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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
But your case may be different, so make sure that you go to different dealers for opinions.
If that's a possibility, check into cleaning or change of chip in the computer to adjust for that. Since you're within 50K that may be covered under pollution EPA standards.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Similarly, they want to change the pollen filter. The car is 15 months old with 13K miles. The cost here is $60. Again, is this necesary and more importantly is this something I can easily do myself?
THANKS!
The dealer swears that the dash lights are working "coast to coast", but I thought that these buttons were illuminated before (it's our kids' car now, so I rarely drive it)
Thanks
Brent
toyota has changed it everytime. dealer willingly had done it while car was under 50K warranty.
last couple times out of warranty, it has been a major struggle. dealer begrudgingly has covered. don't understand why I should pay if it is inherently defective part since the get go that Toyota hasn't been able to fix.
now, having problems with car stalling intermittently without warning. idle drops, car starts shaking and then loses all power. usually restarts after turning on emergency lights, throwing car into neutral or park and gunning engine to restart engine.
have not been able to duplicate at dealership (of course...)
dealer's service manager says that it's because i don't drive car enough. I only do city driving and the solution to this is to "sell the car".
anyone else having problems?
When i start it for the first time in the day it goes out fine ( although initially it gives out a little white smoke). After driving it for quite a distance (8-10 miles) and letting it rest, when i start driving the car again, it leaves a huge puff of white smoke behind.
Then the car works normally until brought to a stop. This usually happens when the car is kept resting for a short duration ( less than an hour or so).
Any suggestions?Thanks!
Awaiting for your comments.....
IS this a serious problem and how much does it cost to get this fixed normally.?
Thanks in adavance.
Are they asking too much and if so will a regular mechanic be able to do this for less?
Thanks in advance and appreciate any feedback,
Are they asking too much and if so will a regular mechanic be able to do this for less?
Thanks in advance and appreciate any feedback,
This is in response to message 280, 289, and 274. After my experience with the IAC valve I just had to share in hopes of preventing another sale of an overpriced part that basically just needs to be cleaned.
I replaced this valve myself. I knew this was the cause of my idle problem based on a friend who had the same problem. Also the local Toyota dealer says they replace these things everyday. You would think Toyota would come up with a solution.
Yes - the only way to replace it is to remove the the throttle body (TB). The IAC valve is on the bottom of the TB with no access. The 4 screws that hold the valve to the TB were so tight I had to grab them with vice grips to break them loose! Be prepared to lose some coolant as their are two coolant hoses and a manifold air hose that connects to the IAC. I did not replace the gasket between the TB and the manifold. Treat it carefully and you should be OK.
I discovered that the valve was stuck in the closed position due to carbon deposits. I was able to remove the electronic activator and work the valve back and forth with my fingers. A little solvent and it now works freely. Had I known this going in I could have easily done this same thing WITHOUT removing and replacing the IAC valve. The electronic actuator is easily accessible. Remove the large rubber intake hose and there is the electronic actuator (right below the butterfly throttle valve). Remove the 2 screws and pull it off. Twist the post (end of the valve mechanism) with fingers or something that will not mar it until it moves freely between the extreme positions. Reassemble and you are running like new again! Probably not a long term solution but a lot cheaper! I could do this procedure in about 15 to 30 minutes.
Ideally, some type of spray aerosol that could be sprayed up the IAC valve intake tube that connects to the intake manifold would be able to clean the valve and keep it in good working condition.
if it is your catalytic converter, they sent a notice about a "special enhancement for certain 96 through 98s on the evaporative control system for 14 years or 150K miles. it is supposed to cover "any other part or component betwen the fuel tank and the intake manifold (but not including the intake mainifold)designed to contain or conduct fuel vapor from the fuel system."
i'm definitely not a mechanic. The last time I had a check engine light, my mechanic felt it might come under that warranty when he did the diagnostic. But, by the time i brought it to the dealership, the light cleared and so did the code.
I do get the check engine light at least once a year, and it we think it's been related to the gas cap.
I am having a similar noise problem with my camry as posted in #273. Can any one tell me what I need to tell the dealer about it. I have been having this noise probelm since i bought the car in January, but hopefully planning to show it to dealer this weekend. Any tips will be helpful.
Thanks
My wife jumped start the car in the morning last Friday. She drove around 10 miles to office. After she left office, the engine didn’t start again. Her colleague helped her to jump it again. I bought a brand new battery and changed the old one on Saturday. The battery ran out of electronic this morning. I guess the alternator died but I am a newbie for car. Do you have any idea?
Toyota says its normal. What the solution???
So the dealership actually repurchased your vehicle? Which dealership is that? Do you know if Toyota is aware of the problem?
Damn. That spoils my weekend. Glad I purchased the extended warranty.
"cuz the ASI is 3 degrees off."
What is ASI? (I don't know too much about cars)
Your Solara is 2000? Do you have problems, like uneven tire wear, due to the poor steering?
Given that I hear the rattling noise only occasionally (usually in the AM going over speed-bumps), and I don't know whom to trust, I was thinking about not replacing anything! Therefore, I was hoping that a fellow Camry owner could provide with me some guidance concerning my situation.
It's just a bit bouncy at this point. The tail drags a bit with 4 adults. The strut tower problem was fixed long ago.
Any thoughts on my timing and any advice on the brand of struts? I'd expect the OEMs to be the best but they have to be pricy.
BTW - It's been everything you used to be able to count on in a Toyota. Strictly routine maintenance. Check engine light did come on once - 1,000 miles from home on a Saturday. Pulled into a dealer in Ft. Myers, got treated like the Mayor and was on my way in a hour.