Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

bildow · October 2005

I have read a lot of your postings about your camrys, I would to pass a long a tip that will help make your camry last years longer. I have talked with may toyota mechanics and have found out some of the secrets for keeping your camry running for years to come. They recommend for the cold and hot climate using synthetic oil for the cold climate synthetic oil will flow at colder temps which is important for the upper part of your motor in the valve area another area most people don't look at is the power steering fluid it also needs to be changed at least 30 thousand miles. Another area of concern is the transmission if you sit in long lines of traffic I was told by the mechanics to change the transmission fluid every 20 to 25 thousand miles due to heat and the amount of work the transmission has to do shifting up shifting down for hours on end in bumper to bumper traffic. The camry transmission is one of the best built today and so many people never service it and the cost is high for replacement. My last 2 toyota's went 370,000 miles with everything working so remember change the engine oil, transmission oil, and power steering fluid per the schedule from toyota

wwlccp · October 2005

Hi,
I noticed that a few of the lights on my spoiler went out. I was wondering if it was possible to change it myself and if i can, which bulb would i need to get? Thanks!

-Will

fitzautomotive · October 2005

Hmmm, what Toyota doesn't tell you is they're using cheap rubber bushings instead of quality polyurethane bushings in the suspension areas. I have a customer who brought his wifes car to me, a 1997 Camry LE with 79,XXX miles on it. It has horrendous rattles in both front and rear suspensions. I've to date replaced the Rear Strut Mounts, Rear Sway Links, Rear Sway Bar bushings, Rear Control Arm Bushings (Body to Axle). These cars have 3 Rear control arms and all the bushings need to be replaced in each part or you will still have a slight rattle- thump sound. Now mind you this work racks up hours on the lift, but isn't pricey as the parts go. What I'm finding out is when one part wears out it accelerates the wear on the other components. I've still to decipher the front rattle, but I am sure a set of Front Lower Control Arm Bushing and Front Sway Bar Bushings should fix the noises.

Never have I seen a "higher end" automobile use such small suspension components that utilize rubber. I personally do not recommend taking your Camry to a dealer as my customer was hit with a $1400 + estimate and was told "this may fix the noises, if not we will have to dig further and find out exactly what component is making the noise." My opinion.... why wouldn't you properly diagnose it in the first place??

Good luck to you all ! ! ! !

haefr · October 2005

"I've still to decipher the front rattle, but I am sure a set of Front Lower Control Arm Bushing and Front Sway Bar Bushings should fix the noises. ... My opinion.... why wouldn't you properly diagnose it in the first place??"

Seems to me your prior comment addressed your own rhetorical question - your tacit admission that even you may have to resort to digging further. So, what makes come from the factory with harsh-riding, creaky, urethane suspension bushings besides specialty and some European quasi-performance rides? It's one thing for a car with 79,000+ miles to have rotted suspension bushings, but we're talking about new, or nearly so, cars here. My last car, a '96 Accord (presumably with the dreaded nitrile suspension bushings), was still rattle free seven years later when I bought my current car.

lovecd · October 2005

I followed with the instrutions on replacing the turn sinal and tail light bulb and encountered the following issues:

1. I found the tail light, but how to pull the bulb? Should I simply pull it out? It looks like the bulb is quite tight.

2. I removed the plastic pin to hold the front turn signal housing, according to the instrution manual, I should rotate it toward me in order to reach the signal bulb. However, it looks hard to rotate it. I just don't want to move it so hard to cause it broken.

Can anybody share their experience on this? Many thanks!

user777 · October 2005

regarding (1), you must PUSH IN on the bulb slightly, and while its pushed in, give it about a 1/4th turn counter-clockwise. the bulb should easily come out of the socket then.

the bulbs have tiny metal posts in the bulb base that are designed to follow a groved track in the socket (the track is sort of "L" shaped with a position at the extent of the "L" to hold the bulb fast under spring pressure from the base of the socket). this "keying" also makes sure that a tail-light, which actually has 2 filaments for different functions, lines up properly with the proper connectors in the socket.

if you've never replaced one of these bulbs before, you can find them in Walmart or a local Automotive Parts store (PepBoys, NAPA, Advance Auto, AutoZone), etc.

sorry - can't help with your second question.

loucapri · October 2005

I have a 97 LE with 113K on it. I replaced my timing belt at 100K and now I feel like my water pump may need to be replaced. (small leak). I am wondering if anyone know how much it costs to have the water pump replaced? I know they need to open the timing belt cover again.

haefr · October 2005

"I know they need to open the timing belt cover again."

And therein lies the shame. Most of the cost, whether replacing a timing belt or a water pump, comes down to shop labor charges (which can be considerable when hard to access coverings, themselves often covered by other components that have to be removed first, have to be removed). Figure a timing belt probably retails for 50 - 70 dollars. Figure the price of a water pump will be 80 - 100 dollars. Then add in several hundred bucks in shop labor and shop supplies/disposal fees. You learned too late why the smart money's on having the water pump just swapped out as prophylaxis at the time a timing belt is changed. I'm surprised if the tech didn't recommend doing so. The Heisenberg Uncertainty Principal, aka, Murphy's Law - "Whatever can go wrong, will."

johnxyz · October 2005

Just did a tune-up on my Camry but I am hesitant to R&R the fuel filter (I have already bought one).

When I unbolt the In and Out lines will gas spurt out? How do I prevent gas from streaming out?

Can I unbolt the In line from the engine bay or is it usually accessed from under the car? The Out line looks easily accessible from the top of the engine bay.

I rather not go to a garage or dealer for this fuel filter change.

Thanks in advance for any step by step instructions or advice. John

hockeymom17 · October 2005

I have a 2000 Camry with 54,000 miles that threw a pin yesterday. I have had regular maintenance on the vehicle and know of the oil gelling problem. If this is the reason, how difficult would it be to prove?

stoneshi · October 2005

I just had the same problem on my 1999 Camry LE V6. I am interested in the answer to that question as well. Please help!! Thanks a lot!! :sick:

stoneshi · October 2005

My 1999 Camry does the same thing. It freaked out my wife when it first happened. But as the first reply indicates, turn the wheel (it is very hard), eventually the key will turn.

amb2 · October 2005

I own a 2000 silver Camry LE which only had 40,000 miles on it.I had it maintained regularly, new tires, just had it detailed, mint condition. I gave it to my college aged daughter this summer thinking it would be a reliable car for use during her final year at school. This past Saturday she was driving down the street with no apparent problems when she smelled burning. She pulled the car over and flames were shooting out of the hood. After running from the car, she called the fire dept. By the time they arrived, the car was engulfed with flames. They said it started with the battery. The car always started with no problem and we never touched the battery.The car is totaled. My daughter is okay. My five year warranty expired one month ago--Toyota is not taking any responsiblity. I am getting $5500.00 from insurance. I am sick about this. Thank god my daughter is okay but I doubt I will ever buy a Toyota again. The dealership told me it was a 'fluke' and I had bad luck. :lemon:

gatortam · October 2005

I own a 2003 Camry XLE (blue metallic) with tiny "pitting" all over the trunk, roof and hood. The clear coat has been literally eaten away in small spots the size of pin heads. There are no spots at all on the sides of my car. I wash the car every week and did not notice any problems with the paint until I had it waxed. The person that waxed it has done so several times before and he is the one that pointed the problem out to me. I thought it could be a chemical spray, however there is more damage on my trunk than anywhere else, which wouldn't make sense if I had been in the path of a chemical spray on the highway, etc. Has anyone had a similar problem and if so, any suggestions as to what the cause is and if I should pursue with the dealership through my warranty. I have read so many "horror stories" about the dealership not taking ownership of these types of problems, I don't know if I would be spinning my wheels to try. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

user777 · October 2005

did you look at the edmunds car apprasal for the vehicle? if it was in as good condition and low miles like you said, it's your insurance company that seems to be sticking it to you. i think the vehicle was worth more. i'm not sure it's fair to conclude toyota is sticking you. they can't replace your vehicle or fix what is beyond fixable: it's a total loss. it's not like the transmission went 1month out of extended warranty.

i think you need to research the value of that vehicle. $5500 seems a couple of grand low. i believe that would be even less that a dealer would give you for a trade.

wwest · October 2005

Both Toyota and Lexus seem to be suggesting that the use of Premium fuels will help to alleviate the transaxle downshift throttle delay sequence. Some posters have indicated that it does seem to help.

