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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    $400 for a battery :confuse:
  • patschmompatschmom Member Posts: 1
    Is there a trick to replacing the two rear hydrolic struts, I have done this before but my hands don't remember the "trick" to it. I have them here and before I detach anything thought maybe I would try you folks to limit my struggle.

    Jetta TDI..

    Mary
  • dm9981dm9981 Member Posts: 1
    Have a quick question for you guys. Long story short, my 2002 Jetta 1.8t keeps dying and i think i have narrowed it down to the coolant fan. I now plan to start with the relay and replace things in order up to the coolant fan until my car works again. The concern i have is i don't know which relay to replace. I see the numbers on the top, but i don't know which one is which. My second problem is i try to find these relays online and i cant seem to locate where to purchase them. Any suggestions?
  • underthevwhoodunderthevwhood Member Posts: 23
    dm,

    What keeps dying? The engine? The cooling fan(s)? A little more info please. Do you have a repair manual?

    Tracy
  • brooklyntechbrooklyntech Member Posts: 6
    Does anyone know how to repair the gove box handle? I tried opening my glove box and it just snapped off - I see some broken plastic and two metal pins? The door actually closes - Do I have to get a whole other glove door? thanks.
  • underthevwhoodunderthevwhood Member Posts: 23
    Brooklyntech,

    Mine broke a bunch of years ago. Same thing happened. Sorry to say that you will have to replace the glove box cover. The way I did mine was to use a Dremel with a cutting wheel on it. You have to cut little openings on each side of the glove box. This so you can get needle nose pliers in there to move the latches over to release them. Now the glove box will open and it's a matter of taking out the screws that hold it in the IP. You can use the new cover as a guide as to where to cut and where the screws are located. You will have to take the old lock out and put it in the new cover. That isn't too hard either. Cost is about a hundred dollars from VW. Not cheap, I know!!!

    Tracy
  • s550iwishs550iwish Member Posts: 28
    Hey everyone,

    I must admit one thing first, the new Jettas are great. I love the new smoked taillights and revised dashboard for 2008+. However, my 2008 seems to have a series of minor issues. It just hit a year old last week and have already had a couple problems but nothing major. First of all, the gear selector in my automatic jetta has many flaws obviously for the leather part around the shifter (added to give it that "luxury" look) actually like snapped off and is falling apart currently. its not a huge deal but its bugging me. i havent really though about getting it fixed at our vw dealer but if you are a picky person, this would really annoy you! Lastly, just about 1 month or so ago, i tried to use the horn and it was completely busted. the horn stopped working after 1 year and the airbag lights were on. I wasnt sure what happened so i tried changing the fuses but that did nothing. I lived without a horn for 2 weeks or so and then i finally got it fixed at vw. Supposedly, this is common in 2005+ Jettas. The spring seemed to have came loose or broke inside the steering wheel throwing off the airbag as well as the horn. Well, now my jetta is back to being brand new (with the exception of the gear selector issue). Once again, the jetta is a great car!!! if you want german engineering and speed, go with a Jetta or GLI without a doubt (unless you can afford the BMW, Audi, or Merc C class.) haha :D

    Hope i helped you out,
    Paul
  • gcrv44agcrv44a Member Posts: 2
    I have had a never ending problem with my alignment and tires. I have taken it to 3 different places (including the dealer) and have spent about $3,500 trying to fix it. According to the tire specialist, I have a damaged alignment that they are unable to fix; as such, my tires are wearing incorrectly. This is known as cupping(?) and causes the steering wheel to vibrate when driving in the freeway and quick balding of the tires. I have to replace the tires every 18 months at this point. It is a 2003 Jetta with on 70k miles and on its 4th set of tires. This doesn’t seem right? My pocket book can’t afford this anymore, I’m ready to trade it in! :cry:
  • nitekimnitekim Member Posts: 5
    16518
    P0134
    O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 No Activity Detected

    16684
    P0300
    Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

    16686
    P0302
    Cyl.2 Misfire Detected

    16688
    P0304
    Cyl.4 Misfire Detected

    17978
    P1570
    Contr.Module Locked

    My instrument panel lights up like a christmas tree with the check engine light, the epc light and that lovely triangle light all coming on.

    I can feel a slight change in the idle with the idle being a little rougher now, there's also some hesitation and I can feel the care misfire even at highway speeds.

    Where should I start with my diagnostics?
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    it's definitely not right!
    apparently your car's front suspension got damaged and is still damaged - and you have not been able to find a competent mechanic to repair it even after spending $3500.
    Did you hit a major pothole or curb 70k miles ago!?
    Which parts were replaced for $3500? !
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    i'd start by getting the O2 sensor error(s) cleared, possibly by swapping in new O2 sensor(s) .
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well given that there are technicians out there who can take a totally smashed up Jetta and make it go straight again, I hope you can find a highly competent alignment shop that will go the extra mile for you and figure this out. With today's modern alignment equipment, I can't imagine a car that's not alignable unless it was severely damaged to the point where none of the adjustments can bring it back.

    Cupping is generally a suspension issue--this should be fixable. Maybe you need to go to a really good collision shop and get on a frame machine and see what the heck is going on here.
  • underthevwhoodunderthevwhood Member Posts: 23
    nitekim,

    I would start with the misfires. Misfires will cause the O2's to kick on. Been there, done that. Could be as simple as plugs. Could be the Control Mod. has a serious issue, but I think that's a long shot.

    Have the plugs ever been replaced? How about the wires, or ignition coil?

    Tracy
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    "I can't imagine a car that's not alignable unless it was severely damaged to the point where none of the adjustments can bring it back."

    Even then, whatever parts are damaged should have been replaced, so that it would be able to be properly aligned. Rebuilding the entire front end would have cost less than $3500 wouldn't it? I know my kid spent less than that on new front springs, struts, bearings, and axles on his '96 Jetta. (of course he also wore out two tires in about 6000 miles...evenly though, no cupping or anything)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I was thinking of a case where the unibody was tweaked so badly that it couldn't be aligned...you know, like "crabbing".
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Don't they have ways of straightening the "frame" though? (I've no idea what the cost of that would be)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh sure they can straighten anything, pretty much.
  • wishupon7starswishupon7stars Member Posts: 1
    I already bought the parts I need, just have to get them put into my car. I have a 1998 VW Jetta GL and have to get my plenum gasket and valve cover gasket replaced. I don't want to get ripped off so how much should I expect to pay?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You asked where to start... I have been troubleshooting and fixing electronics over 30 years and here is my initial diagnosis.

    1) Obviously these are not ALL happening at once (they are symptoms of the REAL problem so DO NOT start chasing all those codes)
    2) Validate you do not have the dreaded coolant migration issue which wicks antifreeze into the entire electrical system.
    3) Suspect a bad ground somewhere (becasue only a GROUND can affect so many things at the same time)
    4)Use VagCom to monitor/graph O2 sensors while you drive (there is one BEFORE and one AFTER the cat.)
  • tizz1600tizz1600 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone else encountered this? My 2003 Jetta will not start when it is colder than 25 degrees Farenheit. It will crank and crank but not start. It is so frustrating when I have to get to work. Took it to the mechanic, he replaced a hose and said it should be fine but it wasn't. I always keep the tank full of gas and put "Heat" in the gas tank as well. Please any mechanics or anyone who has experienced this before..help!

    It is a gas engine, battery is only 2 years old. I looked up on Edmunds and it said something about the ETC sensor going bad on the Jettas but there was no further information. If I take it to my mechanic, even if it is not the same conditions (freezing) can he check the sensor? I am almost done paying this stupid car off and would LOVE to keep it until it dies basically. VW's are supposed to last forever!
  • moppmonkeymoppmonkey Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Jetta Wagon - the overall length of my wagon is 33mm longer than the sedan. I'm buying exhaust parts online but no one offers "wagon" as a choice for car model. Does anyone know if an exhaust system for a wagon is the same for a sedan given the overall car length is only 33mm difference. Wheel base is only 3mm difference! I would like to know before I buy the parts.
  • gcrv44agcrv44a Member Posts: 2
    I hit a massive pot hole at about 20k miles. I had to replace the a wheel and have the alignment fixed. But that's when the problems started happening...
    As for the $3500....thats from god knows how many alignments, 3 sets of tires, and so called expert opinions from several so called experts. I'm so fed up with how the dealership tells me I'm off my rocker and how the car continues to eat up tires. I loved my Jetta ... but now I'd just love to get rid of it. I was curious if anyone had encounter this similar problem of cronically cupping tires and alignment.

    Thanks for the input though! Appreciate it
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I just changed oil and filter on my 09 Jetta Tdi Wagon.
    Tools needed: T-25 and T-30 torx (to remove 9 x T-25 and 3 x T-30 screws that hold the plastic undercoat). 32 mm or 1-1/4 box wrench to remove top oil filter housing (you will need an universal 1/2" joint, 5" extension 1/2" drive because it's a tight spot to get that pesky oil filter housing off). 19 mm box wrench to remove oil plug.
    Parts needed: Mann oil filter HU719/7X and 4 quarts of Castol Gold 507 00 synthetic oil.
    To reset the oil change interval display in your info.display (without going to the Dealer or without the need of the VAG COM re-setting instrument): Keys out of the ignition press and hold in trip odometer button 0.0 on your right. While still holding this button, insert key into ignition and put to the "on" position (without starting the car). Display will read "service now". Let go off "0.0" button and depress "m" or "min" button on the left side of the display. This will re-set the service reminder.

    Those handy enough can tackle this in less than 1/2 hour!

    Don't forget to recycle the used oil!

    Happy motoring!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    good idea to use German oil filters in German cars, IMO. No off-brands, in house brands, please.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Not sure what you are trying to say...
    To be technical about it, VW is "Mexican" car and Mann oil filter is actually manufactured in Czech Republic and is put in Skoda's cars - the factory in Mlada Boleslav, whose majority is owned by Germans. Castrol 507 00 (recommended by VW) is made in U.K. Germans don't have their own oil - not that I am aware of.
    In this day and age when car globalization is wide-spread it's hard to say what is "off brand". My VW Tdi, for example, is 35% German, 30% Mexican, 9% US/Canadian and the rest from elsewhere. It is assembled in Puebla, Mexico and the 35% of German items are mostly engine and a transmission.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's built to the VW factory spec is what I meant, not a copy of a VW filter that is reverse-engineered, or skimped on to market at a lower price.

    Or, to put it another way, if the brand is sold at VW dealers, it's probably fine.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    you are most welcome, gcrv44a. in your situation i too would be tempted to trade the car.
    also i wonder if your insurance company paid beyond-deductible portion of the $3500 in repairs - seems like it should/would be covered under either collision or comprehensive insurance?
  • heather26heather26 Member Posts: 2
    Anyone have any suggestions for an 02 jetta battery drain. Aftermarket radio installed over three years ago. have the original monsoon amp. Car dies after sitting for more than 2 or 4 days. Recharges and then dies again. Tried alternator and also fuses one by one. Something is still draining a ton of energy from that battery. Any ideas for a fix? Could it be the fuse behind the radio? Heard there is a fuse there but haven't pulled radio yet. Love the car have over 190,000 miles on it. But now this ??
  • heather26heather26 Member Posts: 2
    I know your problem was YEARS ago, but I am having same issue with my car now. DId you ever find out what drains the battery?
    thanks
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    The only 2 things that I can think of is an alarm system or a bulb on in the trunk (had that problem with Saab - trunk light bulb was on and I did not see it because the trunk was closed). Some lights have 3 way switches, one of them keeps it on all the time. Not sure if Jetta sedan has one in the trunk - I happen to have a wagon.
  • amy28amy28 Member Posts: 2
    99.5 Jetta 2.0L 4-cylinder.....So I stopped to get gas today. I shut the car off and continued around the car to start getting gas and I heard this LOUD noise hoping that it was the car across the street unfortunately it wasn't. Having my key in the off position my engine was still running. I couldn't shut it off. Engine died and so did all the power lights, radio etc. Thought maybe I needed a jump! Nice try. Car started with the NO key in the ignition but didn't stay running for long. Has this every happened to anyone?
  • popadopolispopadopolis Member Posts: 16
    Back in 2004 we purchased a new beetle and receive a recall notice shortly after. According to the recall, they claimed the monsoon amp was found to be powered up after shutting car off, causing constant battery drain resulting in a dead battery within a few days. Amp was replaced. Never experienced dead battery as car was driven every day. Perhaps you should have your amp checked for power with key off. Worth a try just to be sure. Let us know your findings.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    hello amy28. to answer your questions:
    #1 yes i have had car engines continue to run after turning off the ignition. it's called 'dieseling' or 'run-on' when it happens to a gas engine. "backfire" can occur along with it - possibly that was the LOUD noise you heard.
    i think actual diesel engines have fail-safe to prevent 'run-on' after key turned off (there's no ignition to turn off in a diesel engine).
    You mentioned that the engine wouldn't stop. Then you said engine died and power/lights etc went off. So it did stop after a bit, eh? (how long?)
    #2 No I have never seen any of my cars start without a key in the ignition but I understand such a thing is known as "hot wiring".
    If you have other/followup questions I am happy to consider them.
    best regards...
  • amy28amy28 Member Posts: 2
    I have had alot of wierd things happen with this car but this is by far the wierdest. I had it towed to the dealership, I will let you know what the out come is. Come to think of it the car did back-fire here a few weeks ago but I didn't think anything of it. I would say that the car ran for a good 20sec-1min after I shut it off. Also noticed round spot of oil under the car, just had an oil change about 3 weeks ago. When the jumper cables was applied to my battery than to my brother n laws the car started after about 10sec and it sounded really really bad, he said it sounds like it is about to throw a rod.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    hi Amy. hopefully the dealership can diagnose it for low $.
    From your description, one possibility is that the timing-belt/chain may have "slipped/skipped", resulting in the timing being "way off".
  • piglets2piglets2 Member Posts: 5
    i have a 1999 and a1/2 vw jetta and it has a miss u cant notice it going down the road, but at idel u can definately hear it. check engine light is on and i cant get a code scan tool to uplink to my computer for some reason i need help this is my way back and fourth to college just replaced the cat. converter. and spark plugs, but with out the computer i cant diagnoise anything what do u guys think? about bolth problems
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    piglets2, I think a bad O2 sensor could cause those symptoms. maybe that's a low-$/easy part to swap.
  • piglets2piglets2 Member Posts: 5
    ok i have a 1999 ans 1/2 vw jetta that i just bought and i can not get a code-scanner to uplink to the computer, but the previous owner said that the he had it took to the dealer ship, and they cleared the codes off the computer and when he got it back the radio was taken out. How do i get one to work on my car. dose my after market cd player have to be removed for some reason. what do u guys think? :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    YES... the radio in some VWs participates in the computer-uplink connection. It is often standard-practice to remove any aftermarket radio from VW before reading codes with computer. Infact, some aftermarket radio may burn-out the code-reader due to crossed connections.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Try disconnecting the MAF (MassAirFlow) sensor and drive it like that. The "miss" you are experiencing may go away.

    Disconnecting the MAF sensor forces the computer into "default" mode where most of the settings are forced to nominalized settings. (injection pulsewidth, ignition timing...etc)

    My daughters 2001 had been idling very rough and as soon as I popped the connector from the MAF... it smoothed right out. She has been driving like that for months.

    Also, if you have not cleaned your snowscreen within the past 12 months... do it! It gets dirty very quickly. I clean the snowscreen on all of my VWs at least annually and I am always amazed how plugged-up it is.
  • nitekimnitekim Member Posts: 5
    The spark plugs and wires were replaced less than 2 years ago. I have never had the coil pack replaced though. Some of the codes went away several weeks ago but now I have new codes coming up now in addition to some of the old ones.

    16684
    Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

    16688
    Cyl.4 Misfire Detected

    17950
    Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Range/Performance

    17952
    Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too High

    17953
    Throttle Pos.Contr Malfunction

    I don't really understand what's going on. Some days the car will run fine and other days I think it's going to blow up on me.
  • underthevwhoodunderthevwhood Member Posts: 23
    NiteKim,

    I'm guessing that your Jetta is running reasonably well. How many miles?

    Years ago, I had the #1 spark plug go bad to the point that the engine wouldn't stay running. I think I had every engine code there was to have. Even though I had one bad plug, it tripped all kinds of codes. Plugs do go bad before there time.

    I still say the best place to start is the spark plugs. They are not expensive and are easy to replace. Check out the plug wires for any cuts, rips, holes, ect. Look for a whitish gray coating on the wires. If they are grounding out, you may get this. If you have a multimeter, you can check the resistance of the wires as well. Be VERY careful pulling the wires off the plugs. Best to use a special tool for this.

    I replaced my coil around 90K. Wasn't bad(no codes) but it was getting old. Simple part to replace and don't want to get stuck somewhere because of it.

    There are internal engine parts that can cause misfires, but think that your post would be much different if you had this.

    Tracy
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    This kind of question comes up many times... the answer remains the same.... there is NO WAY that all these components will fail at the same time so you must focus on the ROOT problem. Ask yourself "what single item can cause all of these failures being flagged?"

    There are only about 2 answers;
    1)Poor electrical Power
    2)Poor electrical Ground

    HINT: Remove,clean and tighten EVERY electrical connection you can find under the hood. (disconnect battery 1st)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I agree. This is some kind of bogus connector, corroded pins, bad grounds, damaged harness, etc.
  • piglets2piglets2 Member Posts: 5
    well i know that i have 12 v at the # 16 pin so i have power but here in a couple of days but i dont know what any of the outher pins shoulde read, but i dint kno how to test anything farther than that? thanks :confuse:
  • piglets2piglets2 Member Posts: 5
    ok i pulled the (MAF) sensor off the intake tube and all it did was run worse so that is not it i am leaning towards it being a sensor somewhere on the motor, but at this point i dont know what is wrong. without the computer it is like shooting an arrow at night. :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You said ==> "i pulled the (MAF) sensor off the intake tube "

    I hope you mean that you pulled the ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR from the MAF.... and did not remove the MAF itself from the intake-plenum.

    I know what you mean about shooting in the dark when you do not have a computer. That is why I simply hook up my laptop to my VW and run diagnostics with my VagCom WIth 3 VWs in the family, it paid for itself within a year by saving $50 each time a dealership runs diagnostics (regardless if they actually FIX anything or not)
  • thess02thess02 Member Posts: 32
    The codes you are showing indicate a possible bad throttle position sensor (TPS).
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Before replacing TPS, try re-synchronizing the throttle pedal to the throttlebody. Dont forget that many VWs use "fly-by-wire" throttle body. There is no traditional throttle-cable. Instead, there is a poteometer on the throttle-pedal which sends electronic signal to the throttle-body.

    As I recall, the procedure involves pushing throttle to floor then turning ignition-switch without starting engine. .... there is step-by-step procedure to do that on the internet.
  • dungeonxdungeonx Member Posts: 6
    Ok I have a 96 VW Jetta 2.0 The car was running great and one day Just Stalled and will not start. Checked the Plugs, I Got Spark, Checked the Fuel get Fuel up to the Fuel Pressure Valve. I Changed the Valve. and still No Start. I Checked the Signal to The wires of the Injector and they get Power..
    Can anyone tell me WHAT to Check Next I am Lost.
    Thank you in Advance
    Regards
    MATT
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