Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

210delray · August 2005

I'd assume, without knowing more, that there's something amiss with the security system.

210delray · August 2005

I don't know how much it would cost. Perhaps your best bet is to call a few repair shops in your area and find out that way.

But also keep in mind that the problem may NOT be the sway bar bushing. When you take the car to the shop, you should just describe the symptoms in as much detail as possible and let them figure out what the cause is.

Karen_S · August 2005

This article may be helpful for you.

Getting Some Lemon-Aid From Your Lemon Maker

210delray · August 2005

More information is needed. I assume you bought a new Camry. I never bother with extended warranties, figuring they're a waste of money for reliable cars like the Camry.

It wouldn't surprise me that rentals aren't covered for relatively minor issues like rattles where the car wouldn't have to be kept overnight. Is this a Toyota extended warranty or one supplied by an aftermarket company?

Could you arrange for a friend or co-worker to pick you up when you leave the car for service? Does the dealer offer a free shuttle service to in-town locations?

cold_in_town · August 2005

yes, i bought a new carmy LE 10days ago, and bought the extended warranty at the same time. this warranty is bumper to bumper one and includes the rental and road services.

I thought if the rental is free, why not use it instead of bothering friends to pick me up.

the rattling is not biggie, but i wouldn't expect a 10 day old car has this.

redlights_80 · August 2005

I just bought a 2000 toyota camry last week...I had it checked out by my mechanic and he said it was in good shape and there wasn't anything wrong with it...I noticed a couple of days ago that when I first turn on the car the check engine light, battery light and another light that looks like water dripping out of something light up, they dont stay lit but they light up briefly when the car is turned on....now I admit I know absolutely nothing about cars and I dont know if this is normal or if there is something wrong with my...it has been driving fine and there is nothing else to make me supsect something is wrong...

toyotaken · August 2005

When you're turning on a Camry, most of the indicator/warning lights light up for a moment just to make sure they're all working. That is not an indication that there is anything wrong, just the opposite. If you have any of the lights come on other than just when you turn it on, you want to look into them more closely.

Hope this helps.

Ken

slim2 · August 2005

I bought a used 02 Camry LE 4 cylinder with 30,000 miles and the previous owner has not change the coolant or transmission fluid. Does anyone know at what mileage they should be changed ?

210delray · August 2005

I don't know about the 2002 specifically, but for the 2004 and 2005, the coolant used is Toyota Super Long Life and doesn't need to be changed for 5 years or 105,000 miles.

The transmission fluid on 2004 and 05 models does not have to be changed at all if your car is not used under Toyota's "Special Operating Conditions." See your owner's and maintenance manuals for more information. If you don't have the manuals, ask a Toyota dealer, but be firm and make sure they give you the factory recommendations.

fredson · August 2005

I have the 1995 Camry Lumiere with 1.8 engine 4 cyl. auto with climate control system, on the start a/c works very good then after some time getting less & less cooler on the end just blowing normal air but the compressor still engage and looks like that some device just by passing the system, another problem observe
is when you leave the car under the sun for sometime and when you want to use the a/c after starting specially noon time a/c does not work but the compressor again is engaged ,Icould not figure out who controls this trouble some sensor?
thermostat?? bring to one A/C shop but could not find as well the problem.
Traveling in the long distance a/c works little bit longer than in city driving .
Needs help disperately

fresh2def05cam · August 2005

Hey!!! I have a 2005 Camry SE. Does anyone know where to get the LED flashing lights on the side view mirror???? I need ASAP thanks!!! SOmething like this Image hosted by Photobucket.com

but in silver !!!!!">

ricarey · August 2005

I could be the IAC valve. Sometimes this can be remedied by cleaning it out w/ throttlebody cleaner. I would try to clean it first and see if the idle improves, otherwise you may need to replace it. For a '99 it costs a little over 200 for the part and about an hour or so of labor. The mechanism of the IAC valve gets all dirty and eventually doesn't work properly. Another method is just to give the car gas when you start it...which is fine for those not using remote start. If you don't mind treating your car like it has a carburetor that's a decent solution.

user777 · August 2005

yes as toyotaken has indicated, the fact that the indicators come on and go off during the start cycle is a good thing. imagine a warning indicator that doesn't light when there's a real problem, because there is something wrong with the indicator!!! it wouldn't serve much purpose would it?

since you admit to not knowing much about cars, my sincere suggestion would be to look in the glove box for an owner's manual for the vehicle and if you find it, take some time in a quiet place to read it cover to cover.

since your 2000 is used and the owner's manual may be absent from the vehicle, i'd recommend that if it cannot be located, hat you either contact the manufacturer or you perform a google search to see where you might purchase one for a reasonable price.

some people may believe it isn't necessary to read their manual and perhaps only consult it when there seems to be a problem...

to fully understand your vehicle and to be prepared for signs of trouble, you can't go wrong thoroughly familiarizing yourself with the purpose behind each dash indicator, the recommended maintenance intervals, location of various fluids, etc.

an owner's manual isn't expensive, and reading it could save you many multiples of its cost over the period of your ownership. consider also that your safety and the safety of your passengers may come down to your recognition of a problem, or proper maintenance of your vehicle based on what you learn from the book.

210delray · August 2005

Did you call 9-1-1?

Sounds like a true emergency here!

210delray · August 2005

Couldn't agree more about reading the owner's manual. That warning light with what looks like water drops coming out of a container is your low oil pressure warning light. (It's supposed to depict oil dispensed from an old-fashioned container.)

It that light ever comes on while driving (not on startup), you had best stop the engine as soon as possible or you will be looking at an engine replacement!

rdavis4 · August 2005

My AC works fine for about 2 minutes when I start my car, then it shuts down and the light starts flashing on the button. After i shut the car off and turn it back on, it works fine again for about 2 minutes. Please help?????

storm4 · August 2005

Wife drives an 02 camry (4cyl)

It smokes for a few seconds (out the tailpipe) at startup.

Large light blue/white cloud that has dissipated by the time she backs out of the garage.

Why is it doing this?

Thank you very much, you fellers seem nice and smart.

couchman · August 2005

I have a 98 camry LE with 4 cylinders. I want to replace the spark plug by myself. The problem is I can't find the spark plug torque specification. The Haynes maual says it should be 13 ft/lb. The Denso double platinum I bought says it should be 15-22 ft/lb. And my owner' manual doesn't say anything. Which number should I follow?

Another questions is whether I need to use anti-seize. Some sources suggest it is a bad idea because it would mess up the torque.

I am new to maintenance. Any help is appreciated.

alcan · August 2005

Valve stem seals.

alcan · August 2005

"Which number should I follow?"

Use the spark plug manufacturer's specs.

"Another questions is whether I need to use anti-seize."

Absolutely not.

lma52 · August 2005

I've done numerous tuneups on many cars for the past 35 years. When tightening a spark plug, torque is not as important as properly seating the metal gasket against leaks. Most plug mfrs. recommend about 1 to 1-1/4 past hand tight (zero clearance, or when the gasket first touches the metal seat). If you tighten 15-22 ft-lb per Denso it should be fine. You can check this by tightening with one hand while standing normally without bearing down on the socket wrench, you shouldn't need to do more than this. I would also use anti-seize (small amount enough to lightly and evenly coat the threads) as it will be easy to remove the plug later. The anti-seize should not affect the torque.
Regards,
LMA52

larry2628 · August 2005

Just bought a used 2003 Camry last night. The car didn't come with an Owners Manual and I have a couple of questions regarding the headlight and DRL operation. I'm sure this car has the Auto headlight feature but I can't seem to figure out how to enable it. The control stick on the left side of the steering wheel has several different settings that you can select. There's DRL, DRL Off, Lights and maybe another. When I select DRL and it is dark, only the running lights come on. If I select Lights and it's dark, the lights come on but so not shut off when I shut off the car. Can anyone tell me how these things work? I traded in a Pontiac that had this feature and I don't believe I ever changed the setting - thanks

another_person · August 2005

If you have the auto headlights, all the way forward should be auto headlights with DRL (DRL all the time, and headlights when it is dark enough). The lights will turn off after a few minutes (I think 5) after you have gotten out and locked your car.

alcan · August 2005

"When tightening a spark plug, torque is not as important as properly seating the metal gasket against leaks"

Unless it's a tapered seat plug.

"Most plug mfrs. recommend about 1 to 1-1/4 past hand tight (zero clearance, or when the gasket first touches the metal seat)."

Which would guarantee the plug would snap or pull the threads out of the cylinder head.

"I would also use anti-seize (small amount enough to lightly and evenly coat the threads) as it will be easy to remove the plug later."

Most vehicle manufacturers specifiy no coatings on plug threads because it can adversely affect the heat transfer characteristics of the plug, causing it to run hot and promote pre-ignition. Most times a stuck plug isn't caused by thread bind, it's caused by carbon buildup on the end of the plug threads protruding into the combustion chamber. A dose of combustion chamber deposit cleaner such as GM Top Engine Cleaner takes care of it. Weekend warriors and hacks like to use anti-sieze on the threads based on the mistaken assumption that it'll make removal easer later on.

Here's a quote from the '99 GM G Platform manual:

UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental coatings (paints, greases, or corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or components, or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener or component torque and clamping force, and may damage the fastener/component.

210delray · August 2005

I agree totally with alcan on not using anti-seize on spark plugs.

Toyota's own spec for the spark plug torque (I had a '97 Camry 4-cylinder) was 13 ft-lbs. Obviously, if you go with the lower end of the Denso recommendation (15 ft-lbs.), it won't be much different.

210delray · August 2005

Yikes! This is the first time I've heard this happen with the newly designed 4-cylinder, which was first used on the 2002 models. Alcan is right -- it's the valve stem seals.

I had the problem happen twice on my '97 Camry, the first time at 57K miles (repaired under warranty) and again at 102K miles (did not repair, sold with disclosure on eBay at 111K miles).

Oil in the top of the engine (under the valve cover) seeps down through the worn, hardened valve stem seals into the cylinders overnight. When you start the car in the morning, the oil is burned, resulting in the blue cloud.

If your car is out of warranty (5 years / 60K miles), isn't noticeably consuming oil, and doesn't smoke at other times, I wouldn't worry about it. I don't think you'll have a problem with emissions testing at this point (if you have such testing).

And I thought Toyota had solved this problem with the new engine!

210delray · August 2005

If your car doesn't have auto headlights (I think only the XLE model had them that year), then the 4 switch positions are as follows:

DRL off: no lights at all (not recommended)
DRL: only the daytime running lights are illuminated when engine running and parking brake off. The DRLs are the high beams operating at a lower intensity.
Parking lights: DRLs plus parking lights and taillights are illuminated
Headlights: Headlights plus parking lights and taillights are illuminated (DRLs are off). Normal high beams are selected by pushing lever away from you.

If you leave the switch in the headlights-on position when you exit the car and remove the key, all lights will automatically turn off after 30 seconds (but seems forever). You should not do this if the car is to be left for more than a week (could run down the battery).

newbert · August 2005

I have a '92 Camry V6 XLE. When I'm driving and it redlines it acts like it doesn't know what to do. It starts to shift then it hesitates. If I let off the gas just a bit it will easily shift into the next gear. This is an automatic mind you.

Anyone had a similar problem, or have any insight in what it maybe?

Other than that I have no porblem with the car what so ever. It runs great. As long as I let off the gas just a bit before redline I can avoid the problem. It only has 105,000 on it. Please help me.

210delray · August 2005

Is this a new problem, or has it always done this?

If I may ask, why are you revving an automatic to redline?

Seems to me the easiest solution is to do what you've been doing - ease off the gas before redline.

Beyond that, I do not know what may be causing this problem.

snhoj2u · August 2005

Will, those black boxes, as you call them, are the coils. You will see 3 of them. Each coil fires a front and a rear plug on your V-6. The smaller wire you see is the trigger mechanism so that the plugs fire with the correct timing. If you remove the coil you'll find the plugs located underneath...simple, clean, and efficient.

Be careful when you remove the plastic clips going to the rear plug wires from the coils as they break easily.

iraqicamryguy · August 2005

Dear Sir how are you I got camry V6 XLE 2000 and it got a traction control system and I think there is a problime with it becaues the the (trac off) light is on, so if you can help me with anything like example to recommend a book or manual for maintenance because I live in (Iraq-Baghdad) and we don't have a specialist people work on that we just have some regular mechanics but I dont want to take it there before your advice, am ready to replace it if I have to and I have friends and relative in US so I can ask them to send me any thing from there, I appreciated any help from u and any one like to help and thank you

alcan · August 2005

The usual cause is either an engine driveability problem, or a defect such as a wheel speed sensor. Unfortunately, diagnosing that problem will be virtually impossible without having access to a scan tool which will access any stored diagnostic trouble codes in the vehicle's onboard computers. Somebody somewhere there must be servicing newer vehicles and have access to a scan tool.

oldsarge59 · August 2005

Having problems filling the tank with gas. Have to put gas in VERY SLOW or it backs up in the neck and shuts the pump off. Toyota service tech said (if I understood him correctly) it is some type of charcoal filter that is clogged up. The tech also said that it is very rare for this to fail. Estimated cost of repair is at least $450.00. Any info or help is appreciated.

midorigal · August 2005

Hello Everybody and Toyota Ken again!

My Camry is only about a month old and I've got around 1200 miles on it. I noticed just the past few weeks that there has been this rattling/tapping/rubbing sounds coming from the driver's side back seat area. I am sure the noise was not there when I first drove it home. I've checked to make sure the seat is properly closed, I've moved stuff out from the trunk, I also checked the safety belt and make sure nothing's rubbing. It is the weirdest thing. Very annoying as well because once I notice it, I can't seem to hear anything else!

Any idea why the noise is happening? Has it happen to anyone else? I'm trying to make an appointment with the dealer and I just hope they can hear it too!

Thank you for any insights!

clocker · August 2005

When I turn my steering wheel sharply in my 2003 Camry LE, I sometimes here a grinding sound. I think it's more pronounced the faster I turn the wheel. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there a TSB out on this? What fix did you use? My car has 45,000 miles on it, so I doubt my dealer will cover this under warranty. Over a year ago, I was getting a squeal when I turned the wheel, and I think the dealer did some lubrication to fix that problem. Thanks.

migly2 · August 2005

Thanks for mentioning this problem. I have the same car with 30k-miles and have the same steering problem. I will appreciate to receive some advise or maybe quick-fix on this.

210delray · August 2005

Be ready for some frustration when you take it to the dealer. They absolutely HATE to deal with rattles, squeaks, wind noise, or water leaks, because they are difficult to find and difficult to fix. Make sure you accompany them when they take the car out.

Be prepared for "that's normal," "they all do that," or "I don't hear anything."

Maybe before you see the dealer, you could try driving with the left or both rear seats flipped down to see if you still get the noise. Also, have you checked as to whether the spare tire or the board just above the spare that holds the tire changing tools is tight? At the same time, you may want to see if the jack is tight (under a small cover in the right side of the trunk). Your owner's manual explains how to tighten everything.

chryseis28 · August 2005

Hello! I'm about to become a new Camry owner--a used 04 XLE w/ 7500 mi on it. I test drove it and the brakes seemed squishy and soft--more so than my 96 Tarus wagon. Is there any way that this issue can be resolved (either through tune-up or replacement of something)? The car is under warranty, but I am unsure whether the car is standard brakes or ABS. Also, Consumer Reports reported that the 05 Camry received a poor crash test rating when side curtain airbags were not installed--does anybody know if this is the same for the 04 (the 04 wasn't rated), and if so, can side curtain airbags be installed post manufacturing? Your information is greatly appreciated!!

lazarous · August 2005

Our 1993 Camry's both front windows stopped working 4 years ago. Then the radio, the horn and the over head stopped as well. What could be the reason? Thanks

iraqicamryguy · August 2005

Sir thank so much for reply and if I could do scan for the onboard computer and got the error type I mean the code and send it to u do u think that will help u to know the type of problime because here in Iraq they can do that, and I already did scan for the onboard computer and after that scan the check engin light turn of and the traction system also but after day or less (check engin) light and (trac off) light appear again that's mean I got problime some where so I will go to the michanic again and let him do scane and this time I will ask him to give me the codes to send it to and thanx again for ur help

alcan · August 2005

If the check engine light was turned off and the codes erased, but came back on, there's a hard fault somewhere. Post the codes and we can go from there.

midorigal · August 2005

Hello 210delrey,

Thank you for your response. After posting this I saw the Camry rattles board and read through other's sad experience. I had to cancel my appointment with the dealer because the noises stopped (typical) and right after I cancelled it, it's starting a little again. I will definitely check out your suggestions this weekend. Hopefully, it's just a little matter of something being loose.

Again, thank you for your time!

phd86 · August 2005

Not good:

that's a sign that your engine is cooked (worn rings/pistons/cylinders).

My guess is you ran it sometime on either low oil, old oil, low coolant, leaky coolant, bad water pump, bad oil pump. It only has to overheat once and the engine becomes toast. It will probably run for awhile but will likely fail smog inspection before it dies completely.

trade it in....I would feel bad selling such a car to an individual myself.

for your next car, change your oil every 3,000 miles or 6 months, whichever is sooner, and check it every fillup (in case of leaks). Sometimes the stuff gets bad (dark, loses viscosity) even before then.

210delray · August 2005

I've said it before, and so has alcan, who certainly knows what he's talking about. It's the valve stem seals, almost certainly. So please don't take phd86's comments seriously. Your engine is NOT about to self-destruct.

Also, cars don't generally need oil changes every 3000 miles anymore. Check your owner's manual.

210delray · August 2005

Some people do claim the brake pedal feels soft. There is nothing that can be done about it.

ABS was standard on XLE models of the '04 Camry.

I'd strongly recommend getting side airbags. All '02-'05 Camrys without side airbags rate poorly in the IIHS's side impact tests. In fact, there is no car tested by IIHS which has scored above poor in these tests when side airbags have not been present. (A couple of small SUVs earned marginal ratings without side airbags.)

Side airbags cannot be retrofitted.

Why not buy a new '05 or '06 Camry and get the side airbags? If you get a lesser model (SE, LE, or Standard), maybe you won't even have to pay much more.

210delray · August 2005

I suppose it could be the charcoal canister in the fuel system, but I really don't know for sure. Are they saying there's a filter in the canister, or that the entire canister must be replaced? Even if it's the entire canister, I'm surprised it costs so much.

I think you ought to get a second opinion before shelling out that much money.

chryseis28 · August 2005

Thanks for your reply! Your thoughts are the same as mine--the 04 that I'm about to buy (maybe) is being shopped for approx $20k (firm), 7500 mi on it. I'm hoping that my dealership will sell me an 06 LE V6 for just above invoice, though that soft pedal troubles me. (Total leadfoot and hard braker!). I'm a little leery about buying a car that hasn't been tested, but then again, there has been no major redesign. Honestly, I'm looking for an excellent, child-friendly, interim car until the Camry hybrids go through their 2nd gen of technology (1st gen tech due out in 07, but you probably know that). I'd buy a Prius, but the tiny back window and large blindspot area bothers me (and in most places, they're backordered about 6 mo).

But back to the original topic, if the IIHS has scored almost *every* car as poor w/o the side bags, don't you think that is something where 1) their standards are too high (any idea on what their criteria is for "passing"? I mean, there are plenty of accidents and ppl in the back seat do walk away from a total wreck) and 2) shouldn't these be standard?

Thanks again for your time--yout input is excellent!

jbkennedy · August 2005

I had the same problem on my 97 Camry and it was the valve stem seals. I had it repaired under the power train warranty. If your 02 has less than 60 K, take it to a dealer for repairs. Otherwise, try adding a can of Techron fuel additive & cleaner to your gas. This may help.

riverrunner · August 2005

This is my first toyota, purchased used with 30k now has 42k miles on it. About 3/4 of the time when I apply brakes to come to a stop my engine strongly shudders. It began when only my air conditioning was turned on. The shudder is becoming more pronounced. Now, as I check it without the air on the engine vibrates slightly. At first I thought it was the compressor causing the engine to bog down while slowing, maybe something loose under the hood, maybe a belt??? I have asked 2 toyota service techs about it and they have never heard of this happening. Has anyone had this issue and found out what the cause is? Any ideas what may be causing this?

ricarey · August 2005

I have a '99 and have also had problems filling up at certain stations. My advise is to actually tip the end of the nozzle either up or down the whole time and that has solved my problem. I think it has to do w/the shape of the camry vs. that of the nozzle.
The charcoal canister is part of the evaporative emissions system. It stores fuel vapors to later use them to assist in powering the car. This can in fact get used up but usually triggers a check engine light that says evaporative emissions system (PO441) or something like that. If you have no check engine light you probably don't need a new canister. The part itself is approx $300 and the work could take 1 or 2 hours, so 450 isn't all that crazy.

Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Toyota Camry: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions