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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Some owner's manuals (not just maintenance schedule booklets) have initial dealer's stamp with delivery date, VIN number along with the initial owner's data in it...some (used) cars go through auctions and the auctinoneers will remove everything from glove boxes, including radio codes, etc. Oh well...

    "Obvious" means that the buyer cannot contact the trade in person and find out how much the dealer gave him/her as a trade in which could be used by the new buyer to bring the price down.

    You can get copies of owners manuals on the web, as you've pointed out, both in electronic versions as well as print outs.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    The last time I bought a new car (not very recently! :blush:) the salesguy had put my name and address, as well as his name and phone number of course, in my manual before I ever saw it.
  • Have an 02 4 cyl turbo that broke cam key. Cams are now out of time. How to retime cams. Appears the rear chain has to come appart?? please advise. Will try to do the repair at home
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Yes, I get that it is obvious the dealer would not want anything showing who the previous owner was. What was not obvious to me before was that the owners manual would fall into that category.

    Now that the mystery of the disappearing owner's manuals has been explained, I guess I'll ask the dealer to provide me with one if I ever buy another used car. Especially if it is a VW, since they are one of the few that, obnoxiously, do not provide free electronic versions.

    http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/120189/article.html
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Yes - do ask them. If anything, they can get one for you and pay for it from the profit of selling you the car.
    Any decent dealer should do it - but - then again, if you don't do it right there and then (when signing the docs), they may just say "deal is a deal" and walk away. Normally, if you don't ask for it right away and they don't make it part of the deal, it's hard to get anything from them afterwards.
    For example, I always ask for a touch up paint, before I sign the docs. Then they have to get it for you later even if it's not in stock.
    The only leverage you may have is if you will be servicing your car at that dealership, they may get it for you as a good will gesture.
    Good luck!
  • Can you give me a web address for the Mazda manuals online?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Are you aware that some sates (Such as Pennsylvania) it is the LAW that the dealer must disclose the previous owners name and phone-number.

    The intent is that a potential buyer can call the previous owner and ask about the car.... they have nothing to lose so they will tell you all the "gory details" about the car.
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    In general, used car sales are subject to FTC Rules and Regulations (not State).
    You can find more details at:
    Federal Trade Commission.
    16 CFR Part 455
    Trade Regulation Rule; Sale of Used Motor Vehicles
    53 FR 17660
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    You'll need a detailed factory workshop manual to do this correctly, (Bentley's) or an instructional DVD. It's not something we can easily teach you without diagrams, a special tool list, part #s, torque specs, etc. Given that the consequences of screwing this up are severe, you should have print material in front of you, IMO.

    Bentley Manuals for VW

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Pass, these cars are horrible! my car started giving me problems at 10k, rear brakes, remote control not working, defective tires from the moment I've bought it. Believe people when they tell you that this car gives you problems!
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,923
    thanks for passing along your deep insights, "badjetta07".
    don't you know that "bad" actually means *good* now?

    how many days was car unavailable/in-shop?
    please give an example of a major problem if you want us to believe you?
    (seems like there are lots of lying liar trolls in the forums lately who make postings similar to yours.)

    "rear brakes" - what problem? was it not fixed efficiently?
    remote-control not working - the key-fob you mean? did the 2nd one work? was it not fixed efficiently?
    and tires?! was a tire defective? did that cause many/any shop-days?
  • How about the fact that the timing belts on the 1.8L Turbo engines keep breaking long before the factory recommend "check" mileage...which completely trashes the engines and leaves the owners stranded on the side of the road. Is that enough of a reason for you? VW will do/has done nothing about this problem. Terrible product.
  • sn7744sn7744 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 jetta 2.0 AEG engine that needs the block replaced. I can't find an AEG engine for a reasonable price. Does anyone know if I get a different 2.0 engine code from like a 2001-2002 jetta, can I use just the block and transfer everything else over? I have called various VW places and I keep getting different answers. Any suggestions?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I assume that your research has revealed to you that in 2000, VW had 2 different 2.0 engines-codes. (AEG and AZG ?) As I recall, one of the big differences between the 2 engines was that one of them had a throttle-cable and the other has "drive by wire". (I beleive one was in German-built cars and the other was in Mexico-assembled vehicles. )

    This webpage may help you out.

    DIsclaimer: I suspect that you may be "breaking the emmissions laws" by installing an engine which was not in there from the factory.

    I bet you would LOVE to find something like this

    Have you tried PARTSTRAIN? They are the most complete network of used parts I have ever found.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,923
    hello wtk night one.
    YES an early timing-belt-change requirement is a reason why I would avoid a particular new vehicle. Currently i am shopping for a used/first car for 16 year old and its a big consideration there too.

    imho the timingbelt interval should be 100k minimum.

    I hadn't heard of early-belt-breakage issue with the 1.8L, but I did hear of oil-sludging issues, with possibly a new requirement for synthetic oil for used 1.8L owners.

    I've heard of the belts breaking when they aren't swapped in time, or if the car is parked/stored and belt dries out.
    My jetta TDI wants a belt at 80K but I'm going for 90K! Living on the edge!
  • At least 10 people have emailed me since I initially posted my request for the timing belt breaking issue. All of them have suffered the same fate - belt breaks (long before the 105K recommended) and their engine was trashed. VW has done nothing.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    That certainly makes a lot of sense ;) ...risk destroying your engine to get an extra 10K mi out of a timing belt. :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    you said ==> "My jetta TDI wants a belt at 80K but I'm going for 90K! Living on the edge! "

    Dont forget that you can order up a 100K mile "kit" for your TDI and make your next change-interval 100K miles!

    Here is one example

    Another example

    yet another

    And my favorite place to get TDI parts

    Whatever you do.... do not try to save a few dollars by NOT replacing one of the supplied items in the "kit". Your existing components WILL NOT survive for another 100K miles if you leave them in there. For example, if you chose to not replace an idler-rollers, when it fails, it will take out your new belt and the engine with it. Another example, if you try to reuse one of the "must replace" stretch-bolts... it will not properly tension and your engine may fall out from under the car.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I agree with you concern... most people dont realize that it is not the BELT itself that is rated for 40K, 60K or 80K in the older TDIs. The belt-itself in the 100K kits is identicial... it is actually some of the other moving components like bearings within the rollers and tensioner which may not go the distance.

    How was this determined? Some folks decided to order-up an older kit and the 100K kit from the factory and inspect the components. (Such as DieselGeek link above) Then they proceded to hand-select even better components to include in their "kit".

    Also, The factory 100K parts use a PLASTIC waterpump. The hand-selected "kits" contain a BRASS waterpump. For this reason, the "kits" which are not from VW are actually BETTER than the 100K factory components.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,923
    thanks for all the timingbelt info, folks.
    my 06 TDI has 87k now and runs like a top, but indeed I'll be scheduling the "80k" new-timing-belt/new-waterpump real soon... if the engine gets destroyed in the meantime i will report back here for sure.
  • Does anyone have instructions to replace
    1999 jetta replace seats cup holder and glove box

    JCF
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    At 10,575 miles my rear right door would not lock or unlock either with keychain FOB nor with manual switch on the door. Took my car to the VW dealer and the rear door lock remote module was found defective. Since this is not a "common" failure, part wasn't in stock. VW dealer had to special order it: P/N 3B4-839-016-AP
  • Having 40k+ miles my 06 Jetta is due for a thorough checkup like changing plugs all kinds of filters which will all cost over $500. Is it possible to do most of this myself or should this first major checkup be done by them. And is synthetic oil necessary in these automobiles?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Only certain synthetics meet the VW specs. Using conventional oil really does not save anything anyway, since you would presumably want to change it twice as often.

    I believe 40K is spark plugs, air filter, cabin filter, tire rotation and an oil change. There are also a bunch of inspect/check items. You may also be due for changing brake fluid. There is also a scan of the computer listed, but I don't know that there is much point to that as any problems should presumably turn on a warning light? Ours had CEL on just before the 40K/4 year point and I asked the service rep if the scan they do for that is the same as the one included in their package and he said it was. So I did not bother paying for that a few months later.

    I would think you could find a dealer (or an independent shop that knows what they are doing) to to do that stuff for less than $500.

    Now that there is no warranty to worry about, I planning to stretch my brake fluid changes to every 3 years, instead of 2. I think that will be often enough in my climate. I also will stretch out the cabin filter replacement interval to at least 3 years.
  • kvw2kvw2 Posts: 1
    I have a Jetta 1992:GL; 4 Cyl 1.8L; "GAS, FI 8 Valve with a bad Idle Air Control Valve.

    Question - Should I bite the bullet and pay new or continue my search for a used part? Can the valve be rebuilt at a lower cost?

    Autozone has a new one for $209 and other internet sites have prices from $198 to $250. I've had one quote for a used part for about $100...

    I'm disabled and on a budget so because of the cost, I tried getting another one from a junkyard but the engine started revving on it's own after a few minutes of idle time so I took it back and can't find anymore used ones locally.

    I was told that any 1990 to 1992 part from a Jetta or Golf would work but still can't find any of those parts locally either. I tried an internet part search and wound up getting quotes for mass air flow meters instead but two quotes came in at about $100... better anyway...

    I'm also a bit confused by some internet sites stating that my Jetta (a Vin G) is made in Mexico and thus requires a more expensive part but I think they are confusing that with the Mass Air Flow Meter???

    Thanks...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The very best place for USED parts is CarPart . com

    You can search nationwide for just the part you need.
  • I have the same problem on my 06 Jetta. But I am about to have the switch replaced(out of my pocket of course)! What botherS me is that when I took it to VW to determine the problem, they never even considered the fact that the brake lights remaining on could be that brake light switch that they had a recall on! Hopefully the switch replacement will help!
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,205
    edited February 2010
    You and jeffyscott seem to very knowledgeable about Jettas, so I would appreciate answers to the following questions, please:

    1. My daughter has an '02 Jetta with the 2.0 engine and manual transmission, with 60,000 miles. When should the timing belt be changed? I believe the Owners Manual specifies at 105,000 miles. She currently drives about 5,000 miles per year.

    2. The coolant has never been changed. If I'm interpreting the Owners Manual correctly, it never needs to be changed, but never is a long time. What do you suggest regarding the coolant?

    Finally, I'm considering purchasing a new Jetta 2.5. Does this engine have a timing belt or chain? Is this a durable engine, or is it problematic.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    edited February 2010
    For the timing belt, I don't know what the owners manual says, but it appears that Gates suggests 60K, FWIW: http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2256&location_id=3487

    and on vw.com's schedule, all I see is a check every 40K mi, but not sure how much "checking" can be really done without doing most of the labor that would be required for a replacement anyway:
    http://www.vw.com/myvw/yourcar/maintenance/findschedules/en/us/

    I'm not sure what I'll do with the coolant in our 2.5 as that also does not specify any changes. My Mazda specifies 10 years, 120K mi, so I'll probably go at least that long with the VW.

    The 2.5 has a timing chain. It has been a reliable car according to CR, they give it "average" rating for expected reliability. I can not say that about our particular early build 2005...at least everything has been covered under warranty or recall's for us, so far.
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