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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • alexealexe Member Posts: 2
    If you still having troubles with your brakes squeeling, you might want to take your brakes off and have the rotors either turn or have them replaced. This is very common problem when rotors are turn after brakes are replaced.

    good luck!
  • alexealexe Member Posts: 2
    I would like to replaced the A/C on my 92 camry myself. I have taken the vehicle to the mechanic several times and it seems that the problem is never fix. I currently have the R12 system installed and I would like to replace it with R134a.

    Questions:
    1. Oreilly auto parts tells me that if I change it to r134a, I must also replaced the drier. Is this correct/
    2. According to the kit I must also recover the refrigerant oil before recharging the system with r134a.? is this correct?
    3. Where is the refrigerant oil store? drier? and if the AC doesn't work is that means that there is not oil.

    any help will be greatly appreciated.

    thanks
    Alex
  • chevymalibuchevymalibu Member Posts: 129
    I do my own oil changes. I see that advanced auto and the others lists the fram 4967 as the filter. That filter was on the 92-96 and 97 - 01 models but the one on my 2005 is about an inch longer. Purolator #L14477 seems to be the exact replacement. Also, advance auto brand (made by fram), is AA4386 (the match to purolator's L14477) but not AA4967 which is the match to frams PH4967. I'm sure both fit the threads and work but why would there be two different sizes listed for the same car??? doesn't anyone cross reference or check this??? I measured the one on my car and it's identical to the purolator (which I bought 6 on sale). I don't want to buy it at the toyota place cause they are more bucks and someone makes it for them (not sure who but it's a name brand for sure). I already have to buy trans fluid at the dealer cause they scare you like honda if you use dexron III. Thanks in advance if anyone has changed theres and replies back with what oil filter they bought.
  • jean10jean10 Member Posts: 1
    I have a second-hand 89 Toyota Camry (100K mls) which ran great since I have had it (4 yrs now) but all of a sudden it started to vibrate and then make noise under the hood too. The noise does die down after awhile. Checked it out and was told it was an engine problem although it is getting oil. The oil light does come on. That the car might last 2 wks to 2 yrs. He could not say. Does anyone have a clue as to what's wrong?
  • johnxyzjohnxyz Member Posts: 94
    alcan - Thank you for your insightful response. You nail it - it must be one of the other factors you referenced.

    I started it up last night after work and the engine struggled but did turnover and start. There was a strong smell of either unburned fuel or exhaust. Is this teltale of anything?

    I plan to drive (or have it towed) to a service station for a diagnosis.

    Thanks again, John
  • uncle2uncle2 Member Posts: 1
    my 2005 camry 4 cyl le has a ticking or tapping noise only when accelerating. I test drove another automatic and heard the same noise. The manual did not have the noise.

    Any follow-up on your previous problems?
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    "Questions:
    1. Oreilly auto parts tells me that if I change it to r134a, I must also replaced the drier. Is this correct/
    2. According to the kit I must also recover the refrigerant oil before recharging the system with r134a.? is this correct?
    3. Where is the refrigerant oil store? drier? and if the AC doesn't work is that means that there is not oil."

    1. Yep.
    2. Yep - and R-134a takes a special synthetic poly-alkylene glycol ("PAG") oil only. The stuff readily absorbs moisture from the atmosphere so it has to be carefully handled. Any significant moisture in the system will quickly negate whatever money you save doing the job yourself.
    3. The oil mixes with and flows with the refrigerant in operation. Usually if A/C doesn't cool down properly it's because the system's low on refrigerant or contains moisture.

    R-134a refrigerant is not as effective a heat conductor as R-12 ("Freon"), so for a car as old as yours, you may not be happy with its cooling efficiency if you live in an area subject to blistering heat. (Cars designed with R-134a in mind have larger condenser and evaporator heat exchangers to cope with R-134a's lower heat conduction efficiency.) There's an alternative refrigerant, HC-12a, which is environmentally friendly, conducts heat even better than old R-12, needs no equipment updating and is compatible with regular R-12 type oils.

