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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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  • jmbrunjmbrun Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out what was wrong with your jetta and the epc light? mine is doing the exact same thing and no VW shop can figure it out.
  • roni33roni33 Posts: 2
    If the AC lines are clogged even a little bit the pressure relief valve will activate and tell the compressor to turn off. I had this problem with my Jetta and its only after the entire system was flushed that the compressor stopped doing that. Auto AC systems in general need to be kept squeaky clean and any debris will make the compressor shut down before more damage occurs.
  • jmdebelljmdebell Posts: 2
    I also have the same problem from my car, all the coils and plugs have been changed. still showing those codes!! ANY recommendations would be great! I was told by a repair shop (that admitted to knowing nothing about my car) that it needs a new computer, not what I wanted to hear..
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is unfortunate that someone chose to "throw money" at the problem. It is always better to TROUBLESHOOT a problem and then fix the root-cause.

    The DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) are simply pointers and hints which help guide you to a problem. Unfortunately, some folks think the DTCs are telling you what needs to be replaced.

    For example, a "misfire" DTC is flagged when the O2 sensor is sensing that there is too much unburned fuel in the exhaust system. It does NOT necessarily mean that a cylinder misfires... perhaps the O2 sensor is wrong... or a fuel-injector is squirting too much fuel. Applying simple logic to the issue will lead to the proper solution.

    If you would please tell us specifically what DTCs are being flagged on your car (and which engine-code you have) we may be able to help point you in the right direction to a repair. Do not forget that the "mix" of DTCs you are seeing can combine to help lead to the solution.
  • jmdebelljmdebell Posts: 2
    Thank you for the help! I will definitely get you a list of all the codes, mostly it is the ones listed in the first post by surfwax. I was told today that it seems like an injector going bad. Will post more when I get a list of the codes. Thank you again.
  • lok888lok888 BostonPosts: 1,777
    My wife's 2006 VW Jetta has an airbag warning light on. I bought it to the dealer and read it. It is a faulty passenger side airbag. It costs $680 to replace. The car has 63,000 miles on it. So the warranty (4 years/40,000 miles) on airbag is out. I was wondering if it is common on Jetta. I looked at the complaints on NHTSA and found many problems with it. Does the scanner able to read what parts or the dealer just want to replace the airbag unit?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,255
    There was a TSB for a re-flash procedure for some glitchy air bag light warnings, but I don't know if this applies to your situation. You might ask the dealer to review the TSB and decide if this is a possible solution:


    TSB 69 11 01

    February 17, 2011

    Otherwise, the answer to your question is "no"--a scanner cannot usually identifying the EXACT part that is bad---it could very well be a sensor.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • jstalfordjstalford Posts: 1
    I have just changed mine i was looking for the answer too
  • Hi All, I have owned many VW's from buses to rabbits and by far the worst VW I have ever owned is my 2000 Jetta. I Purchased this car in 2002 when my pregnant belly could no longer squeeze under the wheel of my bus. Not the best decision I ever made. A German friend actually apologized on behalf of her country when she saw my car. Everything that could break or fall off of that car has: all cup holders, radio antenna, those plastic faux grill things on the front, not to mention the recalls and the fact that my engine check light is just always on and when I take it in for service, the light ALWAYS COMES BACK ON BEFORE I EVEN GET HOME. Where on Earth are they making these things? It can't be in Germany. China? The Czech Republic? I have a 1975 Bus with Westfalia conversion and it is in much better shape than that Jetta. The final straw? The car is on it's way to the nearest VW dealer, in Yakima, because we all know the process if you lose your electronic key. And us unfortunate VW owners East of the Cascades...don't get me started. Is it meant to only be a prima donna coastal car? Why did Carter VW not warn me? I strong armed my insurance company into paying for the tow. I will not be putting one more precious penny into that abomination. I will simply go back to driving my bus. Who needs heat and air conditioning anyway. Stay away from the Jetta you VW lovers, I think they are fakes.
  • dastammdastamm Posts: 3
    2012-08-14-02T23:15Z

    I have two or three problems with my 1991 GL diesel, which just turned over 204 000 mi. The problems might or might not be related. The last attempt at repairs treated them as three related problems. The problems:

    1. fuel gauge functioned irregularly and erratically (indicating OK or ¿high? then low)

    2. all the time, the coolant temp indicator indicates only barely "warmer" than the "cold" area

    3. infrequently and irregularly, the oil pressure warning light and buzzer come on for no apparent reason; accelerate or rev the engine, and they stop. This happens when driving "straight-and-level" and at steady, "in-town" speeds. Checking the engine oil indicates that it's just fine on the dipstick.

    What we did:

    1. Oil system under pressure tested "good"

    2. Replaced both senders or sensors for oil pressure

    3. Field-expedient soldering by senior mechanic of circuit for fuel gauge

    4. The instrument cluster tested "good," so its printed circuit board became suspect. Replacement circuit board was not found.

