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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mikedo80mikedo80 Member Posts: 1
    2001 Jetta needs help.

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    I recently purchassed a 2001 Jetta GLS 2.0, and I need some information. I'vve always worked on my own cars, and I'm tight on cash right now so I don't want to start replacing the wrong parts. Here's the deal: The check engine light is on, and sometimes, the car Idles rough as if it's only running on 3 cyl. I've heard that throttle bodies on jetta's either go bad or get out of adjustment, but I'm inclined to think this would not cause an intermittent problem. I know It's time for a tune up, so I'm going to at least replace the wires and plugs. What sensors should I consider replacing? The car has 116,000 miles on it, and so far, nothing has been replaced. I've heard that the mass air flow sensor is a common culprit of jetta problems, and that it's easy to replace. Is this true? Many of my tools were stolen recently, and I'm timid about getting into a big project. I just need to be able to get to everything with standard ratchet and sockets. What about the plugs? Are the easy enough to get to from above the hood? I just want to fix what needs to be fixed right now because the car also needs new tires and the driver's door has a broken hinge bolt. I'm concerned about the rough idle. Sometimes, on the freeway, the car surges, too. It will be running fine at high speed and all of a sudden it will have a bunch more power and start going faster. This is without giving more gas or shifting (it's a manual). Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
    MIke
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Without knowing what code is causing the CEL -- you are shooting in the dark. The descriptin of your problem 'sounds' like an issue with the ignition.... not throttlebody.

    I would suggest you find out WHAT CODE is causing the CEL. Most autoparts stores will "pull the codes" for free.

    You need to determine WHICH ENGINE you have... the 2001 model year had an engine-change in the middle of it. The engine code is found on a sticker on the top of the timingbelt cover. It is a 3-letter designation.

    "AEG" engine is the older one with a throttle-cable
    "AVH" engine is the newer one WITHOUT a throttle-cable. (drive by wire!)

    If you have the newer one WITHOUT a throttlecable, there is a process wheras you can "calibrate" the throttlebody to make sure it is 'in sync' with the pedal.

    Replacing the MAF is trivial if you know which end of a phillips screwdriver to hold ;-) The MAF is screwed to the airfilter housing and has a clamp holding a tube to the throttlebody. Oh ya -- there is one electrical connector to pull off too. I have swapped MAFs between 2 VWs in the rain within 5 minutes... it is that simple. (I swapped between my daughters VWs to see if a problem moved to the other car)

    The Sparkplugs on the 2.0 engine are VERY VERY difficult to replace without the proper tools because the intake-plenum runs OVER the engine effectively covering the middle 2 sparkplugs.
  • bluejetbluejet Member Posts: 1
    I am new to the forum. I have an 02 Jetta Wagon with 48,000 miles. Until recently, I have LOVED this car but it is now starting to mysteriously lose oil. Two times in a row I have found that I am running completely dry after only 4,000 miles of driving. It is at the dealer right now for the 1,000 mile consumption test, but I am concerned that the dealer is going to tell me nothing is wrong since I am so close to the end of my warranty. I saw one posting on this problem from October 2002, but there wasn't an explanation. If anyone has any insight on what this could be I would really appreciate it. I am hoping to remain a loyal and happy Jetta driver! :)
  • chrisnhchrisnh Member Posts: 22
    Did not post my solution. It was definately a bad sparkplub wire to #1. I bought some liquid electrical tape for $6. Put on 10 coats or more on a weekend. Got lucky and while that should not have worked it did.

    One of the causes was the Jetta is missing a hood seal on the front. There was a 1/2 inch or 10mm plus gap after the hood firmly latched. All the New Hampshire slush and water came flying into the top of the engine. About $3 of 1/2 inch foam tape used to seal house windows reduced the gap to nothing and seemed to solve the problem.

    Chris
  • chrisnhchrisnh Member Posts: 22
    1995 Jetta. My daughter and I swaped cars. I went to a big city (7,000 people) and locked the car. When I returned, the key did not work. One of those wet and yucko days, slush up to my ankles. Hit the lock with some deicer. Nothing. Called my daughter and she told me to try it again. "Think good thoughts daddy". Presto, as I am telling her I did it 20 times before, the windows came down but car unlocked. Got the windows up and no more problems. Not being dumb I never tried to lock the car again. Gave the car back to her.

    A couple of weeks later she tell me she has not been able to lock it since then. I can lock the car with lock switch on the console, so something is telling the vacume to the door locks to work. We bought the car used and never could lock the car from the passenger side.

    Ideas, rather not spend $200 for a fix.

    Thanks - Chris
  • chrisnhchrisnh Member Posts: 22
    I ditto bpeebles, as you can see from my posts on this subject.

    The old spray bottle set to first to fine then to stream, worked for me. I could hear the spark and could see it in the twilight. I like to run this test when the engine is warm. Just in case the engine dies, the heat will help dry things out. Make sure you have a can of WD40 handy to get rid of the water.

    Again bpeebles has the right idea, what is really causing the problem(s)? Our Jetta would die on the road in the rain/slush snow. Wait 15 minutes and you could limp to a phone or home.

    I had first replaced the spark plug wires and distributor, then the coil. The problem did not go away. I figure that the mechanic with the proper tools damaged the wire to #1. My point is that it was water on the electrical system which caused the problem.

    When my sister-in-law came over with her Jetta, I did a side by side compairson. Just happened to look up at the raised hood and noticed one had a seal and the other did not. That was the cause, which let water get to the wires.
  • rmjettarmjetta Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem with rainy day's. It turned out to be the coil.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Its an 11 year old car, I'd just leave it unlocked :) .
  • tom_jettatditom_jettatdi Member Posts: 5
    Hopefully someone reading this has experienced my situation and could give me some advice. Recently, my front brake pad sensor light came on. The brakes did need to be replaced, so I took the car to my mechanic and he replaced the front brake pads. Now the front brake pad sensor light on my dash does not turn off. I called the VW dealership and they said that the light will only go off if I used their brake pads. I called my mechanic and he said that he used OEM brakepads from the Napa auto part store (these have sensors built into them just like the dealership pads). So, my question is - should I be replacing the brake pads to get the light to turn off or could there be something else wrong? My mechanic does not know what is causing the light to stay on. He says that he has no documentation on the light. The new brakes work just fine, but the yellow sensor light is driving me crazy! Please help... Thanks.
  • tom_jettatditom_jettatdi Member Posts: 5
    By the way, I forgot to mention that my car is a 2000 VW Jetta TDI.
  • smittykittysmittykitty Member Posts: 1
    I have heard this is a common problem with the 95-98 Jetta. The automatic transmission shifts hard from neutral to 1st, or 1st to 2nd. All mechanics suggest replacing or rebuilding the transmission. They say the fluid is dark, and there is debris in the pan. My Jetta GT has 92k well documented miles on it. This car has been spoiled, and I'm pretty angry that the transmission is slowly dying. If you have had this problem, please reply and let me know what you did to resolve it. I'm not sure if I want to rebuild, replace, or just get a new car.
  • crazed79crazed79 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry, I'm not sure how to use this forum thing, but I was wondering if anyonw can help me. Im have a 99 jetta old body style that hesitates in third gear, or should I say chugs a little for a second or two.....feels like its not getting gas or something....ive brought it to dealers...they say its nothing....i say thats crap. I'm not a mechanic, but I know an engine isnt supposed to run like this???????
  • crazed79crazed79 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 jetta old body style that feels like its chuggin a little in third gear. I vrought it to the mechanic, they say its nothing. I say thats crap. I'm not a mechanic or anything, but an engine shouldnt hesitate like this.....help please???
  • palizpaliz Member Posts: 1
    I own a '99 Jetta (Wolfsburg Edition) that has less than 65,000 miles on it. It's an automatic and recently I began to notice that it couldn't seem to get into the correct gear, especially whenever I tried to accelerate.
    I took my car to a VW dealership yesterday to have it checked out, and they told me that I need a brand new transmission! Then the serv">ice guy told me that it will cost about $5000 (parts & labor) to fix my car!! Call me crazy, but I don't think a 7 year-old car with less than 65,000 miles on it should be having this kind of a problem. Any comments or advice would be much appreciated!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    It may be. 1999 through 2002 VWs tend to be the most problematic - especially since 1999 was the first model year for that body style.

    With the exception of the 5-speed Tiptronic transmission (which is supplied by Aisin Transmissions of Japan), VW-sourced automatics have been very unreliable (avoid at all costs). The main culprit was the weak differentials prematurely wearing out (a definite show stopper).

    The manual transmissions, however, are quite good (probably has something to do with the fact that most VWs sold in Europe and other countries are manual transmissions). The manual transmission in my now deceased 1987 Golf GT lasted 429,000 miles.

    It is no wonder that the DSG and Tiptronic transmissions used by VW are supplied by Aisin.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Get a new car! I have a 1997 Jetta Trek, but with a manual transmission. Based on my years of experience with VWs, I would avoid the earlier automatic transmission VWs like the plague. Since the majority of VWs sold around the world during the 1974 through early 2002 model years have been manual transmission models. The majority of automatic slushbox models were sold in the U.S.

    The only exception during the 2000+ years is the Tiptronic transmission, which has been quite reliable (the transmissions were sourced by Aisin of Japan). The current DSG and Tiptronic transmissions are sourced by Aisin.
  • anc3chanc3ch Member Posts: 1
    I had to have the engine replaced in our 2003 Jetta. They put in a 2002 recycled engine. Now we are having one problem after the other - the instruments fail (fuel gauge, sppedometer), the catalytic converter was replaced, the torque converter in the transmission is supposed to be bad and the transmission is supposed to come out. Is a 2002 engine even compatible with the 2003 vehicle (the transmission and the computer)? Any input on this subject will be appreciated.
  • chrisnhchrisnh Member Posts: 22
    Yeah, but it is a student car so it is also used for storage. And it is considered a hot car in Northern New Hampshire...its got heated seats and is under 300k in miles.

    You and I are on the same page. "But Dad, a homeless person could camp out in it down in the parking lot if it is not locked. :shades:
  • luvboostluvboost Member Posts: 1
    Looking to buy a used car and found a 2002 Volkswagen GTI with 95k for 9k. The car looks great, well maintained, etc.....though being my background is in turboed Hondas is this car worth buying for the price? I just need to commute back and forth to work but don't mind the little pep at all.....

    Umm anybody have any thoughts?
  • rrandallcrrandallc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 jetta 2.0L GL. Its had one owner besides myself and its a great car. Shortly after I bought it the cruse control started working intermittently and eventually stopped working altogether. I just let it go for along time. But recently I bought one of thoughs handie do it yourself books and looked up the cruse components. I started poking around the vacuum pump located on the front driver side behind the bug wash fluid tank. I found a white vacuum line that was caped off with a bolt. I also think it was cut so it wont even reach the vacuum pump itself. In fact Im not even sure any lines on the vacuum pump are hooked up properly. Can someone please tell me how to hook it up properly and where I should hook up that white line.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It would be FARRR easier to find another ~98 2.0L and check that one out to see the hose-routings. -- Alternately, look for a sticker under the hood somwhere, somtimes there is a hose-routing chart.
  • patrick31774patrick31774 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 98 jetta which has had the battery replaced so the radio which appears to be the original is stuck in safe i have the code but dont know how to enter them does anyone know how to do this?
  • dgcamerodgcamero Member Posts: 148
    If I remember correctly --- and assuming your '98 radio operates like the radio in my '96 Jetta did -- you should hit the "1" preset button repeatedly to change the first radio code number, "2" for second number...and so on. Hope that works :)
  • kesh1967kesh1967 Member Posts: 1
    Exact same problem! The dealer actually replaced for $220.00 + Tax. Sounds like this was a "problem" with 97 Jettas.... When I just mentioned what was happening, he immediately knew it was the ignition.
  • vw_terpvw_terp Member Posts: 2
    Today I replaced my old air filter with a K&N and drove it down the road to my apt. No indicators, nothing. An hour later I started it up and I noticed the check engine light was still on after I started it so I checked to see what was wrong and the maf sensor was apparently unplugged. I plugged it back in and the car died. I started it back up and the CEL was still on so I started looking around but I find nothing wrong. The car starts and runs just fine. Im thinking when I went to go plug in the maf sensor after replacing my filter, I didn't plug it in all the way so it might have come out when I started it again, but wouldn't that make the car not run? Is it possible that I shorted something out? What's going on here?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Get that K&N out of there!!!

    There are many reasons to NOT use an "oiled guaze" airfilter. They offer no measurable gains but can DESTROY your MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor)

    The oil from the airfilter gets sucked into the intake. It coats the MAF causes it to burn out.

    You have been warned.

    If your MAF is OK, the CEL will go out (reset itself) after a week or so.

    The factory VW airfilter has been measurably shown to filter better and last over 30,000 miles. There is no need to waste your money on a hyped-up "oiled guaze" filter that can destroy your MAF and cause dirt to get into your engine.
  • vw_terpvw_terp Member Posts: 2
    NO!! I had no idea! Is this just particular to VW's or to all EFI cars with a K&N? Thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Any car with a MAF is susceptible to contaminants from an "oiled guaze" airfilter. Other cars that use the cheeper MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor are not nearly as susceptible.

    In ALL cases, the oil tends to migrate and coat the entire intake system over time. This, in turn, collects dirt and can mess up the idle-system and cause other maladies.

    If you do some research about these "oiled guaze" filters, you will find that they are not really all they are hyped up to be.

    A street-driven automible DOES NOT NEED more airflow. No one drives on the street at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) all the time. Under all other conditions, it is the THROTTLEBODY that is the limiting-factor for airflow...not the airfilter.

    For a street-driven automible, it is FARRR more important to have an airfilter that actually FILTERS out the fine particals which can destroy the engine over time. It has been measurably shown that the factory PAPER filters excell at this task.

    The "oiled guaze" filters are great on a racecar or dragster where WOT is used all the time. Also, many of these engines are torn down and rebuilt between races... so a little extra dirt is not a big deal.

    Dont take my word for it, do some research on the internet. There is one website that actually TESTED many different airfilters and MEASURED the important charactoristics of each.
  • kylep86kylep86 Member Posts: 51
    OK, i have an 04 vw jetta 1.8t (automatic), i get about 225-250 miles per tank!!! My friend has an 01 vw golf 1.8t and she gets about 400(manual). For a while i thought it was just a matter of letting it wear in, but not with 22,000 miles now on it. PLEASE HELP! thanks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The manual gets better MPG and the Golf is lighter than your Jetta. Your driving-style may consume more fuel too.

    But even figuring that in, it still seems that you get the short end of the stick.

    Even conserative figures tell us that you have an issue
    250 (miles per tank) / 12 (gallons in tank) = ~21 MPG

    What can you do about it? I am at a loss, this is a pretty new vehicle and I assume no CEL has come on indicating any outstanding issues. It is still under warantee, perhaps complaining to the dealership the next time you have service may get some resolution.... especially if you start to write down the odemeter and fuel each time you fill up.

    I ALWAYS keep a log of every drop of fuel and the odometer for all my vehicles. That is how I KNOW that I get over 50MPG on my Jetta. (and have touched 56MPG!) At least 600 miles per tank if I flog it hard.... 700 miles if I baby it.
  • kylep86kylep86 Member Posts: 51
    ...and when i say 250, thats stretching it!!, i'm currently at half a tank with about 95 miles on it. Also, i've been putting premium in it since i bought it, i can switch over to regular right? THANKS!!!
  • mark1967mark1967 Member Posts: 4
    What should the startup idle be on a Jetta. My 2006 Jetta 2.5L starts at 1500 and then idles down after running about 30 seconds. Is this normal?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The 1.8L turbocharged Audi engine REQUIRES hi-octane fuel. Running "regular" in it can destroy the engine. This is true for most turbocharged engines.

    Higher octaine means SLOWER burning rate of the fuel. If "regular" is used in turbocharged engine, there is possibility of pre-ignition. (clacking sound you somtimes hear on a very hot day while lugging uphill) Pre-ignition can blow a hole in a piston!

    Its your engine....
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    What brand of premium gas are you using? And what kind of road conditions, stop and go traffic or mostly highway, is it fully loaded with 4 passengers and what is the average speed and with A/C or heater on, all these factors all affected your gas mileage. But you only get 17.8 miles per gallon is kind of worse.
    My 04 Jetta GLI (6 speed manual) can get an average of 21 miles per gallon without any passenger and drive 80% on freeway at average 75 miles per hour without A/C or heater on. I notice my car performs better with Chevron/Texaco and second with Sunoco premium gas.
  • gilletegillete Member Posts: 7
    I am having my Jetta fix at a body shop. While they are fixing it, I always have this negative thinking about probably one of the workers there might copy my key and the alarm signal, and steal the car (since I left my home address with the body shop). Is there anyway I can change the alarm signal so that it will only recognize the signal that I set? Anyone has experience with this before?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Remember, being able to unlock the doors with the keyfob is NOT the same as the "immobilizer" which is coded into the key/dashboard.

    It costs about $100 just to get a key made for a VW. Then, it has to be "coded" to work by sticking it in the door while a "known good" key is put in the ignition.

    It is unlikely that anyone would go thru such a hassle....especially if you leave the "Valet key" with them which makes it almost impossible for them to create a usable key from that. (that is part of the design of the Valet Key)

    You CANNOT change the signal which your dashboard reacts to. It is coded from the factory....Unless you wish to change the entire dashboard electronics and replace all the keys to match that.

    The VW key system has many security concepts built into it-- one cannot just take a key to wallymart and have a key made for a buck.
  • handbsimpsonhandbsimpson Member Posts: 2
    car is making loud humming noise. i thought is was tires but im concerned it is rear end or transmission. honestly i cant tell where the noise is from. it seems louder at speeds between 40 and 65 but does it at all times.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I think you are excessively paranoid :) .
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    Talking about the key system, it happens once every 30-35 times that my key cannot turn on the ignition, seems that the car think the key is a duplicate key without proper security code, this happens with the other two keys at the same time, even though I lock and unlock the door with the key many times. Sometimes, I need to wait for a few minutes and it can be turned on.
    Bpeebles, can you explain whats wrong with the keys please? Mine is 04GLI.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Again-- being able to unlock a door has NOTHING to do with the immobolizer system. The typical failure-mode of the immobolizer is that the engine will START... then immedatly quit.

    I have read that replacing the key-sensor that is near where you stick the key in the ignition can often fix such a problem. Although I have never done it, I understand that sensor just pluggs in somwhere under the dashboard and mounts near where the key is stuck in the ignition. I am not sure if the steering wheel (and airbag) has to be removed to get at it or not.
  • jph96jph96 Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 2006 Jetta and the brakes squeak. I called the dealership and the mechanic said ALL Jetta's have squeaky brakes. I don't think I believe this. Anybody have any ideas?
  • bruced2bruced2 Member Posts: 1
    I hit a curb with my 98 Jetta and sustained damage to the left front. (Bent tie rod, control arm, axle.) The repair shop replaced the tie rod assembly, lower control arm, sway bar link, and left axle. The steering is now very stiff. When turning, the steering wheel does not return to center unless I turn it back. Also, the steering wheel is not straight when driving straight. The mechanic did not seem certain as to what the causing the problem, but indicated it could be that the steering gear rack assembly was damaged internally. Does this sound like the cause of the problem? Is there anything else that might cause this problem? The mechanic said that he was having some problems with his alignment equipment. Could improper alignment cause these problems?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have had steering racks get "stiff" in the past.... it was challanging trying to steer the vehicle on winding country roads.

    There is a relatively easy way for them to isolate the problem. With both front wheels off the ground, remove nuts from tie-rod-ends and pickle-fork them off of the spindles.

    Now, each of the front wheels and the steering-rack can be checked individually for "stiffness" thus isolating the problem to the specific area.

    BTW: I had a "used" steering-rack installed from a scrapyard. It saved me a lot a money. In many cases, there is no need to purchase "new" or "rebuilt" suspension components. Most of the stuff you already replaced could have come from a scrapyard.

    Also -- Your car is not "fixed" until an accurate alignment has been performed. I hope you were not charged for an alignment if they ADMITTED that their equipment was having problems.
  • hhayes18hhayes18 Member Posts: 1
    I live in Ohio, the temperature has recently dropped below freezing. When I'm driving all of a sudden I will lose my headlights, fan/defroster, instrument lights, but will keep my radio. I have only noticed the problem when it is cold out. I don't know if the temperature is relevant or irrelevant. The one lead I have to the problem is when this does occur I hear a clicking noise right behind my headlight switch in the dash. If you have any information on this problem please help, this is one of those problems that will drive you insane. Thanks! :confuse:
  • chrisnhchrisnh Member Posts: 22
    My daughter's 96 Jetta is acting up. Did the Dad for Daughter car swap thing an hour ago. Going downhill, the steering wheel randomingly jerks left. Feels like somebody is jerking the wheel 1/2 inch, then lets up, then jerks with more or less force a second or two later. Is this a CV joint going?

    Apply power going downhill and the random jerks seem to disappear. No problem at all with any kind of uphill incline, applying power or not applying power. Don't notice anything with hard right or left turns on a snow covered parking lot with some some potholes. I was listening for clunks or feeling for jerks.

    I grabbed each tire an try to move it. Nothing obvious. Kicked each tire at the 9 o'clock position, didn't observe anything. Looks like both rubber boots on the wheel side are not cracked.

    It is off to the non-VW mechanic tomorrow. Ideas?
  • rosas1rosas1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 00'VR6,both,the vallet prkng. and 1 of the reg. keys are disprogramed, I've called the dealership and they want to charge me $120 to get my keys reprogramed.Does ne1 knows how to reprogram them? Please help!!!!!
  • handbsimpsonhandbsimpson Member Posts: 2
    i too had a key problem, radio reprogram. according to vw themselves. all reprogamable problems must be done with computers and the machines which only the service dept. have. welcome to my nightmare. im considering getting rid of my vw after only 3 months of ownership.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Please be more specific... are you asking to re-program the KEYFOB (buttons) or the KEY (starting engine)?

    Re-programming the KEYFOB is not a big deal. Hold the button for unlock down for a full second let it go and use the key to unlock the door.

    If that doesn't work you will need to reprogram the key which means you need at least 2 keys. It requires the key to be programmed to be stuck in the drivers door keyhole and the known-good key to be stuck in the ignition.

    1 switch ignition key on and get out and close the door.
    2 with the 2nd key turn the door lock to the unlock position and hold it there until you hear beeps from the horn.(When programming multiple KEYFOBS, you should get 1 beep for the first remote, 2 beeps for the second and so on. )
    3 Quickly press the unlock button on the remote once,if you have more than 1 remote to do they must all be done within one minute.
    4 again turn the key in the door lock to the off position and hold it there until you get 1 beep (about 10 sec)
    5 open the door and turn the ign key off.

    And to turn your auto up auto down windows back on, run the glass down then back up again 2x from the door lock.
  • allhorizonallhorizon Member Posts: 483
    VW brakes tend to squeak a bit more than others - it is caused by the brake pads they use (which are designed to provide good stopping distance, which they do quite well). They also appear to produce more of the black brake dust. One way of reducing squeaking is to brake a bit harder and for shorter distances. Never ride the break, try to downshift and use engine braking if otherwise you would have to just barely touch the brakes. This also helps avoid accumulation on the rotors (sometimes incorrectly referred to as warped rotors). Again, this is not a performance issue, but if it really bothers you a lot, you can have any mechanic change the pads with another brand.
  • allhorizonallhorizon Member Posts: 483
    Here are a few hints on increasing gas mileage:
    - keep your tires inflated toward the higher end of what you can live with, in terms of comfort. Try 36-37psi cold. Check tire pressure often. You can fill your tires warm a bit higher, if close to home, and then measure again (with a digital gauge) in the morning, releasing any excess pressure.
    - accelerate briskly (close to wide open throttle), but shift early (e.g., below 2600rpm). Just don't lug the engine (don't make it work hard under 1600 rpm or so).
    - drive as if you just don't like to use your brakes. If you have to use your brakes a lot, this means you are wasting gas, because you accelerated too much, or kept using gas when you could have coasted to the stop.
    - make sure you are using high-quality, VW certified synthetic oil, only.

    If you already drive like this and/or all of this does not make a difference, your engine may need to be checked out. You should be getting close to or quite above 30mpg at 65mph highway.
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