    Finally, Alex, it sounds like your 14-year old car has a slow refrigerant leak that MUST be properly traced and fixed before you do anything else or you will never obtain the cooling effectiveness over the long term you're after. A/C may be a money pit on that car.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    We've covered this before. For the 4-cylinder 2002-05 Camry, the Purolator L14477 is the correct one. The previous-generation (1997-2001) Camry used the Purolator L14476. Note that the Toyota OEM filter has better defined flutes, so it's easier for an end-cap style wrench to get a better grip when removing the filter.

    From what I've read, do NOT use FRAM filters!
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    "From what I've read, do NOT use FRAM filters!"

    I've read the same thing over at a motor oil forum. The "terrible" consequences of using FRAM oil filters seem to be criticisms of their construction details unrelated to actual, verified engine damage directly attributable to the use of FRAM oil filters. Indeed, I've not come across any product liability lawsuits filed by contingency sharks about damage to engines, either - and if there was a buck to be made . . . The worst I can personally say about FRAM oil filters is they're overpriced by about a buck. Ironically, FRAM is one of two sources Honda uses for Honda labled oil filters. (If a Honda oil filter says "Made in Canada", it's from a Canadian FRAM factory.) I bought one of these FRAM Honda filters for my '96 Accord from the dealer, but never got around to using it. After I bought my current car ('03 Hyundai Sonata V-6 - Hyundai conveniently uses an oil filter that's compatible with filters for Hondas.) I used the FRAM-made Honda filter on it. Nothing happened - no funny noises at start-up or flickering oil pressure light as the FRAM bashers insist happens frequently. When I changed the oil and filter the next time, out came my trusty hacksaw and I opened the FRAM-made Honda filter up. The dreaded separation of filter media from the dreaded cardboard endcaps had not taken place as promised by the hysterics on the oil forum, nor were there any rips in the pleated paper as also promised. Would I intentionally buy a FRAM oil filter again? No - as I said, they're overpriced compared to Purolator and Champion-made filters.
  • chevymalibuchevymalibu Member Posts: 129
    sorry if I asked this question again. I agree that the Purolator L14477 is the right one and that the flutes aren't a perfect fit but once I get the origonal one off (they're always on so tight), the next ones won't be a problem.

    But, don't you wonder why they listed the purolator equivalent of 14476 (namely the fram's 4967) as okay to use on the newer models????

    thanks again for your reply.
  • chevymalibuchevymalibu Member Posts: 129
    yeah, they arguement is in the glue used to connect the pleates to the cardboard end caps vs. better end caps for the other brands. I've used frams a very long time and even have used some advanced auto filters (2.50 each or sometimes buy one get one free) and they're made by fram. I've never had an engine problem from a fram but with my new honda and new camry, I only buy purolators (pep boys brand is made by purolator and is a little cheaper). napa's made by wix are good but I haven't bought any of those yet as they are higher priced. Thanks again for the discussion.
  • sanantonesanantone Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Camry XLE, 40K miles. About six months ago, the driver's door lock failed to work with the key fob or master door lock control; it would only lock manually. My mechanic could fix it only by replacing the door lock/latch assembly, about $350. Then one month later, the same thing happened to the front passenger lock. Another $350... Everything is working fine now, but I have two more doors. :-) The mechanic had not seen this with the current generation of Camrys. Has anyone else had this happen? Was there some fix other than replacing the whole latch & lock assembly? It seemed odd to have this happen to two different doors over a one-month period. (FYI, I have an excellent independent shop that did this work, so I don't doubt their work.)
  • psciortinopsciortino Member Posts: 22
    The rotors were turned and the pads were replaced after 8 months of squeeling. They continue to squeel. I've given up!

    Thanks for your help.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    I think Toyota oil filters labled, "Made in USA", are also sourced from Purolator. Purolator Filters' parent company, ArvinMeritor, is a supplier to a number of foreign and domestic auto manufacturers in the U.S. OEM market. In most cases these are simply relabled Purolator PremiumPLUS oil filters, but in some cases they're manufactured to the individual contractor's specifications. Pep Boys' "ProLine" oil filters are relabled Purolator PremiumPLUS oil filters sold at a sensible price.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    Do you have any links and data to show the the PepBoys oil filter are exactly the same as the Purolator PremiumPlus filters.

    Another store loves to say their product is the same item as a brand name transmission filter. I'll buy the Purolator and put it in MY car, thank you. How do you know there is not a quality shortcut taken to reduce the manufacturing cost?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • cruising1cruising1 Member Posts: 1
    have 2002 4cyl Camry which pulled to right since new. alignment at 22k miles failed to correct so rotated front tires at tire dealer suggestion and still pulled no matter what kind of road. dealer said Camrys are very subject to "camber steer" in other words they follow the crown or slope of road. changed from low quality (worn out at 25k miles) Goodyear Intergity tires to Falken Ziex ZE 512 tires and car still pulled right. Ziex tires replaced under warranty at 4k miles! due to uneven wear. replaced with Michelin HydroEdge and I love the improvement!!! NO PULLING - steers dead straight. fabulous in Florida's heavy rain. very tight sporty road feel and steering. Camry OEM tires are junk and won't steer straight.
  • alp2alp2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 camry 4 cylinder with 190k kilometres on it - this car has been babied by me - I am the original owner. Oil and filter changed religiously every 3000 kilometres , car is tuned regularly and it has never been overheated, belts changed on time and valves were done at about 150 k kms. Most of mileage is highway. I was driving at 120 kms per hour (70 mph) - temperature was 30 degrees centigrade (90 degrees fahrenheit) suddenly heard a ticking , slowed down to about 5 kph and then the engine seized. Has anyone else run into a similar problem - dont expect this to happen to an engine which has been well maintained.
  • motownusamotownusa Member Posts: 836
    This is just a theory but has your timing belt been replaced during this time? 190,000kilometers is almost 120,000 miles and if the timing belt has not been changed it very well could be the belt snapping.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Unfortunately on the lower line Camrys (Standard and LE), cheap tires like the Goodyear Integrity are used. The XLE uses either Michelin (treadwear rating = 400) or Bridgestone Potenza (treadwear rating = 160). Guess which ones I have on my 2005? :(

    But since I have steel wheels, and most XLEs don't, I didn't trust the dealer to swap the tires off the rims when I bought the car, so I'm hoping for the best. They do handle fine, however.

    BTW, the '04 Camry LE I gave my son had the Goodyears, and I didn't have any problems with them. But before he drove off for CA, I replaced them with virtually new Hankook Optimo tires I got for a good price at work (treadwear about 380, traction A, temperature A).
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    He said he replaced the belts, which I assume includes the timing belt. Why a bearing failed I guess is the luck of the draw.
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Member Posts: 52
    Hey,

    Yet again my 1995 Camry 2.2 LE has a problem. We recently (about 2 months ago) put a new radiator in it. Now with 171k it is leak power steering fluid to the point where it goes through a reservoir a day. What could this be and is it gonna be expensive. There is a leak that I saw one day while changing my breaks on the driver side. It was a drip but must have gotten worse. What is it???? THANKS IN ADVANCE and Happy Motoring!!!!!
    :sick:
  • carintunecarintune Member Posts: 1
    The inside release lever was working fine, then abruptly would no longer open the trunk. Remote fob opener works fine. Is this a cable adjustment, or is it perhaps electrical? Would appreciate any suggestions on how to troubleshoot and repair. Thank you!
  • grumbled00kgrumbled00k Member Posts: 1
    I have a friend who has a 2000 Camry LE 6 cylinder with 15-inch tires and rims. The rims are oxidizing. They shouldn't oxidize because they are alloyed rims. Why are they oxidizing?
  • wairvinewairvine Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever figure out your High idle at start up. I have the same thing and I have replaced the temp sensor and totally cleaned the throttle body including the IAC valve but nothing helps. Still 1800 rpm until warm.
  • wairvinewairvine Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone help with a high idle at start up that last about 5 min. I have cleaned the throttle body,cleaned the IAC, and replaced the temp sensor. Still get 1800+ RPM until warm up. (96 V6 Avalon) I also tested the TPS.
  • wairvinewairvine Member Posts: 3
    Please switch to 87, Your camry does not know the difference, If you feel the change it may be time for a minor tune up or timing set.
  • chevymalibuchevymalibu Member Posts: 129
    not an expert in metallurgy but I'd assume with the right conditions, any metal will form it's oxide or oxidize. Maybe the protective surface was removed with age and or chemicals and that opened the door to oxidation.
  • chevymalibuchevymalibu Member Posts: 129
    go to car talk and search for oil filters. I'm sure you'll come up with loads of discussions. There's a link to it. Go to http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html and find a study where they tore apart the filters and rated based on construction. That study gives fram a bad rap and loads of loyal fram users balked. He states that the pep boys is just a purolator premium plus (the white filter not the blue, more expensive one). as to cutting costs??? He didn't see any from his comments.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    Thanks. I've been buying Puro, I'll pick up the PepBoys next time.

