Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

loucapri · August 2005

How did you see your car was going 56m/h while the reading was 60m/h?
Did you compare it to a GPS system also (like the other guy)?

Sound like people are trusting their GPS 100%
I think the best way to check it is to have a friend drive along side with you and communicate with phone? maybe to make sure both are going the same speed and see what happens.

I know it's hard to argue with the dealer that your car is not showing the correct speed.

imidazol97 · August 2005

The easy way is on all interstates, most highways and some local roads there are mileage posts for maintenance location purposes. AT 60 mph you should travel one mileage in 60 seconds. Use you stopwatch or your second hand. Divide 3600 by your speed indicated and that's the number of seconds it should take to travel one mileage. If you measure 52 seconds for a mile divide that into 3600 and you get 70 mph to find your true speed. Do this over a two mile stretch or repeat readings.

mcdawgg · August 2005

I have heard most cars have speedometers that read low. This is by design.

210delray · August 2005

Not anymore. Most are pretty accurate (plus or minus about 2 mph at 60 mph) these days.

Actually in the old days, they used to read high (indicated speed greater than true speed).

210delray · August 2005

I agree this is the best way to do it. But you should time your speed over 10 miles at least, to get a more accurate reading. I've found that some individual mile markers are not necessarily the proper distance apart from the next one.

Also, the phone-to-another-driver method running parallel to you will only show the difference between your speedometer and the other guy's. Who's to know which is more accurate?

ibhg31 · August 2005

I believe Toyota caliberated Camry speedometer for 16" tires. I tested my GPS unit on three other vehicles (Honda, Ford, etc.) and they were only off about 1MPH. The Garmin GPS unit I used is built for automotive use and when I was testing the speedometer it was tracking 8 satellites. Next weekend I going to test the unit on my friend's 05 Camry XLE equipped with 16" tires.

SMRENNA can you let us know as to what Toyota's response is to your survey..

Thanks

pilot130 · August 2005

Both the Free press and News have a clear policy leaning towards the home town automakers.
A significant percentage of their reader base/advertising revenue is directly or indirectly related to the Big Three.
This particular article is nothing more than a spin on something of little consequence--creative licence if you will--pointing a negative finger at Toyota and Honda.

another_person · August 2005

Why would wheel size even matter? Isn't the overall tire hight the same for all camrys? So wouldn't the distance from the center of the wheel hub to the outer most of the tire just the same? So if the tire heights are the same, then the bigger the wheel, the lower the tire profile, but the distance around the tire is the same. Different tire sizes affect the speedometer, not the wheel size. right?

ricarey · August 2005

Not to sound inexperienced, but does it matter if my tires are out of round? Other than the tires wearing prematurely/irregularly. I guess I could just take it to the tire place and get it checked and go from there.

210delray · August 2005

I don't think it's dangerous if they're not too far out of round. But if they are worn anyway, maybe it's better just to get new tires.

I still think that the balance should be checked first before you do anything else. Presumably, you have a guarantee for a free rebalance within x miles?

210delray · August 2005

You are correct in your reasoning. However, the Camry with the 215/60R16 inch tires does have a slightly larger tire diameter than the Camry with the 205/65R15 inch tires.

FWIW, I haven't checked my '05's speedometer yet (16-inch wheels), but the odometer reads about 3% below the "true" mileage based on mileposts. For my '04 Camry with 15-inch wheels, the odometer had a smaller error, and the speedometer was pretty much on the money.

ricarey · August 2005

I'll check out the free rebalance thing. It may be too late anyways. My tires arent' even a year old so I'd really like to avoid that.

camryman2 · August 2005

I own a 1992 Camry XLE V6 and checked the coolant reservoir today - it appears to be empty (engine was off when I checked). I definitely have a pretty decent leak of some reddish/brownish fluid, and the oil, power steerring and transmission fluid levels all appear to be ok. Also, I have noticed some white smoke coming out of the exhaust when I start the car. A few questions:

1. Am I supposed to check the coolant level with the car running or off?
2. Could there be coolant in the radiator if the reservoir is empty?
3. Would the position of the leak on the ground indicate whether it's the radiator or a hose/coolant reservoir leak? If not, is there any way to determine the source of the leak at home without special professional equipment?
4. What are the best-case and worst-case secnarios for this and what should they typically cost me? (I'm in Massachusetts). I could just refill the coolant, but it will probably just leak out in a matter of days.

