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Comments
I do tighten the gas cap as recommended. So, any other ideas??
Thanks...skm
Next question: Anyone have premature rattles coming from their dash? I guess driving on the Louisiana roads in it's first month have loosened things up a bit. The rattle is coming from the center air vent panel, where it mates to the stereo. It seems I could wedge some thin, black rubber strips in the crevice where they mate, but experience dictates that the rattle will eventually come back from the plastic re settling. Make sense? Or am I sounding like I lost my mind? Anyhow, anybody with the dash rattles able to overcome this? If so, how?
Cheers.
If you are trying to say that the CAR is not beeping... then there is a problem. Do not forget that all doors including trunk and hood must be closed because there are electric switches on all of them. Take it back to the place you had the work done on the radio...they are under obligation to FIX what they broke.
I got it from an online auto repair manual that our library provides free access to. I just have to log in with my library card number...you might want to check if your own local library offers this.
Otherwise let me know an email address that I can send it to.
I assume that you used a little antiseaze on the sparkplug threads?
The firing order for VW watercooled 4-cylinder engines (since the early 1970s) is 1-3-4-2.
The only way an engine would run "too rich" would be if too much fuel was injected. What you are describing is a FALSE ALERT that it pointing to the real problem.
Just because the "code" mentions an O2 sensor..it does not mean that an O2 sensor is bad.
I have said MANY times before ... the diagnostic codes DO NOT tell you what is wrong. They are only a tool to be used with some SKILL and KNOWLEDGE to diagnose the REAL problem.
From your description, it sounds as if the IGNITION is being affected by wet weather. This -in turn- would cause the O2 sensor to show a "too rich" condition due to a sparkplug not igniting the FA mixture.
Your problem is OBVIOUSLY not a spark-plug...there is no way that rain can affect a sparkplug. You are describing a problem with the components that CAUSE the sparkplugs to spark. (ignitor and wires)
If it were my car, I would remove the ignition coil and scrub it with hot-soapy water (dish detergent). Somtimes the crud on the outside of it can cause misfiring in wet weather. I would also remove and wash the sparkplug wires in the same hot-soapy water.
I would also apply some silicone grease to the sparkplug wire boots... to ensure a good seal. (and easier removal in the future.) Just enough grease that wets your pinky finger is the right amount. (you will barely see the "glaze" of the grease on the boots.)
Before reinstalling the ignitor and wires, inspect them for cracks.
ALTERNATELY: you could use a spritzer-bottle of water to moisten the ignition components while the engine is idling. The engine should NOT MISS A BEAT when you do this. If the engine does faulter... then you have found the problem-component.
Any Ideas are greatly appreciated.
-Doug Falk
Thanks,
Ron
By way of background, this happened twice before -- each time the codes were cleared (once by a dealer, once by an independent mechanic), it took 4-6 months for the airbag light to come back on. The dealer the first time said it was an intermittent fault in the airbag controller, which needed to be replaced (very expensive, not under warranty). The independent mechanic the second time said that the fault codes were nonsensical and that maybe the light would just stay off. Of course, it didn't & now I'm back at the dealer.
Anyone have any thoughts on 1.) why the dealer can't diagnose it now and 2.) what the problem might be? TIA.
Doug, my Golf does that when the oil pressure is too low (I believe it is in the manual). Check your oil level. Also, do you have the 2.0l gas engine? That engine works better with heavier oils, especially once it has some miles on it. I only run 20/50. Anything less, and my oil light will come on.
Thanks,
Chris
It is unfortunate that a dealership would soak you for $100 to perform this task.
I am SOOOO glad that I purshased a VAGCOM so I could read the codes and clear them myself. At those prices that the dealerships are charging -- it has paid for itself many times over. (We have 3 VWs in the family and I have diagnosed issues on all of them.)
If you have been a regular cutomer at this dealer, then I would think they should not charge you. If you are not a regular customer, then I can understand why they might want to charge you...but they should certainly agree to not charge if you come back with the same issue for another diagnostic attempt.
Thanks,
Joe
Thanks in advanced.
One is you will hear the fuel pump when you open the drivers door...but that sounds more like a hum or like an electric motor running briefly.
The other is when you start the car and it is cold the engine makes a rattling sound...kind of diesel-ish for a few seconds. Owners manual says this is hydraulic valve lifters or something like that.
http://www.carsurvey.org/model_Volkswagen_Jetta.html
I have a 2002 which is pretty much the same car and there are numerous postings of this problem on the website above. The 04’s don’t have much posted yet but the underling vehicle is much the same as past models.
When the dealer tells you that there is no problem, which they will, you can show them what they already know from the hundreds of other Jettas which are having the same problem. You can show them that there is a problem with a defective transmission which can result in life threatening situations.
