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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • waterstreet020waterstreet020 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for the advice. We use the A/C only occasionally. The car has 39000 miles.
    Do you have any suggestions how to clean the evaporator coil?

    Tnx!
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    Please advise after how many miles should we change the transmission fluid and fuel filter as this is not mentioned in the owner's maintenance schedule.
  • lentelocolenteloco Member Posts: 5
    CAN I CHANGE MY DRUM BRAKES TO DISK BRAKES? WHERE CAN I GET A CONVERSION KIT? AND FINAL QUESTION IS IT WORTH IT? JUST CHANGE MASTER CYLINDER AND DRUMS LOOK PRETTY WORN EVERYONE TELLS ME DRUMS ARE NOT GOOD, SO I WANT TO CHANGE TO DISK.
  • geo6geo6 Member Posts: 3
    My 2002 Jetta TDI quit running. This car has only 40k miles. I am told by VW that my warranty was 5 years or 50k miles. They had to replace the Injection pump for a cost of $2,800. I love the car but not the company. Has anyone had any dealings with VW on an issue like this. Is there anyone I might be able to contact for some help in retrieving some of my capital back ? I can't believe that an injection pump won't last for more than 40k miles.
  • geo6geo6 Member Posts: 3
    My 2002 Jetta TDI quit running. This car has only 40k miles. I am told by VW that my warrenty was 5 years or 50k miles. They had to replace the Injection pump for a cost of $2,800. I love the car but not the company. Has anyone had any dealings with VW on an issue like this. Is there anyone I might be able to contact for some help in retreiving some of my capital back ? I can't beleive that an injection pump won't last for more than 40k miles.
  • joshjetta1joshjetta1 Member Posts: 3
    My 94 Jetta requires a little effort to push the shifter into first, and sometimes when I shift moderately quick into 2nd, I hear a thud. Is this the synchronizer? When I shift into 2nd slowly and ease the clutch out, it shifts nice and smooth. Does anybody know what this is? Is it just me? Had the car for only two weeks now- Help please. Thank you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's a lot of money for that repair. My books list the pump at $1120 and labor at 3.5 hours, so even at $125/hour and including 8% sales tax I get a total of around $1700.

    You might want to sit down with the service department and ask for a complete review of the bill and all charges. By asking careful questions you might knock this bill down.

    It's a very unlucky break for you, but if you're out of warranty you're out of warranty. You could certainly call or write VW and ask for some kind of assistance. Call their "zone office" which the dealer can give you contact info for.

    I know it's a pain becoming your own advocate and spending all this time, but you could end up making $100 an hour doing this work, so it's worth a shot.

    As for the injection pump, it is susceptible to damage and is a very complex little gadget. You have every right to be disappointed however. Had the car just sat for ten years, I'd say, well sure, okay, but you've been using it regularly. It shouldn't have failed IMO and VW should at least help you out by either (or both) kicking in some cash and reviewing the dealer's bill. Something about the dealer's bill (as you've presented it) is troubling, unless there are other things on there you didn't mention.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Replacing the InjectionPump means tearing into the timing-belt area. It would be ludricrus to NOT replace the TB, pullies, waterpump, thermostat, tensionor, seals (crank and cam) and all other moving parts while in there.

    Thus one should add the price of the IP to the cost of a TB replacement. Even then, the cost should not be over $2500.

    Also, some shops may find other moving parts that are worn. (serpentine tensioner/pully, sprag-clutch on alternator pully...etc.)

    It is a losing propasiton to try to save a buck by NOT replacing somthing while in there. For example.... a failed pully can cause the TimingBelt to slip and a piston can crash into valves.... and you think an InjectionPump is expensive??

    This is another GREAT opertunity for me to repeat.... allways-ALWAYS add diesel-fuel additive when you fill the tank. Not only will you get 3-5MPG increase, but it also lubricates the expensive IP and runs quieter. Contrary to what gasoline-additives do.... DIESEL additives truly imporve the crappy fuel we have here in NorthAmerica.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Were this an 80,000 mile engine I couldn't agree with you more, but I don't think, as the owner of a 40K car, I would quite do ALL the things you suggest. I'm sure you're right, there are things on that bill that were done besides the pump. I guess my question is did they just run away with a blank check here.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    That is not really "strange"... you SHOULD be shifting smoothly to allow the synchronizers to do their job between gears. You can think if it as a 'pause' or 'bump' between gears as you feel the synchros. line up the spinning metal components within the xmission.

    I assume you are ALWAYS pushing the clutch pedal to the floor?
    You may want to also verify that the clutch is fully disenguaging.

    If the clutch *is* fully disenguaging... then what you describe sure sounds like the wrong xmission fluid may be in there. A fluid which is too slippery will essentually disable the synchros. from doing their job. The synchros. need a little 'friction' so they can equalize the spinning metal components against each other.

    (the 'pause' between gears will be too long and if you push harder to get the synchros. to do their thing.... the gears end up slamming into each other.)

    You might want to consider changing the xmission fluid.. USE ONLY THE SPECIFIED VW FLUID! A lot of folks have experimented with xmission-fluids in a VW and the concensus is that VW has done their homework. Nothing (except mabie RedLine MTL) can match the performance of the VW-specified fluid.
  • joshjetta1joshjetta1 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks I appreciate your help.
  • jimsbizjimsbiz Member Posts: 1
    Need help, I had take my distributor cap off to check , that was the easy part. Trying to put back on the metal clip holder in the back broke, there is no even way to hold down the distributor cap.
    Can these clips be replaced? Where can I get them?
    Or do I have to look for a whole new distributor?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Call a VW dealership... if no luck , then a scrapyard may have a wrecked VW with some parts on it.

    For now.... any way to hold down the cap will work. Perhaps a bungie-chord wrapped around the cap and under the distributor may work.
  • joshjetta1joshjetta1 Member Posts: 3
    The cluster on my Jetta 2.0 manual does not function. The speedometer, tach, fuel and temp gauge's needles just rest on the pins. The only thing that works is the clock on the tach (??). Even the odometer stopped.
    The VW dealer wants 500 for a new cluster and install. However, there are several used clusters online (thesamba.com, vanagon.com, ebay), only I do not know if I have to match part numbers or if they are universal from 93-99. Has anybody went through this before?
    I found some reverse style white faced gauges that would match the head unit I want to install (reverse style means the numbers light up, not the whole face). A local speed and sound shop told me they would install that cluster with the new gauges for 75-100 dollars. Is this something that a certified VW mechanic or the dealer needs to fix? Is there something that needs reset, or is it a simple install that the speed shop can do?
    Also, if anybody out there would happen to know the part number for my cluster so I could order one from the net, that would be great. (94 Jetta 2.0L GL manual).
    What would you guys do? Any help is appreciated, I hear this is a common problem among the VWs.
    It definitely helps to know how fast you are going...

    Thank You
  • fansofanso Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I got my Jetta one year ago.

    6 months ago, I had the first service (5k miles) done, when the actually mileage was 3K.
    Now it's 12 months, and I accumulated mileage to just above 5000 miles....
    (my home is really close to my office..)

    Shall I have the second service (for 10K miles) done now? or shall I wait?

    Also, anybody knows the relationship between scheduled service and warranty? If I don't do the second service now but will the mileage reaches 10K, will there be any issue on "void warranty"?

    Your reply is appreciated :) :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    SInce you apparently drive very little.... you may need to change your oil based on the TIME schedule instead of the MILAGE schedule.

    Short-driving cycles which do not allow the engine to get hot long enough allows the condensation to build up and migrate to the bottom of the crankcase. The crankcase of your engine is building up acidic water droplets in it. That is the MAIN REASON oil is changed...to get rid of the acidic build-up.

    Oil does not stop being slippery... that would be like saying water can stop being wet.

    You should be changing your oil/filter at least every 6 months reguardless of milage. It is cheap insurance against servere engine problems later.

    In reguards to your question about the "warantee".... lets be clear about this - the "warantee" is not an "all-or-nothing" affair. If somone does not change their oil... the unlimited-milage warantee on the body is not affected. Nor is the warantee on the rest of the vehicle.

    The Federal government has you protected...Read the Magnusson-Moss Act (which also came with your new car)
  • lordexarkunlordexarkun Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2004 jetta and it my sound stupid but where do i cheak the tranny fluid? and where do i fill the transmission fluid? thers nothing in the owners manual. thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The xmission is sealed. Having a "dipstick" allows dirt to enter and contaminate the system. Engineers from many automakers have discovered it is better to seal the xmission which improves service-life.

    The only way to "check" the automatic xmission fluid is with a computer connected to the plug under the dash. Thusly, you can determine the temperature of the fluid and then follow a procedure to check the level.

    It is best to leave things alone and just follow the maintenance schedule reguarding fluid-changes. It is VERY important that you use ONLY the fluids specified by VW. This holds true for engine-oil, antifreeze, xmission, powersteering, brake.... etc. Folks who have "experimented" with other fluids found that the German engineers did their homework in reguards to fluid-specifications.
  • jettatrouble1jettatrouble1 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2002 Jetta and have recently had some issues with the ignition coil and stalling related issues due to wet weather. Took the car into the shop and was it was "confirmed" by the mechanic that the coil in fact needed to be fixed. Not wanting to drop $800, I followed the tips on here and sealed the coil, replaced the wires and plugs and no longer have the skipping issues. However, my check engine light has not gone off and my car recently failed inspection. Frustrating.

    Anyone have a similar experience and any ideas to what is causing the engine light to remain on? O2 sensor? Computer leads need to be cleaned? I'd rather not bring the car back in to the mechanic for a diagnostic since he previously charged me $85 (and suggesting the coil be replaced).

    FYI - car has 150K miles - catalytic onverter was replaced at 80K.

    Thanks for any suggestions.
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    Is the manual transmission's fluid is also sealed same as auto? Do we need to change it as service manual has not mentioned.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    On some cars, removing the positive battery post for 5-10 minutes resets the check engine light. I don't know if that is the case with VW but you can try.

    If you do have another issue that makes the light to come beside your ignition coil, the light will come on again. So this is just a quick fix for the light to go away.

    Joe
  • jettatrouble1jettatrouble1 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for th reply.

    Actually, I was able to get the c/e light to go off (a friend was able to reset the light . . . I drove it for about 100 miles and brought it back and it still failed . . . eventually the light came back on) but the car was still failing the emissions test. The light is not flashing like before . . . and hasn't flashed since I sealed the ignition coil and changed the plugs.

    I don't have the radio code so I will lose my radio if I pull the cables (not a big issue if I thought that was it but I'm not certain that will solve the issue).

    This is really frustrating!!!
  • peeples79peeples79 Member Posts: 1
    The check engine light came on in my 2004 volks wagon jetta. I was advised I would need scheduled maintenance at 50,000 miles, Im currently a little over 51,000 miles. Could the light coming on be a reminder the maintenance is needed? I have noticed the car is slightly slugish.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    WHOOOAAA>... is your CEL "ON" or "FLASHING"? These are 2 very different conditions.

    "ON" means a simple failure which is OK to keep driving...but should be looked at soon.

    "FLASHING" means there is a SERIOUS problem which can cause harm and destruction to your automobile if you continue to drive it. (Like raw fuel entering the catalytic-converter which can burn it to a crisp.)

    To answer your question (which has been asked 100s of times before on these forums) To actually know why the CEL is on, you need to hook up a computer to the connector under the dashboard. Either locate someone with a VAGCOM, pay somone, or go to an autoparts store (AUTOZONE) who will get the code for you for free.

    Once you know the code... come back here and tell us what it is. At that point, we may be in a better position to help you.
  • jettatrouble1jettatrouble1 Member Posts: 8
    It's simply on . . . no flashing.

    I took it to Autozone tonight and got the following:

    Troublshooting PO420

    The PCM has determined that the catalyst system efficiency for bank 1 is below threshold for the current engine operating conditions (Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder 1, while bank 2 identifies the cylinder on the opposite bank.

    Definition
    Catalyst efficiency low bank 1
    Explanation
    The oxygen sensors monitor teh catalytic converters ability to store oxygen.

    Probable causes
    1 Catalytic converter defective (failure possibly due to 2, 3 or 4)
    2. Engine misfire or running condition
    3 Large vacuumleak
    4 Engine oil leakage into exhaust valve guide seals, piston rings

    None of the above sound good!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Nos 3 and 4 not likely:

    If No. 3, your engine would run very rough at idle

    If No. 4, you'd get a cloud of blue smoke when you start up in the morning, and possibly blue smoke when you let off the gas at high speed. Notice either of those symptoms?

    A misfire would definitely make your catalytic converter unhappy.

    Visiting Host
  • jettatrouble1jettatrouble1 Member Posts: 8
    The car is not idling roughly nor is there any evidence of blue smoke when I start it up. I'll pay attention tomorrow morning. Seems to be pointing to an engine misfire.

    Any recommendations? Replace the plugs? Wires? (although I did just replace each . . . ).

    Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    bad coil? Misfires can be due to a lot of things. I'm just guessing.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Dont forget that #1 can be CAUSED by #2,3 or 4.

    It is possible that perminant damage to the Cat has happened BEFORE you replaced/fixed the wires/plugs/coil. Was the CEL flashing at any time (and the car driven)?

    Also, the O2 sensors themselves may be sending inaccurate information to the computer.

    It sounds to me like your next logical item (least expensive) to replace is the ignition coil.
  • ganndonganndon Member Posts: 2
    So i send the girlfried to get a pack of smokes. She makes it 1/2 mile down the road, the car stalls out.

    I go through the checks and notice im getting no fire when i remove the spark plug.

    I notice when she turns over the card, the rotor isnt turning. I checked to make sure the rotor isnt sheared and its not.

    My question is after a 2 hour search online, is how do i remove the old distributor?

    Is there anything i need to watch for when replacing this? Do i have to be in top dead center? I would really love to find a PDF walkthrough but any info is appreciated as its our only car at the present and its Sat afternoon, and cant afford to be missing work.

    Any and all help is appreciated.
  • ganndonganndon Member Posts: 2
    Actually, my timing belt lost a bunch of teeth, so it must be that ill take any suggestions on timing belt replacement :)

    Im fairly compatible so good luck to me /cry
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Well, it's an interference engine, so you may have much bigger problems.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    So sorry for the recient demise of your 1996 VW 8-(
    As someone above mentioned, a busted timing belt can mean piston crashing into valves and serious engine damage. Perhaps you are lucky.

    Just curious ...
    Do you know when the Timing Belt was last changed?
    What is the recommend TB change interval for your 1996 2.0L

    I tried looking up on www.vw.com but their data only goes back to 1999 2.0L which shows a 40,000 mile TB check interval.
  • ashorthornashorthorn Member Posts: 1
    I have an '02 Jetta 2.0GL with automatic trans. and 100k mi. My check engine light came on and went off a couple times before getting checked. Once I did, the shop said I had a faulty catalytic converter. I'm not in any position to be spending money without necessity and the only issue I've had with the car is some hard shifting (which I wouldn't think has anything to do with the catalytic converter). Can I just blow off the "faulty catalytic converter" diagnosis and keep driving or am I going to do more damage or worse yet, end up on the side of the road???
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I think Gates recommends 60K mi for changing timing belt on a '96.
  • kpjetta01kpjetta01 Member Posts: 1
    My '01 GLS 2.0L Jetta failed inspection due to emissions. The diagnostic codes pointed to the bank 1 sensor 1 o2 sensor. I replaced my o2 sensor, then had the codes cleared. About 200 miles later my check engine light came back on.

    The codes I am getting are P0130 (O2 sensor Circ., Bank1-Sensor1 Malfunction sporadic) and P1103 (O2 sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-sensor1 performance too low sporadic). I have a friend at the VW dealership who sold me the sensor. He wasn't quite sure what to tell me. He is gonna check for software updates then get back to me I guess.

    The Car runs fine. It had some "knocking" in the exhaust for a while until I replaced the o2 sensor. Now the knocking is minimal if at all. I really need to get his fixed so I can pass inspection. Does anybody have any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You need a test tool like VAG1526 multimeter or VAG1715 multimeter to check for the proper values from the sensors, and also to test the plug-in connectors and wiring for shorts or excessive resistance.

    Also, if you have an exhaust leak between the catalytic and the cylinder head, that's going to throw everything off as well.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    That does not surprise me at all... A sensor which is flagging a problem DOES NOT mean that the sensor is the problem!!! The sensors are just your cars "messengers". Why shoot messenger because you do not like the message?

    The only folks that replace a sensor just because it is flagging a problem are 1) Paid mechanics trying to make a buck and 2) Shadetree mechanics that dont know any better.

    I am concerned that your O2 sensor HEATER circuit is throwing an error. (not the O2 sensor itself) You can use an ohmmeter to isolate that issue within a couple minutes.

    I agree with the last appender. You need to hook up to a laptop computer and capture some readings while you are driving. This is what a knowledageable repair person would do BEFORE blindly replacing stuff.

    As I have said MANY times before... VagCom is better than the VW shop software. (In the right hands.)
  • microtcpipmicrotcpip Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for reading my post! I have this'91 Jetta with no belts on it. I need to install new belts... Would anyone have a diagram so I could follow it? Your help is greatly appreicaited,

    Steven
  • microtcpipmicrotcpip Member Posts: 2
    Hello there,

    I am trying to understand why my post was move to an existing post regarding an OS2 sensor.... I am trying to get help in replacing my drive belts..... Could yo help me understand?

    Thanks
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hi Steven, welcome!

    This is a general discussion for maintenance and repair conversation involving the Jetta, that's why it's the best place for your question. By placing your post in an existing discussion, it is more likely it will be seen by the people who participate here.

    Hope this helps!
  • robin52228robin52228 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2006 TDI 1.9 L Diesel w/about 88,000 mi. It recently starting shuttering when excellerating. This is a great problem when I want to pass another vehicle especially. There is loss of excelleration and is very slow to gain speed.This usually happens when it changes from 4th to 5th gear and sometimes just holds at 4th gear no matter how much gas I give it. It stills changes gears smoothly. Could this be a bad tank of diesel gas? The quick torque and excelleration is one of the things I've enjoyed most and have come to rely on in my many miles of driving. I really hope this isn't a transmission problem!! I do not see anything in my manual about the transmission.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    With any diesel the purity of the fuel is of utmost importance. Do you use fuel conditioner and biocide? Also anytime you have a performance issue with a diesel, it's a great idea to change out the fuel filter (s).

    Diesel fuel tanks can accumulate crude and even algae (hence the biocide). You should be adding conditioner every couple tankfuls. Redline makes a good product, as does BGK.

    If filters and conditioner don't work, you'd have to suspect dirty injectors, which may need a strong dose of professional grade injector cleaner, like you get from a truck stop--not the whimpy stuff at Wal Mart.

    Visiting Host
  • robin52228robin52228 Member Posts: 11
    Thanx so much! That gives me some direction. My manual never mentioned the conditioner nor boicide nor did my dealership. Thanx!! ;)
  • robin52228robin52228 Member Posts: 11
    What kind of oil should be used in my vehicle? I know it's synthetic oil but is there any I can buy w/o going to the dealership? How often should I really have the oil changed? What fuel filters do I have and how often should I change those? I just want to be more knowledgeable as I no longer trust my dealership. They over charge for everything and no one else will work on VW's anymore! I recently had to pay 127.00 for windsheild wipers!! outrageous!! :confuse:
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Oil that meets VW 507.00 specifications. The best is to verify this with your owner's manual. This (VW 507.00) specification is the latest and is"backward" compatible. The range for the OCI is between 10,000 to 30,000 miles.

    Unless you have triangulated information about your VW dealer ship and it DOES check out with multiple sources (TDI specific), stay away from the dealership.

    You may wish to check on www.tdiclub.com for the local trustworthy parts vendor/ mechanics. I would be remiss if I didn't say it that is one of the good/bad things about VW TDI's. I am sure other OEM's that bring TDI's on line will have similar issues.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might also look at Edmunds info on maintenance scheduling for your TDI:

    VW Maintenance Schedule

    The fuel filter on your diesel is a somewhat elaborate affair. You should have been draining the water separator every 5,000 miles and replacing the filter....oh...I'd say every 20,000 miles to be conservative or every 30,000 miles on the outside.

    If you don't have an owner's manual, you should order one from the dealer and read it cover to cover. There's a lot of good info in there.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Here is the OFFICIAL LIST from VW.

    Here is another link which explains your pumpe-duse engine oil.

    Personally, I use the German-made Pentosin oil in my TDI. Pentosin is the factory-fill oil for VW and I see no need to not use an engine-oil that designd to work in TDIs

    I beleive your 2006 TDI has the pumpe-duse engine which calls for VW505.01 specification (VW allows for the new spec vw506.01 and 507.00 that engine but that oil is harder to find.)

    VW505.00 MUST NOT be used in pumpe-duse engines!! (that decimal-point makes a HUGE difference in the oil-formulation)

    In fact, VW added the ".01" to the specification especially for the pumpe-duse engines.

    BEWARE: Using the wrong oil in your pumpe-duse engine has been shown to destroy the camshaft. This is beacause the camshaft in that engine also drives the fuel-injection pulses. To fit int the extra cam-lobes, the designers had to make the cams skinnier than in other engines... thus the cams get MUCH higher loading and need the special oil.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Another reason to stay away from the dealer and/or make sure either you know for sure, or do it yourself in putting the correct specified and SPECIFIC oils. Dealers ROUTINELY put the incorrect oil in TDI's!!??

    Again, start with your SPECIFIC VW owners manual for the VW specifications. If you become remotely interested (i.e.,like bpeebles and I, etc) , , there are a few ongoing discussions/debates as to what is the best brew given the parameters you find yourself operating with and in. So for example, while I know and have faith the latest VW 507.00 specifications will work in my 03 TDI (non PD), I still use Delvac 5w40/Mobil One Truck & Suv 5w40.
  • seabeedadseabeedad Member Posts: 1
    1993 Jetta 2.0L not starting (FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!!)
    I love my Jetta and so far I had not had many problems with it. One day it just would not start so I tried the old lock and unlock the door trick (the alarm on some of the VW’s have an anti theft device that does not permit it to be started when tripped). That did not work so I did the spark test; no spark was coming from the coil, checked the distributer, nothing wrong still did not start looked for a problem in the charging system every thing was ok. Man this thing had me stumped big time! Thinking no spark, new coil, new distributor, and check on the charging side. Still no spark what was I doing wrong? It had to be something simple, it just had to be! Systematical look at things starting system has only a few components to include the starter, solenoid, battery, switch, distributer, a couple switches, and coil. The only thing not checked was the ignition switch in the column, why not so then took the ignition switch out of the steering column and sure enough it was worn, a quick run to the parts store and a little tooling and I was back up and running!!!!! Who would have thought to look there? I was stumped because the engine was turning over when I turned the key. The no spark was the contact in the column being bad.
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