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Comments
Jetta TDI..
Mary
What keeps dying? The engine? The cooling fan(s)? A little more info please. Do you have a repair manual?
Tracy
Mine broke a bunch of years ago. Same thing happened. Sorry to say that you will have to replace the glove box cover. The way I did mine was to use a Dremel with a cutting wheel on it. You have to cut little openings on each side of the glove box. This so you can get needle nose pliers in there to move the latches over to release them. Now the glove box will open and it's a matter of taking out the screws that hold it in the IP. You can use the new cover as a guide as to where to cut and where the screws are located. You will have to take the old lock out and put it in the new cover. That isn't too hard either. Cost is about a hundred dollars from VW. Not cheap, I know!!!
Tracy
I must admit one thing first, the new Jettas are great. I love the new smoked taillights and revised dashboard for 2008+. However, my 2008 seems to have a series of minor issues. It just hit a year old last week and have already had a couple problems but nothing major. First of all, the gear selector in my automatic jetta has many flaws obviously for the leather part around the shifter (added to give it that "luxury" look) actually like snapped off and is falling apart currently. its not a huge deal but its bugging me. i havent really though about getting it fixed at our vw dealer but if you are a picky person, this would really annoy you! Lastly, just about 1 month or so ago, i tried to use the horn and it was completely busted. the horn stopped working after 1 year and the airbag lights were on. I wasnt sure what happened so i tried changing the fuses but that did nothing. I lived without a horn for 2 weeks or so and then i finally got it fixed at vw. Supposedly, this is common in 2005+ Jettas. The spring seemed to have came loose or broke inside the steering wheel throwing off the airbag as well as the horn. Well, now my jetta is back to being brand new (with the exception of the gear selector issue). Once again, the jetta is a great car!!! if you want german engineering and speed, go with a Jetta or GLI without a doubt (unless you can afford the BMW, Audi, or Merc C class.) haha
Hope i helped you out,
Paul
P0134
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 No Activity Detected
16684
P0300
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
16686
P0302
Cyl.2 Misfire Detected
16688
P0304
Cyl.4 Misfire Detected
17978
P1570
Contr.Module Locked
My instrument panel lights up like a christmas tree with the check engine light, the epc light and that lovely triangle light all coming on.
I can feel a slight change in the idle with the idle being a little rougher now, there's also some hesitation and I can feel the care misfire even at highway speeds.
Where should I start with my diagnostics?
apparently your car's front suspension got damaged and is still damaged - and you have not been able to find a competent mechanic to repair it even after spending $3500.
Did you hit a major pothole or curb 70k miles ago!?
Which parts were replaced for $3500? !
Cupping is generally a suspension issue--this should be fixable. Maybe you need to go to a really good collision shop and get on a frame machine and see what the heck is going on here.
I would start with the misfires. Misfires will cause the O2's to kick on. Been there, done that. Could be as simple as plugs. Could be the Control Mod. has a serious issue, but I think that's a long shot.
Have the plugs ever been replaced? How about the wires, or ignition coil?
Tracy
Even then, whatever parts are damaged should have been replaced, so that it would be able to be properly aligned. Rebuilding the entire front end would have cost less than $3500 wouldn't it? I know my kid spent less than that on new front springs, struts, bearings, and axles on his '96 Jetta. (of course he also wore out two tires in about 6000 miles...evenly though, no cupping or anything)
1) Obviously these are not ALL happening at once (they are symptoms of the REAL problem so DO NOT start chasing all those codes)
2) Validate you do not have the dreaded coolant migration issue which wicks antifreeze into the entire electrical system.
3) Suspect a bad ground somewhere (becasue only a GROUND can affect so many things at the same time)
4)Use VagCom to monitor/graph O2 sensors while you drive (there is one BEFORE and one AFTER the cat.)
It is a gas engine, battery is only 2 years old. I looked up on Edmunds and it said something about the ETC sensor going bad on the Jettas but there was no further information. If I take it to my mechanic, even if it is not the same conditions (freezing) can he check the sensor? I am almost done paying this stupid car off and would LOVE to keep it until it dies basically. VW's are supposed to last forever!
As for the $3500....thats from god knows how many alignments, 3 sets of tires, and so called expert opinions from several so called experts. I'm so fed up with how the dealership tells me I'm off my rocker and how the car continues to eat up tires. I loved my Jetta ... but now I'd just love to get rid of it. I was curious if anyone had encounter this similar problem of cronically cupping tires and alignment.
Thanks for the input though! Appreciate it
Tools needed: T-25 and T-30 torx (to remove 9 x T-25 and 3 x T-30 screws that hold the plastic undercoat). 32 mm or 1-1/4 box wrench to remove top oil filter housing (you will need an universal 1/2" joint, 5" extension 1/2" drive because it's a tight spot to get that pesky oil filter housing off). 19 mm box wrench to remove oil plug.
Parts needed: Mann oil filter HU719/7X and 4 quarts of Castol Gold 507 00 synthetic oil.
To reset the oil change interval display in your info.display (without going to the Dealer or without the need of the VAG COM re-setting instrument): Keys out of the ignition press and hold in trip odometer button 0.0 on your right. While still holding this button, insert key into ignition and put to the "on" position (without starting the car). Display will read "service now". Let go off "0.0" button and depress "m" or "min" button on the left side of the display. This will re-set the service reminder.
Those handy enough can tackle this in less than 1/2 hour!
Don't forget to recycle the used oil!
Happy motoring!
To be technical about it, VW is "Mexican" car and Mann oil filter is actually manufactured in Czech Republic and is put in Skoda's cars - the factory in Mlada Boleslav, whose majority is owned by Germans. Castrol 507 00 (recommended by VW) is made in U.K. Germans don't have their own oil - not that I am aware of.
In this day and age when car globalization is wide-spread it's hard to say what is "off brand". My VW Tdi, for example, is 35% German, 30% Mexican, 9% US/Canadian and the rest from elsewhere. It is assembled in Puebla, Mexico and the 35% of German items are mostly engine and a transmission.
Or, to put it another way, if the brand is sold at VW dealers, it's probably fine.
also i wonder if your insurance company paid beyond-deductible portion of the $3500 in repairs - seems like it should/would be covered under either collision or comprehensive insurance?
thanks
#1 yes i have had car engines continue to run after turning off the ignition. it's called 'dieseling' or 'run-on' when it happens to a gas engine. "backfire" can occur along with it - possibly that was the LOUD noise you heard.
i think actual diesel engines have fail-safe to prevent 'run-on' after key turned off (there's no ignition to turn off in a diesel engine).
You mentioned that the engine wouldn't stop. Then you said engine died and power/lights etc went off. So it did stop after a bit, eh? (how long?)
#2 No I have never seen any of my cars start without a key in the ignition but I understand such a thing is known as "hot wiring".
If you have other/followup questions I am happy to consider them.
best regards...
From your description, one possibility is that the timing-belt/chain may have "slipped/skipped", resulting in the timing being "way off".
Disconnecting the MAF sensor forces the computer into "default" mode where most of the settings are forced to nominalized settings. (injection pulsewidth, ignition timing...etc)
My daughters 2001 had been idling very rough and as soon as I popped the connector from the MAF... it smoothed right out. She has been driving like that for months.
Also, if you have not cleaned your snowscreen within the past 12 months... do it! It gets dirty very quickly. I clean the snowscreen on all of my VWs at least annually and I am always amazed how plugged-up it is.
16684
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
16688
Cyl.4 Misfire Detected
17950
Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Range/Performance
17952
Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too High
17953
Throttle Pos.Contr Malfunction
I don't really understand what's going on. Some days the car will run fine and other days I think it's going to blow up on me.
I'm guessing that your Jetta is running reasonably well. How many miles?
Years ago, I had the #1 spark plug go bad to the point that the engine wouldn't stay running. I think I had every engine code there was to have. Even though I had one bad plug, it tripped all kinds of codes. Plugs do go bad before there time.
I still say the best place to start is the spark plugs. They are not expensive and are easy to replace. Check out the plug wires for any cuts, rips, holes, ect. Look for a whitish gray coating on the wires. If they are grounding out, you may get this. If you have a multimeter, you can check the resistance of the wires as well. Be VERY careful pulling the wires off the plugs. Best to use a special tool for this.
I replaced my coil around 90K. Wasn't bad(no codes) but it was getting old. Simple part to replace and don't want to get stuck somewhere because of it.
There are internal engine parts that can cause misfires, but think that your post would be much different if you had this.
Tracy
There are only about 2 answers;
1)Poor electrical Power
2)Poor electrical Ground
HINT: Remove,clean and tighten EVERY electrical connection you can find under the hood. (disconnect battery 1st)
I hope you mean that you pulled the ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR from the MAF.... and did not remove the MAF itself from the intake-plenum.
I know what you mean about shooting in the dark when you do not have a computer. That is why I simply hook up my laptop to my VW and run diagnostics with my VagCom WIth 3 VWs in the family, it paid for itself within a year by saving $50 each time a dealership runs diagnostics (regardless if they actually FIX anything or not)
As I recall, the procedure involves pushing throttle to floor then turning ignition-switch without starting engine. .... there is step-by-step procedure to do that on the internet.
Can anyone tell me WHAT to Check Next I am Lost.
Thank you in Advance
Regards
MATT