With that thought in mind has any one tried one of the various HP "boost" systems(***) that modify the IAT (Intake Air temperature) signal? These systems seem to falsify the IAT signal in a way that results in running a richer mixture than the optimum insofar as lower emissions levels are concerned.

Seemingly the same effect as using a higher octane in that the engine would be less likely to knock or ping.

***:

[url=http://www.hurricane-horsepower.com]http://www.hurricane-horsepower.com[/url]

Or search on Ebay or google for:

"progressive tuner"

haefr · October 2005

Running higher octane gasoline does not change the fuel-air ratio ("richer"), it allows the engine control computer to advance the ignition timing slightly without detonation "pinging" for increased power (marginal, but maybe "enough" in certain situations). The IAT "chips" that fool the engine control computer into supplying a richer fuel-air ratio are bogus. Additional fuel does not translate into additional power unless additional air can be jammed into the cylinders to burn the extra fuel. In the absence of sufficient air to support efficient combustion of the additional fuel, that excess fuel just goes out the exhaust pipe as partially burned pollutants or past the piston rings to contaminate your engine oil - bad for your wallet in wasted fuel, bad for the environment in additional pollution, and ultimately very bad for your car's engine.

wwest · October 2005

In any modern day passenger vehicle the A/F ratio changes as a function of engine load, loading. Go WOT, or close too, and you automatically get a RICH mixure, in the range of 12:1.

For best, lowest, emissions 14.7:1 is optimal and for fuel economy some engines will go as high as 16:1. Personally I think that latter figure is what Toyota and Lexus are trying to do by using a more sensitive knock sensor.

We all know, or ceratinly should know, that leaning out the mixture can result in engine knock/ping.

So if the aftermarket "tuner" devices work as advertised, and I for one suspect that they might, their use results in a (slightly) richer mixture than Toyota/Lexus engineers "desired", that might result in the same effect as using premium fuel, maybe even equal to 100 octane.

210delray · October 2005

To help answer question 2, I need to know what year of Camry you have.

210delray · October 2005

Do you mean threw a (connecting) rod?

If you have oil gelling, you need to show reasonable evidence of regular oil and filter changes over the life of the car. You need to present your receipts to a Toyota dealer. If the dealer performed the oil changes, then he/she will have the appropriate records.

210delray · October 2005

If it really was the battery that caused the fire, I wouldn't blame Toyota.

The original equipment battery in my then 5-year-old Nissan Frontier (with only about 35K miles at the time) "blew up" when I shut off the engine and then restarted it. There was a muffled "boom" and a puff of smoke from under the hood where the battery was located.

It didn't blow itself to bits as I had feared, but the cap over 3 of the fill holes blew off and some battery acid was blown onto the underside of the hood. I never found the cap.

Needless to say, the battery was history and the truck couldn't be started. Luckily, I was less than a mile from home and had my truck towed there.

Looking back, there were warning signs: a good deal of corrosion on top of the battery indicating that hydrogen gas had been venting at a pretty good clip.

210delray · October 2005

To me, it sounds like a classic case of industrial "fallout" -- pollution particles that settled on your car. Do you live near a large city or industrial plant? I assume the car is not garaged.

Unfortunately, you are out of luck regarding any warranty claim if fallout was the cause.

210delray · October 2005

What do you mean by Toyota and Lexus "seem to be suggesting" the use of premium fuel to fix the hesitation problem?

I can't see how it would help.

wwest · October 2005

Me neither.

But in tracking the various posts on the internet, all over the internet, involving "engine hesitation on Toyota and Lexus V6/5-speed transaxles there does seem to be this evidence.

Just as jbuchanan says he changed out a MAF that fixed the problem, with no foreseeable reason, all paths must be pursued until we find the pot of gold.

gatortam · October 2005

I live in an incredibly "green" college town in FL with no industry anywhere. My car is also garage kept. This happened within a 4 day period from the time I washed my car on Sunday to the time it was waxed on Thursday. I am at a loss as to what could have done this.

210delray · October 2005

It has to be something that dropped out of the sky, since there's no damage on the sides of the car. Acid rain perhaps? (Although I thought that was a problem mainly in the Midwest and Northeast.)

Is there a coal-burning power plant nearby? The sulfur dioxide emissions from burning the coal could add sulfuric acid to the rainwater. I suppose the plant could even be far away and the emissions carried by the wind.

gatortam · October 2005

There is a power plant within 10 miles of my house - not sure if it burns coal or not, but I will find out. Even if it is sulfuric acid in the rain, why are the spots so tiny and more pronounced on my trunk? Wouldn't that type of rain have left a few spots on the sides of my car too? A friend suggested that I bring it to a paint/auto body shop to have them assess it and see if it could have been a clear coat application problem at the plant. Do you know how the clear coat is applied at the plant? Does one machine do the top and another the sides? I know it seems far-fetched, but I've only had this car for 2 years and it has to last 10 ( like my other Camry did).

imidazol97 · October 2005

The clear coat on my 93 LeSabre had etched slightly over 9 years according to my body shop guy. He felt it was normal. Gotta keep it waxed (I had but maybe only twice a year sometimes). He said the drops of water focus sun heat onto points that help deteriorate the clearcoat along with chemicals in the air (acid rain?).

I'd check with company to see if defect in paint clear coats occurred at time yours was built.

Had car been waxed since you bought it?

gatortam · October 2005

Washed every week and waxed every 4 months since I purchased it new from the local Toyota dealership. I keep my cars for a long time, so they have to last. If I have to paint this car, it will never look the same as the factory paint job. These spots look like a mist of acid was sprayed over my car. The clear coat is literally eaten away in tiny "dots" all over the car. I am going to try to call Toyota today.

210delray · October 2005

Imidazol has a good point -- water droplets stick around much longer on the horizontal surfaces and act like tiny magnifying glasses to concentrate the sun's heat.

I understand Florida gets lots of rain showers, followed by intense heat in the summer. Add acid rain to the mix, and I don't think it would take much for the clearcoat to be eaten away. And you have a power plant nearby -- not good if it burns coal.

No point in calling Toyota -- no manufacturer covers environmental paint damage, certainly not after two years. And you're right that a repaint will never look as good as the factory finish, so I think your only recourse is to wax more often, and if possible, wipe off any raindrops after each storm.

Personally, I started using Eagle One's Wax-As-You-Dry, not as good as regular paste wax, BUT it's so easy to use, I use it every time I wash the car. So the car gets some wax protection with each wash.

haefr · October 2005

"But in tracking the various posts on the internet, all over the internet, involving "engine hesitation on Toyota and Lexus V6/5-speed transaxles there does seem to be this evidence."

What evidence - there's either a TSB from Toyota or there isn't. Anything else is Kentucky windage speculation. I noticed that the link you provided for this wonder-widget is no longer in service. Another fly-by-night entreprenure one step ahead of the authorities? Anyway, I hope you install one of these glorified rheostats and report back your experience. Good luck.

Addendum - the link you provided does work - your url had a double entry. Having successfully accessed the link finally, I'm more convinced than ever you're on a gasoline-wasting, catalytic-converter killing, wild goose chase.

(After re-reading your unnecessarily "sharp" response to my first post, I'm having another evil thought, too, but I won't engage in that speculation publically...)

imidazol97 · October 2005

Now I recall more of what my dealer body shop foreman told me about the slight roughening of the 93 clearcoat...

He said the water drops from the dew and the rain focus the sun's light and heat to a point and as the water drop evaporates the concentration of the acidity or contaminant increases which along with the higher activity due to the heat causes deterioration of the clear coat.

I didn't believe we have any real acid rain problem here in western Ohio. Clearcoats also have improved since the 93 for GM. Our 98 had a much different clearcoat.

I recall he suggested washing your car every day, tongue in cheek.

I would check wtih Toyota and check with a good Toyota body shop guy. If there is a problem verified later with clearcoats you have a better chance of compensation than with some other car companies. The body shop guy may tell you what Toyota won't admit to. Good luck.

lovecd · October 2005

It is year 97. Thanks!

haefr · October 2005

"He said the water drops from the dew and the rain focus the sun's light and heat to a point and as the water drop evaporates the concentration of the acidity or contaminant increases which along with the higher activity due to the heat causes deterioration of the clear coat."

That does make sense. Even minus acidity, the focus aspect of water droplets in direct sunlight could still conceivably lead to spot finish damage. Acidity can have sources other than industrial pollution, too. Bird droppings are acidic as are insect droppings. Mix in a little rain or morning dew, and... I read about automotive paint problems from Mercedes down to Ford Focuses (Foci?). The problems aren't confined to specific makes.

aaron_731 · October 2005

Does anybody know how to get the alternator pully off the engine block to access the water pump in an 1989 Toyota Camry? I have a matinence manual and I've tried what their picture shows, but no luck

. My next guess is to get an impact wrench to try to snap the bolt. Any ideas? Or anybody done this before? Thank you.

210delray · October 2005

Once the plastic fastener on top of the lens/housing is off (I believe you said you already removed it), you have to stand directly in front of the lens/housing assembly and pull it straight forward toward you. You do have to apply some force, but don't pry with a screwdriver or any other tool. Just use your bare hands. Once it comes off, you simply turn the bulb socket one-quarter turn counterclockwise to access the bulb.

dtownfb · October 2005

I'm glad your daughter is fine. Since you are out of warranty, Toyota has no responsibility...unless you feel there was a defect. If this is the case then have your insurance company investigate the case. They are the ones who are out the money and it is in their best interest to get to the cause of the fire.

I would report this to the NHTSA. They track these types of incidents.

haefr · October 2005

If you're describing the hub nut on the crankshaft pulley, it's one of the highest torqued fasteners you'll ever come across. If you don't have access to an impact wrench, then the proper size 6 pt 1/2" socket on a breaker bar and a couple feet of pipe slid over the handle for added leverage will probably be sufficient to "break" the nut loose. You'll also need someone to apply counter force against the pulley with an old belt looped around one of the pulley's grooves and held with long-handled locking pliers. Once you get that locking nut off, you may still need a puller to "pop" the pulley free so you can slide it off the crankshaft end. You've taken on quite an "interesting" task - good luck.

lovecd · October 2005

Many thanks! I will make one more try this weekend.

micromike123 · October 2005

I'd like to share with other car owners my experience from purchasing and driving Toyota Camry 2002.

I purchased my car from a local dealer (Brunswick Toyota, NJ) - and it was sold me as a "new" car. Soon I found that the paint on the rear bamper is getting "bubbly" after each and every rain. After many months of Toyota USA and the dealership playing balls with me, the car was finally inspected by the dealership's, and - I was told that the rear bumper was re-painted! I was even told that "its okay" since many cars are received from manufacturer with one or another type of damage and they are usually "fixed" at the dealership. And - "its okay" that they did not say a single word about re-painting in any of the papers that I've got with the car. Now, imagine: you are getting a diamond and the seller tells you: "hey, it was scratched but we polished it so it is okay now, and you have to pay a full price!"

I wonder, if there is anybody on the Forum who agrees with such statement and the way the dealer works with his customers?

Otherwise nice car, my "bubbly-paint bumper" Toyota has yet another problem. From the very first day, I have noticed that it takes a huge effort to stop the car and I have to push the brake pedal with such effort as if I am a Flinstone cartoon character! It happend so that I know some people who also have 2002 Camry with ABS, and one person has a Nissan Altima 2003 (aslo with ABS). Now, i emphasize ABS option since I was told that ABS may cause somewhat longer stopping distance. All other cars I have tested, have 10-20% shorter stopping distance compare to my Camry, and yet - I hear "its okay" from the dealership's service department.

Is it really "okay"? Or - is it a well-known situation where "once you bought it - we don't care"? :confuse: :sick:

lightngoil · October 2005

i have a 96 camry that backfires out the intake manifold it wont pass 400 rpm as if it was flooding out timing belt is right the money replaced crank sensor coolant temp sensor is fine there are no codes present only cyl #2 and 3 are working, it has good compression head job was done so valves are fine replaced injectors, it has spark and inj pulse
don't know what else to check
Please, : anybody has any advice
:confuse:

user777 · October 2005

w.r.t. the brakes, i'd say there is an issue worthy of inspection by another dealer or an independant. i thought abs may cause longer stopping distances (in general) if people don't stomp, but rather pump the brakes as they would in a non-abs vehicle.

drive the other person's Camry with the ABS. if it is taking a lot of effort in your vehicle, but not theirs, there is something wrong.

