Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

1…6364666869…99

Comments

  • jdeibjdeib Member Posts: 70
    If you are interested in removing the dash to install a new stereo system, try Crutchfield.com, the stereo supplier. They have detailed directions that you can purchase from them for your Camry. It details how to remove the dash panel to get to the receiver and it also shows how to remove the door panels to replace the speakers. It would be alot cheaper than buying a shop manual if you are needing to just install the stereo.
  • nowoldmechnowoldmech Member Posts: 6
    Maybe not. Check my post on our 2003 Camry V6 LE 5spd automatic (nowoldmech), then check your transmission fluid level. Since there does not appear to be a procedure for this in the Owners Manual, if your not familiar with the procedure find a friend who is. If it is at all over filled take it to your Toyota dealer. I would be interested in what you find.
  • radarhog1radarhog1 Member Posts: 1
    02' Camry XLE with the V6. Lately been noticing engine or Trans. "jerking" while trying to maintain speed under lgt pressure on accelerator. Happens most notably around 48 to 65mph. Getting to be very annoying. Fuel?..electronic trans? Any ideas?
  • nowoldmechnowoldmech Member Posts: 6
    Sounds like a familiar story. Hesitation when starting from a dead stop, abrupt shifts from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to third. How about this symptom: at low throttle and you try to accelerate it seems the transmission is momentarily not in gear then abruptly shifts into gear. Or how about: sometimes when trying to merge into freeway traffic and you try to quickly accelerate but passing gear is flat with no increase in either power or acceleration! If these symptoms sound familiar then read my post on our 2003 Camry (nowoldmech). There is hope but first make sure you transmission was not over filled. I would be interested to hear what you find. Hope your problems turn out to be as simple.
  • hatedealershatedealers Member Posts: 9
    I think you have hit the nail on the head, hatedealers.
    Never had a car that did this before.
    It seems to be getting better over time.
    Car now has 2100 miles on it and the lurch is still there but
    much gentler.
    It used to feel like it was always being rear-ended when I stopped
    at a light, which was not a good feeling as it would cause a panic reaction
    in me, having been rear-ended three times in the past.
    I love this car otherwise except that every other car on the road looks just like it.
    I got the "superwhite" color, so bright it almost glows in the dark.
    Stereo in it is VERY bass heavy, guess they think we all drive around with the bass pounding away.
    For a four cylinder it sure is PEPPY, especially on the highway where we all cruise at 90 mph here in south Florida. Cruises like a six cylinder. Power to spare.
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    This is not just a Camry problem. It is also occuring in other Toyota and Lexus models with the 5-speed automatic transmission. There is discussion of the problem going on at nearly all of the Edmunds message boards for the various models. There is also a forum that is dedicated to just the hesitation problem in all makes and models that has some good discussion/solutions regarding Toyota/Lexus:

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef4cdbd/1070
  • sandman2525sandman2525 Member Posts: 2
    hey I have a similar problem with the brake and accelerator pedal both vibrate i think after stopping or braking and yes the brakes also sqeual so they did replace pads last time this time I am going to get them to check the rotars too
    I have 2000 camry V4 with 100K
  • scottimusscottimus Member Posts: 4
    Thanks! I never thought about that, I did check Crutchfield.com for any needed installation kits, but didn't even think of a detailed install guide...
  • 94camryv694camryv6 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 94 Camry V6 with the same problem. Local mechanic mentioned that it could be the fuel filter. He didn't have time to replace it today. When I have it replaced, I'll let you know if that helps.

    A note that when this first started about 8 weeks ago, I thought it was the transmission, I have 157K miles. Then, 2 weeks ago, reverse started to slip very bad, then the overdrive button didn't work when I wanted to use 3rd gear to help slow down. I had a used transmission put in. But the jerking is still there.

    Hope I can help.
  • jsmack00jsmack00 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 97 Camry and just the other day the check engine light came on. And me not knowing too much about cars didn't want to take any chances so I went straight to a mechanic. After doing a diagnostic they said it was the 02 sensory, so I say go ahead and replace it. After they were done the check engine light wasn't on anymore so I was all happy, and drove the car straight home, about a quarter mile from the mechanic. Then this morning I turn the car on for the first time since I got back from the mechanic and the light turned on again. So besides going back to the mechanic and demanding that something should be done, is there anything else I should do?
    Thanks...
  • cam2003cam2003 Member Posts: 131
    I noticed in day one when I picked the car about jerky thing. Immediately, I checked the transmission fluid and it was at correct level.
    I mentioned this problem to service guy, he said " wait until 1000 miles over break-in period". Now the car has 20K and it's still jerky.
    Brought the car to Toyota dealership twice, nothing they can do about it.
    It's design flaw and Toyota could not figure out to fix it. There were several TSB about transmission and none of them could fix the problem. :confuse:
  • pcookpcook Member Posts: 2
    Monday 05/16/05 I purchased a 2003 Camry with 38,000 miles on it from the local FORD dealership here in Selma, Al. I love the car, it drives great, looks good, etc. Wednesday 05/18/05, the check engine light came on. I looked at the owners manual and it suggested that the gas cap may be loose. I checked this, it was not loose. I took the car back to the FORD dealership and of course they act like they have never seen me before, forgot all about my $14,000 purchase.
    They say that I must take it to a toyota dealership. The nearest one is 50 miles away in Montgomery, Al. I am getting NO CO-OPERATION from these Goobers. I want to know if anyone else has experienced the Check Engine light problem with their 2003 Camry? Did I buy a :lemon: ?
  • pcookpcook Member Posts: 2
    my check engine light is on too! I have a 2003 toyota camry, just bought it Monday!!! Took it to the dealership where I bought it, they did something (probably unhooked the battery) and the light went away, for one day! Came right back on.
  • jsmack00jsmack00 Member Posts: 2
    I took my Camry back to the mechanic, and it turns out that the 02 sensor they installed was bad, and this is a sensor I watched them take out of the package, so I am guessing these things are pretty fragile. I have learned that your best bet is to go to AutoZone and let them to a free electronic diagnostic, and then if there is a problem you can decided what to do from there. And if there isn't just ask them to erase the check engine light, and if it turns on again then go to a mechanic, the dealerships are way too expensive.
  • siren1siren1 Member Posts: 1
    The clicking sound for the turn signals of my 2005 Camry LE has very little volume and can't be heard in traffic with the window open or radio on etc. The dealer has offered to relocate the unit to be closer to the driver to possibly make the sound more audible. He said it would take 2-3 hours to do this . Are there any other solutions to increasing the sound level of the turn signals?
  • cam2003cam2003 Member Posts: 131
    Connect to you radio speakers
  • niki1niki1 Member Posts: 52
    Or, turn up your hearing aid (lol), just kidding.
  • bunny2bunny2 Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a 1999 Toyota Camry LE V6 with 21,000 miles from a private owner. We immediately had the oil changed after we purchased the vehicle. I was surprised when the oil light came on before the next scheduled oil change. Around town the car drove fine. Then, I drove the car approximately 10 hours. Five hours going and five hours returning. I had to add 4 qts of oil in the car. I again took the car into my mechanic, since he checked the car out before I purchased it, and he could not locate any visible signs of an oil leak. Therefore he speculated that something was going on inside the engine. I need help from you as to the exact contents of the letter such as address and or telephone number so that I can get help. Thanking you in advance for your time and effort. How is your car?
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    Sounds like you could have the dreaded engine sludge problem. Symptoms include what appears to be a loss of oil (it isn't really being lost, it is just turned into a goo that does not circulate), smoke coming out of your exhaust, and eventually the check engine light may come on. Sometimes people can see that the oil is thick, very black, and even chunky on the dipstick. There is a lot of information on the internet about this, including some old archived discussions here at Edmunds. Do an Edmunds search and internet search for "engine sludge" - several other makes have this problem too, like VW.

    There are several 1997 - 2002 Toyota and Lexus models affected (including 1999 Camry) that are covered under a free repair policy that is for 8 years from the original purchaes date, unlimited miles. I am pretty sure buyers of used vehicles are covered too, however, to get your engine repaired for free, you are supposed to provide proof of reasonable maintenance -- unless you have the maintenance records of previous owners, i don't know how you would do this. To positively identify sludge, you will need to get someone to pull the valve cover.
  • jamisontjamisont Member Posts: 4
    Refilling break fluid is real bad idea.
    If break fluid level is low it means couple of bad things, such as leakage or very thin break pad etc so usually technicians at autoshop see low break fluid level, they would also check those parts.
    Refilling break fluid would stop them from doing that, it might be just masking the real problem.
  • christieleechristielee Member Posts: 2
    My '97 has a rattle in the front end that I can't seem to find. I live in DC (we r potholes U.S.), and I hear the noise regularly when I am driving over a rough section of road. Unfortunately, there aren't too many sections of smooth road. I have shaken several parts of the front suspension in an effort to locate loose pieces. My boyfriend laughed at me :( He says that the struts probably need to be replaced. I bought the car from my mother and to the best of my knowledge, the struts are original. The car has 112000 miles on it and the service station quoted $350 to replace the front struts. Is this a job I can handle on my own? I know which end is the business end of most tools and am WAY more mechanically inclined than my boyfriend.
    Is it likely the struts need replacing?
    Is it a job I can tackle?
  • bucklebuckle Member Posts: 1
    I have a Camry 4 cylinder 94. It has an over heating problem when driving up hills but is ok around town or on the flat. I have changed the thermostat and water pump. The fans are coming on but not for very long and not always! Yesterday the car over heated and the fans wernt on. The air con fans work and warm air comes out of the heater inside. Would changing the Radiator Fan Switch solve this problem or are there other factors?
  • 05camry33se05camry33se Member Posts: 67
    If you want to do-it-yourself it, I can think of a lot worse projects you could undertake.

    link title
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    " Is this a job I can handle on my own?"

    Not without a spring compresser. Plus you can't do the alignment afterward either (I assume that was included in the quote you got.)
  • yareckyareck Member Posts: 1
    I have '99 Camry and experienced the same problem. You are not need to replace struts just top mounts. My car had this problem on 75k and mechanic said: "they all do"(Camry’s). After repair sound disappear, now I have 120k everything fine.
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    Check engine light can be caused by engine problems, or sensors acting up in extreme climate, like very high humidity etc...

    Try resetting the sensors by removing the battery's negative terminal, waiting 10 seconds, then reinstalling it. If that will not clear up the warning light, you should bring the car to Toyota dealers who can diagnose the problems with their computerized test equipment.
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    May be caused by calcium deposit, from tap water, clogging the hoses in the radiator, which reduces the cooling capacity, especially during climbs.

    You should try to clean the radiator innards with one of those calcium desolving detergent. It worked for me.

    The dealer wanted to replace the water pump, radiator, fanetc.. which totaled about $2,000. My solution costed $5.00.

    Always use only distilled water, never tap water, for your radiator.
  • 94camryv694camryv6 Member Posts: 4
    Fuel filter does not help. I guess I will have to leave it with a machanic for a while and hope he can diagnose the problem. Maybe it is a fuel pump problem? If you find a solution, let me know. It is annoying.
    Thanks.
  • cam99cam99 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I have a 99 camry LE with 65k. Fixed a flat tire and had it balanced recently. Then I feel vibration from under seat when driving around 50mph, especially after I step the brake and then hit the gas to speed up. The vibration is gone above 60mph.

    Also, a couple of weeks ago I did the state inspection for title registration. The inspector noted "noise in timing belt area". There is kind of rattle sound seemed from engine, which is obvious at 40-55mph. The manual says replacing timing belt every 60k, but I know many people didn't replace it until far above that. So what will it be if timing belt is about to break, so we'll know it needs to be replaced? Also, could the vibration mentioned above relate to timing belt problem?

    Thanks.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    A reporter is looking to speak with owners of Chrysler, Saab, Toyota or Volkswagen vehicles who did all the scheduled maintenance on their vehicle and still experienced engine sludge within the warranty period within the past year. If this describes your situation, please respond by 6pm Eastern on Monday, May 23, 2005 to jfallon@edmunds.com.
    Thanks for your consideration,
    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com
  • r0de099r0de099 Member Posts: 35
    Can the problem be solved by just replacing the rotors?
    Went to the shops this weekend,first shop i went to they charging
    me $372.00 to replace the rotors and the pads, but my pads are still good
    they still looks new they said i need to put a new pads also to resolve the problem.
    Went to 2nd shop said its gonna cost me $200.00 something plus tax,also said that i need to put a new pads.Do i have an option to just replace the rotors and keep the pads?I need some advice.
  • takktakk Member Posts: 1
    i have 2000 camry, could you tell me what wiil happen if timings belt broke.
    also i am interested how to change the brake pad.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    If it was the rear tire that was repaired, the vibration clearly appears to be caused by an improperly balanced tire/wheel. Vibration through the seat at specific speeds is the classic symtom of improper rear tire balance. (Vibration through the steering wheel is symptomatic of front tire imbalance.)

    Is the tire worth saving? If so, you should definitely go back to the tire repairer.

    Timing belts give no warning about when they are about to fail. The "rattle" is NOT being caused by the timing belt. You cannot even tell by looking at the belt if it's going to fail. In all probability, if you replaced your belt now, you would not be able to tell the difference visually between the old and new belts.

    If the belt were to fail, you'd be stranded on the spot, but there would be no engine damage, at least if you have the 4-cylinder (I think but am not certain the same would be true for the V6).

    It wouldn't hurt to replace the belt now, since age as well as mileage play a role, and your car is 6 years old. I'd use a reputable independent shop rather than a dealer.
  • wendyw1wendyw1 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem and the fix at the dealer was easy and cheap. The sunroof channel gets clogged up with dirt and debris and they just needs to clear it out with high pressure water. Hope this helps.
  • bunny2bunny2 Member Posts: 2
    I am so happy! I took my car in to the local Toyota Dealership. I described the problems with the car. I did not tell them what I knew about the engine oil gel. However, I left the car for them to check it out. Sure enough they told me it was engine sludge. The program there is called the "Star Program" and Toyota is going to pay for replacing the engine. I will not have a car for 14 working days. Toyota Corporation will allow me a rental car for 5 consecutive days. The Toyota Dealership did not ask for receipts of regular oil maintenance. This may have occurred because a former Pontiac Service Manager, who is know employed by Toyota, remembered me servicing my Pontiac Grand Am regularly. I was proud to tell him, the car had over 186,000 before I got rid of it for a second transmission problem. Thanks for your help.
  • toyota_guy1toyota_guy1 Member Posts: 1
    My Observation with the oil leak is, leave it alone until you start loosing significant amount of oil, check it every morning for few days & if you feel its loosing too much oil then go for oil leak stop thing at Autozone or Pepboys if it doesn't solve the problem then go for the gasket replacement,Get it done only at a Toyota dealer.

    In you case it looks like has ripped you of,you could have lived with a little bit of oil leak if it has increased lick it means the gasket replacement isn't done properly, get on him about that & tell him it shouldn't be leaking any oil.

    For next time for such works take it to dealer, Toyota Service stations are not that expensive if we put it with the quality of service & piece of mind we get, also if your car is leaking to much make sure you keep checking oil & don't run out of it while you are driving.
    Also, all the cars I own are Toyotas/Lexus, I had one Nissan Maxima which really sucked with maintenance cost, so I sold it & I am a complete Toyota Guy now.
  • mca2mca2 Member Posts: 20
    Does the 2002 Carmy SE (95K miles) use the same front rotors as the other Carmy's? This is the second pair of front rotors that have warped and do not intend to use OEM rotors again. I know the SE has 16in wheels but the shops are saying they only see 15 tires for the Camry. Am I stuck with warping OEM rotors?
  • cam99cam99 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you 210delray fro your reply. For the viration/tire issue, it's the right front tire which was replaced by myself and I had it balanced at a tire shop. Actually the vibration is from both wheel and under seat. I guess it's still balance problem.

    So you say Toyota used non-interference engine for 99 Camry then the engine would be ok if timing belt breaks? That's definetely good news. My car is 4-cylinder. I think I'll change timing belt in a couple of months.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    You're quite welcome! Yes, it's almost certainly a tire imbalance issue.

    Yes, the 97-01 Camry's 4-cyl. engine is a non-interference type, which means the engine won't be harmed if the timing belt breaks. Of course, you might be, if the belt breaks in an unsavory neighborhood late at night!
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    The 2002-05 Camry XLE also uses 16-inch wheels, and 17-inch wheels are now available on the 2005 SE. You could try the aftermarket, but there's no guarantee those rotors won't warp either, eventually.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    Have your lug nuts always been torqued to the factory specs with a torque wrench? Were the caliper pins regreased when you had your pads replaced? Unevenly or overtorqued lug nuts are probably the #1 cause of warped rotors. Calipers not sliding freely are another.

    I don't know for a fact but I suspect all Camry rotors are the same. There's not enough difference in weight between the different models to warrant different rotor sizes. There's at least 1" between my calipers and the 17" wheel so a 15" steel wheel would easily fit.
  • ghbsportsghbsports Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Camry with 175,000 miles and the rear lamp failure light just came on my dash when one of my tails burnt out, so I purchased all of the back bulbs, 6 in all and replaced them just to be safe, they all work now but the darn light is still on and I was hoping somebody could let me know how to reset it. Thanks.
  • trighttright Member Posts: 2
    I just got a 90 Camry 4-door sedan, rolled the driver side window went down, and now it will not go back up. None of the other windows will work from the driver door either, but they do work from the switches on the individual doors. I'm guessing it is the switch assembly on the driver door, but thought I'd ask around to be sure. I pulled the switch assembly and cleaned the contacts, but it didn't help. Is there some way I can verify this before I shell out $ for a switch assembly? I was thinking if I could find out which contacts in the connector to jump, I might at least verify that everything else is working. Thanks for any help!
  • cam2003cam2003 Member Posts: 131
    "I don't know for a fact but I suspect all Camry rotors are the same. There's not enough difference in weight between the different models to warrant different rotor sizes. There's at least 1" between my calipers and the 17" wheel so a 15" steel wheel would easily fit. "