    4. What _might_ have worked: Field-expedient wiring by master mechanic of three circuits might have repaired the problem with the fuel gauge. A few weeks' time will tell.

    The problems with the coolant temp indicator and the oil pressure warning light and buzzer remain.

    Before posting this, I saw in the forum the recommendation to test the oil system under pressure. I don't remember whether that was done.

    About a year ago, I changed engine oil from Kendall-brand "straight" petroleum to Kendall-brand "synthetic blend." (I was told Kendall no longer makes "straight" petroleum oil for specification C.) I use 15W-40 during the Summer; 10W-30, Winter.

    I find it hard to believe that synthetic-blend oil would contribute to the two remaining problems. I have no impression that, at operating temp, the engine is running so "cool" as to cause the coolant temp indicator to indicate temp that's only barely just above the "cold" area. I also can't imagine that synthetic-blend oil would cause the pressure sensors and such to malfunction.

    While using "straight" petroleum oil, the oil pressure warning light came on perhaps five times in 15 years. Each time, it was while decelerating and turning right, as when on an exit ramp and decelerating from high speed. I was given to understand that this was because the oil in the pan sloshed away from the intake siphon when turning right at "high" speed. Didn't happen at "in-town" speeds.
  • I have a Nissan Micra and its an excellent hatchback with a powerful engine,high mileage of 23 KMpl and hi tech features.But my friend has Jetta and he has to pay a lot on its maintenance.
  • dastammdastamm Posts: 3
    2012-08-20-01T23:15Z

    I have two or three problems with my 1991 GL diesel, which just turned over 204 000 mi. The problems might or might not be related. The last attempt at repairs treated them as three related problems. The problems:

    1. fuel gauge functioned irregularly and erratically (indicating OK or ¿high? then low)

    2. all the time, the coolant temp indicator indicates only barely "warmer" than the "cold" area

    3. infrequently and irregularly, the oil pressure warning light and buzzer come on for no apparent reason; accelerate or rev the engine, and they stop. This happens when driving "straight-and-level" and at steady, "in-town" speeds (40 mi per h to 45 mi per h). Checking the engine oil indicates that it's just fine on the dipstick.

    What we did:

    1. Oil system under pressure tested "good"

    2. Replaced both senders or sensors for oil pressure

    3. Field-expedient soldering by senior mechanic of circuit for fuel gauge

    4. The instrument cluster tested "good," so its printed circuit board became suspect. Replacement circuit board was not found.

    4. What _might_ have worked: Field-expedient wiring by master mechanic of three circuits might have repaired the problem with the fuel gauge. A few weeks' time will tell.

    The problems with the coolant temp indicator and the oil pressure warning light and buzzer remain.

    Before posting this, I saw in the forum the recommendation to test the oil system under pressure. I don't remember whether that was done.

    About a year ago, I changed engine oil from Kendall-brand "straight" petroleum to Kendall-brand "synthetic blend." (I was told Kendall no longer makes "straight" petroleum oil for specification C.) I use 15W-40 during the Summer; 10W-30, Winter.

    I find it hard to believe that synthetic-blend oil would contribute to the two remaining problems. I have no impression that, at operating temp, the engine is running so "cool" as to cause the coolant temp indicator to indicate temp that's only barely just above the "cold" area. I also can't imagine that synthetic-blend oil would cause the pressure sensors and such to malfunction.

    While using "straight" petroleum oil, the oil pressure warning light came on perhaps five times in 15 years. Each time, it was while decelerating and turning right, as when on an exit ramp and decelerating from high speed. I was given to understand that this was because the oil in the pan sloshed away from the intake siphon when turning right at "high" speed. Didn't happen at "in-town" speeds.
  • Water is ponding at the floorboards of my 2007 Jetta. How do I clear a clogged AC evaporator drain on this car?
  • Do you know if the error codes were P0480 & P0481?
  • Everytime I start my 2006 Jetta, ERROR flashes. It'll go off a few miles down the road. Does anyone know it means?
  • Anybody else having paint issues? Keep my car immaculate, but have noticed three new spots appearing where it looks like the clear coat has just come off. No rock or door ding associated with it, but it looks like it it is just flaking off. the worst one is now the right rear door. Looks horrible. Has there been any official notice? ( doubtful).
    Thanks.
  • So the other day I went to start my 1997 Jetta GLS 2.0, and it didn't want to turn over, but finally did, only to have it stall one second later, and have a puff of white smoke come from my engine. When I looked, the timing belt had snapped off. With this car it has a dual V belt setup. The thicker belt had snapped off. (The one on the crank, alternator, and ac compressor).

    I went to try and start the car again, and it started right up, perfectly. Sound clean, and drove smooth.

    I bought a new timing belt and put it on, and now the car struggles to start up again, and when it is on, there is a LOUD knocking sound coming from the area of the belt. Also, the car and electronics feel like it has surges or energy. Lights dim, idle goes down, etc.

    Keep in mind though, that when the belt was off, the car was fine.

    What could this be?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    WOOOOAAAHHH - that is *not* the timing-belt. It is simply an accessory belt which drives some external items.

    The timing-belt is under a cover and not viable by just looking at the engine.

    If your timing-belt had snapped, then your engine would likely be a suitable boat-anchor. (because the valves would have crashed into the pistons.)

    ---- Now - on to your question...

    If it were mine, I would remove those 2 accessory drive-belts and try to MANUALLY spin each of the accessories. (alternator, power-steering pump, AC compressor...etc) If anything does not spin freely, then you found the problem.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,934
    sounds like oil pump itself may require replacement too.

    many of the symptoms sound like they can be caused by flaky-ground-wire somewhere, or wildly varying voltage going above 14V or below 10V maybe. possibly the voltage regulator is flaky...

    Also if not done already, check or replace the ground wire that goes from negative battery post to the negative post on the starter motor, or the ground to chassis wire from there. I suppose the master-mechanic dude must have checked that already though! are battery cables or either post heavily corroded? again, mechanic must have checked/fixed that already?
  • 2012-09-29-06T14:50Z

    Thanks for your response. After my posting and with a planned road trip of about 1100 miles, I did have the oil pump replaced. In doing so, the oil was changed to 20W-50. I had had 15W-40 in for the Summer. I've been using 10W-30 for Winters. Since that time in the shop, the problem with oil pressure has stopped, and the pressure was fine throughout the trip. With more than 205 000 miles on the car now, I'm thinking of using higher-viscosity oils, both Summer and Winter.

    For the malfunctioning gauge for engine coolant temperature, I plan to have the voltage checked the next time I have the car in the shop.

    ¡Thanks for your help!
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,934
    you are most welcome, dastamm - happy & safe motoring... :D
  • I agree with you. VW jettas are crap!!!!! My 2002 vw jetta is always breaking down. Problem after problem after problem!! I'm sick of it :sick:
  • Just wondering if anyone else has had all four door latches in various stages of malfunction at the same time. I have a 2010 Sportwagen: driver's door will not lock at all, left rr pass door won't unlock if locked and won't lock if unlocked. Front pass door won't unlock, and right rr pass door won't lock. For the rear doors I've had to pop out the little access plug and manually lock the door by pushing the small red lever inside the hole in the door. I'd like to mention I feel like an idiot doing this day in and day out. Today is when I discovered the driver's door won't lock at all, and when I removed the access plug to push on the little red lever there, I discovered there is no little red lever present. Not sure if there isn't one there by design or what.

    I drive a little over 100 miles per day for work, so I drove the car out of warranty in a little over a year, although I don't use the door locks any more than anyone else. I've talked to my dealership about the locks and they pretty much just shrug at me and tell me how much new modules cost. I find this to be unacceptable since door latches are safety parts (of which I have reminded the dealer) but apparently Volkswagen doesnt' care about that.

    At any rate, if anyone has figured out a way to fix these things without simply replacing them all, I would appreciate hearing about it.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    Before you replace anything, run a diagnostic scan to determine what the fault code is. I would think that the dealer would at least have offered to run a diagnostic scan before telling you how much something you may not need costs. I use the Vag Com tool from Ross Tech. If you do not have access to one, an independent VW shop could do a diagnostic scan for a fee.
  • 06gli06gli Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. curious what you did?
  • Has anyone had problems w/ tires fallling off? I had the tires replaced in June and in late Sept. started hearing a noise from the front driver's side wheel/tire. Some co-workers said it sounded like a tie-rod problem. After a couple of weeks, the sound got worse. there was a very loud noise, the car stopped and smoke came out of the front tire area. It was dark, so I didn't get out but the tow truck person said the tire came off. Apparently, the lug nuts came loose. The shop that replaced the tires said this wouldn't have happened after 4000 miles, but they are the only ones who worked on them. If this isn't something that has happened frequently w/ Jettas, then I feel that it is their problem and they owe me the cost of repair and towing.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    All aluminum wheels should have the lug nuts/bolts RETORQUED after about 300 miles after the wheels are installed. This is because aluminum tends to flex and loosen the fasteners.

    This is true for ANY type of car with aluminum wheels.
  • So a friend borrowed my 2002 VW Jetta and when I picked it up from him the car would take some time to get into gear. While driving the car was revving up pretty high even in very low gears when I was going the correct speed for that gear. On the way home I was on the highway in 5th gear and going about 70 when the RPM needle was going crazy. All the way to 7 then back down to 2 then up to 6 and so on and so forth then the car just started slowing down but no light ever came on and fortunately I was able to get off the highway and park it but I haven't gotten it towed yet. Also, when I was got out of the car I noticed what I would call a burning smell. :sick: I was just wondering if anyone else has had the same problem or knows anything about a situation like this?? Also, if it was something that was waiting to happen or if the "friends" driving was the cause of the problem?? Thank you and any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    What kind of xmission do you have? (manual or automatic)

    If you have a manual, then I would say the clutch is slipping.

    If you have an automatic, then the problem may be the xmission itself.
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