follow your instincts.

kevink1855 · October 2005

I have a 1993 Toyota V6 Camry. It seems to intermittently over heat. I changed out the thermostat.
The cooling system does hold pressure.
It will boil over.
With the radiator cap removed and the car at operating temperature I can not see the coolant circulating.
Water does not come out of the exhaust.
With the heat on I get a fog out of the vents.
Do I have two problems?
A bad water pump and leaking heater core?

haefr · October 2005

Most antifreeze contains ethylene glycol as the antifreeze/anti-boil agent. If you have a ruptured heater core, you would probably notice a "sweet" odor inside the car from the ethylene glycol* (assuming you're not running your car's cooling system on water alone). Coolant should ALWAYS be up to the lower rim of the radiator opening. In a properly working cooling system, any coolant overflow will be caught by the plasric overflow tank connected to the radiator cap opening with a rubber hose and drawn back into the radiator by the vacuum that forms in the closed system as the engine cools down after shutoff. If the coolant level is consistently decreasing, it's leaking out under pressure. Other leakage sources are a blown cylinder head gasket, a leaking radiator, a bad radiator cap, a bad seal at the thermostat housing, a bad water pump seal, and/or failed radiator and/or heater hose(s). I'm also assuming when you replaced the thermostat, you didn't inadvertently position the new one bass-ackward.

*I have no idea what the so-called low-tox antifreezes which use propylene glyclol smell like.

210delray · October 2005

I second user777's advice. ABS does NOT cause longer stopping distances, except in fresh wet snow or on loose surfaces like gravel. If your brake pedal must be pushed extra hard, again it's not the ABS. You have some kind of other problem, possibly a faulty vacuum booster.

As user777 said, how does your car compare with your friends' Camry and Altima? You're not totally clear on that point.

Regarding the bumper cover re-paint, unfortunately it's not all that uncommon for dealers to improperly fix cosmetic damage that may have occurred during shipping. You should have complained loudly the first time it became obvious. It's probably too late now for the dealer to do anything on their dime, as the car is 3 years old.

wwest · October 2005

ABS activation will always, ALWAYS, elongate your stopping distance, unconditionally.

The SOUL purpose of ABS is to allow you to maintain directional control.

imidazol97 · October 2005

>ABS activation will always, ALWAYS, elongate your stopping distance, unconditionally.

elongate relative to what?

If you're on ice and you don't have ABS, the operation of the ABS will shorten your stopping distance by keeping each wheel effectively in rolling contact with the surface and allowing maximum decelleration. Otherwise one and more wheels would keep locking up, giving no stopping power, and you would release the brake pedal then reapply and start the process over again.

The ABS can shorten the stopping distance on poor surfaces compared to not having ABS operating, but the stopping distance would be longer than on a normal dry asphalt surface.

210delray · October 2005

Sorry you are incorrect. I've personally witnessed numerous demonstrations on dry asphalt at 50-60 mph with accurate measuring equipment on board the test vehicle, and 4-wheel ABS always slightly shortens stopping distances. The chief advantage of ABS, however, as you point out, is to maintain steering ability.

On wet surfaces, it's no contest, because the ABS allows directional control, especially if one side of the pavement is more slippery than the other.

The only situations where ABS may "elongate" stopping distances is when a wedge of material (wet snow or loose gravel, for example) builds up in front of locked wheels, permitting shorter stopping distances for non-ABS vehicles. Another is on extremely bumpy pavement, where one or more tires may lose contact with the pavement altogether.

aubster · October 2005

I have a 2000 Toyota Camry. I keep the oil changed as suggested. The engine light is on and when I went to get an inspection sticker - the car failed the emission test. It said something about airflow, etc. Then they suggested that I take it to the Toyota Dealership - which really frightens me.

Can anyone shed light on what it usually cost to get emission issues cleared up so I don't walk into the dealership at their mercy?

magnum4 · October 2005

more often then not but sometimes sporadic when I start my car and give it gas it starts to sputter, like I'm waiting for the engine to kick. Last night it did it again and when I put it in park I could feel a shaking. Could this be my transmission, maybe low on transmission fluid? I just had the fuel injection cleaned out with an oil change recently and nobody said that my transmission looked bad, any help would be great. thanks.

Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Toyota Camry: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions