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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • toyoman1toyoman1 Member Posts: 52
    So imidazol97,

    Is it worth putting up a stink at the garage? I want to get what I paid for!!!! I might not get 100K outta a rebuilt radiator. Either way my baby is better so I'm not to pissed.

    Toyoman1
  • mramarmramar Member Posts: 1
    I have a Toyota Camry LE 2001. Recently, I have been having similar problems with my power windows. The passenger side windows (both) can be scrolled down but does not scroll up. They go up partly after sometime...about 1 inch every 5-10 minutes. I initially thought that the battery may need replacement and changed one recently but that has not corrected the problem. It is soooo annoying...

    Appreciate if anyone knows why this happens...
    Thanks
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    This is pretty indicitave of a worn or almost worn out window motor. You could take the door apart and try lubricating the moving parts to see if it's just gummed up with dirt, etc., but in all liklihood you'll have to replace the window motors to get them working again.

    Ken
  • gdub2gdub2 Member Posts: 10
    My engine light is on - and my code is P0441 - Evap emission control purge flow low - does anyone know if this will be covered under the 1996 through 1998 Model Year Federal Emissions Warranty Enhancement before I have to take it to the dealer and pay $100 for them to look at it?

    Has anyone ever been covered undered this Emissions Warranty Enhancement for repairs? Knowing that you have to get the problem checked out at a Toyota Dealer ($100.00) before they tell you whether it is covered under the warranty.

    I just had the tranmission rebuilt $1400.00 and now this engine light shows up. I'm getting ready to put it up for sale by owner. It has 119K miles and one owner me! So I need to hurry up and get it ready for selling so I can buy my new car. I've had it with this camry.
  • active18active18 Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a 2005 Camry LE after driving a 2000 Camry CE for 5 years.
    As I drove it for a few days I began to realize that the feel of the drive is totally different from the '00 model. Although both are 4-cyl., the new one is not smooth in its gear transition and is somewhat noisy in achieving 35 mph. The gas pedal has a
    "trigger" touch that kind of pushes unsmoothly.
    I had a different dealer check it to make sure it wasn't a single-car issue, and was told it drove as it was supposed to. I'm really not enjoying in-city driving.
    Anyone out there know what I'm talking about?
    Did Toyota alter the transmission somewhere between '00 and '05?
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    Two things changed from your '00 to the '05 that you test drove. In addition to the numerous other changes. The first is that the transmission is a 5sp automatic rather than the 4sp you have. Secondly, the car uses a throttle-by-wire system, so there is no throttle wire. So combined with a more powerful engine and different gearing added to the throttle by wire system, you may find it is a bit more touchy or as others may say more responsive. Just your perspective when making the comparison.

    Hope this helps.

    Ken
  • gdub2gdub2 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 96 Camry and my power lock switch on my driver side door stopped unlocking as well. I have not looked into the repair as I am about to sell it as is after I get the engine light off.
  • active18active18 Member Posts: 2
    Ken:

    Thank you. You're the first to acknowledge and explain the difference.

    Active18
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    You're welcome and I'm glad I was able to clarify for you.

    Ken
  • gdub2gdub2 Member Posts: 10
    I do have the document. It was a letter that they sent out I tried to make it into an image let's see if this works ..

    Emissions Warranty

    Here is an Excerpt:

    "The enhancement coverage is on the Evaporative System and is extended to the components specified below for a period of 14 yrs or 150,000 miles from the vehicles in service date, whichever occurs first.
    -Evap storage canister
    -Evap system pressure sensor
    -Fuel cap
    -Fuel tank
    -Fuel tank filter neck
    -Purge valve
    -Tank vapor vent line
    -Three-way valve
    -Any ohter part or component, including any maintenance parts, between the fuel tank and teh intake manifold (but not including the intake manifold) designed to contain or conduct fuel vapor from the fuel system"
  • slemleyslemley Member Posts: 1
    Can someone possibly help?!

    I took my car to the auto store to get my car tested, and its showing an error code of P0440. What would you suggest that is wrong with it? And how would I go about fixing the problem?

    Please any and all comments welcome!
  • siddhisiddhi Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    I bought a 2005 Camry LE and just got my 5k service done at the
    dealership. I was finding the brakes a little weak, hence I told the
    dealership to check the brakes. They came back with a quote of $1000
    saying that the rear brake drums, cylinders everything needs to be
    replaced. The Brake oil is burnt and has to be drained out using a
    special machine. They claim that this happens if you have driven with
    the Emergency brakes ON.

    I had always thought that the brakes were soft but thought that this
    might be because different cars have different braking powers. I spoke
    to some people and told me that if you drive with your emergency brake
    on then you would see the friction/drag in a mile or so. I dont think
    this car has been driven with the Emergency brake ON.

    This car is 3 months old and has 5K on it. The dealership tells me
    that we cannot claim warranty because it will get rejected and I
    cannot use insurance because insurance doesent cover wear and tear. I
    think the brakes have been degrading and now when i notice a
    substantial problem. i dont want to spend $1000 on a brand new car.

    Any suggestions ?
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    If the dealer you're getting the car serviced at isn't willing to work with you, you should bring it to another service department. They should be able/willing to contact Toyota to file a warranty claim. There isn't anything at this point to lose. In all liklihood, with as new as this car is, they should be willing to help.

    Hope this helps.

    Ken
  • julieb1julieb1 Member Posts: 1
    This happened several times to me today with my 2003 Camry. The button on the side of the shifter wouldn't depress. So I couldn't shift out of park. It took several minutes of trying to get it to work. I'll be at the dealership next week for another problem. Guess I'll ask them about this.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    My take on this is that you are out of luck. The only way out is to show that the brake warning light on the instrument panel doesn't turn on unless the parking (emergency) brake lever is pulled up fully or almost fully. Normally, the light will come on with just a very slight pull of the lever to warn that the brakes are on.

    My guess is that the parking brake was on lightly, enough that the rear brake shoes were continuously applied to the brake drums while you were driving those 5000 miles. This would overheat the rear brakes and cause the damage you described. If the rear brakes were on lightly, you wouldn't necessarily be able to tell by the way the car drove, but the warning light in the instrument panel should have been on.
  • typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    Check to see if brake lights come on. Shift interlock is linked to brake light switch so one can shift out of Park if brake pedal is depressed and car is on. If brake lights do not come on when brake pedal is depressed, the switch needs adjusting or replacing.
  • gdub2gdub2 Member Posts: 10
    :confuse: I'm going to the dealer Tuesday with Warranty Notice in Hand! .. So we'll see what happens.
  • niki1niki1 Member Posts: 52
    To All,
    Has anyone been experiencing BAD engine tapping (like valves) when the vehicle is in gear? My 2005 Camry sounds like my 95 Beretta, which has bad valves. The dealership changed the main drive belt, but that did nothing. The area rep. for Toyota reviewed my file and stated that the problem is a caricteristic of the 2005 4 cyl. Camry, and this was determined without him/her putting eyes or ears to my vehicle. Toyota said they stand behind the area reps. decision, who just started working for Toyota, and that they will not make anymore attempts to repair this problem, and that I need to arbitrate my case. This vehicle has 1500 miles on it.
    Thanks in advance for your help!
    NIKI1
  • gerrydgerryd Member Posts: 1
    I would like to tow my tent trailer (GVWR 1680 lb.) with my four cylinder Camry and would like to know if anyone has experienced overheating problems when doing so. Does Toyota sell a "Towing Kit" ? Is a transmission oil cooler required?
    Thanks
    Gerryd
  • joescarjoescar Member Posts: 30
    We towed a 900 pound pop-up with a 4 Cyl. Camry and although it didn't do any damage, I'd have to advise against it. Stopping was difficult, the suspension was strained, power was inadequate, etc. I would certainly NOT tow the weight you propose under any circumstances! Buy yourself a truck or SUV if you want to tow. A modern van is also an alternative which worked well for us. Best of luck!
  • eyedoc1eyedoc1 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2005 Camry LE. After driving for more than 30 minutes, my legs start to hurt. I have tried adjusting the seat in every possible position and it doesn't help. Is there anyone out there who has had this experience? Is there a solution? My previous car was a Buick Regal. I am wondering if the problem is merely that I am unsused to the smaller seats in the Camry. Perhaps my legs will get used to this in time? I am already thinking about trading in my camry for an Avalon. Will this be a better choice?
  • bernievoglerbernievogler Member Posts: 1
    This may reflect on your 2001 Camry - you be the judge. Mine is a 1988 Camry Station wagon with the 4 cylinder engine, A/C, automatic transmission. I have towed many things with this faithful car. My sailboat and trailer weigh about 1000 pounds- I do notice the extra load on the brakes but no problem really. I have an enclosed utility trailer that I towed across the US and back. I had over 1000 pounds going to Tucson and 1600 pounds returning. I did have some warmer than normal temperatures pulling out of Phoenix in 112°F heat with the loaded trailer and A/C on, but none for the rest of the trip. This was an August trip with the temperatures in the 90's for most of it and I ran the speed limit on the interstates. The tow ended in Syracuse NY. I had 190,000 miles on the car and now have 215,000. It still runs reliable with or without the trailer. I have towed several loads of furniture between Buffalo, NY and Rochester, NY and Syracuse NY - estimate 1400 pounds per load. Acceleration is slower, braking is longer but the Toyota has always done well. I went to U-Haul for the hitch and electrical connections for my car. There are no extra equipment for towing in my system.

    Bernie
  • sn1ckosn1cko Member Posts: 9
    I just picked up an '02 Camry (late model), and the aim of the headlights seems to be off. From the driver's seat, the left headlights are aimed/shooting higher than the right headlights. Isn't it usually the other way around to avoid blinding oncoming traffic? Also, I'm not sure which side (if not both) needs adjustment; it's probably the left side, because the beam seems to shoot straight out. Can anyone tell me how to remove the headlight assembly and readjust the light beams? The Toyota Dealer quoted roughly $40 to adjust each side, and I'm not ready to pay $80 to adjust my headlights :mad:
  • clarinetjetclarinetjet Member Posts: 1
    I just recently purchased a 98 Camry. The fuel tank cover (the hatch, not the actual screw in fuel cover thing) won't open when I try to open it with the latch inside by the driver's seat. Is there an easy fix for that? I'll need to buy gas real soon! The lever for the trunk works fine.
  • loucapriloucapri Member Posts: 214
    someone had the same problem before in this msg board.
    I think his solution is to have someone pull the fuel door level (under your seat) and have another person use a screwdriver to pop the fuel door.

    I believe he is still looking for a better solution, you can search for it (I think he posted it only a week ago)
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I really don't understand this. You already know that the problem is NOT characteristic of the 2005 Camry 4-cylinder, because you've test driven at least one other Camry that DIDN'T have the problem.

    I can also tell you from owning both a 2004 Camry 4-cylinder that I just gave to my son and new 2005 Camry 4-cylinder that the engines are as smooth as silk, as was the 1997 Camry 4-cylinder (with the earlier design) that I had previously.

    I think it's fruitless to keep asking on this board if someone else has the problem, because it's probably very rare (and nobody has come forward yet).

    Something is seriously awry here -- either you're leaving out some information or the dealer AND area rep are totally incompetent. You are going to have to get aggressive with Toyota.

    What would happen if you went to another Toyota dealer, of course not mentioning that you've already had the problem looked at by your selling dealer? And you really don't know it's the valves, just because it sounds like your Beretta, so I wouldn't say anything other than the engine is making a terrible noise. Make sure they hear the engine while it's running.

    Alternatively (or in addition), you could pay a trusted, reliable independent shop to give you a diagnosis in writing that you could use as evidence.

    If you have to arbitrate in the end, go ahead and do so, but if you don't get satisfaction, I'd seriously consider hiring an attorney that specializes in lemon law cases.

    This will probably be my last post to you on this, so good luck! Let us know, however, how it turns out.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Well, you don't remove the lights to re-aim them. If you don't really know enough about it, you ought to have a pro do it. You don't need to use the dealer, however. Any competent independent shop should be able to do it, and it shouldn't take more than about 0.5 hours of labor. So if the labor rate is $75/hour, your cost should be $37.50. Ask friends, neighbors, or relatives for recommendations.

    Also, if you bought your car from other than a private party, couldn't you ask if the seller will do it for free?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Well, there's no easy answer. Some people have more trouble with seats than others, and there's no guarantee the Avalon will be any better. I certainly wouldn't take a bath on trading in the Camry without knowing how the Avalon will do. Perhaps the only way to find out is to rent one for a weekend.

    BTW, I'm pretty insensitive to seat differences, but my wife is the opposite. I'm fine with my current and former Camrys, but my wife didn't like the nonadjustable (except seat back angle) passenger seat on our '04 LE, which I just gave to my son. The fully adjustable (except lumbar) power passenger seat on our new '05 XLE suits her much better.
  • adrian11adrian11 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Toyota Camry, the power windows do work however the stripping that the window slides up and down from seems to be worn and folds in thus not creating a complete seal on the window, I get whistling from this, Do they sell replacement stripping for this? or any trim stripping for drivers side window.,any help..or am i confusing this topic?
  • hyyzhyyz Member Posts: 4
    I had a 04 Camry that has many problems. I have gone to dealer many times for repairs. Here is a list of problems I have:
    1. It pulls to left since day one. Dealer has repaired 5 times without results.
    2. Tires wears too fast. At only 15,000 miles, many treads were already gone. I have rotated tires serveral times.
    3. It surges at around 30mph. Drive-by-wire is not so good.
    4. Windshield bottom rattles. Dealer replaced the cowel with only temporary results. After several weeks, rattle came back again. It feels something is loose inside. I was ambarrased letting friends sit in my car because of the rattle.
    5. Rattles from door panel areas.
    6. I heard rattle/vibration noise from engine or under vehicle every time I started the car and hit on gas to drive it. Dealer said it is the intake manifold. After they replaced it, the rattle is still. Yet, dealer refused to admit it.
    7. Starting from around 8,000 miles also, I smelt strong rotten egg smell. Dealer said they have to replace the converter. After repalced it, they said they had to re-program the ECM. But after they have done all of these, the car started to feel heavy - acceleration is hard, steering is hard, and it is hard to brake. And the car started to get into mystery: sometimes it is normal; sometimes it is really hard to drive(hard acceleration, steering, and brake). Engine is noiser than before.

    It seems like every time the car had a problem, dealer's fix either didn't fix it or introduced new problems.

    So, I sold the Camry. I don't want to spend any more time and energy on its problems. I recently bought a new 05 Chrysler T&C at only $15,500 (include all the charges, tax, fees, etc.) I am really happen with it.

    I really disappointed with Camry and Toyota!
  • ricareyricarey Member Posts: 25
    I had the charcoal canister replaced by the dealership and as far as I know, no one has ever had that cost covered by any warranty. It may just be that I didn't even know about it so didn't push the idea...but dealerships usually know about that kind of thing.
  • camryseowner05camryseowner05 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2005 SE V6 about a month ago and I'm very unhappy with the way the thing drives. We also have a '99 model that's still as sweet as the day we bought it. I don't know what the engineers and all of the other people down the inspection line were thinking when they thought they could mass produce something like this. I read one individual's entry that described this problem as "more responsive". Please! this is the most unresponsive vehicle I've ever driven - but let me qualify that: off the line and at slow speeds this vehicle is a dog when trying to accelerate quickly. However, when I'm already moving at a good clip and need more power it's there. From what I'm reading it's this "drive-by-wire" technology. If that is indeed the issue and they can't find a fix then they need to dump that trash and go back to a reliable cable that will give the driver what is expected. Don't give us something that is substandard and say that's the way it's supposed to be. :mad:
  • batybaty Member Posts: 1
    there are usually two screw left and right at the top of the lense mounting area. you might have to remove some decrotive crap out of the way but they are there. find them and wait for dark sit in front of your garge door and adjust them to your liking. have fun
  • sn1ckosn1cko Member Posts: 9
    Does anyone know how to remove the headlight assembly on the '02+ Camry? I'd like to take one of the headlight assemblies out and put them back in, because it seems looser than the other one and I want to see if any tabs are broken. The aim is probably off because the headlight housing is loose. Any help would be great, thanks!
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Well, I can't speak for the V6, but both the '04 and '05 Camrys I have with the 4-cyl and auto tranny work just fine. The '04 has a 4-speed tranny, and the '05 has a 5-speed, which I believe is the same as the one in the 2002-05 V6.

    I don't think the problem is due to throttle-by-wire. And I certainly wouldn't want to go back to the old days of throttle cables or linkages sticking or binding.

    I guess GM had so much trouble with throttle linkages in the past that they still have the linkage as an item that must be checked at regular intervals, according to the Chevy Cobalt maintenance schedule that I saw.
  • toyotacamtoyotacam Member Posts: 2
    I also have just purchased a 2005 camry LE with a 4 cyl. and I hear a noise that sounds similar to gas pinging. I have taken it to the dealer where purchased and they came up with some idiotic answer like " they thought it was a noise in the heater core". I have 3500 miles on the vehicle now and I am still hearing the pinging. I have tried higher octane, and it is still there. I know there should be no pinging noise on a new car and thats the bottom line. I will try the dealer one more time and then its time to raise some hell I suppose.
    I appreciate any intelligent response.
  • toyotacamtoyotacam Member Posts: 2
    I can only tell you that I took my 2005 camry LE to the dealer because I keep hearing a pinging when I push on the gas under a load and they told me that toyota put out a posting for a noise coming from the heater core, and they tried to tell me that this is what I was hearing. Obviously that is not the noise I was hearing but I would just about bet that this is what you are hearing. The service manager said that maybe the next time I brought it in for service that toyota would find and fix whatever noise it was? Id say yours is coming from the heater core.
    Good Luck!
  • douglasmdouglasm Member Posts: 1
    NIK11
    I have the same problem with my 2001 Camry. would love to hear what happened with yours . Can I e-mail you directly or call you? I have 103,000 miles on it, and the warentee expired at 100,000. Car cannot be driven, and am considering another engine, but do not want the same thing to happen at 100,000 miles. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks, doug
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Pinging is generally caused by insufficient gasoline octane, so I'm surprised that using higher octane doesn't resolve the problem. (Although with today's electronics and computer controls, maybe I'm out of date.) Still, Toyota 4-cylinder engines are designed to run on regular (87 octane) gas. General Motors has long maintained that light pinging while under load (like accelerating uphill) is okay and won't damage the engine. What you don't want is continuous heavy pinging under most operating conditions.

    Douglasm, if the car can't be driven, the problem must be more serious than what the others are reporting. Have you had the car looked at?

    One other observation: it seems the dealers are increasingly lazy or incompetent. This makes it all the more important to search not only for the best deal when buying your car, but also to check for the best reputation for service, especially if you're not going to be doing your own maintenance.
  • 54gradsteds54gradsteds Member Posts: 102
    I bought a "96 Camry wagon in 2000, with 25.000 original miles on the clock. I now have 75,000 on it, and have been putting up with a musty smell in the ventilation system, despite periodic "treatments" rendered by spraying Lysol disenfectant into the air intake cowl while the system is running. This masks the musty smell for a while, but it always comes back after a month or two. Does anyone have an idea of the cause, and do you have a more permanent solution? Thanks... Phil
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    Have a service dept. clean out the evaporator and put in an anti-fungal agent. You can get these at almost any auto-parts store. Once you get it in there, it's almost impossible to get it out without taking it apart to dry and clean it. To help prevent it in the future, the anti-fungal will help, but try to refrain from using the recirc. setting as well.

    Hope this helps.

    Ken
  • 54gradsteds54gradsteds Member Posts: 102
    Thanks for the tip, Ken. Fresh air fiend that I am, the recirculator button is NEVER used, except when behind a diesel or badly out-of-tune clunker. Perhaps the culprit was the previous owner's wife. Women are often "frozos", and use the recirculate button much more, I believe, than men. Phil
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    You're welcome

    Ken
  • motownusamotownusa Member Posts: 836
    Are you gentlemen automotive engineer/technician by profession ? Your knowledge about cars seem impeccable. Thanks for your contribution to this vital forum. I own a 2003 Camry LE V6 and I can say that it is by far the best car I have owned so far.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    Thank you for the compliment and I wish I could say that I was a Toyota engineer. However, I've just been working with Toyota's for a little over 10 years now. Started as a sales consultant, moved into Financial Management, and Sales Management, and just recently moved back into sales as I miss working with my customers. However after 10years of being around, in, owning, and driving Toyota's you get an idea of what are common questions and concerns. Plus I just love the technology, culture and quality of the vehicles I've been blessed to work with.

    I'm sure you're going to get many more wonderful miles out of your Camry as I had mine before trading it in recently on a Tundra.

    Toyota Ken
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Thank you also for your nice comments. I have a science background, and have worked with an automotive-related research and communications firm for the last 25+ years. I love cars, and I try to do as much maintenance on my own as possible. I'm on my third Camry since 1997 and have been exceptionally pleased with their overall reliability, and I have a 1998 Nissan Frontier as well, which has also been virtually trouble-free. I also had a 1980 Volvo 240 that I purchased used in 1982. That car was durable enough (though not entirely without problems) that I was able to keep it until June 2003. It had the advantage of being easy to work on.

    By the way, I'd probably still be on my first Camry, a 1997, except for two things: I wanted side curtain airbags after the impressive IIHS side test crash test results for the 2004 Camry so equipped. Thus, I replaced the 1997 at 111K miles with a 2004. Then my son got accepted into grad school in Southern California and will need a car. After searching long and hard for a suitable, affordable used car with head protection side airbags (and good crash test results), I ended up giving him our 2004 and purchasing a new 2005 Camry. Rather expensive, yes, but children are priceless!
  • bradp2bradp2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Camry and the other morning out of nowhere it would not start. When I open the door or touch the brakes the lights flash like the alarm is going off, but no horn sound. After a couple of minutes the lights stop, until I touch the brakes or the door again, or turn my key in the ignition. The car does not even attempt to turn over, it is like the starter has been disabled by the alarm. I have tried disconnecting the battery, but as soon as I reconnect it the same thing happens again. Has anybody experienced this or anything similar? Is there an alarm reset button I could push to reset the factory security system? Does it sound like a security system issue? Thanks in advance for any advice.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    It sounds like you might be right. Did you, by chance leave the keys in the car on the dash or somewhere the like? On a VERY rare occasion, the excessive heat can damage the chip in the key if it has the programable key. If you don't, then I'd guess that there's a short somewhere in the security circuit.

    Toyota Ken
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Sorry about your dispointment. The car (in the rattle arena) has been a major let down to many of us as well..

    Quick question on your T&C deal. Was it a new one? Was there a trade involved. That price seems way cheap if I compare it to the price Edmunds show 'em going for. Can you elaborate a bit, if they are selling that cheap I may be interested in one.
  • berea99berea99 Member Posts: 2
    I see that this was posted sometime ago, and I'm having the same problem now in my 1993 Camry. I curious to see if this was fixed and what the problem is. And about what is a fair repair vs. rebuild cost estimate.
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