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I am now on my 3rd transmission, and even though the car runs now, i'm planning for the future by watching for signs of transmission rejection. Does anyone have some info? A word? Anything? Oh yeah, and the engine light never went off.
Let's keep this conversation all in one place. I've renamed one of your new discussions so that the title reflects better what you want to know, so let's continue at this link: vwregretta, "Is my Jetta a lemon?" #1, 25 Jul 2006 6:03 pm.
Also, I'm not sure if you understand that this is a message board, not a chat room. Response time will vary, but please don't think that just because you don't have any responses in just a few hours that you won't get some eventually.
See you over in the other discussion!
Do you feel any difference for foot feel on clutch before the clutch blew? Is it harder to press the clutch?
The A/C only works when the fan blower fan is on speed 1. As soon as the fan is changed to any other speed, the green light goes out on the A/C button, the fan continues to blow but not conditioned air. I replaced the board, It is not climate controlled, just manual dial (red/blue). Sounds like a relay problem but not sure. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
The good news is that the MAF is coverd by an extended warantee.
NEVER EVER BUY A VW Product again THEY DONT STAND BY THEIR PRODUCTS and THEIR SERVICE SUKCS!!!! NO WONDER THEIR SALES ARE GOING DOWN.
When you called VWoA customer service, what did you want them to tell you? They can't diagnose the problem without a dealer seeing the car. Maybe you shoudl take your car to another dealer and get a second opinion!!
BTW: VW Sales have increased from last year!!
Also when talking to VWoA cust service I just want them to research the prob and fix it. Also I have tried taking to different dealerships they are all the same :mad:
So I finally get the car back two days ago and now the engine light is steady lit..indicating exhaust/emission issues....do you think I have a lemon on my hands??
Oh yea, one other thing I thought was weird and didn't find out until after I purchased the car...went on to carfax and the VIN shows that the car arrived at a michigan dealer, was there for several months (late 2005), then the dealer auctioned it to the dealer I bought it from...is it typical for dealerships to auction off pretty much brand new cars?
As for your question about a vehicle being "acutioned" from dealer to dealer.... this is not unusual. If a dealership has a customer for a specific model/options/color... they will often "trade" with another dealership to get what that customer wants.
On the other hand.... you *may* have one of those cars which had an "unfortunate accident" in tranzit from the factory and was rebuilt.... technically, that is still a "new" car.
I have heard stories of cars that "fell off the truck" on the way to the dealership. I have PERSONALLY seen a car on the back of a car-carrier which the hood had popped open and was crushed around the wihdshield by the wind force. (that truck with the car-carrier was traviling at least 70MPH when I saw it go by... the driver had no clue about the hood of that car on the back of his truck.)
The car drove like a dream. I was most impressed with the 6 spd auto and the sound of the 5cyl motor. It felt much like driving a Volvo S60. The luxury items in pkg 2 like 3 way memory for drivers seat and power pass. seat are a pleasant surprise in a car like the Jetta.
The price is about $5000 off sticker. I'm suspicious about this car, but I'm sold on the A5 Jetta!
Also drove an 06 Jetta TDI manual PKG 1. I'm really looking for Jetta TDI w/ PKG 2, but there are slim pickings left on the TDIs... the 2.5 is not as bad an alternative as I thought it might be.
PS- I was surprised to see that the 07 Rabbits on the lot were all assembled in Wolfsburg, Germany VIN WVWxxxxxxxxxx.
Perhaps we're getting the German built cars until the Puebla Mexico plant is up to full speed??? Get ready for Mexico/Germany build quality p*issing matches on the Rabbit forum!
I have a 2000 Jetta 1.8 T and was having this problem of constant check engine light coming on with the "P0411 SECONDARY AIR SYSTEM INCORRECT FLOW DETECTED STORED IN DTC" and the VW Technician could not find anything wrong anywhere and he would clear the code and asked me to ignore it. Eventually that led to my MIL (bulb - LED) to burn out and when I recently got that LED replaced, the MIL is back on with the same code and also something wrong with the Oxygen sensor.
Could it be related to the software update as posted or something else? Am unable to find a reliable VW tech/dealer in Atlanta area.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
You really need to find somone who is familiar with emissions systems and how to diagnose problems with them. If your are so inclined, a VAGCOM may also be an option for you.
lets get the easy ones out of the way.
*) NO -- the trunk DOES NOT open when you 'release' it. (I like it this way, an accidently 'released' trunk wont open up on the highway or fill with rain overnight)
*) The TDI is very quiet for a diesel engine. VW has already done everything possible to make it quiet. (I wonder if your engine-cover is not installed?)
The best "kit" available is to always-ALWAYS use a diesel additive which increases the Cetane. It can make noticable difference in quieting the engine. I put ~6oz of additive in EVERY tankfull of fuel and regularly get over 650 miles per tankful. (Vermont to Ohio on ONE tank of fuel...This is over 55MPG)
---------
NOW-- on to the more difficult question - your brakes.
VWs have VERY powerful brakes. my 2003 TDI can throw somthing off the passengers seat by just touching the brake pedal with my big toe. Your brakes are NOT RIGHT!
The brake pedal is NOT supposed to sink to the floor. This phenomenon is most often caused by bad master cylinder. There are few other possible causes for a sinking brake pedal. (ABS accumulator?)
Dont forget that a diesel engine DOES NOT have a supply of vacuum like a gasoline engine so there is a seperate vacuum pump on the TDI. This distinct difference needs to be considerd when working on TDI brakes.
You also say that the brake pedal feels "spongy" I am wondering if there is air in the hydrolic system. The ABS system is very difficult to bleed if air gets in it.
I know that some vehicles make "gulping" sounds when the level in the fueltank is at a point where one can hear the sloshing of the fuel within the tank. Perhaps that is what your are hearing?
Relax - you are "learning" the sounds that your new car makes. They will become commonplace background sounds as you get accoustomed to them.
You should be concentrating on performing a good break-in of your new engine so it will give you many years of trouble-free service. Now is the time you should be concensencly thinking about your new engine as you drive and how best to wear-in the moving parts. This includes occasional bursts of full-throttle accelleration followed by coasting so the rings seat well. (and never EVER use cruze-control while breaking in a new engine)
I have had my jetta 2.5 for a month, lux package, NAV. I love it except I am getting about 257 miles per tank. I have around 950 miles on car so far.
The service guy told me not to bring it in, this is normal as the cars break in. But seeing as it is leased and I only have 10,000 miles per yr, I do not have the patience and feel the jerk should give me gas money.
No one else I know with a VW seems to be able to relate to this. Can anyone relate or share some wisdom?
Thanks so much!
I still contend that after about 1000 miles, it is good to use occasional bursts of full-throttle accelleration followed by coastdown. The accelleration forces the piston rings to seat against the cylinder walls. The coastdown, allows the rings to "float" and also makes sure things cool off a bit.
You will find that the MPG will increase for up to 20,000 miles as compression builds and the moving parts get burnished in. Also, well-seated rings will reduce the chances of ending up with an engine that consumes oil.
If the cylinder walls get "glazed" before the rings seat, it is almost impossible to get the rings to seat. An engine in this condition can have low MPG and burn oil for its entire lifetime.
Thus, any behavior that consencesly helps the rings seal is benifecial to MPG and engine life.
The owners manual break-in process is basically some guidelines to help non-technical folks not destroy their new engine. This protects the AUTOMAKERS from having to replace an engine under warantee that was trashed due to poor break-in. It is not really intended to provide a complete guide for best engine performance.
Personally, I expect more from my automobiles than many folks. A minimum of 12 years and 150,000 miles of service. I also like the >55 MPG that my TDI is now giving me. I know that careful break-in has contributed to this. With todays fuel prices, it is nice to get over 650 miles per tankful.
I also know folks that have to add oil to their engine regularly. I NEVER have to add any oil between the 10,000 mile oil-changes. Again, this can be traced to a carful break-in when the engine was new.