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Alternatively, you can go to any auto body shop and ask them who does their roof lining replacements.
Since this is a very specialized job (using the correct glue, etc.etc.) most likely even the car body shop would have this subcontracted to car upholstery shop.
Car upholstery not only does seats but also roof linings, rag convertible top replacements, etc.
This is not that un-common as you say and I would not that they use "cheap" stuff. The roof lining is usually thoroughly tested in climates like Arizona, where most cars have their prototype proving grounds and shops.
I specifically know for example that Saab has one out there and they let cars sit on Arizona sun for one year with various mirrors directed at the car and in 1 year they can duplicate 10, 15 to 20 years of sun and heat exposure.
In some climates you have to do that once or twice a car's lifetime, depending how long you own a car, relative humidity and other factors.
Since you inform us it is a small area.
Read directions and carefully apply as stated.
Have used the products and they work as stated.
The car is a '02 Jetta 2.0 (non-turbo), with 62,000 miles. My interpretation of the Owners Manual is that you never need to replace the anti-freeze. Can any coolant be good at this age and mileage? Since we want to keep the car, would it be wise to drain or flush and replace the anti-freeze? It's the original that came from the factory, and I'm concerned about being penny wise and pound foolish..
i do not have solid evidence to back up that recommendation however, and I think my 06 jetta has 101k right now on its factory coolant ! I plan to replace the coolant at the 5 year mark if I can't find evidence it's been replaced before.
I do live in Tennessee, where we can have pretty extreme temperature swings from summer to winter, and then even during one day in the spring and fall. It is not uncommon here for nighttime temps in the spring to be in the 40s, with daytime temps in the 80s. I was told that such temperature swings can cause the adhesive to deteriorate much more quickly, especially if a car is left outside all the time (as mine is - I do not have a garage).
Hope this helps!
Thanks in advance.
Anwyay, I can't imagine octane could be related to a "thunk in the trunk".
Sounds like it's gotta be related to fuel pump, but I've never heard of one "clunking" before.
Another possibility - could it be an exhaust piece rattling/banging around - maybe one of those "exhaust pipe hangers" has broken?
Does your owners manual say a certain octane is required? If so, don't use a lower octane. If it says "recommended 91+" that means any octane down to 87 should be fine.
Please tell us the error code that the check-engine light is indicating.
A fuel pump can last for the life of a vehicle, but they can fail randomly too.
Some fuel pumps are cooled by the gasoline itself - so if the tank runs dry - that can ruin a fuel pump.
NO a fuel additive like "STP" is not necessary. But it's safe.
You need to "take charge" and TELL them what you want them to do. You should use the owners-manual as a reference for what the manufacturer recommends. TB inspections are part of the VW recomendations.
Using the owners-manual as a guide, simply write down a list of items you want them to do and show them the list when you get there. That way, there is no ambiguity in what you expect them to do and what you expect to pay for.
On the other hand, it is strongly NOT recommended that you tell them somthing like "Do a 40 thousand mile service".... They will see dollar-signs and likely charge you for all kinds of stuff NOT in the owners-manual recommended list.
Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter
Replace Air Cleaner Filter
Rotate Wheels Front to Rear
Check & Adjust Headlights
Replace Dust & Pollen Filter (where applicable)
On-Board Diagnostic System – Check Memory
Which to me, seems like it should cost about $200, plus whatever the diagnostic scan costs (which I don't know if that is necessary...doesn't a light go on if there is some problem?).
The inspect and check stuff, seems like mostly things that are typically just routinely looked while they have you car, so that they can tell you if they find there is additional work they might do.
You may be a car-hypochondriac like me!
The thud could be the sound of anything hot contracting. Or heating up.
Those clicky-click sounds as the car cools off are similarly normal.
The check-engine code should be able to specifically indicate whether it is O2 sensor or fuel-cap/evap-system leak. Neither is critical but each of those problems causes extra pollution. Ignition coil? Nah. Check-engine light is specifically/mostly for emissions/pollution-related stuff.
Fuel system evap leaks are difficult to track down. mechanic with smoke-machine can do it quickest.
No way will any "Seafoam" or any other fuel additive fix any significant problem or any symptom/issue you are reporting.
In my experience, O2 sensors are expected to fail anywhere around 75k-150k. they are not too much $ to swap.
cheers,
/e
The check engine light illuminates only after a certain threshold of repeated/stored codes/conditions/counts is exceeded.
If the condition which illuminated the light disappears for the next N startups/runs, then the light will be turned off.
You are right to be wary about added injector cleaner. All modern gasolines contain cleaners/detergents already - each refiner/distributor is required to use the same cleaners/degergents in the same ratios in all their different grades of gas.
If fuel injectors are clogged, the fuel additive can maybe a tiny bit, but mostly it is a placebo..
The real fix for clogged injectors is to have them high-pressure-cleaned outside the car - that has a cointoss chance of fixing them.
If that doesn't work, then the only fix is to replace them. ($).
Injectors don't last forever, but out of ~30 cars, only had to have them replaced on a 1989 camaro that had all 8 swapped under warranty like most 1989 TPI camaros.
(I have never personally had to have injectors pressure-cleaned outside the car, except i think maybe the dealer had tried that on that one camaro before swapping them.)
Purpose of O2 sensor(s) is for ECM to adjust fuel/air mixture for optimal burn for both mpg and pollution. So yes you are essentially correct about their purpose. Some engines have many O2 sensors, both before & after the catalytic converter.
cheers !
http://www.vw.com/myvw/yourcar/maintenance/en/us/
Let me do the math.... 4 sparkplugs at $2 each = $8
Even if a moron installed them for the first time in his life, it should not take any more than 30 minutes. Dealerships charge about $70/hour so that would be about $35
$35 + $8 = $43 to replace the sparkplugs!
Personally, I do that easy stuff myself. Just today, I replaced the fuel-filter on my wifes Jetta TDI. (she purchased the filter for under $40 while she was out doing errands today.)
There are no sparkplugs on my wifes Jetta.
--------
On the other hand, a timing-belt replacement (including the waterpump, accessory-belt, pullies, tensionors, seals and must-replace bolts) may cost $350 for just the parts. An experienced mechanic would take about 4 hours to do the job properly. Expect to pay over $600 for a TB replacement.
Also I don't think they put in $2 lawn mower spark plugs. The platinum OEM plugs for the 2.5 engine are $13.55 each at germanautoparts.com, 5 plugs at that price would be nearly $70. Dealer labor rate is about $100 per hour.
edit: Checked my receipt, I was charged $15.50 per plug and $65 labor, but then I got a $60 discount on that plus an air filter and final total with taxes and fees was $120 for the two items.
We did that at 4 years and about 30K mi, I plan to push the next replacement out to a 6 year interval, at which time the car will be 10 years old and that will likely be it for plugs as it would be 16 years old another 6 years after that.
I know the 5-cylinder VW engines are a bit trickier.... They have COP (Coil-On-Plug) technology and you have to remove the engine-cover to access them. (Those plugs for the 2.5L (P/N=101-905-601-F) are good for 60,000 miles so they are worth a few more dollars)
Bottom Line: I still contend that $100 is too much to pay to get 5 sparkplugs replaced.
Presuming high quality platinum plugs are used, I'm perfectly happy to pay someone else to do this job for $100 or so. I'm sure good platinums can be found for less than the VW price, but they certainly are not going to be $1.98.
I am pretty certain that you are not going to find a dealer or any other mechanic, working in an actual shop, that is going to replace spark plugs for the $35 figure that you came up with...even if you are willing to use $2 plugs.
Have same EPC issue and looking to buy the diagnostic tool, I understand at autozone is free to get codes read wondering if you can recommend a diagnostic tool based on your experience.
Thanks
Whatever your pocket can afford.
Also your experience level.
You can use it on your friends car to recoup the cost.
Middle priced one should do the DIYer.
If you are going to scan cars made before OBDII (around 1995 and older) get a dual reader. Has two attachments, one for the square and one for the oblong connectors.
Wait for sale at AZ or buy online wherever you can get one.
Hope this helps.
i had never had problems with the heater core or smelling antifreeze from my vents. my question is, would filling the antifreeze jug to the top mess with the pressure and blow of of the hoses in the heater core?
You buy the "dongle" and it plugs into your car and laptop computer. The software is FREE download and thye "upgrade" it often so you always have the latest-n-greatest version for free.
I am sure you will review website I included above... but here are some hilights
1) General Diagnostics capabilities
2) Reset codes to turn off dashboard lite
3) In-depth diagnostics for many of your cars systems (O2-sensor diags, Cat-converter diags... etc)
4) turn on/off any of the programmable options (like auto-locking...etc)
5) Manully operate any of the computer-controlled items for troubleshooting
6) Only way to properly bleed the ABS braking system is by running ABS pump manually.
7) It can log/graph any of the sensors while you are driving to aid in troubleshooting problems.
8) Many more items I have never even used yet
I was quoted $1293 including tax from one shop and $983 incl. tax from another. Still waiting to hear back from a third for an estimate. Anyone else have experience in this area? I didn't expect it to be so ridiculously expensive! Do these costs seem reasonable?
I think they had to replace wiring harnesses related to this as well as some other components. I too was surprised at how much was involved, given the seemingly minor symptoms.
All of this after a new battery in July and 4 new Michelin tires in early August. Needless to say, my summer budget is BLOWN!
I'd certainly try to have it scanned elsewhere for starters.
So.... I think ABS diagnostic-test might be what you are hearing.
Good Ear, Mr Bert! Check out the show "click and clack" on NPR sometimes and you'll hear their callers imitating their cars' noises. cheers !