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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • berea99berea99 Member Posts: 2
    1993 Camry LE is no longer reversing. Shifter goes into reverse with out a problem but then nothing. I can mash the peddle, and nothing, the engine just revs. I've seen other references to this type of problem, but no solution. I need help with this. Plus what is an appropriate repair vs. rebuild cost estimate for a transmission.
  • hyyzhyyz Member Posts: 4
    andrelaplume,

    The T&C is an SWB. I bought it on June 20 with Chrysler employee discount and all other cash rebates. I think the employee discount dropped the price to mid 18K. The cash rebates includes $2,500 for everyone, $1,000 for trade-in or financing through Chrysler, $500 for AARP member. I wasn't an AARP member before I bought the van, but the dealer applied it for me to let me take the discount. With all above deals, the price dropped to $14,300 or so. Then add tax, doc fee, title transfer fee, etc. That brought the price to $15,450 or so.

    I could get the employee choice disount number (EC number) because I live in Detroit. I just asked a Chysler employee for a number. I heard that Chrysler is going to follow GM to give this discount to everyone in July.

    I know several other guys bought this way at almost the same price. If you want to buy one, you'd better to buy an 05 model because it has the 7/70000 powertrain warranty. 06 models won't.

    Good luck!
  • kjoy56kjoy56 Member Posts: 1
    94 Camry - key no longer will lock/unlock on the driver's side. The key goes in and turns slightly. Have tried graphite and such on the key to no avail. The key will work on the passenger side lock and in the trunk. I also don't have problems starting. It's just the driver's side door [at least for now]! Any thoughts or must I go to the dealer.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    Before I did anything, I'd try another or a new key. Toyota lock cylindars are notoriously finicky and you have to have exactly the right notches in the key for it to work. If it isn't the key, it unfortunately is probably a lock cylindar that needs replacing.

    Hope this helps.

    Toyota Ken
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Thanks! I do not think I have the guts to use an employee discount w/out really working there..unless they open it up for everyone like GM. Still, they should have a better method verifying the discount. As far as loosing the 7/70 warranty....if that happens I likely will not buy as these vans were notorious for problems, though they last few years they have supposedly improved.

    Good luck with both vehicles.
  • another_personanother_person Member Posts: 93
    I had the same problem with my 93, except the key would only open the driverside door and sometimes start the car. Had to go to the dealer to get a new key (~$15) because all the keys that came with the car were already in use and warn. Tested it and after I was sure it worked, made like 6 more duplicates for $2's each (incase this happens again) The dealer can cut you a new key by the key serial number, or your vin number.
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Member Posts: 52
    Hey All,

    So I was noticing that since I spend all of time in city driving that I spend alot on gas. I figured my gas mileage for the 95 Camry. It has an 18.5 Gallon tank if I am not mistaken. I get about 330 miles out of a tank. So doing the math that gives me about 17 MPG. Isn't that horrible GM for this vehicle? What can I do to improve my Gas mileage? Maybe the engine needs some work, but there aren't any warning lights on. Like I said this all city driving so... FEEDBACK ANYONE??? Let me know. Happy Motoring!!!!

    Toyoman1
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    For one thing, your math is slightly off -- it's actually 17.8 mpg, which of course rounds to 18 mpg. But more importantly, you're never going to be able to add the full 18.5 gallons to the tank. So start by filling up your tank, drive x number of miles (at least 200), and then fill again, trying to do it the same way you filled up the first tank, maybe even using the same pump the 2nd time, if possible. Divide miles driven by gallons to fill, and viola, I bet it's at least 20 mpg, which is okay for all city driving.
  • ziggy4ziggy4 Member Posts: 1
    2004 Camry SE 4 cyl manual transmission, 55,000 miles - Speedometer is not working and engine check light remains on. A diagnostic check reveals a speed sensor malfunction. Any information about correcting this problem would be most appreciated. Thanks.
  • siebersieber Member Posts: 1
    When I drive, there are loud squeaks under the car, but these stop when I brake. What is this a warning sign of?
    99 Camry
  • zinguyzinguy Member Posts: 2
    I'm trying to change the brake light bulb in my 1996 Camry LE. Following the owner's manual, I've removed the two screws on the inboard side of the taillight module, and the module works free at one end but I'm unsure how to free the other end. Do I do something to the inside plastic plug at the far end?
  • zinguyzinguy Member Posts: 2
    Squeezed the plug with pliers and the module came out. Thanks anyhow.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The front brake pads are worn down to the audible sensors. Time to have the brakes inspected and repaired as necessary.
  • camryman2camryman2 Member Posts: 3
    I drive a 2000 Camry XLE V-6 with 43,800 miles, and the "Check Engine" indicator just lit up. The car drives normally and all fluid levels are fine, no odd sounds or smells, etc. I read here that a loose gas cap can trigger the "Check Engine" warning sensor. Sure enough, the gas cap was loose. But now the light is still on. So either the gas cap caused the sensor to trigger or it's something else. If it was the gas cap, shouldn't the sensor light have gone off after I secured the gas cap or would the sensor need to be reset? Should I have the computer scanned for error codes? Finally, should I try to reset the sensor myself by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 seconds or should I have a professional mechanic reset it? Thanks.
  • dougb10dougb10 Member Posts: 185
    It sounds like you have brake pad wear that should be addressed. These "squealing" noises mean you should have the brake pads replaced. If you continue to drive the car, possible rotor damage may occur.
    I am not a mechanic, but to my knowledge, this is the most probable cause of your noise.Take it to a reputable brake expert to see.

    Doug
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    The check engine light needs to be reset. It should go off on it's own in about a week if you don't have anything other than the gas cap as the issue. Othewise, you can disconnect the battery terminal, but I'd just leave it alone for a couple more days and see if it resets itself.

    Toyota Ken
  • txstudmfntxstudmfn Member Posts: 6
    Have your brakes checked out. It might need to be adjusted or replaced.

    Jess
  • psupaulpsupaul Member Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Camry with 58,000 miles. For about a month now, when the car is used for the first time of the day and we are on the same road, at the same spot and speed, the engine seems to die out. It will start going slower and slower while the tach stays at just over 2,000 rpms. If you stomp on the gas you can get it to kick out of the problem and everything is fine. Yesterday it got worse and eventually caused the car to stall on my wife. When I got there I had a problem driving it for a few miles but once it warmed up the problem went away and was fine the rest of the day for around town driving. For those few miles it would alternate between revving high then balking and almost stalling.

    Any clues on what it could be?
  • hrs2hrs2 Member Posts: 3
    The check engine light came on, the code was PO128, I got help from Advance auto to read the code they said the car does not get hot enough so I replace the thermostat, now the Idle on the car very low about 200-250. Any help in this will be great. What sensor if any I should replace?
  • ricareyricarey Member Posts: 25
    I know you posted a long time ago, but I just recently replaced my headlights. On the 99 it is very easy to replace the headlights. All you have to do is unplug the electric wire from the back of the lamps and take off the rubbery cover. you can then open up the clip that secures them and simply pull the bulb out. Careful not to touch the bulb itself when replacing as the oil from your skin can cause halogen bulbs to burn out faster.
  • ricareyricarey Member Posts: 25
    I had that happen w/mine and it took over a month before the bulb actually burned out. It appears that the warning light turns on before the bulb is actually gone...so you'll probably just need to keep checking them. Also, it took a few drives before the light went out after replacing the burnt out signal light. The problem is that it doesn't specify which light will be burnt out, so it may be more than one. Another possibility is that there is a loose bulb.
  • ricareyricarey Member Posts: 25
    This post is really old...but for those still reading it, it sounds like the typical Idle Air Control valve problem. Replacing the part should cost about 200 parts and another 70-140 labor, or you could try yourself.
  • hoopoppyhoopoppy Member Posts: 2
    I have a Camry '04 LE V6. I didn't tightly closed my gas cap and the MIL went off after 1/4 tank of gas consumed. Quickly I went to dealer, the service man told me drive normally and wait for few days. If the light wouldn't turn off, bring car back. I am a nervous driver and worried it might be other problem rather than gas cap. I started to count my trips. Totally, I run 18 trips, 180 miles and 6 days to "put out" the MIL. Some trips were short as 3 miles. I will remember to twist the cap until "click" three times before leave gas station.
    Here just my personal experience about "drive cycles" regarding MIL reset.
  • petertpetert Member Posts: 23
    Gentely put your foot on the gas and then turn the key, keep your foot a little while.
    This works and could save you hundred bucks.

    This is a very traditional Camry problem, Toyota never fixed this.
  • mdgurl23mdgurl23 Member Posts: 3
    I have an 01 Camry that I bought at 51000 last May and is now at 70000. My engine light came on a month after I bought it and I dont know why it wont go out. Passed emissions, changed oil at the advice of a friend, tighted my gas cap, disconnected my battery.... tried it all it seems. It still runs great all the time, but the light make me nervous because it wont stay out. It will go off for maybe a half a day occassionally but it always comes back on. Any suggestions/advice? Thanks.
  • hrs2hrs2 Member Posts: 3
    Try to go to Advance or Auto zone and find out what code usualy they are helpfull, if you code is PO128 you need to replace the thermostat, good luck
  • midorigalmidorigal Member Posts: 8
    Hello,

    I just bought a new 2005 Camry LE 4 cyl. last weekend and only have 265 miles on it. Today going to work I stopped and dropped off some mail, leaving the engine on. When I went back to the car, the passenger seat was indicating the the seat belt needed to be put on and the Airbag OFF light was on. I had my purse and lunch and a big bag in the front seat. Think that could have activated the signal that someone (albeit a light one) was in the front seat? I've been putting my bag and purse in the front seat all week and nothing happened. I finally had to pull over because the seat belt reminder was so loud, shut off the car and waited to turn it back on and then it was ok.

    Also, once I got to work, I was reading the owner's manual regarding the airbags. It stated that when my key is in the "on" position that the airbag light should be on my panel for about 6 seconds and then go off. I went to check and this was indeed correct except my ABS indication light stayed on and started flashing. So, I shut off my car and started it 2 more times and neither time the ABS light came on.

    Is my car just acting kooky or is this an indication of problems to come? I really hope not because I bought a new car so I wouldn't have to worry about it for at least 3 years and everyone's always telling me how reliable the Camrys and Toyotas are.

    If anyone, Toyota Ken or other experts can help, I would really appreciate it!

    Midorigal
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    Midorigal,

    Sounds as though your purse along isn't enough weight to set off the weight sensor in the passenger seat, but you must have had a pretty good sized lunch or a big lunch bag. :P Seriously though, it was probably just the extra weight of the lunch bag making the difference.

    As for the ABS light flashing, the car does a self-diagnostic each time it starts up on the ABS. It could have just been a fluke that one time. If it happends again, have it checked out, but I wouldn't be too concerned about it. The only time I ever had it come on was when one of the sensors on the front wheel of my car got corroded and needed replacing. I don't think that would be an issue on a car as new as yours though.

    Hope this was helpful.

    Ken
  • midorigalmidorigal Member Posts: 8
    Hi Ken,

    Thank you so much for your reply. You've put me at ease. I will try not to be too paranoid about every little thing. I will have to start putting things in the back seat or behind my seat. I use to have a 2 door and am not used to all the space the Camry provides. My lunch was rather big today, kind of embarrassing :blush: , it was leftovers but I carted home yesterday with no problems. Oh well, I'll use better sense putting things on my front seat.

    As for the ABS I'll keep an eye out but not freak out too much.

    Thanks again Toyota Ken!

    Midorigal
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    You're welcome.

    Ken
  • sonhongsonhong Member Posts: 1
    Globeguy,

    I have experienced the same problem on the new 2005 Toyota Camry. I am writing to let you know that unfortunately that problem led me to an accident. I had experienced the same sudden acceleration forward while braking many times.

    I have a long haul to work - about an hour each way so I definitely notice things about the car. I became dramatically concerned and the problem became more noticeable when it started happening while I was the lead (front/first) car braking at a stop light. This obviously would throw you into moving traffic running perpendicular towards your direction and it a threat to your safety.

    I talked to a serviceman at Toyota about it. He said it probably had something to do with the technology of the braking system but most likely it was just the gears downshifting and that it was nothing to be concerned about. I don't know much about cars so since he was a serviceman I thought it might just be that I needed to get used to the car more. After the accident, I realized how serious the problem really is.

    I was braking (my foot was definitely on the braking and pressing down) near an intersection when the sudden lurch caught me off guard. The lurch would have made me rear end the car in front of me. I don't remember really what happened next but I assumed I immediately moved the steering wheel right to avoid rear ending the car in front. The Camry now was headed into a concrete barrier so I reacted by moving the steering wheel left which made me hit the car that had previously been in front of me. It was extremely fortunate no one was hurt.

    The point though is that this is NOT a minor problem. Even if you are aware of the problem a sudden and unexpected acceleration may catch you off guard and cause you to react in a way that could put you and others in danger. Bottom line, that problem may instigate a response from you that may threaten your life and others around you.

    I felt like you should be made aware of the serious nature of the problem, since I have gone through it.

    -Son Hong
  • topwcmtopwcm Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Camry 4 cyl 5SFE engine AT, with a similar problem...idle seems low when the AC comes on. I have cleaned the throttle body, and replaced the IAC...it made no difference. Sometimes the idle will increase when the AC comes on, but then slowly decreases, but at other times the idle does not increase when the AC cycles on. I notice this while waiting at signal lights. Any thoughts??
  • treed1treed1 Member Posts: 1
    I am responding to the message you wrote in 2002 about Toyota Camrys and the 'sludge' problem- I have a 23 y/o daughter who is a struggling actress in L.A., who is leasing a 2001 Camry at the present time. It is supposed to be under warranty, however, she was driving along in traffice this week when the car just 'went dead' and she had to swerve off to the side of the road. No emergency or hazard lights came on of any kind. She proceeded to try and restart the car and it did crank but, as she puts it, " It sounded like a bunch of tin cans grinding together". Not knowing any better she drove it to the next exit and pulled into a Firestone Center where she was told, " This engine is gone, it looks like it is out of oil- when's the last time you added oil?" She couldn't remember the date but suggested it had been longer than usual, which in her case would have been 5-6 months. She then had it towed to the nearest Toyota dealer, who again popped open the hood and told her she had obviously not added/changed oil as needed and she would now need to replace the engine at a cost of $7,000. The warranty would not be good in this case as they felt this was neglect on her part.

    Myself, being a Toyota owner for many years, just found the whole thing a little "off"-
    # 1, why did no oil light ever come on, even when the engine was 'burning up'?
    #2 I happen to have gone over the 3-4 month time period many times with my cars and have never had my engine burn up from neglect.
    Both of my daughters have always been good about getting their oil changed in a reasonable time period, in fact they are better at it than I am for the most part. So I couldn't help but wonder why this Toyota had this much damage from one late oil change. That's when I did a little searching on the internet for any related info, and came across your article and the fact that this almost identical experience had occurred to so many Toyota owners. However ,when my daughter brought this information to the attention of the different mechanics she spoke with to ask if this could be the case, they didn't seem to even consider this as an option- Are they just uninformed or are we making incorrect assumptions on our part? What steps should she take to be sure this is not what has happened to her Camry- It is a 2.2 4 cyl engine, is this one of the ones that had this problem? I this really is a problem of 'neglect' she will take responsibility, but will take it to one of the mechanics who gave her an estimate closer to $2500 for repairs. Unfortunately, neither she or I have that money to spare right now. She did acquire the receipt for her last oil change to prove she had had it done this year. She has put about 6500 miles on the car since that time. If Toyota has repaired other cars in the past with similar problem, we want to ask them to cover this problem as well. Can you advise us? Thanks
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    Sorry, not the person you are requesting a response from, but I am familiar with the sludge issues. Your Camry is covered under an 8 year, unlimited mileage policy for a free engine repair should it succumb to sludge. To get this repair done by Toyota, you must prove that you (or your daughter) have performed "reasonable maintenance". I have heard that Toyota considers proof (receipts) of at least one oil change per year as reasonable. The policy is supposed to cover the repair plus incidental costs (such as rental car, tow truck) you have incurred as a result of this problem. I suggest you call the Toyota customer service number that is in your manual and say that you want this vehicle covered under Toyota's Customer Support Program for Engine Sludge. You may also want to try an internet search for Toyota engine sludge to get more background and documentation on this policy.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    The 2.2-liter 4-cylinder was indeed affected by the sludge problem, and the 8-year, unlimited mileage warranty was added by Toyota to cover the problem.

    However, it sounds as though your daughter's car may have run out of oil, maybe due to a leak (such as might occur with an improperly installed oil filter). If the car in fact ran out of oil, it would NOT be covered by the sludge warranty.

    I have no explanation as to why the oil light didn't come on, but maybe she just didn't notice it due to the having to get the car off the highway quickly when the engine died.

    Not to be overly pedantic, but you should have your daughters actually pull the dipstick to check the oil level. I personally check mine once a week.

    This is especially critical immediately after the oil is changed, as the mechanic may not have installed the filter properly, or in rare cases, forgot to add new oil. I personally wouldn't drive away from the repair shop without checking first for leaks on the ground and proper oil level on the dipstick.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I second the checking oil each week or more, e.g., whenever you get gas. I've heard too many horror stories. The other is what a radio talk show mechanic said about his cars...

    He explained to his wife and children that the red light (or orange) that says check engine means stop the car NOW. Turn the key off and coast. It doesn't mean stop when it's convenient at the next exit. He has seen too many overheated engines ruined by driving those last blocks or miles home so it would be "convenient."

    Your daughter has learned a hard lesson. The oil level hadn't been checked in 4-6 months!!!!??? Probably just normal use of oil by the engine since it wasn't being changed often and was using oil past clogged rings, etc. The car ran out of oil.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • psupaulpsupaul Member Posts: 3
    I had a check engine light and when scanned it said to replace the o2 sensor. Anyone know how hard this is with a 97 Camry? What symptoms would it make when driving the car?

    Thanks.

    Paul
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    If it's a 4-cylinder, it's theoretically very easy to change it. The only problem is that it may be stuck on so tight that you need the proverbial blowtorch to get it off. There likely would be no symptoms, just your car would probably fail an emissions test.

    If you do manage to get off the old unit, apply a thin film of anti-seize compound on the threads of the new unit. This will make it much easier to remove in the future. Anti-seize compound should be available at any auto parts store. Advance Auto sells it in tiny foil containers that are suitable for one-time only use, so you don't have to buy a large tube of the stuff.
  • mdgurl23mdgurl23 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for all of your help, but one more question: is replacing the thermostat generally expensive?? I dont know too much about cars. :):)
  • psupaulpsupaul Member Posts: 3
    Thanks!
  • I loved my SLE V6 for the first 80K "freeway miles" since I bought it four years ago, and it's been dealer-serviced its entire life, with maintenance schedules followed rigorously.

    In the last 2K miles, it first had a worn power steering hose for $560 P+L, and now the engine service light has led to a Dx ($70) of a "bad computer" ($1250 part).

    These are the first non-routine items in this car's history, so I'd appreciate hearing from other drivers of high-mileage V6's if there's a threshold where reliability has cratered for you. My wife would like to know, too. She drives a '99 Sienna V6 @ 92K miles.

    Thanks in advance.
  • skyholderskyholder Member Posts: 6
    Hello.
    The center console double cup holder has broken free in the front. Befor the whole thing snaps I wanted to know how to repair it? Is there a good adheasive? Do I need to take the entire center console apart, G-d forbid?

    Great site you have here.
    Thanks,
    Skyholder
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    I had a check engine light and when scanned it said to replace the o2 sensor.

    No, it didn't. There hasn't been an engine control computer or scan tool made yet that can detect a defective O2 sensor. What it did was give a diagnostic trouble code relating to an O2 sensor circuit. Post the code and we can go from there. Code #'s P0130 through P0167 all relate to O2 sensor circuits, but none say to replace the sensor. It could be a defective sensor, but could also be a wiring connector problem or, more likely, the sensor providing the data it's supposed to due to an engine driveability problem. If that's the case, proper diagnosis is required rather than throwing parts at it. Read the DTC descriptions here:

    http://www.troublecodes.net/OBD2/Pcodes.shtml
  • italia79italia79 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    I know this is a little off topic but I'm wondering if someone can help me. I drive a stick-shift, Volkswagen Golf and I've noticed that the stick-shift is noisy each time I shift. I can no longer shift silently, now I hear sort of a squeaking noise. I don't know if this is a minor issue or if it could be attributed to the clutch or transmission?? I have no trouble shifting, but the noise over the past couple months worries me. Does anyone have any ideas.... Thanks.
  • amihariaamiharia Member Posts: 1
    I am having the exact same problem on my 1995 Camry V6 LE. My commute is only 3 miles, so usually this does not happen. What I have noticed is onlly after driving for about 15-20 miles, when I get off of the highway and brake, the RPM increases dramatically (upto 4000) and the car tends to accelerate forward. I have to drive with the brakes pressed hard from that point on. I also pulled on the side and put the car in parking gear (with no foot on the pendal) and the rpm was still very high. If I shut the engine off and start again immediately the rpm still stays high at 4000 rpm. However if I leave the car parked for about half hour and then restart then the problem goes away.

    I almost missed an accident because of this too. I told this problem to my mechanic (not the dealer) and he could find nothing wrong with the car. I was wondering if any of you got the problem correctly diagnosed and fixed it?

    btw, the AC on my car is not even working, so that is not an issue.
  • jbuntjbunt Member Posts: 1
    The AC stopped blowing cold several days ago, even though the compressor kicked on and off without a problem. Occasionally, while it is running it will get cold for a while and stop. When another car I had, Nissan, did the same thing, I fixed it by tapping on the heat exchanger under the dash-board while trying to run the AC. The problem in that case was that the valve would get stuck, and by repeatedly doing this for a while, it eventually started working normally and fine again. I cannot seem to find the heat exchanger though, so I cannot do the same thing. Anyone know if this could be the same problem, and can tell me how to get to the heat exchanger?
  • hrs2hrs2 Member Posts: 3
    Thermostat about $15
  • a58a58 Member Posts: 15
    Well, just hit 5000 miles and time for first service. First, let me start by saying I love this car. Having 3 problems though and waiting to see the outcome. Dealer will need a couple of days to resolve so I will post again when I get the car back.

    1. The top will not close correctly. The passenger side is out of alignment and will not lock unless I go outside the car and force it too.

    2. The rubber striping around the front windshield comes off.

    3. the paint sealant form that Toyota put on is coming off the front hood. i live in Tampa which gets fairly hot but the car is garaged both at home and work so the sun does not beat down on it too often.

    While the car is in the shop, I am getting the XM radio installed. has anyone done this and if so, are you happy with the results?
  • xiongwjxiongwj Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone have similar problem?

    The garage says the computer is not ready for the inspection, so it failed to the inspection. They claim that the battery may be disconnected in 2 weeks, so the data in computer is lost. It is weird because the car was never has problem or disconnect in one year. What could cause the problem with inspection for " computer not ready"?

    Thanks in advance.
  • r8dojocr8dojoc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 toyota camry. has 170,000 plus on it. I am wanting to change the tranny oil myself. is there a filter inside the pan and any helpful tips would be great
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