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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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  • geejellygeejelly Member Posts: 2
    I have a '96 camry. My son just put too much oil in the car and now there is a lot of white smoke coming out of the exhause. Would it be good to drain the oil to a normal level or jus drive the cr until the oil burns down?
  • geejellygeejelly Member Posts: 2
    Have '96 camry. It has started to die when idling in traffic or it will not start. I know to push down the connectors on the battery and it will start and run "until the next time" it happens. I have tried tighting the connectors and making sure that the battery points are clean. Any ideas on what may be happening?
  • newsuvhunternewsuvhunter Member Posts: 5
    Has anyone with a 2004 Camry LE experienced a total break failure?

    I wanted to know because my mother was in an accident where she says that she could not stop the car. The car was totaled. We contacted an attorney, but it was suggested that the cost to litigate and chances of success to get a favorable outcome were slim.

    Nonetheless, I don't want anything else like what my mother experienced happen to anyone else. Hopefully it was just a fluke!

    Bill
  • bd21bd21 Member Posts: 437
    You can damage your engine, if the oil was over serviced and you continue to operate it! Drain the excess as soon as possible! Next time read your owner's manual to find out exactly how much oil goes into your engine. All engines very on the amounts they take. I've had cars that take 3 and 3/8 quarts, 4.2, 4.5, 5 and a truck that held 7 quarts of oil. You don't want to over or under service your oil. Always check your oil before the car is started after an oil change. Then start the car and let it run a minute. Shut it off and check it again after a couple of minutes on level ground. Keeping the oil between the full and low marks will keep your engine properly serviced.
  • bd21bd21 Member Posts: 437
    The chance of a total brake failure is almost impossible. As a mechanic and a guy who's been trained as a crash investigator in the Air Force, I would tell you that a person's statement can't always be taken at face value. You mother may have been very surprised and caught off guard when she realized she was about to hit another car. She told you she couldn't stop, which in her mind was correct. The reality was probably she couldn't stop in time, because there was not time enough for the brakes to be adequately applied to avoid the accident. Again, in your mother's mind the brakes did not work to stop the accident. I can almost garrantee if you had an expert look at the brakes, they would determine they were in good working order. I hope you mother's O.K., but I highly doubt the brakes are an issue. It's just human nature to believe something out of our control caused a problem.
  • ian721ian721 Member Posts: 93
    I have to think you're right bd21.

    Did mom have any trouble with the brakes before? Or were they working fine right up until that one moment when she was about to get into an accident? There's no way for the brakes to totally fail that quickly if they were working just seconds earlier.

    Was it one of those things where she was driving along and realized she had no brakes and then had no choice but to hit something because she finally ran out of room to coast (in which case the emergency brake could have helped, or even downshifting)?

    Or was it a spur-of-the-moment, slam-on-the-brakes-and-pray situation where you close your eyes and hope for the best? In other words, did the first sign that something might be wrong with the brakes show up when she slammed down on them in a panic?
  • eugene2eugene2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 camry LE 4 cylinder with 93000. The last couple months I have noticed white smoke coming from the exhaust when I start it up after the car has been sitting for 4 or 5 hours or more. Does anyone know what this is about and what I need to fix it? Is it a problem that requires fixing? Eugene2
  • yyuyyu Member Posts: 1
    My camry LE (4 auto transmission) is just 2.5 month old and drove only 2800 miles. Two days ago, when I drove on highway, I pressed the gas pedal to speed up. (around 3 minutes after start: at that time it was like 50-60 miles). Soon, a big engine sounds like ‘boong!’ is heard, and RPM soared up to 4.5 (between 4 and 5). As I was so upset and afraid, I tried to press the brake, but it didn’t work. I also tried to press gas pedal, but it didn’t work either. I found out something wrong happened, so, I turned on emergency signal and kept going at the speed of 40 miles. (no alternative: brake didn’t’ work, and accelerator didn’t work). The RPM still went around between 4 and 5. It lasted around 2 minutes, and it went back to RPM 2, and boong sound stopped. And then I could control accelerator and brake. It was such a nightmare. If there were an emergency stop circumstance, I would hit the car and it could cause a big accident.

    After that incident, when I drive, I feel my car kind of heavy. I feel brake working, even though I press the gas pedal and drive at the high speed. It seems to be dragged and to be pulled out from the backside. When I start from the stop line, it makes another engine sound, ‘boong’ (not so big), and rpm soars up to 3 and it’s really hard to speed up. ( It rocks and feel bumpy) When I drive at the speed of 40 or 50 miles and when I release the gas pedal, the car seems to be almost stopped (speeds down so rapidly, like I press the brake) When I ride a car, I feel very uncomfortable; the car rocks and it is bumpy.

    I brought the car to the Toyota dealer shop and explained it. They checked it with their ‘scan system’, and said no error was found in scan, saying that there is nothing that they can do. The technician drove my car around 10 miles and he said it works as it is supposed to do. They said, as there were no errors, there is nothing that they could do. And they added that there had been no complaint like that for 04 Toyota Camry LE. How disgusting it is!!

    I feel afraid and stressful of driving this car! It is so unsafe, and could cause a big accident!

    Now, I read many posts that look similar to my situation. Is there anything that I can do? I plan to go to another dealer shop for second opinion. Also I will complain to Toyota manufacturer. I wish I could hear a good news…Let’s share the story and l’ll update when I hear something.
  • mit1mit1 Member Posts: 18
    WHILE TAKING FINAL TEST DRIVE OF 05 XLE 4 CYL I HEARD RATTLE SOUNDS COMING FROM BACK OF PASS SIDE FRONT SEAT AND REAR AREA /SEAT AREA.PULLED OVER TO CHECK PASS SEAT.HIT BACK OF SEAT WITH HAND AND WAS ABLE TO DUPLICATE SOUND.SOMETHING WAS LOOSE,SOUNDED LIKE BABY RATTLE(NO KIDDING).WENT BACK TO DEALER AND S.MAN DUPLICATED SAME PROBLEM.SUG WE CHECK OTHER XLE 4 CYL,S.HIT BACK OF PASS SEAT ON FIVE DIFFERNT CARS AND NO RATTLE,SO I NIXED DEAL ON THIS CAR AS DEALER HAD NO OTHER COLORS THAT I LIKED.IS THIS QUALITY ISSUE COMMON IN THE LATEST GEN OF CAMRYS.HAVE THEY CHEAPENED THEM UP THAT MUCH.I ALSO FOUND PROBLEM W/RADIO(HISS NOISE COMING FROM ENGINE THRU RADIO)WICH WAS A BAD AMP THAT WAS REPAIRED THE PREVIOUS DAY.SALES MEN VERY PUSHEY WANTED ME TO TAKE CAR HOME WITH RADIO NOISE(FIX LATER) AND YOUR GOING TO NIX DEAL BECAUSE OF RATTLES.WOULD YOU TAKE CAR WITH 2 SERVICE PROBLEMS(NO RESPONSE).I LIKED THE CAR OTHERWISE.I PREVIOUSLY OWNED A 94 CAMRY WITH NO QUALITY ISSUES.
  • cam2003cam2003 Member Posts: 131
    If I were you, I would bring a camcorder to capture that event. This would be a proof for dealer to fix your car.

    I can understand the throttle control could be malfunctioned but unlikely the brake would not work.
    Good luck!
  • cam2003cam2003 Member Posts: 131
    Good report. But I am still questioning even cars were made in Japan do have the quality problems as well in recent years.
  • jbkennedyjbkennedy Member Posts: 70
    You have cracked valve seals, which I had repaired sometime ago on my 97 Camry while it was still under the 60K mile drivetrain warranty. Out of warranty, it is a $1,000 + repair, so I am told. I don't think it is a huge problem to live with as you don't burn that much oil between changes. Also, it helps to use Techron every 3K miles, as it reduces the smoking.
  • murray53murray53 Member Posts: 71
    Sorry to hear about your bad luck with this car. A catastrophic engine failure like this, though rare these days, is possible with any car. I would seriously consider having the engine replaced, although the mileage on it is fairly high for a 5 year old car. You might try to shop around to see if you can do better elsewhere, although that's difficult to do in your situation where the car cannot be driven at all. I see lots of 87-91 and even some 84-86 Camrys still on the road and I am sure that they have a lot more mileage on them than your 99 had when the rod failed. My 1988 model had 139,000 miles on it when I traded it in and I never even had to add a quart of oil between oil changes.
  • eyaabezeyaabez Member Posts: 2
    Usually after sustained highway or freeway travel and after shorter trips as well. I mentioned this to dealer where bought used: HARMONICS; was his one word explanation. Read in Lexus, complaints some time ago, a similar problem... said dealer sent for a "kit" to fix and fixed it. What kit is this and can it go on 97 Camry? Or does Toyota, have a "kit" to fix 97 Camry's grumbly, rumbly, grindy brakes?
    Tranny cruise control won't handle steeper, hilly terrain. Shifts down once, than twice, than when at top of hill, it will continue to run in this lower gear going down hill and then reluctantly and sloppily shifts back up after an unnerving winding-out of engine and tranny. Seen wording in manual that cruise won't work properly on terrain with too much difference in grade. What a set-up!
  • golfblokegolfbloke Member Posts: 1
    I am in the market for a new Camry and have followed with great interest your discussion on the hesitation with drive by wire. Did the RLW modifications fix your problems? Bill, Rogman please give us an update. Did RLW post the Toyota Complaint Case Number? If not RLW would you please do so. Thanks in advance Golfbloke
  • majordadmajordad Member Posts: 43
    I've got an 02 Camry with 30K miles. Its getting close to the end of my manufacturer's warranty and I'd like to know if anyone know the price of an extended Toyota warranty? Or if their is another company which can provide the same benefits as the Toyo warranty.

    I usually buy the extended warranty at initial purchase but decided to wait this time. I hope it doesn't cost me too much for procrastinating.
  • peter panpeter pan Member Posts: 75
    Hi Banddexpress,

    Be very careful of water under the car as it could be leaks from the radiator or hoses in the cooling system. I frun without coolant, overheating damages can crack and completely wreck your engine.

    If the water is confirmed not coming from the A/C alone, check for small leaks on top and around the radiator and all hoses. The plastic top radiator ususally last only 100K mile.

    If a radiator is needed, 1 800 RADIATOR has warehouses in most major city, that can deliver a new one for about $66 with lifetime warranty. Yes I bought them for $66. You just have to be assertive and thell them that you bought it for that much before.

    You only have to remove a few screws and a few clamps around the hoses to replace it and be assured that you did a good job compared to any radiator shops! Believe me I am not mechanical inclined but did a good job for my daughter's Camry which is now on the 3rd radiator after 200K miles!
  • epondepond Member Posts: 13
    I drive a 4 cyl 2002 Toyota Camry XLE. I have not had one problem the 28 months I have driven it. In addition, I regularly change the oil and filter myself.

    However, just today I was cruising on the freeway and noticed on the bottom right of my instrument panel what looked like a check engine light. The manual says it's a "Engine Malfunction Lamp" and that I am suppose to take it to a Toyota Dealer for them to check it out.

    The light came on around 24,500 miles on the odometer. Is this just a reminder to get some upcoming 30,000 miles service done on the car, or could it actually be something serious?

    Thanks for the help in advance.

    epond
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    Majordad - A dealer in Illinois (KC Summers) has the best price for the Platinum Warranty. Here's a link to someone else that received a good deal from them......good luck!

    guntur "Toyota Camry" Sep 9, 2004 9:07pm
  • peter panpeter pan Member Posts: 75
    Looks like the a few of the engine mounts are worn and need replacement. The entire set of 4 Toyota engine mounts would cost about $400 plus labor. You can buy after-market parts for about half.
  • peter panpeter pan Member Posts: 75
    Your problem appears to be dirty fuel injectors.

    Fill one tank with premium gas (i. e. Shell's new VPOWER with 5 detergents, adding one bottle of fuel injectors cleaner. It should fix your starting problem.

    If not, open the air hose into the fuel injector unit, spray in 2 cans of injector cleaner while revving the engine to about 3000 RPM to clean out any gummed up mechanism inside.

    These tricks solved my cold starting/idling problem.
  • peter panpeter pan Member Posts: 75
    If one blinker is burned, the other will blink at roughly twice the normal frequency.

    You should check both bulbs out, replace, clean or apply bulb oil as necessasy. Make sure the both bulbs are properly seated in the sockets and have good ground contact.
  • bill13241bill13241 Member Posts: 11
    Thanks, RWL. Your message helped me get the dealer to fix the stuttering, jerky shift between 1st and 2nd gears on my 4-speed automatic transmission on my 2004 Camry LE. This intermittent problem was most noticeable during moderate acceleration after the transaxle reached normal operating temperature. Here is an update that other folks with this problem can print and take to the dealer get him to fix the problem (that is what I did with RWL's posting). First, Toyota issued a Service Bulletin on September 13, 2004 that identified the problem AND the fix (so at least now Toyota recognizes the problem and has a soluition). The Service Bulletin said that the Valve Body Assembly has been improved to correct this problem. Although it took the dealer 5 days to get and install the parts, the problem has gone away - hurray! The parts installed by the dealer to fix the problem are: 35410-33160 (Valve Body Assembly), 35168-21011 (Transaxle gasket), 35251-30020 (Check Ball Body), and 00279-000T4-01 (ATF Transmission Fluid). And, like you, they took care of the side curtain airbag recall at the same time (less that 1% of the vehicles actually have a problem with the side curtain air bags). My thanks to everyone who help track down this annoying problem.
  • monty1monty1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Camry XL E. The driver side window, once is rolled down by the power window, it does not come up right-a-way. I need to wait for a couple of minutes before it slowly comes up to the close position. It seems like the window power motor needs to be charged up before doing its thing. The battery is brand new on the car.

    Can anybody help??
    mk
  • bd21bd21 Member Posts: 437
    It has nothing to do with the battery. It is most likely the regulator attached to the window motor. You can go to almost any auto glass shop to get it fixed. The repair will run you $150 to $300, depending on the price of the part.
  • wabrywabry Member Posts: 2
    It takes about 3-4 seonds to start my 03 Camry LE (8300 miles only) in the morning. After it's started, there is no problem (takes about 1 seond) to start it again until next morning. It sounds like the battery is dying. But the battery is fine. If I add a bottle of HEET Gas-Line Antifreeze and Water Remover when I fill up gas, it would significantly improve starting. But I have to add a bottle of Heet everytime I fill up the gas tank to keep it that way. Any one knows what's wrong? Thanks.
  • bd21bd21 Member Posts: 437
    Take it to the dealer and leave it overnight. It could be a number of things, but why guess. You have a warranty, so let the dealer figure it out.
  • wabrywabry Member Posts: 2
    I guess I may have to. Posting it here to get some idea what might be wrong and, if the problem is not that serious, save two trips to dealer. Thanks anyway.
  • mbootmboot Member Posts: 1
    2003 Camry. most of the time, when I speed up the car, or when I hit the brake to stop it, there is a sound like fluid flowing backwords/forwards in pipes inside the car. What is causing it? Thanks in advance.
  • bd21bd21 Member Posts: 437
    You have air trapped in your radiator/heater core. Take it to the dealer, they can get it out. It can be messy job to try do yourself and you are under warranty anyway.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    More likely you are hearing gasoline sloshing around in a partly full gas tank, not in the radiator.
  • mrsacks1mrsacks1 Member Posts: 11
    Please Help! My '97 Camry's Check Engine light came on (and yes I checked and the engine is there!) I purchased a engine analyzer (autoxray) and the following Trouble Codes came up: P0171 System Too Lean-Bank 1; P1130 A/F Sensor Performance Fault-Bank 1; P1135 A/F sensor Heater Circuit-Bank 1. Can someone tell me what part or parts need to be repaired or replaced? I'd rather do the work myself if I knew what was wrong and what part or parts I need. Anyone have any experience with this or can point me in the right direction. Much Thanks, Donna (Love the car-got 98,700 miles and lookin for an even 100K!)
  • donbaadonbaa Member Posts: 4
    My 97 LE 4cyl also has clattering near the engine that is worse on a cold start. It does not sound like an internal engine noise to me. I think this engine was always noisy and once asked the dealer service manager to listen to it. He said it was normal. But now it is much worse on start up. Anyone know what this might be? How about a belt tensioning pulley?
  • themoon77themoon77 Member Posts: 102
    As stated above I have an 89 Camry V6 with about 160,000 miles. When I start the car in the morning, the car stumbles for just a moment then revs way up(I have no tach, but the idle is way above the usual slight cold idle level) and stays at that rpm, lowering slightly as the engine warms up. It takes around 10 minutes on a cold morning for the idle to settle down(and this is while driving, I never let it just sit there). Also, and this may be related, I drive approximately 30 miles on the Freeway every day. After 15 miles one way of approximately 70 to 75 miles per hour, I come to a stop at the end of the exit ramp and the idle goes way down(the car sometimes actually dies) then rebounds only to slow way down again. This idle "roller coaster" has continued for approximately 3 minutes, but usually I'm not stopped at the light that long. What could be causing my problems? I have been considering changing the timing belt and water pump as it has been about 67,000 miles since it was last done(the belt that is, my pump is original equip). Any help is greatly appreciated.
    Take note, I have had the cold start injector serviced. The car starts fine when cold, it just idles extremely fast.

    Steve
  • esaculesacul Member Posts: 11
    My 96 Camry LE has the same problem. Whatever that motor stuff was replaced by the dealer to fix the problem and the problem still exists. It is not always there.
  • themoon77themoon77 Member Posts: 102
    That is usually caused by sticky valves. It takes a second or two for the oil pressure to build up to where they are properly lubricated, since they are right up on top just beneath the valve cover. It's not a serious problem. If you start to hear that clacking noise constantly(not the little clicking from the fuel injectors) you need a valve adjustment. Expect the clacking to be worse when the weather turns colder.

    Steve
  • hobbes3hobbes3 Member Posts: 1
    I have had a reoccuring problem with my 95 camry. It sometimes stalls when I get to a stop light, and then it has some trouble starting. I can get it to turn over but it doesn't get the spark. You can sometimes smell gas when I am trying to start it. (I did not touch the gas) Lately, when I get ready to go at a stop light, I press the gas and it almost dies, so I let go and it recovers. I have already changed the ignition coil and Toyota cannot find anything else wrong. Some have said it could be with the fuel injectors. Any help would be great.

    Thanks
  • donahuedonahue Member Posts: 3
    I'm having 2 problems with my 90 Camry and need some advice.
    1. When first starting car in the morning or after several hours, there's a large puff of blue-white smoke. I've been told this is caused by valve seals. Is this correct, and if so, what would be an estimated cost to replace?
    2. There's a "grinding" noise (that's the best way I can describe it) that sounds like its coming from the bottom front of the car when I'm driving. It's worse when I go over a rough road, speed bumps, etc. Doesn't matter if I'm applying brakes or not. I've had the car 3 months. Was told the brakes had been replaced all around. I've replaced timing belt and had new front struts put on. Any ideas what this noise could be coming from?
    Thanks,
    Jackie
  • bd21bd21 Member Posts: 437
    Valve seals are indeed most likely the cause, but it could be from gummed up oil journals in the head too, if they oil was not changed on a regular basis. Take off your oil cap and look with a flashlight for build up which will verify that problem. If it looks O.K., the valves seals will cost you several hundred dollars to replace. I would just keep driving it and check your oil regularly. It will run O.K. like that for a pretty long time. As far as the noise, I suspect your CV joints are bad. Sear, Firestone or any other shop can confirm that for you for free. Good luck!
  • donahuedonahue Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the advice. Someone had told me it could be bushings needed to be replaced, someone else said it wasn't bushings, but didn't know what it was. I'll take it to Sears. Thanks again.
  • donahuedonahue Member Posts: 3
    I had the same thing happen with my 1990 Camry - on the interstate, no less! The fuel pump had gone bad. I replaced it and it's been fine since.
  • artmartm Member Posts: 1
    I'm not getting any heat in my 1990 Camry. The hoses going into the firewall are hot to the touch, so I suspect there is a baffle that makes the air flow over the heater. Where is that baffle and baffle switch located?
  • vppcvppc Member Posts: 58
    Hello, everyone!

    I have a 1998 Toyota Camry LE with 112,000 miles on it. It has the 2.2L 4-cylinder. I have been noticing that when you accelerate up a hill or when you first get going, there is some kind of a "fast rattling" type sound from the hood, but it goes away.

    Is this something that is supposed to happen?

    I was just curious, but the car runs GREAT. Everything works in it.

    Thanks for any comments!
  • vppcvppc Member Posts: 58
    Also, on my Camry, when you floor it, it DOES NOT finally shift at higher speeds until 5800RPM! For example, if I am merging onto the interstate, if I like floor it up to speed (usually I go to 75MPH), the car goes up in RPM's until 5800, then finally shifts down to about 2800, which is where it runs at 75MPH.

    If I remember correctly, I think the car has always done this. But, maybe it is just because it is only a 4-cylinder trying to get to speed? Also, if the car is parked and you rev it, it doesn't stop revving until that EXACT same rotation speed (5800RPM).

    Beside that, normal acceleration and driving, the transmission shifts just fine and smoothly.

    THANKS!
  • ian721ian721 Member Posts: 93
    Any automatic tranny will rev higher than normal if you floor it. That's to take advantage of the higher power the engine puts out at higher rpms. If I'm going 55 and floor it my Camry will drop a gear and rev to around 6000 before it upshifts again into overdrive.
  • vppcvppc Member Posts: 58
    Also, on my Camry, when you floor it, it DOES NOT finally shift at higher speeds until 5800RPM! For example, if I am merging onto the interstate, if I like floor it up to speed (usually I go to 75MPH), the car goes up in RPM's until 5800, then finally shifts down to about 2800, which is where it runs at 75MPH.

    If I remember correctly, I think the car has always done this. But, maybe it is just because it is only a 4-cylinder trying to get to speed? Also, if the car is parked and you rev it, it doesn't stop revving until that EXACT same rotation speed (5800RPM).

    Beside that, normal acceleration and driving, the transmission shifts just fine and smoothly.

    THANKS!
  • xbbusterxbbuster Member Posts: 145
    Maintenance calls for trans service @ 30K on my '02 V6. Dealer wants $130 for a flush and fill. Why not just drain and replace fluid? What's the capacity if I just drain and fill myself? Flushing at 30K just sounds like a money maker for the service dept. And the flush doesn't include a new filter screen.
  • loucapriloucapri Member Posts: 214
    $130 for a flush and fill, I will have them do it. It will cost about $200 for the same job in Seattle.
    I remembered I took my Camry to GreaseMonkey to drain and replace the filter, it cost ~ $90.00 already. They can only drain about 1/3 of the fluid out from the system. A flush usually can suck out almost all of the fluid from the tranny. 30K sounds about a right time. If you didn't drive your car hard and your tran. fluid still looks pink and good, I guess you can wait for maybe 40k or 48k miles before getting a flush.
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  • xbbusterxbbuster Member Posts: 145
    Loucapri.....The flush and fill at the dealer for $130 does not include removing the pan and cleaning the screen/filter. They say it's not necessary. The fluid looks good and smells good but changing the fluid at 30k is required to maintain the drive train warranty. I could drain the pan, clean the screen and replace the gasket and add new fluid myself for $30. Do you know what is required for the warranty, just drain and replace the fluid or a complete flush? Thanks.
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