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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • lilafaerielilafaerie Member Posts: 4
    Well, I finally took the car to a mechanic that spent an insane amount of time diagnosing the problem, switching out parts and testing every wire and pump in sight. Final diagnoses: Distributor. Not the distributor cap and other miscellaneous parts - the distributor itself, which he has offered to replace with used parts. I'm banking on the car NOT doing this again within the next couple years and the used part holding out.

    I have not received the car back yet to give it a full endorsement, but I'm too excited to have my car back after a near-month of this headache. I just had to update.
  • cwimmer77cwimmer77 Member Posts: 1
    I did try this and it worked right away. Its a little anoying just waiting for the radio to turn off again. Does anyone know if the same thing with the fuse happens if the radio is replaced by an aftermarket radio? Thanks for the fuse #42 info.
  • patkelly7patkelly7 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2000 Jetta. The dealership acts like they have never heard of this problem before and claims not to be able to replicate the problem. Has anyone figured out what the fix is for this problem. The dealership said the fluid was low, but as soon as I left the dealership I put the car in reverse and it had the same problem, the car revved like it was in reverse with no movement. Please help.
  • fritzlerfritzler Member Posts: 1
    Hi Sean, my 2000 TDI is behaving exactly like yours did... what did you end up doing?Was it the MAF sensor? Cant afford to take it to VW, hoping you can offer some advice.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Dont be so hasty about not going to a VW dealersip. You may be eligible for the MAF Extended warantee.

    It is also likely that your intake plemum is plugged up. This tends to happen if TDI is "babied" combined with some other factors.
  • tveinottetveinotte Member Posts: 3
    When I purchased this car for my daughter,it seemed to work
    perfect. When we arrived home & let the car sit for a couple
    of hours , started the engine noticed blue & black smoke.
    smoke only lasts moments , then the engine runs smooth & the smoke is gone.She has been driving the car of 6 months & love's it.
    I have changed the plugs,cap&rotor, air filter, oil& filter (twice).Used good grade high milage oil . There is a
    lot of sluge in the engine,& changing the oil does not seem
    to be removing it. I also found a plastic moulded hose connected from what I think is the PCV valve to the valve cover that was cracked. I replace the hose but the engine still smokes on start-up ONLY sometimes . The engine uses
    very little oil ,does not use any anti-freeze. Seems a little sluggish in first gear but once you are in second gear & up the car has lots of power.Checked the compression , all cylinder are even @ 170 lbs. The catlic converter has
    a rattle , I am wondering if this could cause the oxygen sensor to not work proverly . The car is hard on gas & seems to be running rich. Any one know there the PCV Valve
    is located on a 2 liter or any ideas on the problem.

    Father needs help
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This sounds like a textbook case of worn valve guides or old and hard valve stem seals---which makes sense given the high mileage of the car and condition of the oil.

    Basically oil left on the top of the engine after it shuts off then leaks down through the valve stem seals or worn guides and drips onto the tops of the pistons. When the car is started, this oil is burned off, and then the engine smooths out and burns cleaner.

    This can be fixed but given the mileage on the engine, I wouldn't do correct surgery at this point, but rather live with it if you can.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    hard on gas, poor power... catalytic convertor?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    nah, because it would run WORSE at higher speeds, not better, right, if the catalytic were clogged. As for being hard on gas, who knows with that high mileage what's up with that....you'd need to do a careful fuel consumption test to see if the car is in spec or not.

    I guess you could run a catalytic by-pass test pipe for a day and see how that works.

    You could test for bad valve stem seals by driving to the top of a hill, then driving downhill with your foot off the gas...this creates high vacuum and should suck oil through the worn seals or guides....now, being very careful and aware of traffic ahead and behind, PUNCH the gas and observe if there is a cloud of blue smoke behind you at that point.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    you suggested a good test.

    actually, i was thinking that a clogged cat would result in loss of power and increased consumption... harder to get uphill.

    i imagine a cat convertor death spiral: too much fuel, nukes the cat some, modifies the back pressure, causes more fuel to be consumed, possibly more cat damage and so on and so on.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you know, when you hit 176K, which is just about the normal life span for most cars, you can get all kinds of weird things going on that defy normal run of the mill problem-solving. Maybe a computer scan would at least give you a place to hang your hat and begin a proper diagnostic. Where it gets tricky is when you have more than one thing going on, or when the REAL problem throw a code to the symptom, rather than the disease---such as "faulty 02 sensor". Question then becomes, well, what is causing the 02 sensor to freak out?

    If I had to take a wild guess, and knowing Jettas, I'd suspect badly worn or corroded fuel injectors for openers.
  • bora1bora1 Member Posts: 42
    Sorry to "burst your bubble" Jeff. The new DSG 6-speeds are NOT from Japan; but rather from the good ol' USA. They are manufactured by Borg-Warner; an American company. The 5-speed tipronic transmissions were manufactured by Delphi (a spin-off of General Motors).
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    What bubble :confuse: .

    I was not refering to the DSG. The conventional 6 speed automatic is from Japan. This is according to our window sticker. I had also indicated who the manufacturer is, according what I have read. This was related to someone stating that VW has had problematic transmissions, so I was wondering if those were from a different source.

    So anyway, it does sound like they did change suppliers if the previous automatics were from Delphi.
  • sleepingsleeping Member Posts: 1
    I am Korean
    1999 jetta rebuilted car..
    may be second holding..
    R is Ok.
    D is some problem.
    RPM is rise when I push the accelerator but when I remove my foot speed is down too fast with RPM.
    diagnosis tell transmission problem.
    but transsion shope don't.
    what do i do?.
  • emilywemilyw Member Posts: 2
    What does the MIL light mean when it comes on?
  • craigracraigra Member Posts: 2
    There is no durability with this car. If you want reliability, look elsewhere. My ownership experience with a 99 Jetta VR6 was miserable. In 7 years I spent over $5,000 on repairs alone. This excludes normal maintenance. Recently, the throttle control module went out, and it would have been $1,100 to fix. Finally drew the line and bought a Honda.

    But here's the thing - even with an automatic, this car was silly fun to drive. It was both my best and my worst car.

    A VW requires acceptance of high repair & maintenance cost and a AAA Plus membership.
  • eo19xxeo19xx Member Posts: 4
    MIL=MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT.
  • emilywemilyw Member Posts: 2
    Yes I know that but what is wrong with the car and how big of a problem is it?
  • eo19xxeo19xx Member Posts: 4
    THE MIL WHEN ON (NOT FLASHING) MEANS THAT THE ECU HAS DETECTED SOME FAULT THAT MAY AFFECT EMISSIONS. IT COULD ALSO BE A O2 SENSOR, LOOSE GAS CAP, OR MALFUNCTIONING COLLING SYSTEM. IF IT FLASHES WHILE DRIVING IT COULD DAMAGE THE CAT CONVERTER SO I SUGGEST GETTING IT CHECK OUT ASAP.
  • tveinottetveinotte Member Posts: 3
    User 777

    Thanks for the ideas, I am going to clean or replace the pcv
    valve & run some engine cleaner through to clean up the sluge.Reading the manual I have suggests that a falty EVAP
    purge valve will cause an over rich problem. The tail pipe
    is always black with oil residue & soot. But the engine burns
    very little oil. I read how to check the evap valve , going to try that. Hard to get any work done on the car, does not
    stop much.
  • golendiamondeygolendiamondey Member Posts: 1
    :cry: My poor VW Jetta (91') She is so sick, she needs a brain... I am hoping that someone has some idea where I can get her a brain without having to go to the "Land of OZ"...I am sure that the "Wizard of Oz" could help but I need expert help here....Anyone got any Leads? By the Way I am located in SC......
    Thanks :sick:
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    There was a problem with the power window clips around this vintage Jetta. VW had switched to plastic clips which had a very high failure rate. VW has a voluntary replacement program for up to 7 years and will fix this problem at no charge. I am very surprised that the mechanic was not aware of this.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    When your engine gets up in the miles, consider swtching to the "max life" oils. They are esther based oils that can help swell the oil seals around valve guides to cut down on oil burned. As I approach 100K miles on my vehicles I switch to these types of motor oils. I like the Valvoline Max Life Synthetic 5W-30, when I started using it on one of my high mileage vehicles I found it cut my oil consumption in half.
  • jrm3jrm3 Member Posts: 1
    On a VW Jetta GL (1992) the clutch was slipping because I dumped some antifreeze down the timing hole. I removed what I thought was a clutch drain which turned out to be the reverse shaft securing bolt. After driving for about a half an hr fluid poured from the hole. Anyways the bolt now hits a hard stop (doesn't thread). Is this because something needs to be aligned?

    Is there any way of aligning and installing the bolt w/out disassembly?

    Many thanks,
    JRM3
  • smitteyb11smitteyb11 Member Posts: 6
    Hi Guys, I'm the owner of a 2000 Jetta GLS with a constant check engine light illumination. I just drove it back from South FL to Central New York. New York requires vehicle inspection and takes it VERY seriously. With a check engine light illuminated, the vehicle will automatically fail inspection. My temporary inspection has expired and here is my dilemma:

    I took it to a mechanic to get hooked up to the computer, he immediately got:

    1- Cylinder ONE misfire
    2- Gas cap not secured

    I had them clear the computer and delete the code.

    I then drove it home to NY. While driving the light came back on. I took it to another mechanic and hooked it up to the computer. This is what I got:

    1- Throttle Control Arm

    I had him clear it, and drove it and it came back on.

    I took it to a third mechanic and he got:

    CODE P1128- Unknown.

    I looked up the P1128 code, and its a Gas problem. My question is, could this be a faulty computer? I have NEVER got the same code twice. I don't have the $$ to make many repairs, so I'm a little concerned about this. Thank-you.
  • writergeekwritergeek Member Posts: 1
    Okay. Here's a two-parter for a 95 Jetta GL...

    First I had a coolant leak. Was putting in coolant about once a week. Would often find a big puddle under my car.

    Then the leak stopped.

    Then, in what I thought was an unrelated incident, the car made a dinging noise and flashed the oil light. I assumed it needed oil and put some in. The next day, I checked the oil dipstick and saw that there was way too much oil in there.

    I am having someone drain the oil down to the correct level tonight. But I'm wondering...

    Why else would the oil light and dinging kick in?
    Is it related to the coolant leak or mysterious leak stop?

    Once I have the oil out, do you think it's safe enough to drive until next friday when I can afford to have a mechanic take a look???

    Please speak in layman's terms. THANKS.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    What engine is this and how long have you owned this car? Make sure gas cap sealing surfaces are not damaged and are free of dirt. Always go five clicks to insure adequate seal. I've also heard Jetta owners complain that letting the fuel get low can trip the light. What repair are the mechanics recommending to solve this problem?
  • smitteyb11smitteyb11 Member Posts: 6
    This is the 4 Cylinder/2.0 Liter Manual TRAN Engine. The gas cap light was correct because there was no gas cap at the time. Thank you for thre response, I don't know what else to do.
  • smac3rdsmac3rd Member Posts: 2
    :) its the secondary air pump doing its job untill the cat is warm.....very normal sound
  • smac3rdsmac3rd Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 1/2 jetta GLS, 85k mileage. recently the speedometer began to fluctuate, not getting a accurate mileage reading, reads less than the actual. car has the 4 speed auto transmission. any feed back would be great.

    Thanx
  • drjacqdrjacq Member Posts: 1
    interested in airbag deployment of jetta III, circumstances (description of crash), injuries, etc.
  • hokiesreehokiesree Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I own a 2001 Jetta GLX and I faced the same problem. It is to do with the Gas Cap. Most Jetta owners come across this problem. Fill gas and make sure the cap clicks atleast 3 times. If not the EVAP system sensor in the car senses a gas leak and the Emission Malfunction Indicator comes on. Just make sure the gas cap is secured tight and continue driving. There is no effect on the driveability of the car. Keep driving the car for 2-3 days normally and the light would go off automatically. The computer in the car senses that the problem in the car has been resolved and the indicator goes off. This is a very common problem with the Jetta, so don't spend a buck on it. I obtained this information from a VW dealership technician.

    Hope this helps!!
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Why in the world would you drive it without a gas cap? And... what does your mechanic say needs a repair that is so expensive?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The "oil light" (as you call it) does not indicate if the engine is low on oil. It is an indicator of oil pressure. If the oil pressure is low, then your engine can quickly become an expensive boat-anchor.

    The ONLY way to accurately measure oil level is to use the dipstick.