    The oil guy website IIRC determined the Fram was smaller in area for the filtration. So it filled up with fine particles more quickly.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    "Oil and filter changed religiously every 3000 kilometres , car is tuned regularly and it has never been overheated, belts changed on time and valves were done at about 150 k kms. Most of mileage is highway. I was driving at 120 kms per hour (70 mph) - temperature was 30 degrees centigrade (90 degrees fahrenheit) suddenly heard a ticking , slowed down to about 5 kph and then the engine seized. Has anyone else run into a similar problem - dont expect this to happen to an engine which has been well maintained."

    I agree absolutely with you. (if my conversion math is right, 3,000 Km is 1,800 miles - a very short oil change interval) If the timing belt let go, and IF the Camry's I-4 engine is an "interference" design (one in which open valves will contact the piston towards the top of its travel) the top end would've been torn up, not the main bearings in the bottom end. Main bearings seize for one reason and one reason only: insufficient oil pressure. As you might expect, the repair will be expensive. The real question is why would there be insufficient oil pressure to the mains in a well maintained engine? It turns out that early through mid-nineties Toyota V-6 and I-4 Camry engines had insufficient oil return from the head(s) and tended to pool oil "upstairs". Coincidentlally these engines tended to sludge up, further exacerbating the problem - and earned the nickname "sludge monsters". In short, it wasn't your fault! It was an engineering/production oversight. (Yep, it can even happen with Japanese engineering, though it's a rarity.) Toyota eventually provided a fix for new production in the form of larger oil return gallies back to the sump, and would fix customer cars out of warranty on a case-by-case basis. In the U.S. at least. But, I don't have any information about "secret warranties" over this issue for Canadian owners. Nevertheless, I strongly urge you to contact a Toyota dealership to discuss the matter. If you kept receipts for materials and maintenance at the proper or more frequent intervals, you could well have a basis for a rebuilt short block and installation labor charges on Toyota. Even lacking the documentation, you should still pursue the matter. Best of luck. Google "bobistheoilguy" and do a search on "Toyota sludge monsters". (Prepare yourself to read a LOT of posts.)
  • stasia32stasia32 Member Posts: 1
    Please let me know if you get an answer to this question. I have done extensive searching on the web, and have not been able to find an answer to this question. My husband has a Dodge Dakota, and his manual told him how to disengage the beep. I saw where someone else posted this question on another site and was just berated for not wearing his seat belt. I am not wanting it disengaged because I don't wear my seat belt. In fact, I am the person that gets on any friends of family I see not wearing their seat belt. I often make deliveries in my neighborhood of newsletters and whatnot. I get in and out of my car several times, and each time I have to hear that annoying beep going off. I absolutely LOVE my Camry, but that beep is so annoying I would have to say it would affect me purchasing another one. Does anyone know how to disengage the seat belt beep or chime, or whatever you want to call it?
  • bunnie94bunnie94 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I purchased a 1996 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, 4 door back in May. I did not realize that it had a theft alarm system until one day I was reading the information on the windows. Under the dash to the left of the driver's side is a toggle switch. However, I have no clue as to how this system works. I took it to the Toyota Dealership in my city and the mechanic told me that if I cut the switch on and the red light is on it means that the system is disarmed. My question is, How can you tell if the system is working or not. I always thought that if the light is on, it means it's working . Can somebody please help me? :confuse:
  • stillwatermanstillwaterman Member Posts: 1
    94 Camry V6 - Had trouble adding oil to oil inlet after oil change. Wouldn't flow in very fast. Found a lot of carbon particles in the oil inlet. What's going on?
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    It's called sludge* - and you got real trouble. Engine sludging in early to mid-90s Toyotas and some lower end Lexis models was an all-too-often problem - especially for owners who followed the semi-extended oil change intervals Toyota recommended for "normal service" driving (7,500 miles I believe). Toyota is aware of and has acknowledged the problem and offers owners of affected cars a fix - including a replacement engine if necessary. Get your car to a Toyota dealer and inform the service department immediately, if not sooner. If the dealer balks (some of them claim they're unaware of the defect or the warranty extension), contact Toyota USA directly. The contact infromation is in your owner's manual.

    *Engine sludge (or the more correct engineering term, "oil gelling") is a witch's brew of partially oxidized fuel and motor oil insolubles held together by a sticky mass of varnish and acids that form from overused oil and moisture condensation - literally a cruddy, gritty, grease-like consistency, but it's absolutely no good as a lubricant. Hot running engines and/or engines with inadequate oil return gallery diameter are especially subject to this problem. Toyota's engineers miscalculated on the oil return issue. Consequently, oil tends to pool in the cylinder head(s) where it merrily "cooks" from the high heat there. (the cylinder heads are where the fire is made) When the issue was identified, Toyota made a running production change that allowed for enhanced oil return from the head(s) back to the oil pan. Late 90s and later engines have been typically Toyota reliable.
  • unhappy10unhappy10 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1997 Camry with only 68,000 miles and it started having the blew smoke come from the tail pipe everytime I started the egnition. One day while the car was idle in the drive way, the engine blew up and pieces fell to the floor. I had :cry: the car towed to 355 Toyota and they informed me at first that the piston rode went thru the engine. They took the car apart and then said that the 3rd cylinder connecting rod bolt come loose and fell inside the motor causing the engine to cease. That there were no signs of oil buildup. I am not convinced because when I asked what would cause the bolt to come loose he stated that it could be because there wasn't enough lubrication. To me that means that oil wasn't getting to parts it was supposed to. The dealer wants $7,200 to repair the car. The Blue Book value is only $7,155. What can I do?
  • bumpyridebumpyride Member Posts: 2
    I also have a 99 camry with134,000 miles on it that vibrates on the hwy between 65-80mph. The vibration is intermittent. 1 out of 5 times it happens. tires are balanced wheels are aligned bearings and struts are good. Usually after I stop and leave the car sitting for a while it corrects itself. When I stopped into the dealer an owner of a 2000 camry says he has the same problem. I can drive the car for a week trouble free and then it reoccurs. Any suggestions I'm stumped
  • bumpyridebumpyride Member Posts: 2
    The 99 camry vibration feels like its coming from the right front. The steering wheel just shakes.
  • psciortinopsciortino Member Posts: 22
    Would your situation come under the engine gel warranty? See message #3954, just above your message. Did you get a letter from Toyota as I did? Call Toyota USA. Don't give up.
  • psciortinopsciortino Member Posts: 22
    Are the wheels round? Some are not.
  • duffnerduffner Member Posts: 15
    I had a serious Power steering fluid leak and my independent mechanic replaced a long, twisted hose that wraps around the engine. He says it is the first thing to fail in a Camry. He replaced it and then the pump leaked. He said this is typical also. He replaced the pump. This is the only repair I have had on my 97 and he said probably nothing else will bother me and so far, it hasnt.
  • unhappy10unhappy10 Member Posts: 6
    I was hoping that it would but the district manager is disapproving it. I am not convinced that it didn't have to do with the oil gelling because of the symptoms the car had (blue smoke and piston rode going through the engine) but the dealer said that a rod bolt on cylinder # 3 came loose fell into the motor and caused the engine to cease. No sign of oil buildup. When I asked how can a bolt come loose like that with only 68,000 miles on the car? He stated that one possible cause was lack of lubrication which to me indicates lack of oil. The dealer wants $7,200 to fix the car. Unbelievable!!!! I have written the General Manager a letter but haven't heard back from him yet. Any other thoughts?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Blue smoke may have had nothing to do with the connecting rod failure. The smoke is caused by oil seeping past the valve stem seals into the combustion chamber. When the car is started, the oil is burned and thus the blue smoke.

    Just curious, how often did you change the oil? With a low-mileage car, the temptation among a lot of people is to ignore the time requirements (change every 6 months) and go by mileage. I'm not saying you did this, but I am just asking.

    For oil gelling (sludge), there is now an 8-year unlimited mileage warranty, as long as you can show reasonable evidence the oil was changed in a timely fashion. Your car could be beyond the 8-year limit, however, depending on when you bought it.
  • unhappy10unhappy10 Member Posts: 6
    I had the oil changed every 3,000 miles or so and I provided all that information to the dealership. They never disputed that. I know about the 8-year unlimited mileage warranty and my car falls into that category because I have a 1997 Camry. That is what I am fighting for with the dealership.

    I asked the Service Manager to put the dealerships finding in writing and this is what I received today:
    "We diagnosed your car and determined that a rod was thrown through the block of the engine. The connecting rode on #3 cylinder came apart and seized the engine. Possible cause would be lack of lubrication to the engine. The vehicle will need a new short block in order to be put back in running condition."
    My question this is what could have caused the lack of lubrication to the engine? When the engine exploded, there was oil on my driveway.
  • r0de099r0de099 Member Posts: 35
    My 95 camry is due for major tune up i just need get an idea how much it usually
    cost for the complete tune up.
  • slim2slim2 Member Posts: 20
    I had a similar problem in my 2002 LE, and was told $300 to fix each door, which I refused to do. I read the program sequence in the manual, and while parked, proceeded to shift into park, which would open the locks, cut the ignition, restart, shift into drive (which was supposed to lock), and repeated this several times and the locks started to behave after several cycles. It took some trial and error, but it was as though something had scrambled my program cycle-sequence and it had to 'relearn' the sequence via my go though the steps manually several times. Anyhow, mine has been working for several months now. I almost would bet the dealer's shops know this and would just prefer you pony up the bucks than tell you.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Lack of lubrication could mean that although there was enough oil in the engine, it was not circulating properly. That's why I'm wondering if there was a sludge buildup somewhere in the engine.

    With your low miles, do you do a lot of short trips in stop-and-go traffic? If you're in the DC area, you probably must have had to deal with traffic congestion. This kind of driving would be more conducive to sludge buildup, I would think.

    Has the engine been disassembled sufficiently that the dealer could determine if sludge was present?
  • davhealydavhealy Member Posts: 4
    i have read that blue smoke at start-up could be caused by bad valve stem seals. any idea of a cost to repair?
    2000 toyota solara v6
  • davhealydavhealy Member Posts: 4
    i have found the answer in a previous forum. i will look closer in the future. thanks
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Member Posts: 52
    Hey thanks Duffner for the reply,

    Its good to know that I am not in this boat alone. About how much was the hose fix? Thanks bunches... happy motoring

    Toyoman1
  • dr_camrydr_camry Member Posts: 1
    I just got that diagnose (P0420 code) from the check engine, the car is in very good condition and has 51,000 miles on it. Will it have any impact on the engine driving it like that, I am afraid that it will hurt my fuel economy but I am not sure about that. The check engine now has been on for about 1 week and we don't have emission tests to pass here (The Dominican Republic) as a matter of fact I had to remove the catalytic converter under the car body because it was clogged and wasn't able to get one here; now I only have the other two close to the engine and it looks like they are faulty. I've looked around on the web and some ppl think it could be a faulty O2 sensor. Is there any way to shut down the OBD2 into ignoring some codes so the check engine light shuts down for good for that specific matter? Labor here is very cheap so I guess I could go and diagnose every three months or so just to check for another problem (The diagnose is only US$10) but the parts are 20 to 25% more expensive than there esencially due to local taxes.

    Thanks in advance for your help.

    J
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