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Please advise me. I took my 2004 Jetta to the dealership yesterday for the 20,000 mile checkup. They noticed that the ribbed v-belt was worn on the outside edge. On further inspection, they saw that the crankshaft pulley had a small dent in it that was putting pressure on the belt and causing it to wear. The dent looked shiny and therefore new and they concluded that while driving, a rock must have flown under and hit the crankshaft causing the dent. This is considered an outside influence and therefore not covered under the warranty. The cost to have it fixed will be $270. The service adviser said that they were absorbing most of the cost of the labor. I explained that I only use my car to go to the grocery store and drive to work and sometimes on the highway. He said this could've happened when I was driving as low as 20 mph. My question is, shouldn't this be considered as manufacturer defect that it is not built to withstand normal driving? We had a long discussion and he showed me the damage but he said that the warranty would not cover this. Does anyone have any suggestions on trying to get this covered?
Thank you,
Jasmine
Well I waited but got it in there yesterday, explained my problem to them and guess what.....THEY WERE ABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. How about that!!
The mechanic printed the test results and will give me those when I pick my car up. Anyway, I hung up the phone and called the dealership that has looked at my car in the past. Told them I need to make an appointment and she pulls my information up. She says "What are we looking at?" and I told her the transmission. And she was quick to jump the bullet and said "Well how do you know somethings wrong" bolded in B*TCH talk. So I told her that since her mechanics (she is the service manager) weren't able to duplicate the problem, I had someone else look at it and got it to do exactly what I've been telling them it was doing. I proceeded to tell her that I will be bringing those test results with me and she said "Well they won't be the same as our tests...'cause we're dealership and all." And I said "I'm aware of that because their test results showed the problem and yours didn't." The only reason I got lippy was because of the tone she was taking with me.
So, she says "The next opening I have is January 22nd." So I said "put me down." When I hung up the phone, I was ticked. I called another VW dealer about 10 minutes from me and told them my problem. And his response was "Having those test results from the other mechanic will be a lot of help. And we will definatly fix the problem. How does Friday sound?" So I made my appointment there, cancelled the other one, and hopefully will have a transmission that functions the way it should.
Hopefully, there won't be anymore negative follow ups but we'll see. After all, it is a car.
I have a Jetta 2000 and recently I found some issue with windshield wipers. they are moving really slowly and I need to check for the motor and linkage on arms.
but I couldn't reach that section because they are covered by a plastic shield.
could anybody help me to reach the wiper motor or the linkage system.
Thanks,
The shafts where the windsheild-wipers rotate are getting hard for the motor to move. The lubrication is probubly dried out. The "fix" is simple enough... lubricate the problem-areas. The tough part is GETTING into the area.
Another option is to simply replace the entire wiper moter transmission assembly. (which includes new wiper-axles).
Here is a link to a discussion about this windshield-wiper problem. It discusses both of the options I mention above plus several others. It also has photos and detaild instructions about how to libricate the shafts.
Did the VW dealership or Corp office okay a repair to your engine???
My 2004 Jetts 2.0 Auto is using quite a bit of oil. VW says that 1qt per 1000mi is normal. I do not agree with VW!! Are that any other VW owners has similar problems; any recall, service bulletins..etc. HELP!!
I think the 2.0 is used in other model Bugs, Golf..etc. Do they all burn or consume oil at that rate??
Here is the official Oil Consumption TSB from VW
I wonder if your engine was not broken in properly? (Like using the cruze-control during the breakin period) There is lso a possibility of other factors causing oil-consumption on your 2004. (like allowing the oil to run low or problems with the crankcase-breather) Are you CERTAIN that it is not leaking somwhere?
In any case, it is not really a "problem" per-se. As long as you keep oil in the engine, it will last a very long time.
Each of my 2 daughters have 2001 VWs. One of them consumes NO oil and the other one consumes about 1qt per 1000 miles. She carries a case of oil in the hatch and adds as necessarry.
