MassAirFlow) and some other key inputs while actually driving to help pinpoint an elusive problem like this one. The flakey device will clearly show up as a "spike" on the graph when the problem happens.

    Also, there are a myriad of "diagnostics" that can be run on all the systems you have mentioned to help isolate a flakey device or sensor. One "quickey" way to help isolate things is to just UNPLUG the device in question and try driving with it like that.

    For example, unplugging the MAF will cause the ECU to fall back into "limp mode"... but the car will still be drivable. A classic method of isolating a bad MAF is to unplug it and see if the engine runs BETTER without it connected. (instead of running with bad signals from the MAF)

    A laptop computer in the hands of a competent trhoubleshooter is a wonder to behold. The most elusive problems are isolated with efficency. (no "shotgunning" required.)

    More than once, I have isolated a problem with one of my daughters VWs and printed out the results so they can present to the dealership. ( One time resulted in a free "steeringwheel position sensor" replacement and another time a free MAF was installed by dealership.)
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    The 04 PD TDI's are having many failures with the EGR cooler (I just had mine replaced at 26K miles at no cost covered under the warranty, you have to 48K to get it done, after that it will be $900 out of your pocket). When the EGR cooler leaks, there won't be any external leakage as its going to end up mixed in with your EGR gasses into the intake. I would suggest getting this fixed asap as mine became a pretty serious leak in a very short period of time.
    I would not recomend running straight #1 diesel as it is much thinner and doesn't have the same lubricity as #2. You might be getting close to needing an intake manifold cleaning, you might want to press the dealer to do that while you are still under warranty also. There is a rather simple procedure for cleaning your fuel injectors with "Lubro Molly Diesel Purge" that I do every time that I replace my fuel filter. There are several writeup on how to do this at tdiclub and you can buy the diesel purge at tdiparts.com. Basically, the supply to your tandem fuel pump (the camshaft drives a pump that is a combination vacuum pump and fuel pump, it supplies the Pump Deuse fuel injectors) gets a piece of flexible tubing inserted, the return from the fuel injectors to the filter gets the same and the plastic tubes go into the can of diesel purge. Then you run the car until you empty the can (takes about 40 minutes) Good luck.
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