    -----
    The 2 issues you describe *may* be related. Consider checking for the following problems.
    Is the antifreeze getting into the engine oil?
    Is engine oil getting into the antifreeze?
  • rsenger1rsenger1 Member Posts: 4
    I don't know if I can help you, but if it is any consolation my 98 has a similar problem. First my drivers side window stopped working, then a couple of weeks later my passenger side quit. The drivers window still works with the key in the lock so I know the motor is fine. The console switch won't work for either one. Still trying to locate the problem. If I find out I will let you know. Anyone have any ideas?
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    Try removing the switches and soaking them in alcohol. Swish them around in the alcohol, then air dry. Reinstall and see if they work. If not, you may have to replace the switches. They do get dirty and corroded over time. Vinyl conditioner, dust, and moisture get into them.
  • broushbroush Member Posts: 2
    The wires that flex between the door and the main body of the car break.
  • broushbroush Member Posts: 2
    This car has been the absolute worst car I have ever owned. My transmission is now slipping and the Chiltons repair manual claims that it is too much for the shade tree mechanic to handle. I just wanted to change the fluid and filter, maybe reset the transmission computer, can anyone help with either?
  • benidormbenidorm Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your post. I am having a similar wet weather problem with my 1998 Jetta. I am in the process of troubleshooting it. I will let you know what happens. Would anyone happen to know where the wire that runs from the ignition coil that disappears under the windshield gutter goes? It also joins a wire that connects by the throttle cable.
  • silversbulletsilversbullet Member Posts: 3
    I bought the computer interface from Valcom with it I set my doors to unlock when the key is removed. Now when I remove my key all door unlock and when the car reaches 15 mph all door lock. The dealer does not know how to operate his computer.
    2006 silver jetta package 2 tdi with Nav.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    The dealer does not know how to operate his computer.

    You are right about that and you do not even need vagcom, this door unlock setting is covered in the owners manual.
  • saukkosaukko Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever get an answer to this? I have a similar sound - just one or two mettalic clicks at low speed on acceleration or deceleration or over a bump.
  • saukkosaukko Member Posts: 2
    Jim, any response or further dealer action on this? I have similar ping/click.
  • justlooking21justlooking21 Member Posts: 1
    I am seriously looking into buying a 99 Jetta with 120,000 miles on it. I am wondering if most of these problems that I've read about still exist and get worse when the car is in this condition... If this is the case, then it's not worth the money. Please let me know if I should or should not continue looking into buying the car.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    See this link for some guidelines:

    600kgolfgt, "Volkswagen Passat: Sludge Issues" #99, 13 Jul 2006 7:13 am

    Also:

    Make sure you write down the vehicle's VIN number and run a Carfax on it.

    Make sure all recall/Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) related items have been performed on this car.

    I would have a good independent mechanic perform a thorough inspection of the vehicle.

    HTH
  • leeannrleeannr Member Posts: 7
    Last week while on vacation, the "brake warning" light in our Jetta TDI wagon came on and started beeping. We checked the brake fluid level and it was fine, fuse okay, the brakes worked--no problem. Since it was Saturday night in a vacation town, there was no VW dealer around, no shops open. My husband reassured me all was well, and the next day we drove home about 150+ miles with no braking problem, but with that infernal beeping going on and the brake light blinking on and off. We discovered during this past week that the AC wasn't working, nor would the air recirculation button work.

    We took it to the dealer and after waiting for over 3 hours, they declared that it was a fuse, charged us ~$40 and sent us on our way.

    It seems rather suspicious to us that they took 3 hours to find a blown fuse and change it, especially since my husband had already checked fuses and they were okay. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, what caused it?
    Lee Ann
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Getting away with a $40 bill from a dealer is somewhat of a miracle these days, so maybe it was legit. Could have been a stuck plunger in the master cylinder (it's like a toilet bowl float) that triggers a wrong signal, or a bad warning light switch in the emergency brake lever. Sometimes a fuse looks good but isn't making contact, and just needs to be jiggled around.
  • leeannrleeannr Member Posts: 7
    But it's so bizarre that they took 3 hours to change a fuse. I just wondered if there might be more wrong that they don't want to tell us about because it's still under warranty. Maybe after the warranty expires, THEN it will come out what's really wrong. Can you tell I don't trust dealers? Especially this one, that I had a problem with several years ago with my mother's Subaru.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I guess if it doesn't re-occur then you were wrong and if it does come right back, then you were right :P I doubt they spent three hours working on it, but I'm wondering why they charged you at all.
  • jess11jess11 Member Posts: 2
    Ok I am driving my fiancees car while he is in Iraq it is a 2001 wolfsburg jetta 1.8t, the check engine light came on 3 times i had it checked and the first two times was told it was fine then it started "cutting out" and the third time they told me it was the spark plugs so i had them changed. now it is still cutting out and it has a faint knocking sound someone told me that it sounds like the lifters are sticking i have no idea what that is or how much it will cost to have fixed. help please!!! :confuse:
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