Thanks,

Steve

sylveb · August 2005

I own a 1999 Camry LE. The A/C and the heat are not as cold and hot as they used to be (it is blowing slightly cool air). The car was still in the Park gear so I don't know whether that would change anything. But I'm wondering how I can get this problem fixed. Anybody had this problem, or knows what the problem is?

~Ben

smrenna · August 2005

I set the cruise speed at 60 and clocked the time between mile posts on PA turnpike and did it many times. I clocked 64 seconds at 60 mi/hr and dividing 64 into 3600 equals 56.25 actual speed.

210delray · August 2005

1. Either way, but when the engine is cold, the coolant should be at or above the "min" line on the reservoir.

2. Absolutely. Take the radiator cap off and check, BUT ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD, like first thing in the morning after the car has been sitting overnight. Otherwise, YOU COULD BE BURNED. The coolant should be very close to the top of the filler neck, just under the cap.

3. Possibly. But you'd have to clean off the existing fluid on the ground first, place a newspaper under the car overnight, and see where the drips are located the next morning. Even then, there's no guarantee, as the leak could start from the radiator for example, and run down one of the hoses until it finally drops off. You might want to try sticking your head underneath (engine OFF) with a flashlight to see if you can locate the source.

4. I don't know, not enough information. If the fluid is reddish brown, it most likely is automatic transmission fluid. If your coolant is green, then it has to be ATF. It's common in older cars for the transmission pan gasket to develop leaks.

However, you really should add more coolant and water (50/50 mix) if the radiator itself is low before you end up overheating the engine. Add the mixture to the reservoir and run the car until the level stays between the "min" and "max" lines. Again DO NOT remove the radiator cap itself while the engine is running and warming up.

BTW, if the amount of white smoke is minimal and only occurs at startup, I wouldn't be overly concerned.

gsturbo · August 2005

Hi there,

I don't know if you still own that 98 camry? I just had to take the battery back to Auto Parts because it was not cranking and it was still under warranty so they replace it with the 24F-5 that has 731 cold crank amp. I hope that this one last longer. I don't have my owners manual to see if that is the correct crank amp. How did that battery worked for you?

gsturbo · August 2005

Has anyone received any recall letters regarding the front suspension or suspension in general for Toyota Camry? I am the proud owner of a 1998 V6 LE Toyota Camry, but the only complaint I have is the suspension makes a lot of noise. I had the breaks replaced thinking that is where the noise is coming from, but the noise still there with brand new breaks. I am going to take the car to a new mechanic to flush the transmission fluid and do an overall inspection. I hope that the noise goes away. Any one has the same problem? Any suggestions?

pinetop969 · August 2005

I also have a 98 XLE w/V6. At around 30K miles, it started having a serious (I thought) noise in the front end. The local dealer said it was as design flaw, there was no recall, and they'd fix it for $400...but it was OK as is. The service manager said it was sorta a square peg in a round hole problem. It now has 172K and the noise has not gotten any worse (or better) over the years. Still a great car. Toyota really should do a recall though to do the right thing.

huagen · August 2005

I have a 99 camry 4cl. with 98k miles. Since I got the car second-handed two years ago, it has been very noisy under the hood, particulary around the drive belt area. Very crispy applause-like noises of about 3-4 Hz, sounding like the belt is very loose but apparently it is not visually. Sometimes metal-grinding-like noise can be heard, sounding like it is coming inside the engine. The applause-like noises are louder at idle, when the car is freshly started, and at cold weather. Strangely enough, at acceleration, the noises are much subdued. The noises gradually die away after 10 to 20 minutes driving, with only the metal-grinding noise left to be heard occasionally. The trouble is that by the time i drive my car to a dealer, those noises are gone. And I hate to send my car to a dealer when I have no idea what might be the problem. One dealer once suggested replacing the water pump, at which idea I doubted very much. Could it be the problem?

Thanks.

fran4 · August 2005

I have a 1996 Toyota Camry 4- cylinder. My air conditioner compressor clutch went out. My air cinditioner light started to blink on and off. Then my fan shut off and the window lock up. Can I by-pass fixing the compressor clutch and just fix the belt for now?

210delray · August 2005

For what it's worth, my former 1990 Mercury Sable started making ominous-sounding grinding noises while we were on vacation at the beach. I didn't think we should try returning home with the noise, so we had the car checked at a local service station. It turned out to be the water pump, which had to be replaced.

You could get a second opinion from an independent shop with a good reputation -- can you check with friends, neighbors, or co-workers for a recommended one?

hankhodel · August 2005

I've imported my 2002 Toyota Camry from the US into England. Can anyone tell me if I can adjust the headlights to meet British requirements or must I replace the headlights?

smrenna · August 2005

I think your theory is right that the Camry speedometer is calibrated for 16" tires.
I am now questioning the accuracy of the odometer. The next time I am traveling on the interstate highway with post markers I will check.
Have you check the odometer?

210delray · August 2005

You may have missed the 2nd paragraph of my post #3825:

I haven't checked my '05's speedometer yet (16-inch wheels), but the odometer reads about 3% below the "true" mileage based on mileposts. For my '04 Camry with 15-inch wheels, the odometer had a smaller error, and the speedometer was pretty much on the money.

I just checked the actual number for the odometer error on the '05 (with the 16-inch wheels), and when 40.0 miles had gone by as indicated by the mileposts, the odometer indicated 39.1 miles (just over 2% shy).

So I don't think a general statement can be made that all Camry speedometers are calibrated for 16-inch wheels.

ibhg31 · August 2005

I test drove my friends 05 Camry xle w/16" tires (I also measured the tire before I drove and noticed that 16" tires are about approximately 1" taller). On the highway Camry w/16 tires speedometer is only off about 1.5 to 1.8 miles off. (at 68.5, the speedometer was reading 70 MPH...etc.). Also I took my camry to the dealership and spoke with the service rep about the speedometer and odometer accuracy. The service rep said that they can't manually calibrate the new speedometers only thing they can do now is just make note of it on their record and he will also check with the factory rep about the odometer.
I'll check the accuracy of my odometer with my GPS unit, which as a built in odometer ( I forgot about this feature) and let you know.

occhiperonde · August 2005

My 89 V6 Wagon wasn't starting (no turnover, no lights, etc) so we replaced the battery. Then the car often required a charge or a jump to start in the mornings, but would run all day and usually start. Usually wasn't good enough so we replaced the alternator. Now when you turn the key there is a click, the idiot lights come on, the clock comes on (although it will need to be reset AGAIN), but for the first 6 or 7 tries the car won't start. Finally, as if out of the blue, it will turn over and start. What is going on?

janetg · August 2005

My 03 Camry with 22k miles has an issue with the safety button on the shifter. With the engine off and no key in the ignition, I can slide the shifter from park to any other gear, without pressing in the safety button. I cannot slide the shifter back into park. Here's how I found out. Last night, I arrived home, parked in my drive, put the car in park, removed the keys, grabbed my shopping bag and went inside. My husband, who was working in the garage at the time, came in a few minutes later. Apparently, my Camry had rolled down the drive, took out our mailbox, went across the street and stopped in our neighbor's front yard. Our drive is over 100' long and slopes down toward the street. I handed my husband the keys and he drove it back up our drive. We determined that the shifter safety button is broken. What I can figure is that when I grabbed my shopping bag, which was fairly heavy, I hit the shifter and took the car out of park. But that doesn't explain how the shifter was able to move without my pushing in the safety button. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm calling the dealer as soon as I post this message. This is very frightening.

210delray · August 2005

I'd take it back to the dealer pronto, as you are doing. The car is still under warranty. Some cars, including earlier Camrys, have been recalled for this problem.

IMHO, everyone should also use the parking brake when the car is parked, especially when it's on a slope. But, in my experience, most people with auto transmissions seem to not use the brake.

camman · August 2005

I also have a 1992 Camry V6 (XLE) and I am having an intermittent overheating problem. The car will overheat while sitting still with the A/C on, it will not overheat when the A/C off. It only happens sometimes.
The cooling fan is on when the car is running, with and without the A/C on. The car will not overheat while driving because of forced air through the radiator. The car will not get hot while sitting without the A/C on.
The cooling fan is powered by hydraulics, not electronic. I purchased a Haynes repair manual, and it said to connect a jumper wire from terminal OP1 and EC1 on the diagnostic terminal (or something like that), anyway, to check the fan. It is suppose to run at 1100 rpm's. I tried it and nothing happened. Then it says to check the temperature sensor on the passenger side with an Ohm meter. It also says to check the ECU under the glove compartment. The manual never says what to do if one or the other does not work.
I live in the California (Central Valley) where it is really hot during the summer. I can't live without my A/C while driving in the city. Somebody please help me!

pwatts · August 2005

I have a 97 Camry that had 112.0 Miles and changed the oil every 5-6.0 miles and it blew a rod when trying to start it last week. I was told that I would need a new engine. Anyone ever hearing that a 97 would blow a rod. thanks

new8 · August 2005

Hi everyone, anyone has similar problem when they start 2005 Camry with the key? It sounded like going to start but then failed. Then I turn the key again and it started. I just bought it 2 days ago. Does it sound like a usual problem to you guys? Thanks a lot for any answer!

janetg · August 2005

Thanks so much for your reply. The dealer fixed it pronto yesterday. They said they had to make an "adjustment." The Toyota folks in Torrance indicated they had never heard of the problem happening before. I have to say that I'm not nearly as satisifed and comfortable with this 03 Camry as I was with my other Toyotas. I'll be looking at other mfrs. if anything else goes wrong. Thanks again!

210delray · August 2005

You're welcome. You may want to report the problem as a defect to the government at www.nhtsa.dot.gov. If there are enough complaints, an investigation and possible recall could result.

Look under "Quick Links" and hit "file a complaint..."

And please consider using your parking brake.

210delray · August 2005

Are you holding the key long enough in the "start" position? It sounds as though you may not be. Let the engine crank a little until it starts; shouldn't take more than a second or two.

210delray · August 2005

Unfortunately, the '97 Camry (4 or V6) is one of the cars models with the engine oil sludge (gelling) problem. Did you experience any trouble with this in the past? 5000-6000 mile oil changes are on the longish side (even though the manual says 7500 miles or 6 months, whichever came first, was acceptable for normal driving conditions).

Toyota as of the 2004 model year reduced the oil change interval to 5000 miles or 6 months.

There is an 8-year extended warranty with unlimited mileage for the sludge problem. Your car could be beyond the 8-year limit, depending on when it was built. You need to show that you changed the oil at least once a year, from what I remember, to obtain the benefits of this warranty, if in fact sludge was responsible for the rod blowing.

scoti1 · August 2005

You could be right 210delaray, that this is due to sludge. The 8 year sludge policy is 8 yrs from the date of purchase by the original owner. It is first important for pwatts to see if he is within that time frame. I suggest he tale it to an independent mechanic to see if sludge was the culprit. Even if he is outside the 8 years, it can't be by much, so maybe Toyota will at least partly compensate him for this known problem (assuming it is sludge).

new8 · August 2005

Thank you so much! I think that's it. Today I held the key a little bit longer and it started fine. Thank you again!

desertsun1 · August 2005

When I purchased our 01 Avalon almost 5 years ago the rear view mirror would vibrate (shudder) after the car sat in the Desert Sun any length of time. ( 107F today) I had the mirror re-glued twice, changed once. Not much better
Took delivery of an 06 Solara 2 weeks ago, same problem-vibrating rear view mirror. Has anyone in the Southwest had a similar problem, any thoughts on a solution.
also.........added Body Side moldings from sportwing.com, they are just terrific. Also added that American tradition, pin striping. Truly sets the vehicle apart from the rest.

couchman · August 2005

I monitored the gas mileage for two weeks and it appears to be normal. And everything else you mentioned is also normal. I guess my car is ok.

wadavid · August 2005

:mad: I have recently purchased a 2005 Camry XLE V6 with power moonroof. I have noticed alot of wind noise when the roof is the the tilt position. I purchased a factory Toyota wind deflector in hopes that it would stop the noise but it has not; it fact I ended up taking off the deflector and returning it to the dealer do to while at high speed (55-60 mph) and the sunroof open I would get a vibration noise from the deflector that the service folks didn't know what the cause was or how to fix it other than get another one the try it. I have also tried to see if there is a seal or gasket missing from around the opening. Anybody who has experienced a similar problem?

insightful · August 2005

Had this problem with 89 Camry, and tested everything I could think of before I found the solution. Door switches will check good, and fuses will test ok, and even when running continuity test on wiring you will get a good continuity check to the switch. Maddening! Finally found the bundle of wires leaving the door had an intermittent "open" in one of them that went to the switch.

You have to remove the interior door panel and carefully peel back the plastic wind shield that covers access holes to the bundle of wires exiting the door. Carefully push and pull on each of the wires going to the switch until you duplicate the working/not working window condition. The wire will be broken inside the insulation, and this occurs from opening and closing the door repeatedly over the years.

Simply cut the wire at the break and strip, clean, twist together and solder the two ends of the broken wire. Then insulate with rubber tape, and you will have no further problems. Even though the wire used is stranded, it either is brittle or becomes brittle over time and occasionally causes this nasty occurence.

The reason this occurs only on temperature rise is that the wires that are still making contact slightly will separate when heated and they or the insulation expands. Cooling causes contraction, and temporary continuity.

Good hunting, and best wishes for a successful outcome.

janetg · August 2005

I just finished filing a report with the NHTSA. And I am now using my parking brake religiously. Thanks again for sharing your in-depth knowledge!

210delray · August 2005

You're quite welcome. Glad to be of assistance!

210delray · August 2005

Glad it worked out! I thought that it was something simple.

angelaroman · August 2005

I recently rear ended someone in my 94 toyota camry. Now, the frame of the car is bent back so that the latch of the hood doesn't line up. It's only off by about a quarter of an inch or so, and I've tried bending it back with the help of my brother but it won't budge. I have it fastened down with a bungee cord. I guess I will have to bring it in somewhere, but I have no idea what something like that would cost norrmally. I really don't want to get ripped off. Any advice?

210delray · August 2005

I take it you (and the other driver) are not reporting this to your respective insurance companies. If you were, your company would normally send out an appraiser to assess the damage, or depending on the company, you drive it to a central place where they do such assessments.

Otherwise, take the car to at least 2 reputable body shops for a damage estimate. Since the car is older, you don't necessarily have to fix ALL of the damage if you don't care about cosmetic items.

loucapri · August 2005

I had the same accident once in my 97 Camry. Same problem, the hood pop up. The whole job cost about $600 (but I know the bodyshop owner well). I believe if you take it to any shop, it will cost AT LEAST $1000 to $2000 (my Camry had been to different shops for body work more than 5 times so I kind of know how much it cost)

You mentioned your frame is bent. Sound like a serious fender bender to me. The shop need to get the frame back to normal and I think it cost more too.

If you are thinking about getting it fix with your own pocket, good luck because it might cost more than the car is worth.

chevymalibu · August 2005

yeah, mine too. if you turn the key and then back off as it's starting, sometimes it dies if you don't hold it one or two more seconds. Not as easy to start as our accord or my old camrys (1994's). but don't think it's a problem or issue. just hold the key a little longer.

commish1 · August 2005

Sorry Scotti I lost the website for the TSB's. Would you or anyone have the site for checking the current TSB's out for my 2005 Camry SE V6?

Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Toyota Camry: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions