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After I picked up the car, two weeks later, it acted up again. The mechanic that worked on it, came to my house and did all his tests and determined it was the starter. I replaced the started myself, $180 new with lifetime warranty from Napa. The car has been fine since then.
Electrical problems are tough to diagnose and I am not worked up about spending $270 and not them finding the problem the first time.
Joe
Re:My VW Jetta GLS (automatic) is giving me a new issue today. It started hesitating while the "Check Engine" light blinked continuously. As I was driving the car it would hesitate and would have a hard time accelerating and then at times it felt like it would finally shift into gear and would start driving normally again only to once again continue with the same pattern of hesitating, etc. When I would stop at a light it kept vibrating and hesitating. Do you all have any idea what issue I may be having?
From your description of "vibrating and hesitating"...that sure sounds like one of the cylinders is not firing. A misfiring cylinder could send unburned fuel into the exhaust system.
A CEL which is just "ON" is considerd OK to drive while a vehicle with a BLINKING CEL should not be driven.
What exactly did you mean your spark plugs were "burned"? What color were the tips? Brown and crusty? Black? Gray ash-like? Were they all the same condition?
BOTH of my daughters 2001 VWs had their MAF replaced for free under this "extended warantee".
Since I have a VagCom , I was able to diagnose their bad MAF. (running lean and/or rich)
One way to help diagnose a bad MAF is to disconnect the electrical wire and drive the car. If it runs better, the MAF is definatly bad.
A "burnt" sparkplug would be bright white on the tip because everything except the ceramic has burned off of it.
A competnet mechanic can "read" sparkplugs and determine a lot about the condition of an engine. (fuel mixture, rings, valvestem seals, ignintion system, fuel grade...etc)
Too bad there are not many COMPETENT mechanics around anymore.... many of them just hook computer to car and have little clue how to REALLY diagnose a problem. Also, many of them are paid based on HOW MANY PARTS THEY SELL and not by HOW MANY CARS THEY FIX.
I have always wanted mechanics to be paid based on FIXING a problem... (not on TRYING to fix it) 8-)
With that said - If all of your sparkplugs look about the same condition, this DOES NOT point to an ignition nor a mechanical problem and instead points to somthing IN COMMON to all of the cylinders. (MAF sensor, O2 sensor...etc.)
Which one?....and how could you tell?....is there a separate electric wire for both of them?
And What do you mean, "If it runs better..."? Because the car runs fine....it's smooth and shifts consistently for the most part...but the Auto Parts Store Computer Reading was giving the Too Lean/Fuel Injector problem reading.....so how would I do that?.....would I run it without the sensor and see if the Auto Parts store Computer give the All systems Pass Reading (or whatever the technical term for all systems pass)?....Would the computer show the MAF sensor as "CANNOT BE READ" if I disconnect it?....Let me know....thanks....I seriously think this might be the problem.
So what i'm saying is that a code that says something like "misfire" or "bad injector" could be caused by many things, and the idea is not to replace all those things at once and then say "see, I solved it" (at the owner's great expense).
But most of us are happier paying for new parts to be installed, than we are paying diagnostic charges, as in:
it would have been $106 just for a further examination and possible dianosis. I just wasn't sure I was up for that
I'm certainly not going to pay for a wrong diagnosis. I can do that myself :P
The whole story is important here probably. Head needed rebuilding, has new camshaft, timing belt, tensioners waterpump since it was all open. I also had the turbo actuator valve replaced (the bladder gizmo behind the engine). Right after that the turbo worked great, car ran like a dream for about a weak. I then noticed when the turbo would spool when at high RPMs that it would skip and then plop into limp mode. It has gotten progressively worse so that now it will drop off almost from the first acceleration in first gear. It will usually fix when the key is cycled.
when I run the codes I get P0101 an P1550 (regular handheld jobby), and under the the Vag-Com there are also codes for the rear ABS sensors.
So far to fix this issue I have replaced the Turbo Solenoid (up by the windshield with the hoses going to it), I have replaced the MAF....I have taken apart the hoses going to the air filter (all clear). I have visually inspected the vacuum hoses and though a little frayed don't see any breaks. The air filter is relatively new.
The connector plug (that plugs into the MAF) is a replacement plug so it leads me to believe someone looked at replacing that before I came onto the scene. I am thinking I should check to make sure that is wired well...but what else should I try. Any advice, happen to anyone else? I am reaching the end of my wits thinking about it....need some things to check so I feel like I am sniffing out the problem....give me your best shot!
Oh something else you should know. The engine light doesn't work it was somehow disconnected or blown, I wager disconnected so they could sell the car.
First of all, that thing is called the VNT actuator.
The turbocharger is a VNT (Variable Nozzle Turbocharger) and the adjustment on the 'shaft' of the VNT actuator is tuned at the factory. Altering it can have devastating effects on your engine. (like overboost!)
the code P1550 you are getting is pointing directly at that as the problem ( http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/17958/P1550/005456 )
Essentually, code P1550 is telling you that the computer senses a problem with the VNT actuator or its control piping. Also check your N75 valve.
Here is a website that has excellent photos of the inner-workings of your VNT... pay close attention to the very last moving photo which shows how the VNT vanes move.
prior owner lost the master key and I had one made (not by VW) the barrel on the drivers door is broken but still cant silence the alarm even when actuating the door lock with a screwdriver!!
and the key will not actuate the passenger side door! it DOES operate the ignition but with the alarm engaged, the ignition is locked out -- any clues?? or will a new master key being made fix this? thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Joe
Do you know the specs the VNT actuator should be set at for a 1999.5 TDI (new body style I think thats called MK4)?
I had to replace it (it was rusted out and didn't move at all from the previous owner).
Thanks for your efforts
Jason
Any thoughts or suggestions or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated, a door seal possibly?? I lost my job about 8 months ago so I'd like to avoid a giant repair bill if possible (or a giant bill just to look at it and tell me its nothing).
I have even considerd driving from Vermont to see Herm for a TimingBelt change.
You may consider at least calling and chatting with him about your TDI problems.
You can find Herm and other TDI mechanics in this list
spray along the front cowling, door seal and window for a few min to see if there is a sign of where the leak is coming from
also just a thought -- have you noticed if the water is sweet smelling ???? this is a sign of coolant leakage -- just a thought and hope this helps a tad!
Joe
Is there any special product or oil to use? I have been using 5-30W name brand oil.
Thanks,
Joe
You might want to have a cylinder leakdown test done to see what the problem is. If it's valve guides you may wish to consider getting that fixed. At a quart every 700 miles, you are starting to put stress on your catalytic converter.
There's nothing in a can that cuts oil burning for more than ten minutes. You can gunk it up in there but that does more harm than good. If you are in a mild climate you can switch to a heavier oil, sure, like a 10W-40 or 20W-50, and see if that matters. I kinda doubt it but you never know. Or you could even run a straight weight oil if you can find one that meets your engine's specifications. But that could be hell in winter.
Anyway, get a cylinder leakdown test done and then at least you can end the speculation about where exactly the problem is, in the engine.
Anywho, I'm trying to find a forum with people that actually owns the MKIV(99.5-2005) Jetta and actually chime in before a year passes.
Does anyone know which models have or should have the rear cupholders? They are located under the rear coin holder thing. That small rectangular square is similar to the fronts and when pushed, a retractable cup holder comes out.
While I'm at it, does anyone know if its available for purchase?
Thanks in Advance
-Cj
If I were looking for that kind of item, I would visit several scrapyards and poke around the old VWs.... I often find this kind of stuff and they are GLAD to get $5 for it. (because there is not a big market for it)
Unfortunately, the armrest in that GLS I looked at needed to be fixed/replaced and the dealership pledged to fix it, among other minor things, before the car is purchased. Maybe he'll get the one with the rear cupholder.
The minor issues that car has/had is bubbling tinted windows (replaced), sunroof sunshade appeared to have ketchup on it that was tried to get cleaned but used some cleaning agent that also didn't work. He was replacing it on my last visit. Yes the Dealer does his own repairs on the cars he sells which is favorable and unfavorable. My aunt bought an Altima from them and has had ZERO problems, but this is a VW we're dealing with here... He is selling the 2001 Jetta GLS 2.0 w/ Leather package, heated seats, sunroof, &~113k miles for a negotiable $6,000. Ok with me.
My biggest drawbacks with the Jetta is ALL THOSE DARNED CHANGES!! I just know I want the 6airbags(2 Front, 2 Seat Side, 2 Side Curtains) the 2001 model brought. I'd like the 1.8T but don't want to deal with sludge problems. I like the VR6, but only 2002 and newer when the MPG changed from 17/23 to 19/28 but those are too $$$. I'd like the 5MT but I live in an area with high traffic so its discouraging...
Do your daughters still have the Beetle and Golf (I was reading some posts from 2002) and whats your opinion on them?
-Cj
good luck
Better to use a part from VW parts dept. Since after market ones like from Autozone (where I work) seem to not be up to specs to handle the load a VW puts on the part.
prior owner lost the master key and I had one made (not by VW) the barrel on the drivers door is broken but still cant silence the alarm even when actuating the door lock with a screwdriver!!
and the key will not actuate the passenger side door! it DOES operate the ignition but with the alarm engaged, the ignition is locked out -- any clues?? or will a new master key being made fix this? thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Joe
Did you get the new master key?
This is the first thing you should do so you have the right part.
After that you should make sure you have the code for the radio to reset the alarm.
Get it from the dealer and pay a hefty price.
Otherwise put an after market radio in, but watch the extra wire that may be there to tell when oil changes need to be made. It might interfere with the OBDII getting codes at a later time. It may ned to be cut and covered.
My one daughter really drives her car hard (the rough roads dont help) and her 2001 Gulf has needed some suspension work (springs and various rubber bushings) Reciently the flexpipe between engine and cat broke at 100,0010 miles. Although the warantee is really for 100,000 miles, the dealership covered all except $23.
The latch on the armrest cover has broken one every single VW we own.... fortunately, replacment latch is about $10 and easy to replace in the driveway.
This past summer with my 2003 Jetta, both front fenders started to rust. VW honored their 12Year/UnlimitedMileage corrosion warantee and replaced both front fenders.
Overall, I know if any of us were looking for another car we would, without question, look for another VW.
good luck
harvey
It is amazing the VW dealer wanted $30 for a gallon of coolant. I bought Mercedes coolant from MB dealer for $18/gal for my E430. I don't know how VW justifies charging $30 for coolant. I ended up buying $9/gal Prestone that you can mix and use for all car brands. I question these car manufacturers coming up with their own coolant and ripping off their customers.
Removing the thermostat housing was a nightmare. The lower bolt has the alternator right in front of it with no room to reach it, it took me hours with tools I had to rig somehthing up to get to it .
I think VW's 4 cylinders are much more complicated to ge to simple maintenance items than some V-6 or V-8 engines. I have never seen intake manifold blocking spark plug access on a four cylider engine before.
Joe
Actually 30 for a gal is not bad given most of the other than dealer vendors sell a gal @ 25 per.
This might not apply to the 2.0 engine, but the oem owners manual on the TDI engine specifies and requires G12. It is truly a lifetime coolant; unless of course, you have (a source of) contamination issues( head gasket leak etc) .
I only replaced a portion of of my G12 (way less than a bottle of 1.5L, as you dilute 70% G12 + 30 % distilled water) when I had the 100k miles interval- TB/WP changed; as the container used for the G12 anti freeze catch proceedure was used for other peoples G12. (didn't want to contaminate mine with others and vice versa) If I had brought my own catch container, I would have reused MY old G12. So basically I made the decision to top it (@ the proper dilution rate).
So if the 2.0 engine oem owners manual specifies G12 it is indeed a HUGE mistake to NOT use it. So if you did use other than the recommended anti freeze you probably have contaminated the existing recommended antifreeze.
As an after thought, the time to question these things is when you do NOT own it.
I don't understand why you would want to risk using the wrong coolant in order to save a lousy $21. I'd don't think I would trust Prestone to know what is safe and best for a VW engine or what is safe to mix with G12.
In addition, if there was no actual need to change the coolant in the first place, how is VW ripping you off? Instead by installing G12 in their new cars, they eliminate the need to pay for routine coolant changes.
I have had ZERO issues with coolant or engines. Are you still insisting on VW coolant? I have issue with them charging $30. What is in it that costs $30/gallon?
VW's plastic water pump impeller breaks whether you have $30 or $9 coolant. I am not cheap but I do have problem with rip off prices.
Joe
Mixing ANYTHING else with HOAT has been known to cause a gell to form and may clog the small passagaways of the cooling system. You are gambling with making the engine into a boat-anchor by saving a few bucks.
BTW: You can get G12 antifreeze from any diecent autoparts store. Do you really think that VW *makes* antifreeze..... I hope not.
I use Pentosin which is the same company that makes the VW-labelled stuff.
You could have installed the BRASS IMPELLER waterpump like I did.
I hope you also replaced the TIMINGBELT, TENSIONOR, and verious pullies on that engine while you had it torn apart.... Otherwise you will be in there again real soon because the TimingBelt is PAST due for a change at that milage.
HERE IS MY ISSUE WITH YOUR COMMENTS
If you had simply followed the VW recommendations and REPLACED the TimingBelt, waterpump, tensioner and pullies at the recommended 80K miles, you would have NEVER EVER had this problem to begin with. It is your own fault that you arrived at this point.
Also - The intake manifold is NOT blocking your access to the sparkplugs. The inner 2 plugs are angled in such a way that you can easilly replace them with a wobbleHead socket extension.
I could go on and discuss why the intake runners on the VW 2.0L engine are the way they are... but you do not seem to be willing to LEARN about VWs and instead want to complain.
HINT: Long intake runners create a wider torque-range by creating a ram-effect into the cylinders. This is one reason that VW engines are sooo easy to drive with a clutch because there is torque available right from idle.
I owned a Honda Civic once... even after 120,000 miles I was still stalling it becasue it had no torque at all unless I spun the engine over 2000 RPM. It was NOT very driver-friendly in that reguard. Also, the oil-filter was IMPOSSIBLE to access unless the car was on a hydrolic lift.
Conversly, VWs have always put the oil-filter right in the front where they are easy to access. I can change the oil in about 15 minutes by just opening the hood and sucking out the oil with oil-sucker.
That is fine, but in the case of the VW oem badged oil filter/coolant why would you rather NOT use it or Mann or Mahle? We have already mentioned the LIFETIME G12 made by Pentosin, etc, vs change every (whatever) mileage) for the Prestone. OEM Bosch, Mann or Mahle made oil filters are actually specified for 30,000 miles oil change intervals. In my case I run 20,000 mile OCI's and with the advent of ULSD actually do 25,000 miles OCI's. .