The check engine light on my 2002 Jetta 1.8T came on this weekend while I was away visiting my parents. I drove it about 100 miles with the light on because - well- it was running and I wanted to get there. I took it into the shop my Dad uses (for an oil change and a check on it) and the mechanic ran the diagnostic test. The test indicates that I need a new catalytic converter.
I bought this car used last year from a non-VW dealer. I bought the extended warranty but the catalytic converter is not covered (figures!!!!!!!!).
Right after I purchased the car the dealer I purchased it from had to send it over to VW to replace engine coils b/c the car was just loosing power after exiting the highway. That was last March and about 8k miles ago.
Could this have affected the cat converter?
Also, looks like there was a recall for this part but NOT on my 2002 Model. (ugh!)
Any one have the same problems?
I beleive on your 2002 that covers all emmissions equipment for 10 years / 100,000 miles.
Catalytic converter
Onboard diagnostic
ECM
Really good to know!!!! Does anyone know if the warranty requires all service records? I bought my car used so I have mine but not the previous owners.
Like I said before READ THE EMMISSSIONS WARANTEE THAT CAME WITH YOUR CAR. That document should be correct for your specific automobile.
thanks again
Thanks for your help!
any guesses?
Reading your post described my current problem perfectly! Did you ever find what was wrong? My engine light is on, and I took my car in for this exact reason about a month ago.When my engine light came on again two weeks ago I went to have the codes read. My mechanic told me the engine was running too rich on fuel, but he didn't know why. Now my car won't even drive without the rpm's surging out of control.
Please help if you have any information.
Your 2001 was part of an "extended warantee" pertaining to the MAF. Here is a link to the details. ==>
http://home.comcast.net/~peebsrus/MAF-Refund-Page1.jpg
When I diagnosed a bad MAF in my daughters 2001, the dealership gladly replaced the MAF at no charge.
Also, your 2001 may run rich due to bad ETC ( Engine Temparture Sensor). (The sensor incorrectly tells the computer that the engine is always cold... so it injects too much fuel)
The ETC is less than $20 and is pretty easy to replace, (My daughter and I replaced the ETC in her Gulf in the dark. She held the flaslight and I had it replaced within 5 minutes.)
PS: If you mechanic really did not know the reasons your engine is running too rich... mebbie it is time to get another mechanic. This is pretty basic stuff.
Mine has both MAF and ETC replaced recently, but after driving for about 2 weeks, the engine light is on again and I feel the turbo lag pretty seriously. Can someone share your experience and knowledge about why I'm having this symptoms? Appreciate your help!!!
Without knowing the code which is causing the CEL (Check engine Light), we cannot help you very much.
Many auto-parts places will "read the code" for you for free. Perhaps if you can tell us the code.
The oil and coolant are fine. Any ideas?
It appears that the transmission is engaging after a 1-2 sec delay when I give it gas. Of course this causes a quick surge or jolt forward.
So far, the geniuses at the dealership have replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the Ignition (after pulling some stored faults in the computer)despite my belief that it is a transmission or computer problem.
I would like to hear if anyone else has had a similar problem (and how it was solved) before the dealership takes anymore of my money for doing nothing. Thanks!
She just bought it used 3 months ago. 92000 miles on it.
The Check engine light has a code for rich fuel. Has been on since purchasing it.
We had it towed to CarX. They did a diagnostic for $70.
They said it was the fuel pump.
They wanted $420.00 for part and $70 to install.
So we towed it by rope behind my son's car to home.
We bought a pump from TrePerformance on Ebay.
$80 for part. $40 S&H (Express USPS)
I put the pump in but slots on bottom will not line up to tabs on bottom of gas tank. It seems only three line up.
Connected all and still it will not start.
Took pressure sensor off at front of engine and there is gas there. Also supply line has pressure in it.
What else could be wrong?
What else can be wrong and how should I check?
I tried the old pump while outside of the tank by connecting it to 12v and it seemed to be turning. Of course it may not be up to pressure.
Thanks for any help.
A fuel-injected engine runs rich if the computer is fed bad information from a sensor. There are several ways to troubleshoot the sensors. (Or just replace the inexpensive ones and hope for the best.)
Consider the (Engine Temparture Sensor) then the MAF (Mass AirFlow) sensor as the most probable culprits.
You should have fixed this long ago when you noticed the CEL was on. Your daughter is spending wayy too much in gasoline with the engine running rich. It is well worth taking the time to fix it the right way.
But what do you think is wrong that it will not start even with enough gas at the fuel pressure sensor?
This troubleshooting technique holds true if you are working on a 1-cylinder lawnmower...or an exotic 12-cylinder sportscar. (Why do you think that most engine troubleshooting books have several color photos of sparkplug tips in various conditions?)
By looking at the insulator-tips on the sparkplugs, you should be able to tell a lot about what is going on.
Another thing I learned around age 12 is that an internal-combustion engine needs only 3 things to run..... compression, ignition and fuel. Using the process of elimination, you should easily be able to determine what the problem is.
HINT: Determine which of these 3 things is missing
NOTE: Unplugging the MAF will definately cause the CEL to light up. This is because the onboard computer will fall back into a "failsafe" mode to keep the engine running.
Also, Keep in mind that another sensor (The O2 sensor screwed into the exhaust pipe) can cause rich running.
Basic lesson about electronic fuel injection:
The onboard computer monitors the O2 sensor and adjusts the amount of fuel injected to maintain optimum effiency. The signal from the MAF is used to modify the fuel injection based on airflow into the engine.
Finally, the Engine Temp sensor is used to further modify the injected fuel based on when the engine is cold or hot. A common failure mode is for the ET sensor to tell the conputer that the engine is ALWAYS cold (even when it is hot)... this causes a rich running condition.
For the last couple months, when I'm driving my car, inside the cabin area there's a strong exhaust smell that sometimes smells like gas. It seems to be coming in through the vents, and it switches between exhaust smell and a heavy gas smell. It doesn't seem to be leaking gasoline, as I've raised the car and checked. However its fuel consumption right now is out of this world, its horrbile on gas and seems to be dumping raw fuel/ running very rich. I can't seem to figure out what the problem could possibly be. If you guys could give me any suggestions or idea's on what it might be it would make a world of a difference.
thanks
*)Volkswagen Beetle Owners: Problems & Solutions
*)VW Jetta TDI
*)Jetta Engine Questions
*)Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair
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I started off by changing OEM Cap/Rotor and Spark Plugs hoping to solve the burning rich problem, and it worked like a charm. Turns out one of my cables was shot, so i must have been running on 3cyc's and the computer was probably compensating for the power loss. This lead to excessive fuel consumption, it was pretty much dumping fuel like a 747 planning a crash landing.
While I was doing the spark plugs, I noticed my breather hose which looked fine from my viewing side, had actually eroded from the side facing the engine. It had a massive hole in it and i noticed oil residue against the engine. When I removed it, it was fragile and breaking with simple squeezing. I took the part to VW and they quickly found the part for me.
Cost: $125 for Bosch Spark Plug Cables
$35 for cap and rotor
$77 for oil breather hose thingy..lol.
all prices in CDN.
I had two mechanics(indies) tell me my engine was shot and no one noticed the problems of one cylinder not working and claimed head gasket as reason for oil smell entering through vents. The car runs like brand new right now and the smell is gone.
p.s. The only reason I did such a massive write up is to show people that you should always take a look your self before listening to a mechanic, i thought I was in for an engine overhaul.
It's rather unfair to blame a forum for not being able to fix your car by remote control, and really it sounds like the people who don't know very much are the mechanics you consulted---and THEY had the car in front of them.
Plenty of people get very good answers here...sorry you didn't.