This is my second VW Jetta. I have had a 99 and now a 2002 and they are both junk. The warranty just expired on my 02 and I can’t wait to get a Honda and stop wasting time getting their “issues” fixed.
I have a 2006 2.5 manual Jetta. I noticed a burning smell which seemed to come from the rear wheels..smells like burning brakes.Took it to the dealer and they told me that of the three 2006 Jettas they drive, each one had the mysterious burning smell about 1200 miles. Took my wheels off and checked the brakes and exhaust and found nothing wrong. I still get a slight burning smell..more from the rear wheel on the driver's side..after driving only a few miles..Has anyone else experienced this?
Gram60
Next, the check engine light comes on and the dealer indicates that it is due to sulphur build up as a result of reformulated gas here in S.E. Wisconsin. He recommends using Diesel No. 1 fuel in an attempt to burn it off. Then go back to Diesel 2.
The car has 41,000 miles. Anybody experience these types of problems or can suggets solutions?
thanks
gordy
Thanks.
Also, why does it take so long for a TDI to heat up?
The reason TDI engine takes so long to warm up is because it is fuel-efficent. If you think about the physics of an automobile... it is basically converting the energy in the fuel to move the vehicle.
If an engine is more efficent at converting the energy in the fuel ... there is less wasted as heat. Dont forget, the reason there is a cooling system (radiator) is to dispense of the by-product of HEAT.
A 100% efficent engine would produce NO HEAT AT ALL because all the energy in the fuel would be converted to moving the vehicle.
That is why ELECTRIC vehicles make no sense... they still need a kerosene tank and heater to keep the occupants warm in the winter.
Also, bpeebles says that the car is not warm after an hour - not my experieince at all. The car will not warm up while at idle, but once driven (even in cold temps) it reaches standard operating temp within a 5 minute window of normal and the heat in the car is fine. I do suggest the "cold weather package" for anyone who has cold days. The heated seats (at ~$100) are a great option.
If I turn the interiour fan down a click or 2... then the engine temp comes up as expected.... turning the fan back to "high" will pull the engine temp back down.
Do not forget that I am talking about what happens when outside temp is BELOW -15F. I also have the radiator covered to keep the cold-air blast out of it.
Since I live in Vermont where there are exactly 2 interstate highways.... most of my driving is country-roads where the engine does not have to work very hard.
Also, my TDI is well-broken-in and I use the best-possible oil (lowered internal friction = less heat). During the summer, I regularly get 55MPG.
Additionally, "mrjette" has the Pumpe-duse engine which is radically different than my TDI engine. (also less efficent than mine) It is possible that VW has changed the cooling system to help get more heat to the interiour.
This does not surprise me at all. Dealerships are TRAINED to "fix it fast".... not to "diagnose the actual problem". This translates into what we call "shotgunning" the problem. (just keep throwing parts at it and charge the customer for them.)
Although your dealership may be the best way for you to *eventually* get it fixed.... personally, I find it appalling that they do not actually MONITOR some key circuits while driving to actually isolate the issue a bit more.
It is not very difficult to use a laptop computer to graph the TPS (ThrottlePositionSensor), MAF (MassAirFlow) and some other key inputs while actually driving to help pinpoint an elusive problem like this one. The flakey device will clearly show up as a "spike" on the graph when the problem happens.
Also, there are a myriad of "diagnostics" that can be run on all the systems you have mentioned to help isolate a flakey device or sensor. One "quickey" way to help isolate things is to just UNPLUG the device in question and try driving with it like that.
For example, unplugging the MAF will cause the ECU to fall back into "limp mode"... but the car will still be drivable. A classic method of isolating a bad MAF is to unplug it and see if the engine runs BETTER without it connected. (instead of running with bad signals from the MAF)
A laptop computer in the hands of a competent trhoubleshooter is a wonder to behold. The most elusive problems are isolated with efficency. (no "shotgunning" required.)
More than once, I have isolated a problem with one of my daughters VWs and printed out the results so they can present to the dealership. ( One time resulted in a free "steeringwheel position sensor" replacement and another time a free MAF was installed by dealership.)
I would not recomend running straight #1 diesel as it is much thinner and doesn't have the same lubricity as #2. You might be getting close to needing an intake manifold cleaning, you might want to press the dealer to do that while you are still under warranty also. There is a rather simple procedure for cleaning your fuel injectors with "Lubro Molly Diesel Purge" that I do every time that I replace my fuel filter. There are several writeup on how to do this at tdiclub and you can buy the diesel purge at tdiparts.com. Basically, the supply to your tandem fuel pump (the camshaft drives a pump that is a combination vacuum pump and fuel pump, it supplies the Pump Deuse fuel injectors) gets a piece of flexible tubing inserted, the return from the fuel injectors to the filter gets the same and the plastic tubes go into the can of diesel purge. Then you run the car until you empty the can (takes about 40 minutes) Good luck.