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http://www.volkswagen.de/
But I will look at one next time I am in Germany or Switzerland (next year, I hope).
I don't have that many friends and relatives with German cars... most of them have Hondas, Citroens and Skodas... not sure why....
The snowscreen is a very fine mesh (like pantihose) about the size of the palm of your hand. ALL the air which the engine breathes has to come thru that little screen. It gets totally filled with bugs,fuzz, leaves and other detritus. Once it is plugged, there is a a spring-loaded safety valve which the engine "sucks" upen with intake vacuum to bypass the snowscreen.
Link to video showing how to clean SNOWSCREEN
one possible way to diagnose that idea is to swap the plug wires.
another way is to run the engine in a pitch-dark garage, or attempt to start it there. if my theory is correct you would see blue sparks/flashing in the engine compartment, possibly with an OK-running engine, and also in the case where it was damp and was failing to start.
Another approach is to use spritzer-bottle (Old windex bottle) with water in it. Gently 'mist' various ignition components while engine is idling. When you moisten the "trouble spot" the engine will begin to stumble and idle rough.
The ignition-coil is quite expensive so you may wish to try to "fix" it in any way you can. If the problem is the coil, sometimes a layer of crud on the coil can cause this kind of problem to happen. You can remove the ignition-coil and wash it it in hot-soapy water (just like doing the dishes). An old toothbrush helps with this. Rinse well and dry it with hairdryer.
Then inspect the coil for hairline cracks. Anyplace water can get in can cause problems. Some people have had luck with sealing the cracks by working some hi-temp silicone sealant into the cracks and let it cure.
Before removing ignition-coil, draw yourself a diagram showing which plug wires go where!
The brake pedal would not depress. The key would turn but the engine did not even try to start. I thought I would have to get towed. Tried one more time pushing hard on the brake a few times. It gave a little and the car started.
After two days the dealership hasn't been able to repeat problem and has no ideas.
Could swapping keys be a problem? Maybe something with the anti theft feature.
At one week do I have the right to ask for another car?
stj1
I think Lemon Laws may require 3 instances of the same issue.
Rather not wait. If they cannot assure this won't keep happning we would like them to replace the car. Don't know where we will get with that.
is located right in front of the oil pan. It's the black plastic housing that can be removed with a regular strap oil filter wrench, no longer uses the 32mm socket. Looks like they actually made it easier to do this. Its been a couple of weeks
since I was on here so someone may have already put out this info. Looks like
they actually made it easier.
so I can just use the remote or lock it from inside?
Some cars have an additional bulb in the headlight assembly and you could pull that bulb off. But I think VW is using a low beam bulb for that purpose and therefore you cannot disable it.
You can disable auto-door-locking feature (I have done it on my 09 Jetta Tdi) in your instrument cluster computer. See owner's manual how to do it. It's just a few clicks on your computer control lever next to the steering wheel. Then you can just lock all doors using key remote, once inside and driving, at your leasure.
You can also change factory default on opening all doors and trunk. The default only opens driver's side door but it can be changed that one click on key remote opens all doors and trunk.
If you cannot manage it yourself, the Dealer could do it "free of charge".
I am not familiar with 2010 gas engine as I don't have that one.
One argument could be, for example, if you plunge your car into a deep water (or get stuck in it) you and your fellow passengers want to exit immediately without looking for unlock door buttons or unable to unlock doors when elec. power is off....my friend lost his life in Phoenix, AZ that way, when he got stuck in a deep water...(flash flooded streets intersection) and couldn't unlock door having that "wonderful auto-lock feature".
It's a matter of personal preference and therefore car manufacturers make it so that one can disable it.
Besides that, in the Jetta you do not have to press the door unlock button first anyway do you? You just pull the door open lever and open the door. (IIRC, the default setting required two pulls on the door opening lever to unlock and open, we had the dealer change that so it just opens on the first pull when locked???) I'm not really sure as we also had the dealer set it so all doors automatically unlock when the key is removed.
My understanding is locked doors are safer in a collision and you are making your car less safe by driving with unlocked doors.
Same as when an airplane ditches in the water - you do not start braking windows!
I prefer not to have auto-door lock feature on. If it would be safer, why then VW has it designed so that it can be disabled?
Your understanding about locked doors is similar to wearing seat belts. In some instances, lives are saved, when seat belts are not worn - also a rare occurence. This arguments can go on and on.
Your points are well taken but I just wanted to voice my opinion that may be shared by others.
Few years back there were some vehicles that had the auto-seat belts feature - that did not fly well with the public and wearing seat belts are again up to the driver and passenger to use them or not.
Similarity with auto-door lock feature is obvious (at least in my opinion).
Here are the specific codes
PO351, PO352,PO353,PO354 -I believe corresponds to each of the connections to igintion coil, slots A-D.
Presently slot A has plug 1, B -2, C-3, D-4
The last code is PO302 which is misfire cylinder 2
I also think after a long drive the converter is getting hot, sounds like it is cooling down from a really hi tempature. Making a loud click sound then what I ever recalled. Does not appear to be glowing red.
Also noticed the coolant the level was a little low again even after I topped it off a couple weeks ago. No leaks, water pump and thermostat are new, not over heating. Engine compression is fine.
Test the O2 sensors last night. Both were putting out .40-.45.
Tried unplugging the MAF sensor from some advice, did not notice any major difference
Out of ideas.
If you have the 2.0L motor then you have a different system that does use fluid.
I have the car at Monroe right now who started to review the problem initally. They want to replace my new ignition coil I replaced myself with another new ignition coil and charge me $400. I am going to put the old one back in and see if I can clear the codes. Also may contact the manufacturer for a warranty claim to get replaced.
Any other ideas out there where the next step would be for codes PO351-PO354 saying there is a primary or secondary issue with the ignition coil.
I had a hair dryer that I would plug into a cigarette lighter for that reason.
In both cases the cars started like a charm.
I Europe, when I was in the Army, (heavy diesel trucks) we used to make a small fire under the car and that would warm up the engine from the bottom up. We copied the Russians that used to do it out there in tundra (Vladivostok area).
I don't recommend that here in the U.S. though.
But then again they have beaten Americans by launching the Sputnik so why not...
Some cars have an air intake heater (a small spiral in the air intake assembly) that warms the air up in cold starts (like older Range/Land Rovers). It glows red hot and car takes a warm air breath inside the manifold.
Not sure what Jetta gasser has in there...
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
Make certain you do the following for a cold start.
1) NEVER EVER touch the throttle pedal
2) Turn key to 'run' and allow fuel-pump to run till it stops (DO NOT START ENGINE)
3) Now turn the key to "start" to crank the engine.
#2 above allows time for the fuel-pressure to build up to proper level before you crank the engine. If you listen carefully, you will hear the fuel pump run for several seconds when you first trun the key to 'run' position. It is located INSIDE the gastank at the rear of the vechcle.
Your next step is to Use external pressure-guage to validate that OP is truly low.
1) If not, replace OP sensor(s)
2) If OP is low, DO NOT DRIVE CAR! (expensive damage may occour)
Oil-pump may be weak... but there may just be sludge in oil-passageways that can be cleaned out.
Change oil (use correct 5W30 !) and filter (Put some STP oil-treatment in when you change it.) This will enhance the viscosity and add xtra detergents. Hopefully, this will clean the goop out of the engine. You may need to change oil again within 500 miles to drain the gunk out.
If the above does not help.... consider changing oil-pump. Have professional look at it because there may already be engine-damage if it has been driven with low OP.
Engine wear can also cause low oil pressure. Using higher viscosity oil can help keep the oil pressure light and alarm from going off. When my son was having this problem and getting conflicting diagnoses of the cause (bad oil pump or engine wear), he used 20W-50 for a while during the summer. We also thought about mixing in some heavy oil, like 50 or 60 weight, with the rest being 5 or 10W -40, as I had read that that is really all these "viscosity enhancers" really are is some single grade heavier oil. Never tried it as replacing his oil pump seemed to solve the problem.
Dealers normally have the body or paint repairs subcontracted out to independent body shops.
Alternatively, ask any M. Benz/BMW or Lexus dealer, which body shop they use and have that body shop fix it.
Upun hearing complaint of MULTIPLE burned-out bulbs, a good mechanic should consider the voltage is not being properly regulated. They would also check the voltage regulator and also snug up all electrical-connections to/from the regulator. Also the battery-connections and the Ground to the engine should be checked/snugged.
On the other hand, bulbs that tend to go out and come back can be a different problem besides voltage-regulation. I have seen the sockets which the bulbs plug into be 'flakey' and have intermittent contact.
Sometimes, the filiment within the bulb can be broken but waving around within the bulb.... sometimes they may make contact and light up.... drive over a bump and they will loose contact and go out. In this case, REPLACE THE BULB.
The LEDs on the 3rd brake lightbar are SOLDERD in and very unlikely to individually have problems. (Unless solder connections are poor.)
If you cause major engine damage with blown head gaskets, you are looking a several thousands in repair, depending on the damage.
Bel Air Car Guy.