Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

1…114115117119120…131

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you can't get satisfaction next time you bring it around, try this:

    Write the dealership a letter and use words like "dangerous", "ineffective braking", "concern for my family's safety" and watch 'em jump. Be courteous and professional but let them know you want to be on record about this brake defect, "just for the record".
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I already used the "unsafe" play, via email. It seemed to get their attention. That and I said I was going to take them up on their 5-day return-the-car offer if they couldn't fix the brakes to my satisfaction.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    GEEZ this is a Volkswagen, not the Space Shuttle.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    You're right. The Space Shuttle has not only ABS brakes, but that big honkin' parachute to haul it down to a stop. And I don't have one of those cool robot arms on my Jetta.

    Other than that, I have absolutely no idea what you are talking about nor why you made that comment. :confuse: :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ah, I was obtuse, I'm sorry.

    What I meant was, why can't the VW dealer fix the brakes? The offer of buy-back suggests that they aren't too optimistic. This is primarily a hydraulic/mechnical system---everything is touch-able and replaceable.

    It's not like chasing electrons around the car. :P
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    They did fix the brakes, at least they are working OK now. But if there was in fact a small leak, that might not show up right away which is why I said I'd keep an eye on it.

    The return offer is on ALL of their used cars.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Got it! Well hope it works out. You have to have confidence in your brakes.
  • hlcastelohlcastelo Member Posts: 45
    Does anyone know of a dealer, vendor or website that offers VW parts/accessories other than local dealer? Sometimes even a dealer sells parts to out of state customers at wholesale prices.

    Thank You.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    YES! here are a few examples:
    http://www.tdiparts.com/catalog/
    http://www.1stvwparts.com/
    http://www.worldimpex.com/
    http://www.germanautoparts.com/

    My preference is TDIPARTS... they specialize in diesel parts but also carry lots of stuff which covers all VWs (Brakes, oil, bodyParts....etc)

    Most often, SHIPPING is the thing that gets you when shopping online. I always select a place which is PHYSICALLY close to my home to reduce shipping costs.
  • hlcastelohlcastelo Member Posts: 45
    Awesome thanks. LIke the reference to tdi. I just leased a 2009. Appreciate the quick reply.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    This is one place I have tried. They are fair and have good service.

    https://www.1stvwparts.com/partscat.html

    Joe
  • niteflite888niteflite888 Member Posts: 30
    i have almost 55k miles on my car. it was driven by my wife for 80% of its life, and 20% by me. all i've had done on the car are oil changes every 4,000 miles, air filter every 20k miles or so, and tire rotations. i was planning on selling or trading in the vehicle when the MIL came on...but it wound up not being an issue (at least for now). so now i want to keep it for two more years before i get rid of it. can anyone recommend what maintenance i should get done on the car? do i need to get a transmission fluid change? flush? coolant change/flush? brake fluid change/flush? spark plugs? i just want the car to be in better shape for the next two years.

    thanks.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    This issue has been going on since we bought this Jetta in July of this year when it had 87K miles. It has 93K miles now. The previous owner was saying that the last time it acted up was a year ago. I have a hard time believing him. An independent garage checked all stored codes nothing showed up related to this, cleared the codes, cleaned all connections thinking it was fix.

    When you turn the key, the lights are dim, it appear no strong current/voltage is going where it supposed to. In crank position, you hear a click, click, click while the dash lights go out. I replaced the starter with a Napa lifetime warranty brand, it ran fine for two weeks, and then acted up again. Replaced the battery and it did it again.

    Where is the clutch interlock switch on these cars? When it acts up, a jump start always makes the car crank if not right away, it does in a minute or so, or pushing and releasing the clutch 7-8 times while holding the key in crank position makes the car fire up also.

    One sign of not starting is faint flashers when the car is unlocked with the remote botton. If the light is strong, it is certain that the car will crank and start.

    In one not starting day, the mechainc stopped at my house, and showed me that the ignition wire was hot, the battery was good, and thought my replaced starter was bad. I find this possible but very unlikley.

    Joe
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I believe spark plugs were supposed to be replaced at 40K mi, brake fluid is supposed to be flushed every 2 years. I think transmission fluid and coolant are theoretically lifetime...so should certainly be fine for 2 more years.

    Find out more here: http://www.vw.com/myvw/yourcar/maintenance/findschedules/en/us/
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    Just a stab in the dark, (No pun intended.)
    Try getting the ignition control module tested at Autozone.
    Though this seems less likely if the ignition was hot.

    I believe if it was the clutch interlock switch, or neutral safety switch was the culprit you would not get any click from the starter. Because the starter is not suppose to turn at all to prevent the car from moving while cranking.

    Usually these symptoms relate to a bad connection or bad battery.
    Take the car or battery to Autozone and get a free battery test.
    Free starter test and charging system as well.
    Tough it seems that the alternator is probably fine.
    This will also tell you what current and voltage the starter is getting.

    Had one fellow who had a short in the blower motor switch. Even though the igniton key was out of the car the short made the blower run all night and drained the battery.
    Not saying that is your problem but something else could be draining the battery.
    Though that does not seem likely since the battery was checked by the mechanic first thing in the morning and found good.

    Could the battery cable to the starter be corroded internally?
    I have seen this happen.
    This prevents strong voltage and current from getting to the starter.
    And when a jump is done then the double current from the batteries can make the starter operate.

    Next time, with having a code for the radio avaialable, disconnect the battery from the car. Or use a settings keeper. One terminal will do. Preferably the positive. Use a battery jump starter or another vehicle battery to try and start the car. Connecting the the unattached battery cable and the post of the attached cable or attached to a ground on the car.
    If it starts right away then the battery in your car may have internal issues.
    If it does not then the battery probably is not the culprit.
    If settings keeper was not used, then reconnect your battery. and re-code the radio if necessary.

    These are the things I would look at.
    Pray this helps.
  • smitteyb11smitteyb11 Member Posts: 6
    Hey thanks for the replies guys-

    The O2 sensors are under warranty still, so they'll get replaced.

    As for the CEL blinking- IT DOES on occasion. Which is a misfire? Correct?

    I'll look for all of these and get back to you. Thanks so much for your time.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Clean the snowscreen!! (at least once a year for best econemy and performance) It takes only about 10-20 minutes to do it and the benifet is manyfold.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    CEL "ON" = OK TO DRIVE

    CEL "BLINKING" = pull over and shut off engine... continued driving will cause damage. (like Catalyst getting fried)
  • rosweetrosweet Member Posts: 6
    Hell All,
    I only have my new 2009 Jetta for two months, and didn't pay too much attention to where I park my car and popped my trunk too close the the cabinet in my garage. guess what, the white paint of the cainet left a mark in my red jetta's trunk door. Can anybody tell me what I should do: take back to the dealer let them fix it or go buy a wax (don't know which???) and try to wax it off, or go to a car wash let them fixed it?

    really appreciate your answers! :sick:
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    As long as there is no dent or scratch, only the white paint, you should be able to buff it out with a polishing compound. Be sure not to rub too hard. You could try using a wax/polish first to see if it takes the paint off--use the most gentle compound possible to avoid scratching the red paint.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Thanks for the info. The click click click sound comes from behind the dash from some relays when the key is in ON position, it does not come from the starter. No noise comes from the starter at all. then in crank position, the lights are dim, the dash light fade out,

    Once the car starts and turn it off, and start it again. It acts like nothing was wrong. it starts and runs great.

    You can not turn the window down when it acts up. The power supply appears shot. the red battery cable looks new like the previous owner replaced it.

    Joe

    Joe
  • shaghilshaghil Member Posts: 2
    I am buying a Jetta TDI automatic with 167000 km, from exterior to interior the car seems excellent and I just wanna know any one suggest me what to look more in it or share his or her experience in this regard, i would greatly appreciate, thank you
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The most important things to look for:
    *)Has the proper Synthetic 505.00 oil been used at all times?
    *)Has the TimingBelt been replaced at the proper intervals? (Including Watepump,pullies,idlers,tensioners and related compoents)

    It should be pretty obvious what the reslult of using the wrong oil does to the engine.

    Some people have purchased TDIs only to find out that a cheep "quickie" TimingBelt change had been done.... the waterpump and/or pullies which were NOT changed may not make it till the next TimingBelt change interval. The result may be SERIOUS damage to engine when the pistons crash into the valves.
  • shaghilshaghil Member Posts: 2
    lots of thanks for your valuable advices, than you again shaghil
  • WilsonFLWilsonFL Member Posts: 1
    The timing belt on my daughter's 2000 VW Jetta GLS 1.8T broke at 65K just last week. This car has had every scheduled maintenance including the 40K where they are supposed to check the timing belt. The dealer gave me an estimate of $4,863.00 in repairs and suggested I trade it in to them for a new VW! Needless to say I had the car towed from there to a private garage for a second estimate and opinion but if it is that severely damaged I will most likely not fix it but sell it for junk parts...that's how little I think of this car. You are right, VW was NO help at all and took no responsibility for the design flaw of this car despite my raising the issue with both the dealer and VW customer care (what a joke) for the class action suit with the Passat and the Audi with this very issue.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Here's the link to the Class Action settlement:

    http://www.psswplaw.com/CM/ClassActions/Volkswagen.asp

    For some reason, your car doesn't seem to be on the list. Not sure why that is.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Well the good news is folks are getting what has been probably long over due ! The bad news: VW dealerships are tasked with performing the task !!! A lot of dealerships can't even put the correct VW specified oil in the vehicles they are servicing ,even as a new VW 507.00 is backwards compatible ( TDI ) !!?? :lemon:
  • wtknght1wtknght1 Member Posts: 5
    We really need to get word out there guys. Please email me if you or anyone you know that has had this problem. The list is growing and I've contacted the firm that was responsible for the VW/Audi lawsuit.

    Thanks!!

    Chris Ingle
    wtknght1@aol.com
  • aly1523aly1523 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 2002 Jetta 2.0 automatic, when I get passed 60 mph my speedometer likes to flutter back and forth, and it will not go past 70 mph. It is always 5-10 mph off. I can not use my cruise control because of it, any ideas? :blush:
  • WwilltWwillt Member Posts: 8
    My driverside door will not open. I just started this this past weekend. I just bought a keyless entry switch but did not have it with me. The door would not open from the inside nor the outside. The door button goes up and down with the turn of he key from the passenger door outside and inside with the switch; but the door will not open. Oh yeah my car is a 97' Jetta VR6.
  • microjmicroj Member Posts: 10
    What is the climate like where you live? When I lived in Canada, sometimes the lock and door would freeze shut. The lock button would go but when the keyless entry was activated but the door would not open. if you live somewhere warm then disregard.
  • cdm2883cdm2883 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 jetta automatic i got the code P1296. what does that mean and how can i fix it?

    Thanks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Sure sounds like the symptoms of a door frozen shut. If you live in freezing temps., it is a good idea to apply GummiPflege to all the door and trunk seals before winter sets in. This pretty much eliminates doors frozen shut.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's a cooling system malfunction and needs further diagnosis. Under suspicion would be the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor. A VAG diagnostic tool can verify if this sensor is malfunctioning or if some wiring is screwed up....or if the sensor isn't too expensive you can replace it and get someone to clear the code for you.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    P1296 indicates a Malfunction In The Cooling System.

    Your 2001 was NOTORIOUS for the Coolant Temparture Sensor (CTS) failing. If your CTS is not green in color- REPLACE IT.

    It is about $30 and takes about 20 minuts to replace. (Depending on which engine you have) The 2.0L is the easiest and you will not even lose any coolant in the process.

    BTW: A vag (computer) tester may not be able to diagnose a bad CTS because this is a DUAL sensor. 1/2 of the sensor feeds the Engine Computer and the other 1/2 of the sensor feeds the dashboard temp. needle. The VAG tool can only read the 1/2 feeding the computer.

    Here is a diagram of CTS loccation (2.0L engine)
  • Brock_hanson23Brock_hanson23 Member Posts: 1
    hi, i recently broke my hood release on my 99 jetta and am unable to get to my engine. i believe i snapped my cable somewhere under the hood. i was just wondering how i would be able to fix this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Argh! Always a hassle. If it broke right at the handle under the dash, you might be able to get some vice grips on the end of the broken cable.

    But if it broke at the latch in front, that could be tricky. All cars are different but I have seen the hood successfully opened by putting the car on a lift and then tripping the latch with a long screwdriver, from underneath.

    What you need to do, if you can, is find another '99 Jetta and examine how best you can attack the problem. Many people/mechanics panic and end up messing up their cars in their desperation to get the hood open.
  • BUZZ71BUZZ71 Member Posts: 1
    OK, I know you are thinking my wife has been hitting the sauce, but really she is just a little ole schoolteacher that drives back and forth to school and the stores around our house. We bought our haunted Jetta brand new, and really other than the standard problem with the window regulators and a lock problem with the trunk, we really have had few problems--to tell you the truth, I'm not sure the car's ever been driven over 55!

    Anyway recently, my wife told me she had this problem with her car acting up! She told me she was driving down the street, minding her own business when her driver's window and the rear, passenger-side window start going down by themselves. The back window only goes down a few inches and stops, but the front, driver-side window starts down, stops, then continues down until completely open. At the same time this is happening, the door locks start operating randomly, locking and unlocking. This is happening regularly now, and we would like to get some explanation and some resolution. Needless-to-say, the dealership has been very nice and understanding, but they say they can't find these symptoms in their Mechanic's Handbook.

    Now, I know this is a weird one. I want everyone to kinow that after hearing my wife's story, I considered checking her into the local psych hospital, but I thought I would put her story on this forum and see if we could get an explanation before I resort to such drastic measures.

    Has anyone got an explanation, and more importantly, a solution?

    Buzz71 :D
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    For starters, before anyone starts unraveling miles of wire spaghetti, I would suggest that you have the alternator and battery checked to see if the voltage is sufficient. When voltages drop on a modern car, the computer controls get very unhappy.

    On this car, are the window switches AND the door locks all in one "pod" in the door?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You asked ==> "On this car, are the window switches AND the door locks all in one "pod" in the door? "

    The answer is -- YES, the drivers door contains all those contoller-switches on the armrest. HOWEVER, the other doors do not contain switches like this. (To open a door, you just pull the handle... no need to "unlock" it.... REAR doors require 2 pulls to open.)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if one were looking for a short circuit then, that's a great place to start, seems to me.
  • skiniminiskinimini Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Jetta that had some similar issues a couple of years ago. I like that you refer to it as a haunting because that is exactly how it seems! One night after leaving a second job I went to unlock my car and put the key in however it would not turn either direction. Since it was winter I thought maybe the lock had frozen although it seemed like a stretch since the key went in fine. So I tried to automatic button on the keyless entry (I tried not to use it much) and that didn't work either! I had to get a ride home and was worried I'd have to get a locksmith. Well the next day I went back and was able to get in the car just fine!?? Within a week the keyless entry was no longer working at all. I called the Jetta dealer here and was told it could be up to $200 to get the keyless entry reprogrammed so I said forget it and I'll just unlock the car with the keys. I continue to have issues with the doors locking on their own though. Sometimes I have had to get in the back seat and crawl over to the front because when I try to open the door it just won't open. I have also had to crawl out the back even when getting in the front because the door will mess up and have no resistance when I pull the handle to get out of the car and it has happened with the back doors as well. I have no idea what the issue could be but I don't even lock my car anymore because of it. I just don't have the extra money to take it in because it costs an arm and a leg to do anything to this car. I am now having other issues with it starting. I just spent $630 on a tune up and new AC Delco battery and it is still having issues starting. This morning it took a few times to get it started but once I did it wouldn't idle unless I had my foot on the gas so I don't know what is wrong now. I already had to take it back once because the battery cable was messed up or at least that is what the shop told me.
  • brooklyntechbrooklyntech Member Posts: 6
    Could someone PLEASE tell me how to fix? I cannot connect my radar detector because the outlet/lighter does not work. The funny thing is that the one in the trunk works fine. ANY IDEAS??
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Just a wild guess.... FUSE?

    HINT: Read owners manual!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Many times if it's not the fuse, what has happened is that people buy accessory devices with a plug in that is not quite the right fit---so they tug on it to get it out, and they end up pulling off the wire behind the socket, behind the dash.
  • allnfunallnfun Member Posts: 2
    Hello! What is the process for adjusting the headlights on my 2001 Jetta?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You're probably going to need the Bentley manual for this as it requires diagrams and explanations that are rather complicated to jam into this little box. Or let a shop do it as they have the special equipment for alignment. Sometimes the public library will have a manual and once you can see where the adjusting screws are, perhaps you can find a blank wall at night and at least get a "rough" alignment going.

    I don't have a clear diagram to post but maybe someone else can fish one up for you. Each lamp has two adjusters.
  • paulanthonydfwpaulanthonydfw Member Posts: 6
    I was told that Jetta's only take synthetic oil. I have a 2008 2.5, is that true or can I get a regular oil change. I bought the car used so I don't know what kind of oil was previously used. :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Since you did not mention which engine you have... we cannot really answer the question. In general... if you have a turbocharged engine. you MUST use synthetic oil and premium fuel.

    Why dont you just read the owners manual?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Hopefully the car did come with an owner's manual, but if not you might check out some of the VW-focused discussions on the Web. A quick google search found several notes re synthetic being required by VW on the 2.5, which means if you don't use factory-spec synthetic and there's an engine problem that can be traced to non-spec oil, VW can deny coverage under the warranty.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles