Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

mbitago · November 2005

Do you think its possible if I can lease a toyota 2005 camry LE with upgrade of monroof and leather and alloy wheels for just less than $280? I'm willing to pay a down of $1,000.00 12,000miles/year, for 42 months. I live in Birmingham, AL..I really wanted to buy but the basic LE already costs more than $350.00

chevymalibu · November 2005

yeah, that pissed me off. My 94 camrys (and my mom's 98) uses DEXRON III and you can get that easily at an auto store and 1/2 price. I too changed my trans fluid at first at 55-60K and then another 50K or so but after that, 25K or so till I got rid of them at 200K.

Now for my '05 camry, like you said, it uses that T4 toyota fluid at $4 a bottle I think. He said it's part synthetic and is better than DEX III. My question, can I use valvoline synthetic??? or another besides mobil trans???? Like others have said, go to the dealer and get their stuff and just do it. I like to go to advanced auto or autozone and buy their stuff and avoid the dealer if possible. My '04 Honda accord trans fluid costs $5 a quart and they say drain it, refill (3 qts), drive it a few miles, and repeat 2-3X more. That's $60 bucks of fluid to mix/replace the old stuff. Lots of good fluid getting tossed down the drain. thanks

chevymalibu · November 2005

I'd change it for sure. You don't say the mileage but I'm assuming since it's a 1999, this is the first change?? The mileage can vary from owner to owner (my '04 accord has 25K in 18 months). I've done that trans pan drop/filter change 4x in two '94 camrys and once in a 98 camry. You just tighten the bolts and it doesn't leak. I'd use dex III by pennzoil or valvoline (not store brand unless your mileage is over 150K then I switched to the cheaper stuff). Also, I changed the fluid and filter at 55K for both as the first time but then changed the fluid once more and then both filter and fluid at 120K. Once I realized that there isn't much metal junk in the filter, I just changed the fluid and that's it. the magnets in the pan and the bolt captures most metal shavings. If the bolt had a lot, I dropped the pan and cleaned it and put a new filter and gasket on. otherwise, I just dropped the fluid after 150k till 200K when I got rid of the cars. If I kept them, I'd do another filter change in the 200's. Don't worry about making a mistake. It's easy (except for putting the pan back with the bent cork gasket but I use a drop of glue to hold the corners which isn't recommended but it worked for me). My brother in law had a isuzu trooper and 50-60K miles or so. It siezed up on him (the trans) cause he didn't change the trans fluid. Change it and good luck.

chevymalibu · November 2005

don't think so. check auto zone or advanced auto. I don't think the cabin air filter hit until the 2002 models but I can be wrong. I know the 1994's didn't and I'm almost certain the 1998's don't so yours doesn't either.

haefr · November 2005

"Now for my '05 camry, like you said, it uses that T4 toyota fluid at $4 a bottle I think. He said it's part synthetic and is better than DEX III. My question, can I use valvoline synthetic???"

Short answer? Don't do it while your car's under warranty. Long answer: there's more to ATF than the base oil blend. In addition to their blend of conventional and synthetic base stocks, the proprietary fluids that are specified in most owners' manuals now have specific "friction modifier" chemistry which affects the progressive take-up characteristics of each manufacturer's proprietary friction facings against the metal friction plates during gear changes and torque converter lockup. (Gone are the days when everyone used asbestos friction facings.) Dexron IIIH and previous iterations are fine for GM and a lot of past trannies, but, to use it in cars calling for a specific ATF, at best you'd have some serious degradation of shift and torque converter lockup feel within several months. At worst, you could be looking at a premature rebuild. Since most proprietary ATFs have neither been licensed for duplication by competitive blenders to be sold through the normal retail channels, nor has the chemistry been disseminated publically, we're stuck. Fair? Perhaps not. Legal? Yep, deal with it. So-called "universal" or "all-makes" fluids that claim compatibility with OEM fluids are only their blenders' best guess. They're not licensed as acceptable substitutes. Don't feel too bad - I only wish I could get away with $4.00/qt for my '03 Sonata's automatic transmission. The Mitsubishi spec. SP-III ATF that Hyundai requires in all their transmissions made from model year 1996 runs $7.58/qt from my dealer's parts department.

amtn · November 2005

Just curious. . . what city are you in? (If you don't mind revealing.)

imidazol97 · November 2005

Read the cans. If they say they are equivalent to the T4 Toyota fluid then they are equivalent. It seems we've gotten back to the magic "have to use our product in our specially designed car" phase of automotives. I recall when people were told they had to have oil changes done at the dealer or their warranty wouldn't be honored!!!

210delray · November 2005

I disagree on the Camry for the T4 tranny fluid. I'm with haefr on this; it's not worth it to take a chance. I'm certainly not going to.

Toyota only specifies proprietary fluids for the tranny and radiator. You can still use generic oil, power steering, and brake fluids (meeting the proper specs of course), unlike Honda. And I think you can use a nonproprietary antifreeze, as long as it meets the Toyota specs exactly.

The old saying applies, "penny wise and pound foolish."

typesix · November 2005

Your cold start system needs to be looked into. 87-91 Camrys have a cold start injector and timer. The timer senses cold engine coolant and tells the cold start injector to squirt more fuel to help in cold starts. Your Camry may have the same system and the timer is common culprit. Or a temperature sensor is out of range and needs replacing.

kenger · November 2005

My Toyota has over 60,000 on it. Recently started making an annoying noise when you turn the steering wheel in any direction. I describe it as a whining sound. Any ideas?

210delray · November 2005

If it happens only once after starting, before you get up to about 10 mph, then it's the antilock brake system doing a self-check. If you have one of the 7% of 2005 Camrys with electronic stability control, you may be hearing its self-check.

Nothing to worry about. I don't hear it on my '05 Camry, but it was definitely noticeable on my '90 Mercury Sable.

chevymalibu · November 2005

I've used prestone in my two 1994 camrys for years. the only time it had the toyota red stuff was when new and when I took it for a timing belt. Otherwise it was mainly the two year prestone stuff (not the extended life but I did use that once and still drained it a few years later). one radiator did go but it was the damn plastic top not the core (why they topped an aluminum core with a plastic top is beyond me). Also, one water pump went at 165K but the other didn't (it was changed as a preventative maint when the belt was done at 170K or so). Once my warranty goes out, I'm using prestone long life which doesn't have the borates and silicates to ruin the water pump seals. I paid $12 a gallon for premixed honda antifreeze. Once it goes past warranty, I'm going with prestone there too. As for the powersteering, the honda uses a special fluid but there is an equiv in auto zone. the PS fluid on a camry is Dex III. The brakes I use a valvoline synthetic I think. For the trans, I'll probably go and use the toyota and honda mixes just cause it will cost 4K to fix a trans. What gets me is they recommend 4 flushes in the honda to remove the excess holdup fluid but the camry says just drop and replace. Not sure how much it contains or drops as my manual isn't in hand as I type but I'll do just a drop and refill with the camry. Heck, for the PS and brakes, my 1994's never had either changed or anything and I got lucky nothing wrong happened. Now I might siphon off the top and refill with fresh every two years. I really don't like when a car uses the "brand" fluids or else mentality. Like the honda oil at my dealer uses quaker state. I'd rather use and do use castrol but also like valvoline and the major brands before QS. (sorry but it has a bad rap although i've used Super tech oil near the end of my camry's life and that's supposed to be QS oil. Anyway, thanks for the discussion.

haefr · November 2005

In the U.S. SuperTech (WalMart) motor oil is not made by SOPUS (Pennzoil, Quaker State, and Formula Shell). WalMart uses two suppliers regionally for the east coast/midwest, and the west respectively: ExxonMobil for the east coast and midwest, and Warren Performance Products* in the west. (though this division may be temporarily disrupted pending the hiccup in base oil and additive supplies brought about by Katrina's and Rita's double whammy) For SuperTech synthetic blend and full synthetic motor oils, WalMart sources exclusively from Warren Performance Products nationally. SuperTech extended life antifreeze/coolant concentrate is made by Prestone division of Honeywell, but dyed blue-tinged green vs. the branded "Prestone"'s green-tinged yellow. The working chemistry of both is identical. They're both unofficially classed as a "dexcool clones" - no silicates or phosphates, and 2-ETA as the OAT corrosion inhibitor.** Take with a grain of salt the notion of not changing out any brand or type coolant for a full five years, though. But 3-4 years is probably realistic.

*Warren Performance Products blends a number of "house brand" motor oils including Sears Spectrum Motor Oil. The company also markets its own "MAG1" brand of motor oils nationwide. Confusingly WPP shares the name "Warren" with another, completely unrelated company: Warren Coastal-Unilube. WCU blends Advance Auto's and Auto Zone's house brand motor oils.

**The Japanese "Big Three" (HNT) automakers are unanimous in their insistence of OAT corrosion inhibitor, a generaous dose of phosphates, and NO silicates in their respective antifreeze/coolant formulae. Phosphates in the right concentration bring to the table three disirable qualities:
1) immediate corrosion protection on aluminum parts since it may take several thousand miles before the OAT chemistry is adequately established,
2) immediate "healing" of the corrosion resistant layer in the event the random "Mad-Max" particulate scuffs off a bit of the OAT layer, and
3) better longterm protection against cavitation damage to the waterpump impeller.

Lest anyone come away with the impression I'm condemning the use Dexcool and its unlicensed clones in Japanese engines calling for phosphate-charged OAT antifreeze/coolants, NO WAY. Personally I used GM-licensed Texaco Dexcool in my '96 Honda Accord aluminum I4 for four years with NO problems whatsoever. GM installs Honda V6 engines in the Saturn View, and uses Dexcool as the factory-fill antifreeze/coolant despite Honda's objections. I haven't heard of ANY coolant-related failures in this application. I've had the SuperTech "dexcool clone" in my Sonata aluminum V6 for over a year, likewise, with NO problems. As always, but rarely practiced, keep close tabs on the coolant level year 'round at the radiator cap, not merely the overflow bottle.

210delray · November 2005

Very interesting stuff, thanks for the info. Just wondering though, how do you know all of this?

I was always curious why Toyota, for one, permitted phosphates in their coolants, but VW on the other hand was so adamantly against them. Your explanation makes a lot of sense.

So on my Camrys (2004 and 05), it says you can go 5 years or 105K miles before changing the coolant. You said you'd change in 3 or 4 years. What about mileage, if you accumulate a lot of miles per year?

210delray · November 2005

As always, but rarely practiced, keep close tabs on the coolant level year 'round at the radiator cap, not merely the overflow bottle.

I do this on my Nissan Frontier, but not on my Camrys. The reason is that the "normal" level in the see-through reserve tank is so low on the Frontier AND no coolant spills out when I open the radiator cap. But I've always wondered, does opening it frequently allow "contamination" by outside air?

haefr · November 2005

My sources (generally online editions of trade magazines catering to radiator shops) are freely available online through Google searches. Glad you brought up the VW issue (really, a European issue). VW, Peugeot, Mercedes-Benz, BMW, and Volvo specifiy a "glysantin" based corrosion inhibitor package as factory-fill and service fill. This was a BASF development and essentially consists of OAT inhibitor and silicates. However the high-silicate levels of old Prestone (1,200 ppm) are toned down to between 250-300 ppm - an amount much less likely to come out of solution as waterpump seal-eating hard preciptates (the actual waterpump bearings are lubed-for-life, pressed-in, sealed units that never come in contact with coolant). In the U.S., Zerex division of Ashland Oil blends and markets just such a syrup under the name, "Zerex G-05".
Chemically it's an exact clone of Merceded-Benz, BMW, Volvo, VW, Peugeot, Ford, and Chrysler current antifreeze/coolants, though various marker dyes are used for brand identification. Zerex G-05 is dyed yellow. Ford's is a more intense yellow, and Chrysler's is orange. Dunno what color(s) the various European automakers' juices are, but I recently read that BMW's is dyed blue - can't verify that personally, though. The reduce level silicates do essentially the same task as the phosphates in the Japanese coolants. So, why are the European automakers adamantly opposed to phosphates? European tap water is very high in dissolved mineral content. Ideally everyone would use distilled or de-ionized water to dilute their antifreeze concentrate, but human nature being what it is, the European automakers aren't willing to take the risk that some moron would be hosing phosphate-laden tap water into a system that's also hosting phosphate-laden antifreeze/coolant concentrate. Texaco has just started advertising a new antifreeze concentrate under the name " Texaco Custom Made" and intended for late model Ford and Chrysler products. I've seen the ads in "Motor Trend", "Car & Driver", and "Road & Track". And, like Zerex G-05, it's in a gold jug and dyed yellow. Sounds supiciously like another G-05, doesn't it? I hope so - competition's always good for the consumer. (Pep Boys gets $10.99/gallon for Zerex G-05.) I haven't seen the new Texaco product on store shelves yet, though. In the antifreeze/coolant section of a motor oil forum I lurk in ("bobistheoilguy" - aka, BITOG), I have yet to see one negative post about G-05, even when used in HNT engines. Mercedes has specified G-05 for over two decades.

If you wanna go by miles instead of time, it easy to calculate. 5 yrs./105,000 miles translates to 21,000 miles per year, so 63,000-84,000, eh?

haefr · November 2005

Personally, I take a weekly looksee at the overflow bottle. But three or four times a year I remove the radiator cap before starting the engine in the morning to verify that the coolant level is right up to the bottom ring of the radiator cap opening. This also allows me to shine a flashlight into the depths visible through the opening to see whether the core is clean or developing corrosion. If I see anything suggesting the latter, the old coolant comes out immediately, regardless of time/mileage since the last changeout. The good news is that I've never seen the dreaded telltale with any of the extended life syrups I've tried. For whatever reason, coolant is the [non-permissible content removed] child of auto maintenance that many people shove into the background. Eight or ten dolar/gallon antifreeze just isn't as sexy as five dollar/quart synthetic motor oil. Yet, improper or too infrequent cooling system maintenance will have every bit as much impact on the long-term health of an engine.

mckay1 · November 2005

New (5K Miles) '05 Camry --

Intermittently (5 times in 3 wks) the ignition switch has failed to unlock the steering column -- ie the key will go in the lock mechanism, but with 'normal' tugging on steering wheel, the switch fails to turn and release the 'pin'.

Dealer has replaced the lock mechanism (2 x the 2nd/3rd key released the mechanism w/o tugging on anything) -- 15 minutes was the last 'extended period' to release --

Toyota doesn't want to open up the column and look for burrs or even examine -- Told me to park the car w/ wheels alway straight (Not reasonable in my observation)

Anybody else have this? -- Currently they're giving me a 'rental' to see how it works -- otherwise - will require arbitration to swap vehicles

redleg1one · November 2005

Fixed it!!
It was the coil. On warm days I had no starting problems, but when it would get cold the engine would kick over strong but not start up. Once I replaced the coil, it kicked right up.

michele8 · November 2005

The engine to my 1997 Camry LE died. It has extremely low mileage, 42,000 miles and this does not seem reasonable. Shouldn't the engine lifetime be much longer than this type of mileage? Would Toyota be responsible for covering this? ... such as some type of warranty? If so, who can I contact?

thanks...

haefr · November 2005

I agree - 42,000 miles is way premature for any car engine to tank (even a Yugo). I'm also assuming you didn't beat the living snot out of your engine during your years of ownership. But, Toyota Camry I4 and V6 engines of your car's era had some serious sludging* issues due to a design defect: restricted oil return volume from the cylinder head(s) to the sump, further exacerbated by the recommended 7,500 oil change intervals recommended in the owner's manuals, and made especially worse if the cars were typically used as short-trippers and/or in urban traffic crawl. Toyota has replaced/rebuilt engines due to this ackowledged problem through an extended warranty through mail notification to owners of affected cars. If you're not the original owner, I don't know whether this campaign applies. You need to contact Toyota for clarification. To qualify for a free engine rebuild or replacement because of the sludging issue, you'd need, first, to find out if your car's engine is sludged up, and second, be able to produce service receipts as evidence of reasonably timely oil and filter service. If you've had your car serviced through a Toyota dealer, your car's service history will be on Toyota's national database. If you contact Toyota's through their "800" number, have your VIN number handy. Best of luck.

*"Sludge", aka "oil gelling", is a black, sticky, tar-like glop formed by oil oxidation breakdown varnish products and suspended, unfiltered particulates. If sludging is allowed to proceed to the point it cuts off oil circulation to moving parts, the engine suffers the analogy of a "coronary" - sometimes dramatically sending a chunk of a broken crankshaft or connecting rod through the oil pan if oil supply to the main or rod bearings is interrupted.

toughnut · November 2005

wiper motor at dlr is $200 and labor is $100 to install. Could I, a rank amateur, try to install the motor?
I have never done this but i have done brakes and thermos etc. Has anyone had any experience with rebuilt (toyota) or after market wiper motors? :confuse:

toughnut · November 2005

have blue/white smoke coming from exhaust when I first start car. I had a 98 which didn't do this until 150k. Toyota did an engine job on the 98 but the 97 is not covered. Eventually if i am not careful my oil will disappear. The only reason I found out on the 98 was at oil change(3k) and i was down 2 qts. Can anything be done without spending $1500 on new valves? I hope the answer is not as depressing as i think it is going to be.

toughnut · November 2005

I did the disc brakes and put anti-seize paste on the caliper and torque plate bolts. Two weeks later 2 of the bolts loosened and one fell out. Is there a connection here? I remember that one of these bolts "froze" on a chevy citation and i ended up paying for a whole new assembly. When I do brakes I automatically have the rotors ground. thanks in advance.

kenm6 · November 2005

My 1999 XLE, V6, have the same problem. My mechanic have no idea what is it since we can not duplicate the same problem there.
Anyone have any idea? Thanks in advance.

scoti1 · November 2005

michele8,

haefr's reply and advice are right on.

One question, what were your symptoms before the engine died? Signs of sludge would include an indication of low oil on your gauge or low readings on your dip stick, smoke emitting from exhaust, check engine light, and sometimes you may be actually able to see black goo around the oil filler and cap.

michele8 · November 2005

Thank you. This is great information! My car is slightly over the 8 year extended warranty. I am the original owner, purchased the car in Feb 1997 with oil change every 3000 miles and follow diligently the rest of the maintenance schedule so I'm going to fight to get this covered anyways. Will see how it goes tomorrow.

cman18 · November 2005

Hey sry i don't have a diagram for u but i did replace my front speakers without one. They are harder to get to then that back that's for sure but u would need a i forget so just get both a 10 and 12mm socket, an extension, and a ratchet of course. The little black covers u see on both side of ur steering wheel that's up against the panel near the driver side door and next to the radio dash. You will need to pop them out with a flat head screw driver so that you can get to the bolts. There should be 1 bolt on each side of the steering wheel in back of the black covers. After that the whole panel where you see the speaker cover should come down if not remove the black panel that's attached to the panel it's located right above the pedals. For the passenger side I actually forgot but there r bolts for that one as well but i think u get to those through your glove box, so you may need a philips and still the 10 or 12mm socket with that. But let me know how it goes and if you can get to them if not i'll go back to the car and relook at how i did it. But your welcome for any help in advance.

210delray · November 2005

Just wondering, how do you know that the engine itself is the problem? What were the symptoms?

If the oil was changed every 3000 miles, I wouldn't expect a problem unless you had the dreaded sludge. OTOH, your low total miles suggests short-trip driving, which certainly isn't helpful in avoiding sludge formation.

98camryv6 · November 2005

dabatman:

I too have a 98 camry with 130K. The check engine light has been on for about 2.5 years. The car will run fine with it. It just will not pass the smog test. I also had to replace the O2 sensor (air fuel sensor). Didn't solve the problem. The code is P1130 probably. I have codes of P1130,1133, and 1135. I beat the smog test last year by having my mechanic reset the computer just before he did the smog test. Its illegal but my car "passed." The latest rule now is that the car must be driven and the computer must perform tests before passing the smog test. So once that computer performs test, it will fail. So now I don't know what to do. I don't want to spend more money on this.

chevymalibu · November 2005

is it under 36K and/or 3 years?? if so, I'd say yes. my 2004 accord had a trans oil leak and it was a seal. fixed it no charge.

joshali · November 2005

I don't know if this will work on yours, but because of a "check engline lite" problem of my own -- that I have spent money on three times but cannot seem to find the "cure" -- I have been floating around the internet and have seen ads for simulators that apparently can defeat some, but not all, of the check engine lite problems. One is "o2sensorsimulator.com"; if you look into this, let me know if it helps or not. I have thought about it but have not done it yet.

bildow · November 2005

I saw your problem, have you tried changing the catalytic converter I have found after 75-100,000 miles they get tired and need replacing. Another idea after replacing the converter is just before you have the smog test is to take your car on a
good 7-10 mile run at speeds of at least 65mph to clean out the inside of the engine, of any water or vapor or any build up of some carbon in the cylinders. You also get the converter hot cleaning out any old matter that might be there.
This information was given to me by the smog check people in California and I have passed it on to friends who did what they recommended and it seems to work in most cases.

bildow · November 2005

What it sounds like the problem is the valve guide seals that do wear with age and the normal thing is to what is called do a head over haul. replace the valves and seals and other components. Spending $1500.00 is cheaper than buying a new car dont waste money on these so called miracle products they don't work. You will consume about a quart of oil every 500 to 1000 miles you need to check you oil level weekly.

bildow · November 2005

I saw what you said to the other party due to the amount of work our transmissions have to do today it's recommended that the transmission fluid be changed at 25,000 or under heavy bumper to bumper every 15,000 to 20,000. The transmissions in the camry and other toyota's are expensive and with good care they can go up to 100,000 to 200,000 miles. If some people are back yard do your self's there is a drain plug on the transmission you can drain the pan from there and every 30,000 miles have a shop change the filter in side.

chevymalibu · November 2005

my 2004 accord owners manual says that when in defrost mode, the AC automatically comes on to clean the windshield. In my 2005 camry LE manual, it doesn't say that but when I put the knob to defrost, it seems that the air coming out is colder than the outside or car temp. I haven't actually had the hood open and watched the ac compressor kick in or not kick in when switched to defrost. does anyone know if the ac goes on??? thanks.

unclegeo · November 2005

I happened to see your post and wanted to tell you what happened to me. I bought a new 2003 Camry LE 4 cylinder in March of 03. The check engine light came on after about 4000 miles on it. I took it to the dealer who said it was associated with the speed sensor. They ordered a new speed sensor and installed it and cleared the code. A month later it came on again. Same code - speed sensor. They cleared the code and I kept driving. Finally the speedometer failed and light came on again. The dealer ended up replacing the transmission. There is a gear in the transmission that stripped related to this. Drove another 1000 miles or so and the light came on again, again speed sensor code. Went through same thing again. Speedometer quit again. Ended up with another transmission being replaced. Drove another 500 miles or so and it happened and light came on again. At this time the car had about 6000 miles on it. I ended up trading cars with the dealer for an 04 Camry.

I would be interested if you got the problem resolved.

haefr · November 2005

At the risk of suggesting the obvious, why don't you back the car out of the garage, set the brake, leave the engine idling, turn on the defroster and pop the hood for a looksee. I'll wager you'll see that the A/C compressor is engaged. It takes a LOT of bruteforce heat to clear a winshield of condensation when cold air is hitting it from the other side. By dehumidifying the air in addition to heating it, the interior glass surface is cleared much more rapidly. That said, I still appreciate having the choice with a simple button on whether to kick in the A/C compressor regardless which ventilation mode I'm using.

wwest · November 2005

Keep in mind, assuming the system is in "fresh" airflow mode as per instructions, that it is the OUTSIDE incoming air that you're attempting to dehumidify and that is totally impossible below ~35F, which is why the A/C compressor is disabled by most manufacturers when the OAT declines to or below freezing.

In order for the A/C to dehumidify the COLD 55F to 35F incoming airflow even a tiny smidgin it must CHILL that airflow down to its dewpoint, or very close thereby,
as it travels through the ~3 inches of evaporator core. Note that the LOWER the blower speed the more likely the airflow will be cooled to dewpoint allowing dehumidification to occur.

Also keep mind that the COLD wintertime outside atmosphere is typically already very dry, dehumidified. That's why you are more subject to shocks via static electricity discharge in the winter, no moisture in the air to bleed the charge away as it builds in voltage potential.

Now I am not, by any means, saying absolutely do not use the A/C to assist in defogging the interior surface of the windshield. In extremely humid, cool, not cold, conditions it can often be of some aid.

There is one caveat however. When you cycle the A/C off after using it, or it cycles off due to declining OAT, the previously condensed moisture will begin to evaporate into the incoming airstream. That, of itself, will oftentimes result in a sudden fogging over of the interior surface of the windshield, especially if you react to the initial slight fogging instinctively by again activating the defrost/defog/demist mode.

When you do that ALL of the HUMID airflow will be directed to the interior windshield surface and if you weren't blinded by windshield fogging before you sure will be now.

So, if the interior of your windshield begins to fog over, or is fogged over, turn the heat to max. In an automatic system the blower motor should follow, if not you will need to turn the blower to max also.

Now, there are several aspects of the Toyota and Lexus (supplied by NipponDenso, Denso US) automatic climate control that are very important to keep in mind. When you leave you nice warm garage early on a cold morning the heating system blower will not come on automatically until the engine water jacket has warmed to ~130F. Additionally the system will be routing, baffling, whatever cold outside airflow enters the cabin inadvertently due to forward motion by using the defrost/defog/demist mode to prevent you from being discomforted.

About 2 or 3 miles down the road the blower will start up and the system airflow routing will begin to move to footwell mode. Assuming the A/C was used the previous day the windshield will begin to quickly fog over and you will be forced to the side of the road until you are able to sort things out.

wwest · November 2005

First, a clarification.

If in using this mode your desire is to quickly remove frost, ice, or even condensation, from the EXTERIOR surface of the windshield then the use of the A/C is absolutely NEEDLESS. The only way to do that using the system is FULL heat and high blower.

So the previous post, 4290, and this one, pertains ONLY to defogging/demisting the interior surface of the windshield.

A few years ago I discovered that there were two C-best options available for my 2001 RX300 as an aid to more appropriate management of the A/C cooling system. One of the options allows the owner to indefinitely disable the A/C compressor's automatic operation. The second one will unlink the A/C compressor's automatic operation in defrost/defog/demist mode. Prior to having the dealer set these to my preference I always disconnected the compressor clutch wire during the winter months. I should mention that the Lexus dealer insisted that no such c-best option was available until I took a copy to him that had been posted here.

Of more recent vintage I noticed that the Toyota and Lexus automatic climate control has undergone a evolution. The system outlet airflow will automatically switch from cooling, dash outlets, to heating/defog, footwell and windshield airflow combined when the OAT declines to ~35F. As I said before, the A/C compressor is automatically disabled (at least since the 1992 LS became available) below about 35F OAT. If you attempt to activate it manually the light will come on but the compressor clutch will not engage.

Once the cabin atmospheric environment approaches or reaches the air temperature setpoint these systems will automatically switch into cooling mode. This can be extremely discomforting, cool and dry airflow toward the face and upper body at a time when the body's radiant heat input if minimal or non-existant.

I have no doubt that many of us have learned to avoid the discomfort by manually over-riding the system into heating, footwell mode.

For those of you that have not be aware that in cooling mode absolutely no system airflow is routing to the interior surface of the windshield.

Now in one of those newer models that automatically switch the system into combined footwell/defog/demist mode as the OAT declines below 35F, simultaneously with disabling the A/C compressor you can probably guess what will happen next. Maybe some of you have already experienced the likely result.

The A/C is disabled allowing the surface temperature of the evaporator to rise thereby releasing the condensate for evaporation into the system airflow, and at the same time a substantial portion of this now HUMID (growing in humidity by the second, tick, tick,...) is routed to the interior surface of the windshield. A windshield that very well might have been thoroughly CHILLED in the previous hour by the impingement of COLD onrushing airflow due to roadspeed.

You can avoid these potentially dangerous circumstances of your Toyota and Lexus automatic climate control systems by having the dealer set the c-best options as I did. Also become fairly careful, diligent, in manually switching the system to heating mode when the OAT is below ~45F, or even as high as 55F if your body is telling you that the surrounding (outside) landscape is COLD and thus there is no radiant body heating to "balance" the system.

alexch · November 2005

my 04 camry won't start today ,when I try to turn on the kay I can hear a song like da da da and won't start,when I repeat it again I found out speedometer light is gone ,somebody please help .

davidlucas · November 2005

My 05 Camry was totalled in an accident recently. I am quite happy with that vehicle, therefore, I bought off the last 05 Camry (new car with 94 miles) from Melody Toyota California after job yesterday right before Thanksgiving. The problem is, when I drove the car home and the surrounding is not as noisy as the dealer's lot, the engine sounds quite noisy and I can feel the shake when it's in idle status, while it's not the case at all with my last Camry where I can barely hear the engine sound and sometimes I can't tell if the engine is started or not, which impressed me very much. Frankly speaking, the quietness is the main thing that keeps me loyal to Camry. Now I'm disappointed and I am blaming myself that I didn't find this problem at the dealer's lot. I knew there is no cooling off period for car sale. But I still called the sales person the he suggested me to go to service. I am going to talk with their general sale manager tomorrow in seeking of an exchange. But there is still chance that they will just refuse it.

My question is: Is there anything I can do about the engine sound? How hard is it to make an engine as quiet as it should be? Can I claim this car a lemon?

Thanks for your advice.

bwong06 · November 2005

A few days ago, i had a flat and replaced it with the full sized spare that came with the car, a 2001 camry. However, when i drive the the steering wheel must be turned to the left in order for the car to go straight. Tire pressure is not a problem. Can anyone tell me what the problem is?

wwest · November 2005

Move both rear tires, equally worn, to the front, so your stearing and "driving" tires are of equal tread depth. Assumption being that the "new" spare is currently on the front.

haefr · November 2005

Does your new car have the same engine configuration as your previous car? If the new one has a 4 cyl engine and the previous car had a 6 cyl engine, it would be unrealistic to expect them to be equal in smoothness and operating noise at idle. If your new car is a lower trim line than the one it replaced, it may not have as much sound insulation either. Finally, check the motor oil level to verify it's not low. While the dealer would be rightfully expected to have topped it off prior to delivery, mistakes do happen, and new engines will often use more oil during break-in. (I'm not suggesting that the oil level is a likely issue, but you can never be too careful during break-in.) As to your expectation for an exchange, dealers will always negotiate a trade - that's how they stay in business. You merely have to agree to accept the 1st year's depreciation on the car you just purchased. Many states' "lemon law" provisions are tied to first filing for independent arbitration. The rulings for these cases are binding on the dealership and/or manufacturer, but not on the consumer - you'd still have the right to file a civil action and sue in court. Even if you win a "lemon law" appeal, you still have to accept a deduction against the original purchase price for mileage received from the car to the point at which it's finally turned in - basically a form of wear and tear, and marketability depreciation. Time to get out your warranty supplement booklet and read, READ, READ. (The answers are out there...)

user777 · November 2005

i presume, there is something they can do about the idle and shaking regardless of 4 or 6 cyl configuration. as for the other (source of the noise), maybe / maybe not. do check your engine oil level as haefr suggested. be polite, controlled, and speak confidently that they will do the right thing. good luck.

bhat11 · November 2005

I recently bought a used 2005 toyota camry LE. The mileage is less than 20k. When I started to pay attention to details, I started to hear a noise of like a type of shift or bump. Not loud or banging type, but very faint and you have to be really quiet to notice it. The sound comes up only when you start driving after you put the gear in drive each time you start the car. It does not happen when you stop in the road and continue driving, with the engine still running. At first I thought it was some loose item in the trunk, so I tightened the spare wheel,jackhammer and other items. Unfortunately the sound persisted on. I usually notice it when I reverse, and then drive foward. It doesn't happen while gear changing but right when you drive foward. Any ideas to what maybe the problem. Remember it only happens when you start the car each time and drive, not stopping and going at traffic lights etc. Thanks!

silverwhite · November 2005

I think you are correct. 2002 model started with cabin air filters (according to parts cashier at the dealer).

Question: I have an 03' camry and need some instructions to replace my cabin filter. where should i start looking?

bildow · November 2005

It's in the owners manual an it's not hard to change.

bildow · November 2005

I have also a 2005 camry and found the engine a little noisy if you have the four cylinder it does make a little noise. I notice it when I start away from a light or hit the passing gear on the open highway. I have the XLE and it is still noisy and I don't mind it. To compare I bought a Lexus LS 400 in 2000 and it is very quiet compared to the camry and if you have the six cylinder it should be fairly quiet compared the the four cylinder. Another question is the camry you bought this time have the same engine as the last one or did you go from a six to a four cylinder.

Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Toyota Camry: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions