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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Well, my point was not the interval, but rather that whether or not you are supposed to replace at 4 years is based on how many miles you drive in 6. It is just bizarre that they don't simply say "replace every 4 years or 40K miles".
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Must have been "lost in translation" - I would like to see that item in German language to see how they orignally translated it into English and then put that in user's handbook English version. Sometimes that pesky German language (especially technical language) is hard to translate precisely. I have done some of those here and there in my lifetime ...
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Maybe you can find a german maintenance schedule here:

    http://www.volkswagen.de/ ;)
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    nope...not there... tried to get into their "blog" pages but even that is only for registered owners and you have to put the VIN number of your car (presumably purchased in Germany) in order to establish an account and be able to login.
    But I will look at one next time I am in Germany or Switzerland (next year, I hope).
    I don't have that many friends and relatives with German cars... most of them have Hondas, Citroens and Skodas... not sure why....
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I just noticed they don't have that language in the vw.com online schedule for 2007 models. It only appears for the 2006. It is also printed in the book for our 2005. VW does not actually let me look up the maintenance schedule for our 2005 on line, as apparently they are unaware that they made a Jetta with a 2.5 engine in the 2005 model year.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    In the MKIV VWs (1999 => 2004 ?) The SNOWSCREEN gets plugged up much more frequently than the air-filter. I clean my SNOWSCREEN at least 2x a year. It is almost completely plugged up every time.

    The snowscreen is a very fine mesh (like pantihose) about the size of the palm of your hand. ALL the air which the engine breathes has to come thru that little screen. It gets totally filled with bugs,fuzz, leaves and other detritus. Once it is plugged, there is a a spring-loaded safety valve which the engine "sucks" upen with intake vacuum to bypass the snowscreen.

    Link to video showing how to clean SNOWSCREEN
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Good advice. Thanks.
  • leftlanekingleftlaneking Member Posts: 2
    ON MISTY LIGHT RAINY DAYS CAR WILL NOT START.I GET CRANK BUT WILL NOT TURN OVER ONLY WHEN LEFT OVER NIGHT.WHEN RAIN STOPS,I DISCONNECT BATTERY AND LEAVE HOOD OPEN TO AIR OUT.TAKES ANY WHERE FROM 15MIN TO AN HOUR TO START,ON RARE OCASIONS A DAY OR TWO DEPENDING ON WEATHER.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    possibly sparkplug wires insulation is degraded resulting in spark shorting to block or other ground.
    one possible way to diagnose that idea is to swap the plug wires.
    another way is to run the engine in a pitch-dark garage, or attempt to start it there. if my theory is correct you would see blue sparks/flashing in the engine compartment, possibly with an OK-running engine, and also in the case where it was damp and was failing to start.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Above advice is spot-on! Your problem is either sparkplug wires or the ignition-coil.

    Another approach is to use spritzer-bottle (Old windex bottle) with water in it. Gently 'mist' various ignition components while engine is idling. When you moisten the "trouble spot" the engine will begin to stumble and idle rough.

    The ignition-coil is quite expensive so you may wish to try to "fix" it in any way you can. If the problem is the coil, sometimes a layer of crud on the coil can cause this kind of problem to happen. You can remove the ignition-coil and wash it it in hot-soapy water (just like doing the dishes). An old toothbrush helps with this. Rinse well and dry it with hairdryer.

    Then inspect the coil for hairline cracks. Anyplace water can get in can cause problems. Some people have had luck with sealing the cracks by working some hi-temp silicone sealant into the cracks and let it cure.

    Before removing ignition-coil, draw yourself a diagram showing which plug wires go where!
  • leftlanekingleftlaneking Member Posts: 2
    THANKS GUYS I WILL TRY NEXT DRY DAY I HAVE.WILL INFORM OF OUT COME.
  • farinofdfarinofd Member Posts: 1
    My daughter was listening to the radio with the car off in my 2002 1.8T Jetta for about a half hour. The battery was dead so I jump started it. Now the EPC code is lit. Will it go out? Thanks!
  • stj1stj1 Member Posts: 2
    At one week had this problem and it repeated a few days later.

    The brake pedal would not depress. The key would turn but the engine did not even try to start. I thought I would have to get towed. Tried one more time pushing hard on the brake a few times. It gave a little and the car started.

    After two days the dealership hasn't been able to repeat problem and has no ideas.

    Could swapping keys be a problem? Maybe something with the anti theft feature.

    At one week do I have the right to ask for another car?

    stj1
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Is it new? If so, depending on State where you live, you could get a new car under the Lemon law....
  • stj1stj1 Member Posts: 2
    Yes it has around 150 miles on it.

    I think Lemon Laws may require 3 instances of the same issue.

    Rather not wait. If they cannot assure this won't keep happning we would like them to replace the car. Don't know where we will get with that.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Each State has a diferent formula - it should be in your glove box brochure, which formula applies to your State. You may be right but I would double check...
  • karmann1karmann1 Member Posts: 1
    would anyone know what causes a rattle going over bumps in my 1996 jetta? It seems as though it comes from the front but can't even be sure...seems to travel! thanks, Anson
  • george567george567 Member Posts: 8
    On the 2010 Jetta 2.5 gas engine you no longer to take the cover off the engine to get at the oil filter. When you remove the splash cover under the engine, the filter
    is located right in front of the oil pan. It's the black plastic housing that can be removed with a regular strap oil filter wrench, no longer uses the 32mm socket. Looks like they actually made it easier to do this. Its been a couple of weeks
    since I was on here so someone may have already put out this info. Looks like
    they actually made it easier.
  • george567george567 Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone know how to disable the Daytime Running Lights so I can turn the lights on just when I need them. Also, how do you disabel the auto locking system on the doors. When you reach, I think, about 10 mph all the doors lock,. Is there a way I can just use the remote or lock it from inside.

    so I can just use the remote or lock it from inside?
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    As far as I know, you cannot disable daytime running lights. Actually, it's a Federal mandated safety feature that all newer vehicles must have it that way.

    Some cars have an additional bulb in the headlight assembly and you could pull that bulb off. But I think VW is using a low beam bulb for that purpose and therefore you cannot disable it.

    You can disable auto-door-locking feature (I have done it on my 09 Jetta Tdi) in your instrument cluster computer. See owner's manual how to do it. It's just a few clicks on your computer control lever next to the steering wheel. Then you can just lock all doors using key remote, once inside and driving, at your leasure.

    You can also change factory default on opening all doors and trunk. The default only opens driver's side door but it can be changed that one click on key remote opens all doors and trunk.

    If you cannot manage it yourself, the Dealer could do it "free of charge".
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    If I remember (I may be wrong) I put a disclaimer in my post that the top has to be removed in order to access the oil filter housing on a Tdi engine. I think the person who asked about it, in one of his previosu posts, had a diesel engine.
    I am not familiar with 2010 gas engine as I don't have that one.
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    The settings for these functions can be changed using VAG-COM or by your dealer. However, I doubt the dealer would deactivate the daytime running lights. Ross-Tech has instructions available on its web site regarding how to change these settings, and others, using VAG-COM.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Door locking features can be changed by using on-board computer. No need for VAG-COM.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I guess I don't understand why anyone would want to disable the auto locking feature? I can not imagine any reason to want your doors to remain unlocked at >10 mph? :confuse:
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    In some geographical areas (or States) it's not a desirable feature. I can't imagine to have that annoying feature on where I live.
    One argument could be, for example, if you plunge your car into a deep water (or get stuck in it) you and your fellow passengers want to exit immediately without looking for unlock door buttons or unable to unlock doors when elec. power is off....my friend lost his life in Phoenix, AZ that way, when he got stuck in a deep water...(flash flooded streets intersection) and couldn't unlock door having that "wonderful auto-lock feature".
    It's a matter of personal preference and therefore car manufacturers make it so that one can disable it.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    That is a pretty rare occurrence to be worrying about. In any case, my understanding is you can not count on opening doors when you are underwater anyway, due the water pressure...aren't you supposed to open the windows in order to get out? If you can not get the windows down you are supposed to kick out the windshield.

    Besides that, in the Jetta you do not have to press the door unlock button first anyway do you? You just pull the door open lever and open the door. (IIRC, the default setting required two pulls on the door opening lever to unlock and open, we had the dealer change that so it just opens on the first pull when locked???) I'm not really sure as we also had the dealer set it so all doors automatically unlock when the key is removed.

    My understanding is locked doors are safer in a collision and you are making your car less safe by driving with unlocked doors.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I took a course few years back in Stockholm, Sweden (conducted by SAAB in Sweden) what to do, if you fall in the water from one of those elevated freeways in Stockholm. The proper way (over there) is to wait until the water reaches the level of your mouth or nose and then push the door open. At that time there is not much water pressure difference. Braking window may cause water rush inside the car and may cause more harm than good!

    Same as when an airplane ditches in the water - you do not start braking windows!

    I prefer not to have auto-door lock feature on. If it would be safer, why then VW has it designed so that it can be disabled?

    Your understanding about locked doors is similar to wearing seat belts. In some instances, lives are saved, when seat belts are not worn - also a rare occurence. This arguments can go on and on.

    Your points are well taken but I just wanted to voice my opinion that may be shared by others.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Just wanted to add (with regards to seat belts) ..

    Few years back there were some vehicles that had the auto-seat belts feature - that did not fly well with the public and wearing seat belts are again up to the driver and passenger to use them or not.

    Similarity with auto-door lock feature is obvious (at least in my opinion).
  • christoph32780christoph32780 Member Posts: 1
    My power steering is out on my 2005.5 Jetta. I woke up this morning got in my car to drive and there was nothing no power steering. I also noticed the light is on to. Previous to this I haven't heard or had any indication to a problem. I looked for the fluid and there isn't any. I found out it is electric . I need help from someone who has had the problem or who is a mech. PLEASE HELP!
  • dp2226dp2226 Member Posts: 28
    New plugs, wires, ignition coil, and ECT.

    Here are the specific codes

    PO351, PO352,PO353,PO354 -I believe corresponds to each of the connections to igintion coil, slots A-D.

    Presently slot A has plug 1, B -2, C-3, D-4

    The last code is PO302 which is misfire cylinder 2

    I also think after a long drive the converter is getting hot, sounds like it is cooling down from a really hi tempature. Making a loud click sound then what I ever recalled. Does not appear to be glowing red.

    Also noticed the coolant the level was a little low again even after I topped it off a couple weeks ago. No leaks, water pump and thermostat are new, not over heating. Engine compression is fine.

    Test the O2 sensors last night. Both were putting out .40-.45.

    Tried unplugging the MAF sensor from some advice, did not notice any major difference

    Out of ideas.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    So you have the 2.5L engine with BGP or BGQ vin codes? If so, yes you have electromagnetic steering and you'll have to have the trouble codes read to figure out what's wrong. You can't diagnose it without a computer scan.

    If you have the 2.0L motor then you have a different system that does use fluid.
  • dp2226dp2226 Member Posts: 28
    Was also wondering if a bad pulley could be the cause. Looks worn but still seems to spin properly even on a cold start early moring
  • surfwaxsurfwax Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Jetta with a CEL. The DTC codes it gave me are P0420, P0321, P0301, P0201. The first code refers to the Cat running "below threshold", but the last 3 appear to point towards a cylinder 1 misfire. Has anyone seen these codes on a 2001 Jetta? Is there a common issue or does anyone have recommendations on how I could troubleshoot this issue on my own? I'm a bit handy with vehicles, but I'm no mechanic (far from it). Thanks for any help you can provide.
  • dp2226dp2226 Member Posts: 28
    The pully was fine, once I was able to get it out and look closely.

    I have the car at Monroe right now who started to review the problem initally. They want to replace my new ignition coil I replaced myself with another new ignition coil and charge me $400. I am going to put the old one back in and see if I can clear the codes. Also may contact the manufacturer for a warranty claim to get replaced.

    Any other ideas out there where the next step would be for codes PO351-PO354 saying there is a primary or secondary issue with the ignition coil.
  • 99wolfsburg99wolfsburg Member Posts: 4
    I have a 99 1.8l jetta. Will not start cold until I give it a shot of starter fluid in the air intake. Is there a cold start selinoid on the car. my manual does not describe one. Oh after starting and warmed up can be turned off and started up no problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might want to check the fuel pressure regulator. If it is defective, your fuel pressure will bleed down overnight, meaning that the fuel pump has to re-pressurize the entire fuel rail before the car will start. Once started, the car will usually start during the day, if not left for too long. A fuel pressure gauge with a "T" fitting on a cold engine should tell the story. On some fuel pressure regulators, you can pull off the vacuum line, and if there's fuel in it, it's dead.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    When l used to start a gasoline car in real sub-zero temperatures (Yukon, Alberta, Alaska) , I used to either warm up the air intake (by blowing a hair dryer hot air into the air intake) or, with older american cars, I took the round air filter assembly inside the house, put it in the oven and then with cooking insulated gloves, I would put it back on the top of the engine.

    I had a hair dryer that I would plug into a cigarette lighter for that reason.

    In both cases the cars started like a charm.

    I Europe, when I was in the Army, (heavy diesel trucks) we used to make a small fire under the car and that would warm up the engine from the bottom up. We copied the Russians that used to do it out there in tundra (Vladivostok area).
    I don't recommend that here in the U.S. though.
    But then again they have beaten Americans by launching the Sputnik so why not...

    Some cars have an air intake heater (a small spiral in the air intake assembly) that warms the air up in cold starts (like older Range/Land Rovers). It glows red hot and car takes a warm air breath inside the manifold.

    Not sure what Jetta gasser has in there...

    HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I beleive the 1.8L uses a "5th injector" to enrichen the mixture when engine is cold. If the ECT (Engine Coolant Temparture) sensor is malfunctioning, then the computer would not "know" that the engine was cold and needs extra fuel.

    Make certain you do the following for a cold start.
    1) NEVER EVER touch the throttle pedal
    2) Turn key to 'run' and allow fuel-pump to run till it stops (DO NOT START ENGINE)
    3) Now turn the key to "start" to crank the engine.

    #2 above allows time for the fuel-pressure to build up to proper level before you crank the engine. If you listen carefully, you will hear the fuel pump run for several seconds when you first trun the key to 'run' position. It is located INSIDE the gastank at the rear of the vechcle.
  • gwentergwenter Member Posts: 1
    My son's 95 Jetta, GLS III with a 2.0 engine is giving me fits. The engine oil indicator and accompanying beeper is displayed on the dash. How do I access fault codes w/o a diagnostic hook-up, or maybe better yet, where is the connector located? What will cause this fault code? Thanks
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Sounds like you talking about the low oil pressure light and alarm??? I don't think there'd be any diagnostic codes.
  • jetta11jetta11 Member Posts: 1
    2.0,4 cyl jetta,oil has anitfreeze in it. not overheating,does anyone know if this is common ? do u think its head gasket? any ideas ?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    There is no "diagnostic code" needed.... you KNOW that the OP (oil-pressure) is being sensed as low.

    Your next step is to Use external pressure-guage to validate that OP is truly low.
    1) If not, replace OP sensor(s)
    2) If OP is low, DO NOT DRIVE CAR! (expensive damage may occour)

    Oil-pump may be weak... but there may just be sludge in oil-passageways that can be cleaned out.

    Change oil (use correct 5W30 !) and filter (Put some STP oil-treatment in when you change it.) This will enhance the viscosity and add xtra detergents. Hopefully, this will clean the goop out of the engine. You may need to change oil again within 500 miles to drain the gunk out.

    If the above does not help.... consider changing oil-pump. Have professional look at it because there may already be engine-damage if it has been driven with low OP.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Doesn't VW specify 5 or 10W-40? Using the lower viscosity 5w-30 oil may make the problem worse.

    Engine wear can also cause low oil pressure. Using higher viscosity oil can help keep the oil pressure light and alarm from going off. When my son was having this problem and getting conflicting diagnoses of the cause (bad oil pump or engine wear), he used 20W-50 for a while during the summer. We also thought about mixing in some heavy oil, like 50 or 60 weight, with the rest being 5 or 10W -40, as I had read that that is really all these "viscosity enhancers" really are is some single grade heavier oil. Never tried it as replacing his oil pump seemed to solve the problem.
  • 99wolfsburg99wolfsburg Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice. I use the starting proceedures you have indicated still no go. The vehicle is not cold cold but after it sits it wont start so the chap who figures it may be the pressure regulator (fuel drain back) may have the answer even though the fuel pump is working the way it should. The temp sensor works as when the car warms up it indicates a temperature on the gauge. Thanks
  • muratarummuratarum Member Posts: 5
    I have several white patches on my 2007 silver jetta probably because of sunscreen lotion. They seem to be resistant to normal washing and the dealer can not say how to remove them. Any suggestions will be appreciated...
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Try Meguiars scratch X or Nu-Finish polish - I have had a good experience with those two removing sun baked in bird droppings. It appears that your clearcoat might have been penetrated by the sun screen lotion. If that fails, have a reputable body shop buffed it out.

    Dealers normally have the body or paint repairs subcontracted out to independent body shops.
    Alternatively, ask any M. Benz/BMW or Lexus dealer, which body shop they use and have that body shop fix it.
  • paulanthonydfwpaulanthonydfw Member Posts: 6
    I seem to be having quite a few light bulbs going out on this car from a headlight to taillights and now I have a led light that keeps burning out on the 3rd brakelight. Everytime I take it to the dealer to replace it the light seems to be working. They even showed me, but when i got the car home it was out again. it's under warranty so I will keep going back I guess. Not trying to nitpick, but I don't lke burned out lights on my car
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The local constabulary does not like burned-out lightbulbs either... they will gleefully give you a ticket for such.

    Upun hearing complaint of MULTIPLE burned-out bulbs, a good mechanic should consider the voltage is not being properly regulated. They would also check the voltage regulator and also snug up all electrical-connections to/from the regulator. Also the battery-connections and the Ground to the engine should be checked/snugged.

    On the other hand, bulbs that tend to go out and come back can be a different problem besides voltage-regulation. I have seen the sockets which the bulbs plug into be 'flakey' and have intermittent contact.

    Sometimes, the filiment within the bulb can be broken but waving around within the bulb.... sometimes they may make contact and light up.... drive over a bump and they will loose contact and go out. In this case, REPLACE THE BULB.

    The LEDs on the 3rd brake lightbar are SOLDERD in and very unlikely to individually have problems. (Unless solder connections are poor.)
  • ndmike88ndmike88 Member Posts: 155
    3M liquid rubbing or polishing compound followed by several coats of RejeX.
  • belaircarguybelaircarguy Member Posts: 107
    If you have antifreeze in your oil, don't drive this car any further. This is most likely a head gasket failure. If you continue to drive, the oil will 'run out', and only antifreeze in the engine as a lubricant. This will cause major damage. A quick check is to start the engine. If you get white smoke, it is the antifreeze burning up (like steam). I would take this to your trusted mechanic (tow it there).

    If you cause major engine damage with blown head gaskets, you are looking a several thousands in repair, depending on the damage.

    Bel Air Car Guy.
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