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Car was purchased new - this is the 1st real problem and it happened during a simple battery replacement.
My questions are, if I change the battery myself will there be a problem with loss of the program in any of the computers? Does this need to be done by the dealer? Is it hard to get the BCM off the top of the battery? I have changed plenty of car and truck batteries before but nothing with this setup.
I'm having this problem as we speak!!!!!!!
Yesterday Morning, I remote started my car, but noticed the remote sound was low. Went out to garage and was unable to disarm remote, hate to use key in door / ignition / while clicking unlock -bypass method. Turned key, dashboard lit up, radio came on, but no cranking or headlights. Could not get key out ignition. Stuck in Accessory position. Tried charging car for nearly 24hrs, still nothing. This morning I was about to have it towed to Pep Boys for a new $85 Battery, but because the "Service Engine Soon & Service Anti-Theft Deterrent System" messages came up on dashboard, they said take it to Chevy. Towed to Chevy, who calls me later and says In order to get the car started and determine what's wrong #1) I need to purchase a battery for $125 #2) Pay $275 for a new cable that runs from the Negative Pole on the battery down thru the ENGINE, because it was "Corroded" ?!?!?! Total Cost is going to be $725.00 just to get it started. I Had them put the job on hold while they check with my "Mickey Mouse " extended warranty called "PALMER". Still waiting for dealership to get back with me on the end result. Before I AUTHORIZE the work, has anyone ever heard of such nonsense????
Car still in the shop 1 week later, numerous wasted useless calls to GM and CHEVY saying it's not the battery & Negative Pole cable, but the BCM, ONLY to have my CHEVY ADVISOR call me this morning to say it's now going to cost $1,200 to repair the car, because it's the BCM !?!?!?! SERIOUSLY.......you people have got to be FRIGGIN kidding me!!!!!!! Is this not what I have called both GM and Chevy's corporates about for the last week only for them to be pretending to be working on the issue??? Their idea of working on the issue is to send emails to the dealer's customer experience mgr. and wait 48hrs for a response, the send another!! As soon as I get this car out the shop, I'm trading it for ANYTHING but a GM product. After owing Chevy's since 1972, THIS IS ONE CUSTOMER THAT'S NOT COMING BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!
Situation: I drove my car last last night and got home around 7P.M. with no issues. Parked the car and went to bed. The next morning I went out to the car to take a drive and it didnt start.
Issues: Electronics would start but engine would not. The car didnt make any noises when trying to start. Only thing that would turn on was the electronics.
Troubleshooting: I first took the battery out and had it tested. Battery worked fine. Then, I tested the fuses with the multimeter, everything worked fine. I even swapped a few out with others. I removed the Starter and had it tested, that worked fine as well.
The Fix: I read over the manual and found out that the ignition has a sensor built in that recognizes the key and a small microchip inside of the key housing. If the key or that chip is damaged, the car WILL NOT START or turnover. This can be predetermined if your dashboard has a symbol that has a Car w/ Lock lit up. I just inserted my spare key and it worked just fine. Even just inserting the key and turning on the electronics and giving it a second, that light will disappear. So, if your problem sounds anything like mine, give your spare key a try OR take the key to the dealership and have them test it for any problems before forking out HUNDREDS or THOUSANDS of dollars to have it diagnosed and have fake repairs done.
Has anyone figured out the root cause of the issue in order to resolve it yet?
I would have all the main connections in the positive red cable from the battery to the fuse/relay box loosened
and cleaned then retightened. I am not sure how the cables run on your Equinox, but connections of main power lines may oxidize and lose the connection. I'd also have the negative cable checked.
The key not coming out is because the main power that moves a solenoid to allow the key to come out when you put the car in Park is missing. There may be a small opening plate underneath the steering column in that area that can be popped off and you can look inside where there's spot on the mechanism that releases the key that you push that allows the key to come out normally. It may be mentioned in the owners manual. Those are on some others of that era GM vehicles.
On my Cobalt the postive line runs to a connection on the fuse box where there's a post for jump starting the car since the battery is in the trunk. Two connectors are screwed down under that post to provide power to the fuse/relay and on to the starter. Those oxide because they're aluminum I think. That's why I'm suggesting you check yours. I also tightened the connection at the battery when this happened to me. One of those connections was not conducting.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,