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Comments
If you have the 2.0T, you should use the better synthetic oils that conform to VW's newer 503.01 specification. These oils provide superior protection for turbocharged engines. The following oils on this list available in the U.S. include:
1) Castrol Syntec 0W-30 European Formula (must say Made in Germany on bottle) - which you can find at the Auto Zone.
2) Mobil 1 0W-40 European formula - found at most auto stores.
If you have the 5-cylinder, then the motor oils conforming to VWs 502.00 spec (the list that jeffyscott e-mailed you) will suffice. The factory fill for this engine is Castrol Syntec 5W-40.
...just curious because I found another list which says it is "engine oils which currently meet Volkswagen Oil Quality Standard VW 502 00, VW 505 01 and VW 504 00/507 00." But no mention of a 503.01, it's from an October 2007 VW TSB.
Talked to the service manager and he said if I bring in the oil and filter, they will only charge me $15.00 to change the oil and dispose of the old stuff.
jesseakers2005@hotmail.com
HELP...
:sick: :sick: :sick:
If the fluid is low, you may add less than a cup of DISTILLED water. If it needs more fluid than that, then you need to add G12 antifreeze.
It is obvious there must be a reason... the bigger question may be *why*?.
Off the top of my head, I can think of 20 reasons *why*.
Top 3 may be;
1) Your driving style
2) Dragging brakes
3) MAF sensor
You did not mention what engine you have, I can surmise you have the 1.8 turbo because it is the only engine which VW offers has individual coils AND can acheive 36MPG. you really need to keep your throttle foot out of the turbocharger to get good MPG. Sure, it it fun to kick in the turbocharger... but you pay the price in poor MPG. Also the 1.8T MUST be fed with hi-test gasoline. Regular gasoline will eventually destroy the engine. I am sure you read that in the owners-manual too.
Thanks.
The repairs are (each item repaired on a different visit) as follows: 1)Tire Serviced. 2) Wheel(s) Replaced. 3) Rear Brake Pads Replaced. 4) Rear Brake Pads Replaced. 5) Two Wheels Alligned. 6) Suspension Serviced. 7) Brakes Serviced. The owner sold after 3 years 7 mos. No Accident reported.
The 2nd owner's record does not contain any repairs.
What could have caused those repairs? Is that quite normal, or is the car a lemon?
I'd appreciate any advice please..
The waterpump is installed into the engine where it is driven by the timingBelt. To replace it, it is most economical to also replace timingBelt, pullies, tensioner and all other moving components in there at the same time. With 71K miles, you are getting close to the time to replace all that stuff anyway.
Take care over there. Best wishes from a Vietnam vet.
Gates recommends replacing timing belt at 60K mi.
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2256&location_id=3487
VW says "check" it every 40K mi, my understanding is in order to check it you have to do most of the labor needed to replace it anyway.
VW maintenance schedule
Perhaps if you tell us what your GOAL is... then we could recommend a better way to spend your hard-earned cash on your VW. Are looking for power, MPG, sound, handling, braking, longevety.... other?
To check the xmission fluid, you are supposed to use a computer hook-up under the dash to determine fluid temparture and some other steps to check the level.
In any case, one should follow the owners-manual reguarding xmission and brake-fluid replacement at proper intervals....lest there may be expensive repair bills.
P1176 O2 Correctionbehind Catalyst, B1 Limit Attained
P1297 Connection turbocharger - throttle valve pressure hose
P1103 O2 Sensor Heating Circ., Bank1-Sensor1 Output too low
P1171 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Range/Performance
P1542 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Range/Performance
P1545 Throttle Pos.Contr Malfunction
P1568 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. mechanical Malfunction
P1602 Power Supply (B+) Terminal 30 Low Voltage
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Low Input
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0507 Idle Control System Higher than Expected
I would like to fix this myself but I would like to have a game plan. I am noticing a lot of O2 sensor things, throttle control or position(maybe the sensor), maybe the mass air flow sensor. Is there one thing I should try first? Is there one thing that would set all the others off?
Any help is greatly appreciated....Thanks guys
I have a 96 Jetta, and I notice from time to time that the coolant is lowering, tried the lucas coolant fixer but still seems to be leaking some place...should I try to cure the coolant leak and hope that cures me? or is my problem more in a blocked air or fuel path? would there be any chance that its an ECM getting weak?
Here is a video about the "coolant migration problem".
Thanks, Ken
I bet it is your coil pack. Replace the coil pack, wires, and the plugs.
Joe
(some engines do away with the wires and just put a coil on each sparkplug)
To specifically answer your question, to get the inside 2 sparkplugs out, use a "wobble socket extension" on your socketwrench plugged into your sparkplug socket.
NOTES:
*) Do NOT pull on the sparkplug wires to remove them from the sparkplugs.
*) Use compressed-air or other means to clean around sparkplugs BEFORE you remove them.(You do not want crud to fall into the engine.)
*) Use ONLY the proper Bosch sparkplugs in the 2.0 engine (no equivalants)
*) Apply light coating of antiseaze to the new sparkplug threads
*) Make certain the new sparkplugs are HAND threaded to the seat before snugging. (To eliminate cross-threading )
jeremiah
My VW Jetta GLS (automatic) is giving me a new issue today. It started hesitating while the "Check Engine" light blinked continuously. As I was driving the car it would hesitate and would have a hard time accelerating and then at times it felt like it would finally shift into gear and would start driving normally again only to once again continue with the same pattern of hesitating, etc. When I would stop at a light it kept vibrating and hesitating. Do you all have any idea what issue I may be having?
It is tough to get your hand under the intake manifold to hand start # 2 and #3 plugs. A piece of fuel line type rubber hose with 5/16" or 3/8" ID where it is pressed onto plugs is a good way to mimick hand starting. VW's 4 cyllinder is the first 4 cylinder engine I have seen where the intake manifold covers the plugs. Normally, this is the case with V-6 engines.
bpeebles, you do have a lot of good comments and suggestions and we appreciate them. Keep up the good work.
Joe
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1835863
Search for discussion on your engine. 1.8T, VR6, etc.
I beleive the 1.8T and VR6 have INDIVIDUAL COILS mounted on each sparkplug while the 2.0 has a single coil.
Any class-action lawyers out there need a class rep?
Once you have the problem resolved... you need to change your usage-habits with the AC to PREVENT it from ever coming back.