    Not really, as I know the XLE, XLE V6, SE V6 have bigger rotors compared to SE, LE and LE V6. The 15" wheel would not fit to the option has bigger rotor.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    "...I know the XLE, XLE V6, SE V6 have bigger rotors compared to SE, LE and LE V6."

    I stand corrected then. Is this published somewhere or can you tell by looking thru the wheel openings?
  • cam2003cam2003 Member Posts: 131
    "I stand corrected then. Is this published somewhere or can you tell by looking thru the wheel openings? "

    Both, there is specs I provided below, also you can see 16" wheel has bigger rotor.

    Here is the specs
    Small rotor: 10.8" (15" wheels)
    Big rotor: 11.7" (16" wheels)

    Here is the link to Toyota's spec
    http://pressroom.toyota.com/photo_library/display_release.html?id=2004camry_s
  • mca2mca2 Member Posts: 20
    Thanks for the information. Everytime I get the tires rotated the work order does say 72 pounds feet. Does anyone know of a good aftermarket rotor?
  • cam2003cam2003 Member Posts: 131
    There was a TSB for Camry 2002 model regarding vibration of brake. It looks like the warranty has expired on your car, but it's worth while to check it out

    BR006-02 DEC 02 Brakes - Front Brake Vibration
    "Under certain usage conditions, some 2002 – 2003 model year Camry vehicles may exhibit front brake vibration. The rotor and pad have been improved to correct this condition. The new rotor and pad must be installed as a set. The revised parts have been introduced into production."
    �� 2002 – 2003 model year Camry V6 XLE and V6 SE vehicles produced before the
    VINs shown below.
    PLANT STARTING VIN
    TMMK Line 1 4T1BF3#K#3U037796
    TMMK Line 2 4T1BF3#K#3U544996
    Tsutsumi JTDBF3#K#30103561
    PREVIOUS PART NUMBER CURRENT PART NUMBER PART NAME
    N/A 04002–18133 Repair Kit, Pad & Disc*
    04945–33050 Same Shim Kit (JPP) (if needed**)
    04945–06070 Same Shim Kit (NAP) (if needed**)
    * Kit contains 2 brake rotors and brake pads for both front calipers.
    ** Visually inspect shims for heat discoloration. If discolored, replace the shims.
    1. R & R the brake pads and rotors following the procedures outlined in the applicable
    Camry Repair Manual.
    2. Road test the vehicle.
    OP CODE DESCRIPTION TIME OFP T1 T2
    BR2006 Replace Front Rotors, Pads and Shims
    (if Needed) for Vibration (Both Sides)
    0.7 43512–33100 21 44
    Applicable Warranty*:
    This repair is covered under the Toyota Comprehensive Warranty. This warranty is in
    effect for 36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first..."
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    "Here is the link to Toyota's spec"

    Thanks for the link. Strangely, for the 2005 model it shows a rotor .1" smaller diameter for the 17" wheel vs the 16" wheel.

    http://pressroom.toyota.com/presstxt/2005toyotakit/2005_Camry_s.pdf
  • alay9alay9 Member Posts: 1
    Timing Belt, one of the most import maintenance on a car. I have an acura integra so I know about acuras and hondas. So what happens if the timing belt breaks. You are out of luck. When the timing belt breaks since it cotrols the timing of your engine things get very messed up. Easily over a thousand dollars worth of damage could be caused by this. Then you have to get your engine rebuilt. Most likely that rebuilt engine will never run the same as the old one. Very commonly the timing belt and water pump are replaced at the same time. I would recommend buying the parts yourself online and then taking it to the shop and have them do the labor. They charged me $180 for belt and water pump when I could have gotten it for $100. I highly recommend changing the timing belt on the cheduled maitenance time. I believe every 60,000 miles. Some of this stuff may be different for toyotas, however i doubt it. The timing belt determines when your pistons fire. Imagine what happens when they just decide to randomly fire. Yeah, severe costly damage. Do the maintenance if you plan to keep the car. It will save you money.
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles